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1.
An acoustic current meter attached to a servo-hydraulic surface-following device was used to obtain near-surface velocity measurements beneath breaking and near breaking surface gravity waves shoaling on a 1:40 beach. The data are compared to velocities predicted by two adaptations of linear theory: superposition and stretching. For unbroken and near breaking waves, the predictions are in close agreement with the measurements. For breaking and broken waves, near surface crest velocity measurements are influenced by air entrainment; trough velocities are relatively well predicted. The problems associated with the acoustic measurement of near-surface velocities are highlighted. 相似文献
2.
Microwave measurements have been made with a coherent radar in a wind-wave tank to determine the effect of induced current on backscatter. Perturbations were introduced into the wave structure by inducing a current in the water that flowed either with or against the wind. The effect of current on radar cross section was slight; the effect on the Doppler was much more pronounced. It was found that the wave components responsible for radar backscatter are predominantly free waves (that is, waves which travel at the dispersion velocity) rather than waves which are parasitic (or locked) to the dominant waves. 相似文献
3.
Radio signals of decameter wavelength resonantly scattered from waves on the sea surface are used to measure precisely the wavelength, frequency, and direction of travel of those waves. These measurements are not only important in themselves, but are also used to deduce currents, winds, and perhaps wind stress at the sea surface. Techniques for obtaining these measurements, as well as experiments to evaluate these techniques are discussed. Finally, scatter has been used to produce the first high-resolution measurements of the directional distribution of large ocean waves, measurements of ocean surface currents at ranges of 20 km, and of surface winds at ranges of 3000 km. 相似文献
4.
New hyperbolic mild slope equations for random waves are developed with the inclusion of amplitude dispersion. The frequency perturbation around the peak frequency of random waves is adopted to extend the equations for regular waves to random waves. The nonlinear effect of amplitude dispersion is incorporated approximately into the model by only considering the nonlinear effect on the carrier waves of random waves, which is done by introducing a representative wave amplitude for the carrier waves. The computation time is greatly saved by the introduction of the representative wave amplitude. The extension of the present model to breaking waves is also considered in order to apply the new equations to surf zone. The model is validated for random waves propagate over a shoal and in surf zone against measurements. 相似文献
5.
The in-line response of a vertical flexibly mounted cylinder in regular and random waves is reported.Both theoretical analyses and experimental measurements have been performed.The theoretical predictions are based on the Morison equation which is solved by the incremental harmonic balance method.Experiments are then performed in a wave flume to determine the accuracy of the Morison equation in predicting the in-line response of the cylinder in regular and random waves.The interaction between waves and vibrating cylinders are investigated. 相似文献
6.
Monocolumn behavior in waves: Experimental analysis 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
S.H. Sphaier F.G.S. Torres I.Q. Masetti A.P. Costa C. Levi 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(11-12):1724-1733
A series of tests with a model of a monocolumn platform with a moonpool were performed at the LabOceano/COPPE, at the Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, with the objective of determining the entrance area at the bottom of the moonpool that minimizes vertical motion in waves. The tests include measurements of monocolumn surge, pitch and heave motion, vertical motion of the water column inside the moonpool, with different mooring systems, in regular, irregular and transient waves.This paper presents experimental results of the monocolumn vertical motion and the internal water column motion in the moonpool in transient waves and results of vertical motion of the water column inside the moonpool with the model held still in transient waves. These measurements allow an analysis of the impact of the moonpool's bottom opening on the monocolumn vertical motion in waves.The theoretical analysis of a mass–spring–damper system with two degrees of freedom, similar to the studied system, has shown some analogy with den Hartog's damped vibration absorber; however, there are significant differences in terms of added mass and coupled terms of added mass and damping coefficients dependent on oscillation frequencies. 相似文献
7.
A. S. Zapevalov 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2009,45(2):253-261
The effect of sea surface waves longer than Bragg components on the backscattering of centimeter electromagnetic radiation is studied on the basis of data on direct field measurements of sea-surface slopes. A situation in which waves with wavelengths greater than 10 cm are longer than the Bragg components is considered. The increase in the backscattering cross section that is due to the presence of long waves is numerically estimated for sounding at horizontal and vertical polarization. Nonlinear effects in the field of surface waves result in the departure of the distribution of sea-surface slopes from a Gaussian distribution and lead to a change in the backscattering cross section. At a sounding angle of 35°, this change may reach 15% with respect to the cross section calculated for a Gaussian surface. 相似文献
8.
A nearly continuous zone of sediment waves is present on the lower continental rise off western Morocco which parallels the regional bathymetric trends. The individual sediment waves within the zone migrate upslope with time and, in general, also trend parallel to the regional bathymetric contours. These observations suggest that geostrophic contour currents are responsible for the formation of sediment waves. Physical oceanographic measurements and sea-floor photographs indicate only a very weak bottom circulation in this region. This suggests either that strong bottom currents are not essential for the formation of sediment waves or that relatively stronger bottom currents flowed along the continental margin of Morocco in the recent past. Turbidity flows may also influence the distribution of these sediment waves. 相似文献
9.
Traditional wave steepness s=H/L does not define steep asymmetric waves in a random sea uniquey. Three additional parameters characterising single zero-downcross waves in a time series are crest front steepness, vertical asymmetry factor and horizontal asymmetry factor. Results for steepness and asymmetry from zero-downcross analysis of wave data obtained from full scale measurements in deep water on the Norwegian continental shelf in 58 time series are presented. The analysis demonstrates clearly the asymmetry of both “extreme waves” and the highest waves. The period and height of the highest waves are also given together with their correlation to spectral parameters. The measured maximum wave heights are also compared with predicted values of maximum wave heights showing good agreement. 相似文献
10.
Measurements of temperature and salinity in the frequency range of short-period internal waves are considered. The measurements were carried out in the Van Mijen Fjord in Spitsbergen. The dominating periods of short-period internal waves are equal to a few minutes. They correspond to an internal wave with a dimensionless wavenumber 1/2. The generation of short-period internal waves is determined by external forcing from wind and tide. In winter, when the surface of the fjord is covered with ice, the wind stress is not transferred to the internal oscillations and the spectral level of internal waves decreases. 相似文献
11.
Resonance Induced by Edge Waves in Hua-Lien Harbor 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This article first reviews previous numerical studies on the resonance problem of Hua-Lien Harbor. All the research leads to the conclusion that resonance can be stimulated by 2-D infragravity waves. However, a literature survey suggests that outside the harbor these plane infragravity waves are too small to excite violent water-body movement inside. On the other hand, 3-D infragravity waves trapped along the coastline, also known as edge waves, are more likely to exist outside the harbor and their effect needs to be thoroughly discussed. Based on previous measurements, the response of Hua-Lien Harbor is best simulated using edge waves of 160 and 140 second periods and their resonance mechanisms are analyzed. The former case has a longitudinal resonant mode and hence the amplitude in the inner harbor is large. The latter case has a transverse mode in the outer basin and hence only berths in the outer basin are influenced. These features are both consistent with field measurement. Therefore, it is very likely that edge waves are responsible for the resonance of Hua-Lien Harbor. Finally, based on observation after the construction of the present offshore breakwaters, a theory is proposed to explain the trapping of incident edge waves, and a measure to further reduce the resonance is discussed. 相似文献
12.
LI Yucheng 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(3):261-278
—Based on theoretical analysis.numerical calculation.and experimental study,this paper dis-cusses breaker indices of irregular waves.transformation of wave spectrum.characteristics and computa-tion of breaking waves.as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break.Computed re-sults are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements. 相似文献
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14.
The small-scale roughness of the sea surface acts as an important link in air-sea interaction processes. Radar and sonar waves are scattered by short surface waves providing the basis for remote sensing methods of the sea surface. At high wind speeds, breaking waves occur. Bubbles penetrate into the water and drastically increase acoustical reverberation, transmission loss and ambient noise. Thus, the development of short waves and wave breaking have to be known to apply radar remote sensing to the surface and to deduce from radar backscatter which sonar conditions prevail. To measure the wind dependence of short waves an experimental device was constructed for use from stationary platforms. It is nearly all-weather capable and can easily be handled by a crane. On the other hand, frequencies of short waves measured in a fixed position are extremely frequency shifted by currents. This limits the usefulness of tower-based measurements, e.g., the short wave modulation by wind and waves or currents can only be estimated in a rough approximation. Consequently, a buoy was developed to reduce the frequency shifts. The principle of the buoy is to drift in the local surface current and to follow the amplitudes of long waves. Therefore, short waves are measured in facets of long waves and the Doppler shifts are minimized. The wind is measured at a constant height above the long wave profile and relative to the moving facets. The paper describes the conventional measuring device and points out the necessity of the drifting buoy system. Examples of wind and wave spectra are presented and short wave modulations by long waves are depicted, too. From these measurements, new insights in short wave behaviour have to be expected 相似文献
15.
Shear stresses on a rough seabed under irregular waves plus current are calculated. Parameterized models valid for regular waves plus current have been used in Monte Carlo simulations, assuming the wave amplitudes to be Rayleigh-distributed. Numerical estimates of the probability distribution functions are presented. For waves only, the shear stress maxima follow a Weibull distribution, while for waves plus current, both the maximum and time-averaged shear stresses are well represented by a three-parameter Weibull distribution. The behaviour of the maximum shear stresses under a wide range of wave-current conditions has been investigated, and it appears that under certain conditions, the current has a significant influence on the maximum shear stresses. Results of comparison between predictions and measurements of the maximum bottom shear stresses from laboratory and field experiments are presented. 相似文献
16.
The measurements by using ADCP (500 KH) and CTD were made during August 2000 in the south (37°55''N, 120°25''E) of the Bohai Sea, where the water depth was about 16.5m. The data of horizontal velocity with sampling interval of 2 min in 7 layers were obtained. The power spec-trum analysis of these data indicates that there are very energetic infragrvity waves with a period of about 6 min. The coherence spetrum analysis and the analysis of temporal variation of shear show that these infragravity waves are mainly the free wave model (properties of edge waves), in the meantimethey possess some characteristics of internal waves, which are likely due to the distinctive marine environment in this area. It is speculated on that the instability processes (chiefly shear instability) of sheared stratified tidal flow owing to the effect of sea-floor slope in the coastal area might be the main mechanism generating these infragravity waves. 相似文献
17.
D. V. Ivonin V. A. Telegin P. V. Chernyshov S. A. Myslenkov S. B. Kuklev 《Oceanology》2016,56(4):591-600
We present the results of development and testing of a coastal X-band radar system for monitoring wind waves and currents at the Black Sea (near Gelendzhik) created on the basis of nautical radars. Radar measurements of wave heights were validated by data from a wave buoy and a moored acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP). The conditions for successful radar measurements of waves in the coastal environment have been determined. It was shown that a radar with an aperture 1° could successfully measure wave heights at a distance of 1.2 km from the radar, when waves arrive at an angle of ±31° to the main sensing direction. In this case, for wave height measurements, the correlation coefficient between the radar and independent data is 0.82 and the standard deviation is 0.26 m. 相似文献
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19.
《Oceanic Engineering, IEEE Journal of》1981,6(2):63-69
Aerial photography can be an important source of information regarding surface waves and oceanic features that affect the propagation of these waves. This correspondence briefly reviews the parameters involved in aerial photography of coherent trains of surface waves, including the effects of water reflectance, waves, and sun and cloud conditions, on wave imaging in aerial photos. It also describes an analytical model of the specular reflection of sunlight by surface waves, together with experimental results from an outdoor wave facility. Analytical expressions are derived for the accuracy of wavelength measurements using aerial photos of waves in the glitter pattern. Further, it treats wave slope determination from aerial photos of idealized waves and presents experimental results from an outdoor wave facility. The application of remote synoptic surface flow determination by imaging of surface waves is briefly discussed. 相似文献
20.
Regeneration of sand waves after dredging 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Sand waves are large bed waves on the seabed, being a few metres high and lying hundreds of metres apart. In some cases, these sand waves occur in navigation channels. If these sand waves reduce the water depth to an unacceptable level and hinder navigation, they need to be dredged. It has been observed in the Bisanseto Channel in Japan that the sand waves tend to regain their shape after dredging. In this paper, we address modelling of this regeneration of sand waves, aiming to predict this process. For this purpose, we combine a very simple, yet effective, amplitude-evolution model based on the Landau equation, with measurements in the Bisanseto Channel. The model parameters are tuned to the measured data using a genetic algorithm, a stochastic optimization routine. The results are good. The tuned model accurately reproduces the measured growth of the sand waves. The differences between the measured weave heights and the model results are smaller than the measurement noise. Furthermore, the resulting parameters are surprisingly consistent, given the large variations in the sediment characteristics, the water depth and the flow field. This approach was tested on its predictive capacity using a synthetic test case. The model was tuned based on constructed predredging data and the amplitude evolution as measured for over 2 years. After tuning, the predictions were accurate for about 10 years. Thus, it is shown that the approach could be a useful tool in the optimization of dredging strategies in case of dredging of sand waves. 相似文献