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1.
Semidiurnal tidal currents on the outer shelf of the Mackenzie Shelf in the Beaufort Sea were found to be strongly influenced by the locally generated baroclinic tide. Two primary factors are involved in this process: (1) the sharp shelf break along the northeastern Mackenzie Shelf, promoting the generation of vigorous internal tidal waves; and (2) the proximity to critical latitudes for M2 and N2 motions locking these waves and preventing them from leaving the source region. As a result, internal tides are resonantly trapped between the shelf and critical latitudes. The physical properties and temporal variations of tidal motions were examined using current meter measurements obtained from 1987–1988 at four sites (SS1, SS2, SS3, and SS4) offshore of the shelf break at depths of ∼200 m. Each mooring had Aanderaa RCM4s positioned at ∼35 m below the surface and ∼50 m above the bottom. Complex demodulation was used to compute the envelopes (amplitude modulation) of these components. A striking difference in the variability of clockwise (CW) and counterclockwise (CCW) tidal currents was found. The CW tides are highly variable, have greater amplitude, exhibit a burst-like character associated with wind events and contain about 80% of the total energy of the semidiurnal tidal currents. In contrast, the CCW components have a more regular temporal regime with distinct monthly, fortnightly and 10-day modulation at astronomical periodicities associated with frequency differences M2–N2 (0.03629 cpd), S2–M2 (0.06773 cpd), and S2–N2 (0.10402 cpd). Significant horizontal correlation of the CW current envelopes was found only between stations near the northeast Mackenzie Shelf, indicating this to be the main area of baroclinic internal wave generation.  相似文献   

2.
The Adriatic Sea general circulation model coupled to a third generation wave model SWAN and a sediment transport model was implemented in the Adriatic Sea to study the dynamics of the sediment transport and resuspension in the northern Adriatic Sea (NAS) during the Bora event in January 2001. The bottom boundary layer (BBL) was resolved by the coupled model with high vertical resolution, and the mechanism of the wave–current interaction in the BBL was also represented in the model. The study found that, during the Bora event of 13–17 January 2001, large waves with significant wave height 2 m and period of 5 s were generated by strong winds in the northwestern shelf of the Adriatic where the direction of wave propagation was orthogonal to the current. The combined motion of the wave and current in the BBL increased the bottom stress over the western Adriatic shelf, resulting in stronger sediment resuspension there. Combining stronger bottom resuspension and strong upward vertical flux of resuspended sediments due to turbulent mixing, the model predicted that sediment concentration near the Po River was much higher than that predicted by the model run without wave forcing. The study also shows that wave–current interaction in the BBL reduced the western Adriatic Coastal Currents (WACCs) in the shallower north. It is concluded that wave forcing significantly changed the sediment distributions and increased the total horizontal fluxes over the western shelf. These results signified wave effect on sediment flux and distribution in the NAS, and suggested that waves cannot be neglected in the study of dynamics of sediment transport and resuspension in the shallow coastal seas. By including the tidal forcing in the coupled model, we also examined the effect of tides on the sediment transport dynamics in the NAS.  相似文献   

3.
Using in situ, continuous, high frequency (8–16 Hz) measurements of velocity, suspended sediment concentration (SSC), and salinity, we investigate the factors affecting near-bed sediment flux during and after a meteorological event (cold front) on an intertidal flat in central San Francisco Bay. Hydrodynamic forcing occurs over many frequency bands including wind wave, ocean swell, seiching (500–1000 s), tidal, and infra-tidal frequencies, and varies greatly over the time scale of hours and days. Sediment fluxes occur primarily due to variations in flow and SSC at three different scales: residual (tidally averaged), tidal, and seiching. During the meteorological event, sediment fluxes are dominated by increases in tidally averaged SSC and flow. Runoff and wind-induced circulation contribute to an order of magnitude increase in tidally averaged offshore flow, while waves and seiching motions from wind forcing cause an order of magnitude increase in tidally averaged SSC. Sediment fluxes during calm periods are dominated by asymmetries in SSC over a tidal cycle. Freshwater forcing produces sharp salinity fronts which trap sediment and sweep by the sensors over short (∼30 min) time scales, and occur primarily during the flood. The resulting flood dominance in SSC is magnified or reversed by variations in wind forcing between the flood and ebb. Long-term records show that more than half of wind events (sustained speeds of greater than 5 m/s) occur for 3 h or less, suggesting that asymmetric wind forcing over a tidal cycle commonly occurs. Seiching associated with wind and its variation produces onshore sediment transport. Overall, the changing hydrodynamic and meteorological forcing influence sediment flux at both short (minutes) and long (days) time scales.  相似文献   

4.
Although large-scale tidal and inertial motions dominate the kinetic energy and vertical current shear in shelf seas and ocean, short-scale internal waves at higher frequencies close to the local buoyancy frequency are of some interest for studying internal wave breaking and associated diapycnal mixing. Such waves near the upper limit of the inertio-gravity wave band are thought to have relatively short O (102–103 m) horizontal scales and to show mainly up- and downward motions, which contrasts with generally low aspect ratio large-scale ocean currents. Here, short-term vertical current (w) observations using moored acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) are presented from a shelf sea, above a continental slope and from the open ocean. The observed w, with amplitudes between 0.015 and 0.05 m s−1, all span a considerable part of the water column, which is not a small vertical scale O(water depth) or O (100–500 m, the maximum range of observations), with either 0 or π phase change. This implies that they actually represent internal waves of low vertical modes 1 or 2. Maximum amplitudes are found in layers of largest stratification, some in the main pycnocline bordering the frictional bottom boundary layer, suggesting a tidal source. These ‘pycnocline-w’ compose a regular train of (solitary) internal waves and linearly decrease to small values near surface and bottom.  相似文献   

5.
Dye dispersion in the surf zone: Measurements and simple models   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
To examine the spatial and temporal effect of low-volume land-based runoff on beach contamination, discrete batches of dye were released at the shoreline at three beaches in Santa Monica Bay in 2000 (Malibu Creek, Santa Monica Canyon and Pico–Kenter drain). Dye concentration was measured at the shoreline 25, 50 and 100 m alongshore from the dye release point for up to 40 min after dye release. The shoreline concentration time series are characterized either by approximately exponential decay in concentration after passage of the dye patch maximum concentration or by persistent low concentration up to 30 min after passage of the initial dye patch front. In the absence of detailed measurements of physical conditions, several simple advection–diffusion models are used to simulate shoreline concentration time series for an idealized surf zone in order to probe the roles of alongshore current shear and rip currents in producing the observed characteristics in dye concentration time series. Favorable qualitative and quantitative comparison of measured and simulated time series suggest alongshore current shear and rip currents play key roles in generating the observed characteristics of nearshore dye patch dispersion. The models demonstrate the potential effects of these flow features on the extent and duration of beach contamination owing to a continuous contamination source.  相似文献   

6.
Five weeks of hourly, 10-min time-exposure video images were used to analyze the meso–macro-tidal double-barred Truc Vert Beach, SW France, under intense wave forcing. The four storms experienced, one of which with an offshore significant wave height over 8 m, induced dramatic changes in the double sandbar system. The subtidal outer bar migrated offshore rapidly (up to 30–50 m/day) and its pre-existing crescentic pattern was wiped out. The seaward-protruding parts of the outer bar barely migrated offshore during the most intense storm, whereas a landward-protruding part was shed off. Over the entire study period, the outer-bar dynamics was dominated by alongshore-averaged changes rather than alongshore non-uniform changes, while the opposite was observed for the inner bar. In addition, the outer-bar dynamics was predominantly controlled by the time-varying offshore wave conditions, whereas the inner-bar dynamics was influenced largely by the tide-range variations. Our observations put forward the key role of morphological settings (the presence of a subtidal bar and its shape) and tidal range in governing inner-bar behaviour within a double sandbar dynamics, and provide strong support for previous suggestions that sandbars cannot be studied in isolation.  相似文献   

7.
Tropical cyclones (termed hurricanes and typhoons in other regions), are extreme events associated with strong winds, torrential rain and storm surges (in coastal areas) and cause extensive damage as a result of strong winds and flooding (caused by either heavy rainfall or ocean storm surges) in the immediate area of impact. The eastern Indian Ocean, particularly in the northwest region of Australia, is impacted by up to 10 tropical cyclones during the cyclone season, although direct impact of cyclones along the west and southwest coastlines is rare. However, the sub-tidal frequency component of sea level records along the west and south coasts of Western Australia indicates lagged correspondence with the occurrence of tropical cyclones. It is demonstrated that the tropical cyclones generate a continental shelf wave which travels along the west and south coasts of Australia up to 3500 km with speeds of 450–500 km day−1 (5.2–5.8 ms−1) with maximum trough to crest wave height of 0.63 m, comparable with the mean daily tidal range in the region. The shelf wave is identified in the coastal sea level records, initially as a decrease in water level, 1–2 days after the passage of the cyclone and has a period of influence up to 10 days. Amplitude of the shelf wave was strongly affected by the path of the tropical cyclone, with cyclones travelling parallel to the west coast typically producing the most significant signal due to resonance and superposition with local forcing. Analysis of water levels from Port Hedland, Geraldton, Fremantle and Albany together with cyclone paths over a ten year period (1988–1998) indicated that the tropical cyclones paths may be classified into 6 different types based on the amplitude of the wave.  相似文献   

8.
This research (1) integrated a fluorescent dye injection and monitoring system for measuring the mixing of a fluorescent dye tracer (fluorescein) in permeable (sandy) sediments with a cabled ocean observatory, Kilo Nalu, Oahu, Hawaii, and (2) used this system to conduct remotely controlled in situ measurements of wave-enhanced porewater mixing in a physically well-characterized wave-dominated setting. Laboratory results indicated that the fiber-optic sensor is effective at measuring fluorescence-traced enhanced mixing in sandy sediments. Observed dye mixing, driven by paddle-generated surface waves in a laboratory wave channel was 2–3 orders of magnitude greater than molecular diffusion, and decreased with depth in the sediments. Similarly, field experiments used a remotely controlled submersible syringe pump for fluorescent tracer injection into sediment that was monitored with a fiber-optic sensor. These experiments were carried out at 10 m water depth, with mean wave heights of 0.3–1.5 m and periods of ∼15 s. At 15 cm sediment depth, transport rates of 0–5 cm h−1 were measured, with maximum dispersion coefficients 2–3 orders of magnitude faster than sedimentary molecular diffusion. Hydrodynamic measurements collected simultaneously via Kilo Nalu correlated with porewater transport, with significant wave height and diffusion having the strongest covariation.  相似文献   

9.
Observations are presented of currents, hydrography and turbulence in a jet-type tidally forced fjord in Svalbard. The fjord was ice covered at the time of the experiment in early spring 2004. Turbulence measurements were conducted by both moored instruments within the uppermost 5 m below the ice and a microstructure profiler covering 3–60 m at 75 m depth. Tidal choking at the mouth of the fjord induces a tidal jet advecting relatively warmer water past the measurement site and dominating the variability in hydrography. While there was no strong correlation with the observed hydrography or mixing and the phase of the semidiurnal tidal cycle, the mean structure in dissipation of turbulent kinetic energy, work done under the ice and the mixing in the water column correlated with the current when conditionally sampled for tidal jet events. Observed levels of dissipation of turbulent kinetic energy per unit mass, 1.1×10−7 W kg−1, and eddy diffusivity, 7.3×10−4 m2 s−1, were comparable to direct measurements at other coastal sites and shelves with rough topography and strong forcing. During spring tides, an average upward heat flux of 5 W m−2 in the under-ice boundary layer was observed. Instantaneous (1 h averaged) large heat flux events were correlated with periods of large inflow, hence elevated heat fluxes were associated with the tidal jet and its heat content. Vertical heat fluxes are derived from shear-probe measurements by employing a novel model for eddy diffusivity [Shih et al., 2005. Parameterization of turbulent fluxes and scales using homogeneous sheared stably stratified turbulence simulations. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 525, 193–214]. When compared to the direct heat flux measurements using the eddy correlation method at 5 m below the ice, the upper 4–6 m averaged heat flux estimates from the microstructure profiler agreed with the direct measurements to within 10%. During the experiment water column was stably, but weakly, stratified. Destabilizing buoyancy fluxes recorded close to the ice were absent at 5 m below the ice, and overall, turbulence production was dominated by shear. A scaling for dissipation employing production by both stress and buoyancy [Lombardo and Gregg, 1989. Similarity scaling of viscous and thermal dissipation in a convecting boundary layer. Journal of Geophysical Research 94, 6273–6284] was found to be appropriate for the under-ice boundary layer.  相似文献   

10.
Tagus intertidal microphytobenthos (MPB) assemblages were characterized over a wide range of sediment type and tidal height and the possible effects of these variables on MPB spatial distribution and photo-adaptation mechanisms were investigated. Two transects with six different sediment type and different tidal height sites were sampled once every two months from 2002 to 2004. Upper shore and sandy sites showed higher chlorophyll a (chl a) content, with sandy sediments showing a biomass peak in late winter–early spring, and muddy sites showing no obvious seasonal pattern. Stepwise multiple linear regressions showed that only SiO2, tidal height and sediment particle size <63 μm were significant variables (p<0.05), explaining 50% of MPB biomass spatial–temporal variability. However, when data were separated by transect, only tidal height remained significant at both transects. Sandier sediments exhibited higher zeaxanthin/chl a and lower fucoxanthin/chl a ratios characteristic of a mixed cyanobacteria/diatom assemblages, showing an alternate seasonality with cyanobacteria increasing in summer and diatoms dominating in spring. Diatom biofilms showed contrasting features depending on the sediment type. Epipsammic diatoms were small with an average length of around 10 μm, while epipelic diatoms showed a wider size range with size distribution peaks at 10–15 μm, 25–35 μm and >60 μm. Epipelic biofilms showed evidence of being low light-acclimated (high fucoxanthin/chl a) and of photo-regulating by vertical migration movements (presence of endogenous vertical rhythms and lower diatoxanthin/diadinoxanthin). Epipsammic biofilms showed higher diatoxanthin/diadinoxanthin ratios and no vertical migration rhythms. Thus, the two diatom biofilm types had distinct strategies to photo-regulate: epipelic diatoms using vertical migration to position themselves at the sediment depth of optimum light conditions, and epipsammic diatoms using the xanthophyll cycle to photo-regulate. Further studies comparing epipsammic and epipelic assemblages are necessary to better understand MPB photo-regulation mechanisms.  相似文献   

11.
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12.
The Aquitanian Coast (France) is a high-energy meso-macrotidal environment exhibiting a highly variable double sandbar system. The inner and the outer bar generally exhibit a bar and rip morphology and persistent crescentic patterns, respectively. In June 2007, an intense five-day field experiment was carried out at Biscarrosse Beach. A large array of sensors was deployed on a well-developed southward-oriented bar and rip morphology. Daily topographic surveys were carried out together with video imaging to investigate beach morphodynamic evolution. During the experiment, offshore significant wave height ranged from 0.5 to 3 m, with a persistent shore-normal angle. This paper identifies two types of behavior of an observed rip current: (1) for low-energy waves, the rip current is active only between low and mid tide with maximum mean rip current velocity reaching 0.8 m/s for an offshore significant wave height (Hs) lower than 1 m; (2) for high-energy waves (Hs≈ 2.5–3 m), the rip current was active over the whole tide cycle with the presence of persistent intense offshore-directed flows between mid and high tide. For both low and high-energy waves, very low-frequency pulsations (15–30 min) of the mean currents are observed on both feeder and rip channels.A persistent slow shoreward migration of the sandbar was observed during the experiment while no significant alongshore migration of the system was measured. Onshore migration during the high-energy waves can be explained by different sediment transport processes such as flow velocity skewness, wave asymmetry or bed ventilation. High-frequency local measurements of the bed evolution show the presence of significant (in the order of 10 cm) fluctuations (in the order of 1 h). These fluctuations, observed for both low- and high-energy waves, are thought to be ripples and megaripples, respectively and may play an important but still poorly understood role in the larger scale morphodynamics. The present dataset improves the knowledge of rip dynamics as well as the morphological response of strongly alongshore non-uniform meso-macrotidal beaches.  相似文献   

13.
Multibeam bathymetry acquired under the MAREANO programme from the continental shelf off Nordland and Troms, northern Norway, show bedforms that we have interpreted as rippled scour depressions. They occur in three areas offshore on bank slopes facing southeast, more than 15 km from land. They are generally found where the slope gradient is low, in water depths of 70–160 m. Individual depressions are up to 3 km long, 1 m deep and up to 300 m wide. They occur in areas where sediments evolve quickly from glacial deposits on the banks to post-glacial muddy sediments on the glacial troughs. Multibeam backscatter and underwater video data show that depression floors are covered by rippled, gravelly, shelly sand. Ripple crests are parallel or slightly oblique to the depression axis orientation. Sand without bedforms is observed between the depressions. TOPAS seismic lines show that the uppermost seismic unit consists of the sand between the depressions. The base of this unit may be the last transgressive/tidal/wave ravinement surface. Physical oceanographic modelling indicates that maximum current velocities are up to 0.6 m/s in the rippled scour depression areas. Stronger currents appear to inhibit the building of these features. Tidal currents play an important role as they trend parallel to the southeast banks slopes and are likely responsible of the gravelly ripples formation inside the depressions as well as the persistence of these depressions which are not covered by finer sediments. On Malangsgrunnen bank, some of the rippled scour depressions are in the extension of NW–SE furrows located on the bank. Simulated bottom currents indicate currents mainly perpendicular to these furrows, as for the rippled scour depressions on the bank slopes. Nevertheless, these features could also highlight currents coming from the northwest which reach the bank margin and continue down to the areas of the rippled scour depressions. These currents could be responsible for the formation of some of the bedforms, together with tidal currents.  相似文献   

14.
Currents in a small channel on a sandy tidal flat   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
Channels affect drainage and bed stresses on tidal flats. Here, near-bottom currents observed on a sandy tidal flat are compared with those observed 35 m away inside a shallow (≈0.3 m deep) channel. For water depths between 0.5 and 2.5 m (when both current meters are submerged), current speeds 0.13 m above the bed on the flat are about 30% greater than those observed 0.13 m above the bed in the channel, and are approximately equal to those observed 0.58 m above the channel bed (0.26 m above the flat elevation). Flow directions on the flat are similar to those in the channel. For flows directed across the channel axis, the ratio of speeds increases from about 1.3 to about 2.2 with increasing water depth. The corresponding ratio of the vertical velocity variances (a proxy for turbulence) decreases from about 1.5 to about 0.2, suggesting that the turbulence near the bed of the channel is greater than that near the bed of the flat for water depths greater than about 1.0 m. Drag coefficients estimated with the vertical velocity variance are approximately 70% larger in the channel than over the visually smoother flat, consistent with prior studies suggesting that channels may increase tidal-flat roughness. For flows directed along the channel axis (in the cross-flat direction), the ratio of speeds (1.2) is similar to the ratio predicted by a cross-flat momentum (along-channel) balance.  相似文献   

15.
Semi-diurnal and fortnightly surveys were carried out to quantify the effects of wind- and navigation-induced high-energy events on bed sediments above intertidal mudflats. The mudflats are located in the upper fluvial part (Oissel mudflat) and at the mouth (Vasière Nord mudflat) of the macrotidal Seine estuary. Instantaneous flow velocities and mudflat bed elevation were measured at a high frequency and high resolution with an acoustic doppler velocimeter (ADV) and an ALTUS altimeter, respectively. Suspended particulate matter concentrations were estimated by calibrating the ADV acoustic backscattered intensity with bed sediments collected at the study sites. Turbulent bed shear stress values were estimated by the turbulent kinetic energy method, using velocity variances filtered from the wave contribution. Wave shear stress and maximum wave–current shear stress values were calculated with the wave–current interaction (WCI) model, which is based on the bed roughness length, wave orbital velocities and the wave period (TS). In the fluvial part of the estuary, boat passages occurred unevenly during the surveys and were characterized by long waves (TS>50 s) induced by the drawdown effect and by short boat-waves (TS<10 s). Boat waves generated large bottom shear stress values of 0.5 N m−2 for 2–5 min periods and, in burst of several seconds, larger bottom shear stress values up to 1 N m−2. At the mouth of the estuary, west south-west wind events generated short waves (TS<10 s) of HS values ranging from 0.1 to 0.3 m. In shallow-water environment (water depth <1.5 m), these waves produced bottom shear stress values between 1 and 2 N m−2. Wave–current shear stress values are one order of magnitude larger than the current-induced shear stress and indicate that navigation and wind are the dominant hydrodynamic forcing parameters above the two mudflats. Bed elevation and SPM concentration time series showed that these high energy events induced erosion processes of up to several centimetres. Critical erosion shear stress (τce) values were determined from the SPM concentration and bed elevation measurements. Rough τce values were found above 0.2 N m−2 for the Oissel mudflat and about 1 N m−2 for the Vasière Nord mudflat.  相似文献   

16.
Beach profile data, collected twice per year at 19 stations over a 25 km length of coastline in Tremadoc Bay, have been analysed to quantify the inter-annual variability in beach levels over a 7 year period and the results compared against the output of a numerical model. Using hourly wind data as forcing, the morphological development of northern Tremadoc Bay was simulated by wave, tidal, longshore transport, total transport and bed level change models. The modelling methodology was efficient and innovative, allowing realistic simulations of long duration with a time step of 1 h, hence capturing the high frequency nature of wind events. The model was run for each of the 7 autumn/winter periods (generally November–April) and the modelled net change in beach levels compared with the data from all 19 stations. The model results had reasonable agreement with the beach profile surveys. However, the observed magnitude of bed level change in the bay lagged the model output by 1 year, indicating that sediment processes acting over a larger area are important in a relatively localised study of inter-annual variability.  相似文献   

17.
Tidal current and elevation data were collected from five oceanographic moorings during October 2004 in Torres Strait, northern Australia, to assess the effects of large bedforms (i.e., sand banks) on the drag coefficient (CD) used for estimating bed shear stress in complex shallow shelf environments. Ten minute averages of tidal current speed and elevation data were collected for 18 days at an on-bank site (<7 m water depth) and an off-bank site (<10 m). These data were compared to data collected simultaneously from two shelf locations (<11 m) occupied to measure regional tidal behaviour. Overall CD estimates at the on- and off-bank sites attained 7.0±0.1×10−3 and 6.6±0.1×10−3, respectively. On-bank CD estimates also differed between the predominant east–west tidal streams, with easterly directed flows experiencing CD=7.8±0.18×10−3 and westerly directed flows CD=6.4±0.12×10−3. Statistically significant differences between the off-bank and on-bank sites are attributed to the large form drag exerted by the sand banks on the regional tidal currents, and statistically significant differences between the westward and eastward flows is ascribed to bedform asymmetry. Form drag from the large bedforms in Torres Strait comprises up to 65% of the total drag coefficient. When constructing sediment transport models, different CD estimates must therefore be applied to shelf regions containing steep bedforms compared to regions that do not. Our results extend the limited inventory of seabed drag coefficients for shallow shelf environments, and can be used to improve existing regional seabed mobilisation models, which have direct application to environmental management in Torres Strait.  相似文献   

18.
There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in‐situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (Hs/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.2<Hs/ h<0.5) the nearshore circulation is characterized by a meandering alongshore current. As conditions became more dissipative (Hs/h>0.5), the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between the shoals before turning alongshore in the direction of wave advance outside the surf zone. The increase in wave dissipation is associated with an increase in very low frequency (VLF) variations in the current speed across the shoal and in the rip channel that caused the circulation to oscillate between an offshore and an alongshore flow. The unsteady nature of the nearshore circulation is responsible for 55% of all surf zone exits under these more dissipative conditions. In contrast, only 29% of the drifters released from the shoal exited the surf zone and bypassed the adjacent shoal with the alongshore‐meandering current. While the currents had a low velocity (maximum of ~0.4 m s‐1) and would not pose a significant hazard to the average swimmer, the results of this study suggest that the transverse bar and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low‐energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
Two very high-frequency radars (VHFR) operating on the Opal coast of eastern English Channel provided a nearly continuous 35-day long dataset of surface currents over a 500 km2 area at 0.6–1.8 km resolution. Argo drifter tracking and CTD soundings complemented the VHFR observations, which extended approximately 25 km offshore. The radar data resolve three basic modes of the surface velocity variation in the area, that are driven by tides, winds and freshwater fluxes associated with seasonal river discharge. The first mode, accounting for 90% of variability, is characterized by an along-shore flow pattern, whereas the second and third modes exhibit cross-shore, and eddy-like structures in the current velocity field. All the three modes show the dominant semi-diurnal variability and low-frequency modulation by the neap-spring tidal cycle. Although tidal forcing provides the major contribution to variability of local currents, baroclinicity plays an important role in shaping the 3D velocity field averaged over the tidal cycle and may strongly affect tracer dynamics on larger time scales. An empirical orthogonal function (EOF) decomposition and a spectral rotary analysis of the VHFR data reveal a discontinuity in the velocity field occurring approximately 10 km offshore which was caused by the reversal in the sign of rotation of the current vector. This feature of local circulation is responsible for surface current convergence on ebb, divergence on flood and strong oscillatory vertical motion. Spectral analysis of the observed currents and the results of the Agro drifter tracking indicate that the line of convergence approximately follows the 30-m isobath. The most pronounced feature of the radar-derived residual circulation is the along-coast intensification of surface currents with velocity magnitude of 0.25 m/s typical for the Regions of Freshwater Influence (ROFI). The analysis has provided a useful, exploratory examination of surface currents, suggesting that the circulation off the Opal coast is governed by ROFI dynamics on the hypertidal background.  相似文献   

20.
Guajará Bay, located at the right margin of the Pará River estuary (Amazon) is formed in the confluence of Guamá and Acará–Moju rivers. It has low-depth zones (∼5 m) and deep channels (∼25 m). The ebb channel is located in the west section, where there is intense erosion of the margin. The flood channels and intertidal mudflats, which stretch out from north to south along the shore of the city of Belém do Pará, are in the east section. There are sandy (northwest) and muddy sedimentary deposits (east–southeast). Some 70% of Guajará Bay's bottom is covered by mud. The depositation of such muddy sediments and the formation of a point bar in the south section (Guamá River mouth) happen due to a decrease in the intensity of tidal currents to the south and of fluvial currents to the north. However, the hydrodynamic regime is high, which is proved by the low clay amounts. The sand deposits in the northwest section indicate strong tidal currents. The vast area of the bottom that is covered by mud (∼90 km2) and the intertidal mudflats (∼150 m wide) in Guajará Bay hint the extent of the contribution and sediments flow from Guamá and Acará–Moju rivers (drainage basin total area of ∼87,400 km2) to the Pará River estuary. The regular rainfall regime, typical of the Amazon region, keeps the considerable discharges of such rivers and their high turbidity (Secchi depth ?0.5 m) in the investigation area. Generally speaking, the low topography, the great fluvial subsidy and the action of tidal currents are the main controlling elements of the depositation and dispersion of sediments in Guajará Bay.  相似文献   

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