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1.
Computation of Diffraction of Irregular Waves Behind Single Jetty   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
- This paper presents a calculation method for the diffraction of both regular waves and irregular waves of the single directional frequency spectrum behind a single jetty with a theoretical analysis, which has been confirmed through the model experiments, derives a method of computing the diffracted irregular waves behind the single jetty with the theoretical analysis on the basis of computation of the field data and gives the formulas and the figures of the computation of wave diffractions behind the vertical wall or mound single jetties.  相似文献   

2.
不规则波作用下的船舶撞击作用   总被引:2,自引:1,他引:2  
李玉成 《海洋学报》1980,2(3):123-136
随着波谱理论研究的发展,各种海工结构及船舶的荷载及其内力分析也日趋应用不规则波的计算方法。目前对于外海码头在波浪作用下的船舶撞击荷载还应用规则波的研究方法,对其应用不规则波分析方法的途径以及在考虑波谱作用后会有怎样的结果等问题目前还较少研究。本文试图对此问题进行初步的分析。  相似文献   

3.
波浪反射系数谱的特征分析   总被引:3,自引:1,他引:2  
应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.  相似文献   

4.
1 .IntroductionWavereflectionfromstructuresisanimportantfactorforthedesignofthestructures .Therehavebeenmanyresearchesonwavereflectionwithregularwavesandmonochromaticirregularwaves .Miche( 1 951 )proposedanon dimensionalMichenumberMfornormallyincidentirregularwavesconsideringwavebreakingbecauseofthedeepeningofwavesteepnessontheslopeofbreakwaters .ThereflectioncoefficientisproportionaltoM ,i.e .,Kr ∝M =4g( 2π) 5/ 2tan5/ 2 α(Hsf2p) ( 1 )wheregisthegravitationalacceleration ,Hsthesignifican…  相似文献   

5.
The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching.  相似文献   

6.
针对不规则波浪作用下Wigley型船的运动响应问题进行了系统的研究,采用统计学方法深入探讨了船舶不规则运动幅值和响应周期的分布规律,并通过傅里叶变换对船舶运动响应进行了频谱特征分析。结果表明,船舶横摇方向与升沉和纵摇方向随机运动的响应特征有显著差异。在升沉与纵摇方向,波浪谱峰频率远离自振频率,前十分之一大振幅运动对应周期离散性较小,基本稳定在波浪谱峰周期附近,但小振幅运动周期分布离散性较大,频谱分析指出船舶升沉与纵摇运动响应频谱在波浪谱峰频率附近出现明显峰值。而在横摇方向,波浪谱峰频率与自振频率相耦合,不同振幅的横摇运动响应周期均稳定在自振周期附近,且周期离散性较小,频谱分析也表明横摇运动响应频谱主要集中于船舶运动自振频率附近。  相似文献   

7.
An experimental scheme for the generation of directional focusing waves in a wave basin is established in this paper. The effects of the directional range, frequency width and center frequency on the wave focusing are studied. The distrihution of maximum amplitude and the evolution of time series and spectra during wave packet propagation and the variation of water surface parameters are extensively investigated. The results reveal that the characteristics of focusing waves are significantly influenced hy wave directionality and that that breaking criteria for directional waves are distinctly different from those for unidirectional waves.  相似文献   

8.
The observation and estimation of directional spectra of sea waves is one of the essential subjects of study of oceanic dynamics. On the basis of the irregular linear wave theory, estimation methods for i/UV, PUV and VV directional wave spectra are derived. By using ij and PUV data measured in-situ, directional wave spectra are estimated, meanwhile the virtues and defects of various spectra are comparied. This method provide a basis for the observations of sea waves.  相似文献   

9.
Based on the refraction-diffraction theory of irregular waves in the waters of slowly-varying cur-rents and depths,and the generation dissipation theory of wind wave,a model for nonlinear irregular wavesin coastal area is developed.In light of the specific conditions of coastal wave character and engineering ap-plication,a practical mathematical model for the nonlinear irregular waves is presented.with directional spec-trum in coastal area.Coast effect,refraction,whitecapping.bottom friction.current,wind and nonlinearaction are considered in this model.The numerical methods and schemes for wave refraction ray,energy con-servation of propagation,energy balance of the generation and dissipation of wind waves have been studied.Finally,the model is used for the directional wave spectrum computation in the Daya Bay.Compared withthe measured data with 956 wave bouys in the Daya Bay,the model results are in good agreement with themeasured results.  相似文献   

10.
Observations and Estimations of Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:1  
The directional spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. The observations of directional spectrum of sea waves were successfully conducted at platform Bohai 8 during 1991 and 1992 using a wave gage array for the first time in China. Based on the field data, the directional spectrum which depends on the wave growth is given in this paper. Before observations, the effects of the type of gage array, the distance between the gages and the platform itself on the measured results and the precision of some methods for estimating the directional spectrum were investigated and compared with the methods of numerical simulations and model tests of multi-direcitonal irregular waves. This ensures the quality of the observations and estimations of the directional spectrum.  相似文献   

11.
FAN Ju 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(1):103-112
—In this paper,the second-order perturbation method in frequency domain is used to calculateRAO and spectra of motion and mooring line tension of a turret-moored tanker in ballast condition.Thecalculated results are compared with corresponding experiment results.In the experiment the wave head-ing is 180°,and the wave spectra is the P-M spectrum and white noise spectrum.In the theoretical calcu-lations,the damping coefficient of slow oscillation of the tanker is determined on the basis of the dampingobtained from a test of irregular waves where the mooring system is replaced by a nonlinear spring withnonlinear stiffness similar to that of the mooring system.From the comparison between theoretical calcula-tions and experimental results,it can be found that the theoretical results obtained by the second-orderperturbation method in frequency domain are in good agreement with the experimental results,indicatingthat the damping coefficient of slow oscillation of the tanker required in frequency domain calcu  相似文献   

12.
Some researches have been made in this aspect.In the method by Walton Jr.(1992),incidentwaves are supposed to be the overlapping result of M component waves with different frequencies whichmay take different directions,the direction of incident waves should be available in advance,but in fact thedirection of incident waves is not available.In our study,incident waves are supposed to be composed ofM overlapping component waves with different frequencies,and different frequencies have different direc-tions.Based on the irregular wave reflection theory,the calculation formulas of wave direction,complexamplitude of incident waves,and complex amplitude of reflected waves in surface which are composed ofcomponent waves are derived by means of discrete Fourier transform.Then,the frequency spectra of inci-dent waves and reflected waves and the reflection coefficient of waves with corresponding frequencies areobtained.Verification of the method and the calculation results from in-situ measured data indicate thatt  相似文献   

13.
A numerical model is presented for the prediction of the wave field due to the diffraction of directional random waves in a harbor of arbitrary shape with partially reflecting boundaries. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method is based upon the superposition of diffraction solutions for monochromatic waves obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral equation approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous experimental data and theoretical results for both regular and random wave diffraction by offshore breakwaters and in harbors. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field inside a harbor or around a breakwater in many practical applications.  相似文献   

14.
This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1:40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.  相似文献   

15.
This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1?40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.  相似文献   

16.
基于Galieo变换,导出了运动坐标系与静止坐标系中海浪谱间的关系。由于海浪是频散的,两者间的关系是频率相关的。运动坐标系中的海浪频谱是与静止坐标系中的海浪方向谱相联系的。以文氏谱作为静止坐标系中的海浪频谱,给出了不同速度下运动坐标系中的海浪频谱。  相似文献   

17.
Multi-directional irregular waves are simulated on the basis of the given directional spectrum using a double summation model, a single direction per frequency model and a single summation model. Their results are compared. It is shown that the single direction per frequency model proposed in this paper can generate a realistic wave field. The effects of the model parameters on the simulated results are also studied in this paper and corresponding suggestions are given.  相似文献   

18.
Recent extensive and important studies have provided detailed information and compelling evidence on how the presence of waves influences the vertical diffusivity/dispersivity in the coastal environment, which can affect various water quality considerations such as the distribution of suspended sediments in the water column as well as the potential of eutrophication. Comparatively, how the presence of waves influences the horizontal diffusivity/dispersivity has received only scant attention in the literature. Our previous works investigated the role played by the Taylor mechanism due to the wave-induced drift profile which leads to the longitudinal dispersion of contaminants in the horizontal direction, under regular sinusoidal waves and random waves with single-peak spectra.Natural waves in the coastal environment, however, often possess dual-peak spectra, comprising both higher frequency wind waves and lower frequency swells. In this study, the Taylor dispersion of contaminants under random waves with dual-peak spectra is examined through analytical derivation and numerical calculations. The effects of various dual-peak spectral parameters on the horizontal dispersion, including the proportion of lower frequency energy, peak frequency ratio and spectral shape parameter, are investigated. The results show that the relative energy distribution between the dual peaks has the most significant effect. Compared with single-peak spectra with equivalent energy, the Taylor dispersion with dual-peak spectra is stronger when the lower frequency is close to the peak frequency of the single-peak spectrum, and weaker with the higher frequency instead. Thus, it can be concluded that with a dual-peak wave spectrum, wind-dominated seas with higher frequency lead to stronger dispersion in the horizontal direction than swell-dominated seas with lower frequency.  相似文献   

19.
The directional spreading of both the wavenumber and frequency spectra of finite-depth wind generated waves at the asymptotic depth limit are examined. The analysis uses the Wavelet Directional Method, removing the need to assume a form for the dispersion relationship. The paper shows that both the wavenumber and frequency forms are narrowest at the spectral peak and broaden at wavenumbers (frequencies) both above and below the peak. The directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is bi-modal above the spectral peak. In contrast, the frequency spectrum is uni-modal. This difference is shown to be the result of energy in the wind direction being displaced from the linear dispersion shell. A full parametric relationship for the directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is developed. The analysis clearly shows that typical dispersion relationships are questionable at high frequencies and that such effects can be significant. This result supports greater attention being focussed on the routine recording of wavenumber spectra, rather than frequency spectra.  相似文献   

20.
A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.  相似文献   

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