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本文利用实验室波浪水槽观测规则长波对风浪的影响。谱分析显示,较之纯风浪谱,除已被广泛关注的长波抑制风浪这一现象外,当长波波陡较小,且频率远离风浪峰频时,长波还使得风浪谱向低频移动。本文利用Longuet-HigginsStewart(1960)理论,并考虑到风浪破碎的约束,计算了规则长波的存在对风浪谱的影响,发现可以较好地解释这一现象。这一工作表明,当长波波陡小且频率远离风浪峰频时,长波对短波的二阶调制及其引起的破碎加强可能是长波影响风浪的主要机制。 相似文献
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在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加. 相似文献
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实验室一般采用波浪聚焦方法生成深水破碎波,通过各组分波浪的波幅叠加生成一个波高显著增大的大波,使其波陡超过极限波陡发生破碎。利用该方法生成深水破碎波浪的破碎次数通常并不唯一,导致波浪破碎后的流场特征不明显;造波参数不易于选取导致研究工况的设置难度大,直接影响深水破碎精细化实验的效果和效率。本文采用聚焦波理论计算波面,并利用上跨零点法定义的波高和波长计算理论波陡,结合物理模型实验统计波浪沿程破碎次数与剧烈程度,研究以JONSWAP谱为造波输入谱型时,聚焦波幅、谱峰频率、频宽等造波输入参数对于波浪破碎情况的影响,从而建立深水波浪破碎次数与造波输入参数之间的近似定量关系,为实验造波参数的选取提供参考,提高实验效率。 相似文献
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利用南麂海洋站１９８１－１９９０年实测波浪资料，探讨了该海域风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄的统计分布特征。分析结果：当风浪平均波陡介于０．０２－０．０４时，其出现频率各季在８２％以上；当风浪平均波龄介于０．５－１．２时，其出现频率各季在７８％以上；当风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄介于０．０２－０．０４和０．５－１．０时，其出现频率为５３．５％－６９．６％。 相似文献
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论风浪的局域结构：II.风浪局域小波能谱的性质及应用 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
引入了局域小波能谱的局域间歇性度量,分析了不同风速下的风浪资料,结果表明,局域小波能谱可依局域频率分为三部分,风浪的群性在三维局域小波能谱团像下显示得更为明显,与风浪有关的一切性质都是局域的,包括风浪的群性,讨论了局域小波谱峰值与谱峰频率的涨落,指出了前者在工程设计中的重要意义,并发现了后者与风浪破碎有关的两种非线性现象。 相似文献
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利用风浪实验资料,系统地研究了列率谱随风速,风区的演变规律。与频率谱的计算结果比较表明：在主含能频段,特别在峰频附近,两种谱估计方法所得结果基本吻合。但在高频段,特别在二倍峰频附近,两种谱估计方法所得结果存在明显差异。文中就其存在的差异给出了可能的物理解释。 相似文献
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风浪超射现象的研究 Ⅰ.实验分析 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
对风浪超射现象进行实验研究,由于峰频率谱值不易精确定,因此通过谱分析不易获得精确的风浪超射曲线。在风浪槽中４个风区处观测随风时成长风浪,以子波变换分析风浪资料,结果表明,风浪高频组成波在成长中姓能量超射,与Ｓｕｔｈｅｒｌａｎｄ等结果相比,该能量超射幅度更大。 相似文献
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台风波浪数值预报的CHGS法 Ⅰ.成长过程中的海浪谱 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3
文章指出,由于台风风场中风速、风向随时间和空间急速地变化,越近台风中心风速越大、风区越短、风时越小,风浪就越是不可能充分成长。所以在台风浪数值计算工作中不能使用充分成长的海浪谱模式。作者等在最近提出的台风波浪数值预报方法(以CHGS表示)中,建立了一种成长海浪谱模式(如文中(2)式),该模式中包含了标志着风浪成长程度的参数——平均波龄β。当β值较小时,波浪的能量主要集中在谱的峰值频率附近,使谱峰高而陡,随着β的增大,谱形逐渐变得低矮坦缓,当β=1时波浪充分成长,成长谱转变成了充分成长的P-M谱。该模式还表现出了谱在“平衡域”内的“超射”现象。 相似文献
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斜向入射波与反射波的分离 总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7
提出了一种分离斜向入射波和反射波的方法,波浪可以是规则波、不规则波,波向可以任意.在一定的限制条件下,采用两点浪高仪的波浪信号就可将斜向入射波和反射波分离. 相似文献
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On the basis of data on the statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves reported in part I of this series, a self-consistent similarity regime is found to exist among properties of the individual waves, such as the nondimensional frequency, the wave number, the phase speed, and the steepness. Also, it is shown that forms of past empirical formulas for the development of the peak wave can be derived starting from the 3/2-power law, as an extension of the persent laboratory experimental data. In the derivation, only values of the coefficient of the 3/2-power law, and the fraction of momentum transferred from the wind retained by the wind waves, remain on an empirical basis. 相似文献
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The outcomes of our laboratory experiments corroborate hypotheses advanced earlier, dedicated to the mechanism of origination of abnormally high waves under the development of spectral instability. We have clarified the characteristics of spectral instability development including the dependences of the value of the downshift of the spectral maximum and distances at which it occurs on the steepness of waves and width of the initial spectrum. In addition, we have revealed the dependence of the number of abnormal waves on the fraction of spectral energy transferred to the low-frequency range and on the stage of spectral instability development. Our results offer the basis for creating a statistical model of the origination of abnormally high waves. 相似文献
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The interaction between a unidirectional deep-water short-wave train and an intermediate water-depth long wave is studied. The steady solutions are derived up to third order in wave steepness, respectively, using two different approaches: a conventional perturbation method employing linear phase functions to describe both long- and short-wave phases and a phase modulation method using a modulational phase function to model the short-wave phase. The two results are shown to be identical for a parametric range χ1 coth Kdχ3 ≤ 0.5, where χ3 is the short-to-long wavelength ratio, χ1 and K are, respectively, the long-wave steepness and wavenumber, and d the water depth. When χ1 coth Kd approaches χ3, the conventional solution converges slowly and eventually diverges for χ1 coth Kdχ1. The slow convergence of the conventional solution results from the approximation of a modulated short-wave phase by a linear phase formulation. In addition to the increasing modulation of the short-wave phase, amplitude and wavenumber as the water depth decreases, it is found that the modulation of the short-wave intrinsic frequency and potential amplitude along the long-wave surface become significant. Previous results about virtually non-modulated short-wave intrinsic frequency and potential amplitude are only limited to the case of unidirectional wave modulation in very deep water. 相似文献
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Hiroshi Takeda 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(6):410-415
Waves which propagate along a vertical wall lying in an arbitrary direction on aβ-plane are derived as a generalization of Haurwitz waves (Haurwitz, 1940) whose direction of propagation is restricted to
the east-west direction. The waves are classified into two types. One consists of neutral waves, which correspond to a generalization
of Haurwitz waves. The other consists of waves with complex wavenumber and without energy flux. The phase of the waves also
propagates in the direction normal to the coast in an envelope except for the case in which the coast lies in the east-west
direction. 相似文献
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This paper presents the results of an experimental investigation on three-dimensional local scour below a rigid pipeline subjected to wave only and combined wave and current conditions. The tests were conducted in a conventional wave flume. The major emphasis of the investigation was on the scour propagation speed (free span expansion rate) along the pipeline after local scour was initiated at a controlled location. The effects of flow ratio (steady current velocity vs. combined waves/current velocity), flow incidence angle and pipeline initial embedment depth on free span expansion rate were investigated. It was observed that the scour along the pipeline propagated at a constant rate under wave only conditions. The scour propagation rate decreased with increasing embedment depth, however, increased with the increasing Keuglegan–Carpenter (KC) number. Under combined wave and current conditions, the effect of velocity ratio on scour propagation velocity along the pipeline was quantified. Empirical relationships between the scour propagation rate (Vh) and key parameters such as the KC number and embedment depth (e/D) were established based on the testing results. 相似文献
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Free flexural-gravity waves unevenly compressed in an ice-covered basin have been studied using a linear formulation. The conditions were specified allowing determination of the bounds of the angular area of wave disturbances and of the oscillation frequency intervals due to compression. The paper considers the distribution of the wave characteristics over frequency depending on compressive stresses and the direction of wave propagation.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(2-3):265-275
Sand waves form a prominent regular pattern in the offshore seabeds of sandy shallow seas and pose a threat to a range of offshore activities. A two-dimensional vertical (2DV) flow and morphological simulation model describing the behaviour of these sand waves has been developed. The simulation model contains the 2DV shallow water equations, with a free water surface and a general bed load formula. The water movement is coupled to the sediment transport equation with a seabed evolution equation. The domain is non-periodic in both directions. The spatial discretisation is performed by a spectral method based on Chebyshev polynomials. A fully implicit method is chosen for the discretisation in time. Firstly, we validate the simulation model mathematically by reproducing the results obtained using a linear stability analysis for infinitely small sand waves. Hereby, we investigate a steady current situation induced by a wind stress applied at the sea surface. The bed forms we find have wavelengths in the order of hundreds of metres when the resistance at the seabed is relatively large. The results show that it is possible to model the initial evolution of sand waves with a numerical simulation model. This paper forms the necessary first step to investigate the intermediate term behaviour of sand waves. 相似文献