共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 15 毫秒
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The joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves is usually approximated by the joint distribution of apparent wave heights and periods. However there is difference between them. This difference is addressed and the theoretical joint distributions of apparent wave heights and periods due to Longuet-Higgins and Sun are modified to give more reasonable representations of the joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves. The modification has overcome an inherent drawback of these joint PDFs that the mean wave period is infinite. A comparison is made between the modified formulae and the field data of Goda, which shows that the new formulae consist with the measurement better than their original counterparts. 相似文献
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基于数值模拟的三维随机海面,从时间域和空间域两个角度对海浪的外观特征和内部结构间的关系进行了研究,得出了一些在工程应用上有参考价值的结果.文章认为,将波面看作是若干随机正弦波叠加的海浪结构模型,用于描述平稳、均匀和窄谱的海况时,其频谱分析结果与外观统计结果基本上是一致的;但是,当海面处于谱宽度较大的风浪或混合浪状态时,一些频谱分析结果必须经过修正才能应用.同一海况下,海面波动的时间过程和沿主波向的空间分布是明显不同的.当海面有突发性大浪时,外频谱能够很好地反映不平稳海况,而频谱则把这种不平稳性平滑了.文章着重讨论了波长和波陡的计算、频谱和外频谱的差异. 相似文献
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Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope. 相似文献
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用60个波高仪组成2m×2m的方阵,同步测量波面过程,用Doppler声学流速仪获得了二维正向和斜向规则波、二维正向和斜向随机波以及三维随机波浪场中不同水深处的同步Euler水质点速度各方向分量的高精度的时间过程资料.以此为出发点,讨论了分段式造波机生成波浪的周期分布特征,发现三维随机波浪周期分布的μ值与二维随机波浪比较有明显增大的趋势.分别从速度合矢量方向与波向的吻合程度(对二维波浪)、"多点波面"组合与"波面-水质点速度"组合两种方式得到方向谱的吻合程度(对三维随机波浪)等不同角度,论证了分段式造波机产生的波浪的内外部结构的一致性. 相似文献
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利用实验室风浪槽内测得的波面序列资料估计风浪外频谱。通过与实测风浪内频谱的比较,研究实测风浪外频谱的谱形特征,探讨海浪外频谱与内频谱的相似性问题。此外,还检验一种理论海浪外频谱。 相似文献
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Outer frequency spectrum of sea waves and its equilibrium range 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
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Analysis of freak wave measurements in the Sea of Japan 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
This paper presents an analysis of a set of available freak wave measurements gathered from several periods of continuous wave recordings made in the Sea of Japan during 1986–1990 by the Ship Research Institute of Japan. The analysis provides an ideal opportunity to catch a glimpse of the statistics of freak waves in the ocean. The results show that a well-defined freak wave may occur in the developed wind–wave condition: S(f)∝f−4, with single-peak directional spectra. The crest and trough amplitude distributions of the observed sea waves including freak waves are different from the Rayleigh distribution, although the wave height distribution tends to agree with the Rayleigh distribution. Freak waves can be readily identified from the wavelet spectrum where a strong energy density occurs in the spectrum, and is instantly surged and seemingly carried over to the high-frequency components at the instant the freak wave occurs. 相似文献
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低频长波对港湾共振、泥沙输运、波浪爬高与越浪等过程有重要影响。采用非静压模型SWASH模拟了不规则波在浅滩上的传播及破碎过程,重点探讨了滩顶短波破碎程度对低频波能演变的影响。模拟结果显示,当滩顶短波处于临界破碎状态时,低频波能流沿浅滩持续增长,浅滩对低频长波的放大效应（滩后与滩前低频波能流之比）显著;当滩顶短波轻微破碎、破波仅发生在外破波区时,低频波能流的沿滩增长率进一步变大;当滩顶短波剧烈破碎、破波延续到内破波区时,低频波能流沿滩先增长而后转为衰减,滩后放大率较临界破碎时明显减小。研究结果表明,浅滩顶部水深改变了短波破碎程度,进而影响低频长波的演化过程,浅滩上长波总体增长率随滩顶水深的减小呈现先增大后减小的规律,在短波轻微破碎时最大。 相似文献
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A new mathematical integral representation including five integrals about the far field wave shape function of Havelock form translating-pulsating source is obtained by performing variable substitution. Constant-phase curves and propagation wave patterns are investigated by applying stationary phase analysis method to the new representation. Some findings are summarized as follows: (1) when 0< <0.25 (where is the Strouhal number), three types of stationary phase curves corresponding to three propagation wave patterns such as fan wave pattern, inner V and outer V wave patterns, are found in the integral representation. (2) When >0.25, besides three types of wave patterns such as a ring-faning wave pattern, a fan wave pattern and an inner V wave pattern, a new one called parallel wave pattern is also found which not only exists in the integrals about the ring-fan wave and fan wave, but also in the integrals whose interval is 0, . In addition, Characteristics about these parallel waves such as mathematical expressions, existence conditions, propagation directions and wave lengths are obtained, and cancellation relationships between these parallel waves are stated, which certificates the fact that there are no parallel waves existing in the far field. 相似文献
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WANG Wei QIAN Chengchun
Professor Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China
Associate Professor Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China 《中国海洋工程》1999,(3)
Based on observed wind waves,the relationships between wave spectrum products and wavecharacteristics are established successfully,and the apparent energy distribution of sea waves is expressed as afunction of wave characteristics. 相似文献
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应用透空壁内流体速度与壁两侧的压力差成正比的线性模型,研究了斜向波与无限多个开孔沉箱的相互作用.依照结构物的几何形状,把整个流域分成无限多个子域,在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法对速度势进行展开.对于沉箱内的波浪运动,引入相位差概念;在构造反射波模型时,考虑了结构物的几何形状影响.列举出物理模型实验结果与数值实验结果的比较,可以看出两者吻合较好.进一步的数值计算验证表明,当孔隙系数无限大时,开孔墙前后的速度非常接近.在低频入射波作用下,垂直于沉箱的水平力随角度的变大而减小,平行于沉箱排列方向的力则变大. 相似文献
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The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory. 相似文献
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A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions. 相似文献
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Generally, the sea-state (random waves) is best described by a wave spectrum. A number of statistical models for wave spectra has been well established and a sea-state can be specified. Once the specified sea-state is established, the corresponding model for wave forces acting on a single cylinder or a group of cylinders can be formulated. Since peak force is of more practical value, a multivariate or joint probability density function for wave forces has been developed for the peak force distribution of wave forces. This theoretical force model derives the tri-variate probability density function P(F, F′, F″), where F is the peak force defined by Morison equation. This model is of wide-band in nature and is tested by wave flume experiments. 相似文献
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M. A. Srokosz 《Ocean Engineering》1988,15(4)
In this note the effect of changes in sea-state, as measured by the significant wave heigh Hs, on the joint distribution of individual wave height and period are considered. Wave data, obtained from a Waverider buoy during the growth phase of a storm, are used in the analysis. It is found that, by correctly scaling the individual heights and periods, the form of the joint distribution does not depend on Hs, but is dependent on the bandwidth of the spectrum. The results obtained also give some indication of the period of individual, high zero-upcrossing waves. 相似文献