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1.
Dynamical properties of short-period temperature fluctuations are studied. Water temperature was measured continuously at several depths at the following stations: at 38°29.5′N, 141°35.8′E (100 m depth) on the continental shelf off Miyagi Prefecture in the summer of 1967, at 35°01.8′N, 139°0.8.5′E (100 m depth) in Sagami Bay in the summer of 1968, and at 32°32.2′N, 129°53.7′E (74 m depth) in Tachibana Bay in the summer of 1970. These measurements were made with a thermistor array laid down from the R. V.Tanseimaru (Ocean Research Institute, University of Tokyo) which was fixed with bow and stern anchors. Significant temperature fluctuations found at the first and the third stations are thought to be due to first mode internal waves having amplitude 3 to 5 m and period 5 to 20 minutes. The wave length of the waves is estimated to be 25 m to 400 m from the observed density structure. At the second station, we found second-mode internal waves. The period, amplitude and wave length of the waves are about 30 minutes, 1.3 m and 600 m, respectively. In all cases, the spectral density of the temperature fluctuations decreases with increase in frequency. However, the decrease obey neither the ?3 power law nor the ?5/3 power law. Coherences in the temperature fluctuations between two depths of measurement in the seasonal thermocline are significantly high in the range of frequencies lower than the local Brunt-Väisälä frequency, but are low in the higher frequency range. At the first and the third stations, the difference in the level of coherences between the lower frequencies and the higher frequencies are large. Phase differences between two depths in the thermocline are small in the lower frequency range. This suggests that the first-mode internal waves are predominant over higher-mode internal waves and over other disturbances.  相似文献   

2.
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3.
Experimental investigations on internal solitary wave (ISW) propagation and their reflection from a smooth uniform slope were conducted in a two-layered fluid system with a free surface. A 12-meter-long wave flume was in use which incorporated with: (1) a movable vertical gate for generating ISW; (2) six ultrasonic probes for measuring the fluctuation of an ISW; and (3) a steep uniform slope (from one of θ=30°, 50°, 60°, 90°, 120° and 130°) much greater than those ever published in the literature. This paper presents the wave profile properties of the ISW recorded in the flume and their nonlinear features in comparison with the existing Korteweg de Vries (KdV) and modified Korteweg-de Vries (MKdV) theories. Experimental results show that the KdV theory is suitable for most small-amplituded ISWs and MKdV theory is appropriate for the reflected ISWs from various uniform slopes. In addition, both the amplitude-based reflection coefficient and reflected energy approach a constant value asymptotically when plotted against the slope and the characteristic length ratio, respectively. The reflected wave amplitudes calculated from experimental data agree well with those reported elsewhere. The optimum reflection coefficient is found within the limit of 0.85 for wave amplitude, among the test runs from steep normal slope of 30° to inverse angle of 130°, and around 0.75 for the reflected wave energy, produced by an ISW on a vertical wall.  相似文献   

4.
Properties of coastal trapped waves when the pycnocline intersects a sloping bottom are studied using a two-layer model which has slopes in both layers. In this system there is an infinite discrete sequence of modes, and four different sorts of waves exist: the barotropic Kelvin wave, the upper shelf wave, the lower shelf wave and the internal Kelvin-type wave. They all propagate with the coast to their right in the Northern Hemisphere. The upper and lower shelf waves are due to the topographic-effect on the upper-layer and lower-layer slopes, respectively. Their motions are dominant in the respective layers being accompanied by significant interface elevations. The properties of the upper (lower) shelf wave are almost unaffected by the existence of a lower-layer (upper-layer) slope. The motion of the internal Kelvin-type wave is confined to the region around the line where the density interface intersects the bottom slope.The modes, except that with the fastest phase speed (the barotropic Kelvin wave), are assigned mode numbers in order of descending frequency. Characteristics of Mode 1 change with wavenumber; the upper shelf wave for small wavenumbers and the internal Kelvin-type wave for large wavenumbers (high frequencies). The higher modes of Mode 2 and above can be classified into the upper and lower shelf waves.  相似文献   

5.
Experimental study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
Low-frequency waves generated on steep (1:10) and mild (1:40) slopes by six series of bichromatic wave groups are studied experimentally. The shorelines for both slopes are replaced by horizontal reaches of small depth. This reduces the reflection of long waves near the shoreline significantly, which for the first time makes possible the explicit observation of outgoing breakpoint forced long waves. The breakpoint and released bound long wave mechanisms on the different slopes are compared. Generally, the breakpoint forced long waves dominate the low-frequency wave field on the steep slope, while the released bound long waves are found to be more significant on the mild slope. Two parameters indexing the effectiveness of the breakpoint mechanism are compared and the normalized slope tends to give more realistic results. Shoaling of bound long waves is analyzed and the shallow-water equilibrium limit ~ h−5/2 exhibits a good prediction of the variation of the bound long waves on both slopes.  相似文献   

6.
A field program to measure acoustic propagation characteristics and physical oceanography was undertaken in April and May 2001 in the northern South China Sea. Fluctuating ocean properties were measured with 21 moorings in water of 350- to 71-m depth near the continental slope. The sea floor at the site is gradually sloped at depths less than 90 m, but the deeper area is steppy, having gradual slopes over large areas that are near critical for diurnal internal waves and steep steps between those areas that account for much of the depth change. Large-amplitude nonlinear internal gravity waves incident on the site from the east were observed to change amplitude, horizontal length scale, and energy when shoaling. Beginning as relatively narrow solitary waves of depression, these waves continued onto the shelf much broadened in horizontal scale, where they were trailed by numerous waves of elevation (alternatively described as oscillations) that first appeared in the continental slope region. Internal gravity waves of both diurnal and semidiurnal tidal frequencies (internal tides) were also observed to propagate into shallow water from deeper water, with the diurnal waves dominating. The internal tides were at times sufficiently nonlinear to break down into bores and groups of high-frequency nonlinear internal waves.  相似文献   

7.
为了探究岛屿周围珊瑚礁在抵御海啸灾害中的作用,采用激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型FUNWAVE-TVD,对孤立波在理想化三维岛礁地形上的传播及爬坡开展了现场尺度的平面二维数值模拟,分析了入射波高、礁坪水深、礁坪宽度、礁前斜坡坡度、礁后斜坡坡度、珊瑚礁糙率对岛屿四周孤立波爬高分布的影响。结果表明,珊瑚礁的存在总体上可有效降低岛屿四周孤立波的最大爬坡高度;入射波高、礁坪水深、礁坪宽度、珊瑚礁糙率是影响珊瑚岛礁四周孤立波爬坡分布的主要因素,岛礁四周最大爬坡高度会随入射波高和礁坪水深的增大、礁坪宽度和珊瑚礁糙率的减小而不断增大;当礁坪水深增大到一定程度时,珊瑚礁主要会对岛屿背浪面的爬高失去影响,而当礁坪宽度和珊瑚礁糙率减小至一定程度时,会出现岛礁四周最大爬高高于无珊瑚礁时爬高的现象;礁后斜坡的变缓会使岛礁周围的最大爬高有所减小,而礁前斜坡坡度对珊瑚岛礁周围的最大爬高几乎没有影响。  相似文献   

8.
Distinctive packets of periodic internal waves were observed during an experiment in the Gulf of Mexico. There was a 65-m-deep mixed layer overlying a thin strong density interface. A layer of weaker density stratification extended below the interface to the bottom, at a depth of 185 m. The waves had 2-10-m amplitudes, narrow frequency bandwidths with central frequencies of 8.5 cph, and they propagated in the upslope direction. The wave packets were observed on three consecutive days. They lasted about 3 h and were always observed at the same time of day, clearly in response to tidal forcing. A model of the time/space structure of the waves was tuned to match that of the observations, showing that the data are consistent with a cnoidal wave hypothesis. Observations of low-frequency acoustic propagation along two baselines show fluctuations that we hypothesize are due to interactions with the cnoidal waves. The fluctuations have spatial correlation scales (in the slantwise direction) on the order of 76 m. We simulate these effects using a time-step PE approach. We find that a mode-coupling resonance with the internal wave field results in elevated acoustic variability along a set of discrete spokes, emanating from the acoustic source. While acoustic variability tends to increase with range and with internal wave amplitude, tangential and radial correlation scales do not show a systematic dependence. The patterns in tangential and radial correlation scales show strong anisotropic patterns in azimuth, but little systematic trend in range  相似文献   

9.
为研究内孤立波与沙波的相互作用,本文对基于OpenFOAM的SedWaveFoam求解器进行改进,建立了内孤立波-泥沙运动欧拉两相流模型。在利用试验资料对模型进行验证的基础上,在南海北部典型代表性条件下,模拟分析了500 m水深位置沙波床面上内孤立波作用下的水动力变化和泥沙运动。结果表明,内孤立波逐渐离开沙波时,海底沙波背流面处出现与内孤立波背景流速反向的流速,在内孤立波导致的流场作用下,沙波床面上的泥沙悬起并运动到床面以上的水体中。振幅100 m的内孤立波可以导致床面以上14 m高的位置处出现约0.07 kg/m3的悬沙浓度。  相似文献   

10.
This study investigates the behaviour of internal solitary waves crossing a continental slope in the presence of a seasonal thermocline. Comparisons are made between a fully non-linear computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model, and weakly non-linear theory. Previous observations suggested that the amplitudes of solitary waves are capped as they pass across the continental slope, which may be due to laminar dynamics, or due to the effect of turbulence. Across the continental slope, CFD and second order variable depth KdV (vEKdV) predictions agree well with observations of a limited change in solitary wave amplitude. First order variable depth KdV theory overpredicts the final amplitude significantly. In terms of the wave shape, the CFD modeled wave changes from a KdV shape in deep water towards an EkdV solution in shallow water, as observations suggest. The phase speed of the CFD and vEKdV waves are similar to that observed in waters of 400–500 m deep, but are slightly lower than observed in 140 m depth. CFD predictions using a standard k, turbulence model showed that turbulence had little effect on the amplitude. These preliminary results indicate that in this situation wave capping is due to laminar, large amplitude solitary wave dynamics and is independent of turbulent mixing.  相似文献   

11.
In OMEX-II-II, 9 cruises gathered optical data, principally by transmissometer. The distribution of optical turbidity caused by concentration of particulate matter (PMC) in the water column over the northern Iberian margin shows several features related to hydrography. It is concluded that a signal of PMC seen in Mediterranean Water (MW) found north of 42°N is not carried from its source at the Gibraltar Sill and Gulf of Cadiz because it is shown, using intermediate stations, that this turbid plume decays, mainly by fall out but also partly by mixing, to very low levels around southern Portugal. PMC maxima sometimes seen in MW on the northern Iberian margin are thus most likely to result from intermittent local resuspension by MW interacting with slope sediments. The highest turbidity is found over the upper slope and is the result of (i) shelf edge resuspension and off-shelf flow of turbid plumes, mainly between 100 and 300 m depth, and (ii) resuspension under the slope current aided by internal waves, in the depth range 500–800 m where the density gradient between ENACW and MW is maximal. Below the MW, flows are generally slow, and turbidity is low. The bottom nepheloid layer in deep water is also weak with PMC values <100 mg m-3. The focus of resuspension activity on the upper slope means that the region is an efficient exporter to the ocean of sediment that either escapes from the shelf or sinks to the bed from surface production. This accounts for upper slope sediments recorded in other studies as sandy or in places as rocky bottom.  相似文献   

12.
Hourly fluctuations of vertical velocity in relation to components of flow and wind and temperature oscillations at a morring site in the shelf waters off the west coast of India are discussed. The vertical velocities were computed from a time series of vertical temperature profiles assuming that horizontal advection of temperature is negligible. The computed values at a depth of 40 m during the 72-h period of observation were of the order of 10−1 to 10−2cm s−1, with a mean value of −2·77 × 10−2 cm s−1 indicating a net upward movement of water. The computed vertical velocity showed fluctuations of about 2–3 h, in addition to weaker signals of about 12 h. Based on the spectral estimates, we speculate that these fluctuations of 2–3 h in the vertical velocity may be caused by the fluctuations in the along-shore wind. The oscillations of isotherms found in the temperaturedepth time series and the spectral estimates of temperature and cross-shore flow component showed a periodicity of about 12 h, which indicated the presence of semi-diurnal internal waves. The fact that these internal wave troughs were associated with the measured onshore flow suggested that the waves were propagating offshore. The computed stability parameters showed little evidence of instability or mixing. It was found that the isotherm troughs in the temperaturedepth time series at about 12-h period coincided with high vertical shear in the cross-shore direction and low values of Brunt Vaisälä frequency.  相似文献   

13.
Reflection and diffraction of internal solitary waves by a circular island   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
We have investigated the reflection and diffraction of first-mode and second-mode solitary waves by an island, using a three-dimensional nonhydrostatic numerical model. The model domain consists of a circular island 15 km in diameter in an ocean 300 m deep. We use prescribed density anomalies in an initially motionless ocean to produce highly energetic internal solitary waves; their subsequent propagation is subject to island perturbations with and without the effect of earth’s rotation. In addition to reflected waves, two wave branches pass around the island and reconnect behind it. Island perturbations to the first-mode and second-mode waves are qualitatively similar, but the latter is more profound because of the longer contact time and, in the presence of earth’s rotation, the scale compatibility between Rossby radius of the second baroclinic mode and the island diameter. Without earth’s rotation, reflected and diffracted waves are symmetrical relative to the longitudinal axis passing through the island center. With earth’s rotation, the current following the wave front veers to the right due to Coriolis deflection. For a westward propagating incoming wave, the deflection favors northward wave propagation in the region between the crossover point and the island, shifting the wave reconnection point behind the island northward. It also displaces the most visible part of the reflected waves to the southeast. In the presence of earth’s rotation, a second-mode incoming wave produces island-trapped internal Kelvin waves, which are visible after the passage of the wave front.  相似文献   

14.
针对内孤立波在行进过程中遇到海底斜坡会对海底产生力的作用,不同坡度斜坡对内孤立波的动力响应应该存在差异。本文通过水槽中制造内波,对不同角度的斜坡对内孤立波的动力响应过程进行了研究。结果表明,内孤立波通过陆架斜坡上方,会造成斜坡沉积物超孔隙水压力的积累;在相同振幅条件下,缓坡沉积物动力响应的幅度比陡坡沉积物大;随着振幅的增加,缓坡发生动力破坏程度大于陡坡;在斜坡沉积物稳定性受到破坏之前,超孔隙水压力的积累和释放同时存在,内孤立波振幅的增大会加剧超孔隙水压力的释放。该结果对于斜坡沉积物在内孤立波作用下失稳破坏的动力学研究和斜坡稳定性分析将起到指导作用。  相似文献   

15.
近年来海洋极端天气频发,港珠澳大桥西人工岛地处外海,与其相连接的桥梁非通航跨的桥面高程较低,容易受到海浪侵袭,威胁到岛桥功能的正常发挥和结构自身安全。针对西人工岛桥结合部周围的复杂地形条件,采用OpenFOAM®开源程序,分别对S、SSW和SW三个方向的极端波浪进行了数值模拟。通过数值计算结果与物理模型试验测量值的比较验证了的模型的准确性。分析了不同方向入射波的波高和沿岛体斜坡爬高的变化规律。随着波浪入射角的增大,人工岛南侧斜坡的波浪爬高呈逐渐减小,但在岛体西端靠近桥梁的位置处,波浪爬高逐渐增大;同时也反映了越浪和桥面上水风险的大小。研究旨在为实际工程的管理和设计提供参考。  相似文献   

16.
Natural events constantly alter nearshore bathymetric properties. Hurricanes particularly affect bathymetry as they pass over a body of water. To compute an accurate forecast or recreate a hurricane's effects through hindcasting techniques, an operational bathymetry data set must be known in advance. However, obtaining and maintaining current and accurate bathymetric data can be costly and difficult to manage. In this paper we examine the extent to which variations in nearshore bathymetry affect the storm surge at the coast. A common question for wave and surge modeling is, “how good is the bathymetric data?” If we can allow for a range of fluctuations in the bathymetry without significantly adjusting the results of the surge predictions, we can potentially save months of field work and millions of dollars. A one-dimensional (1D) analytical solution for waves and water level is developed for initial testing. In the 1D case we find that as long as the amplitudes of the bathymetric fluctuations are less than 60% of the original depth, the surge at the coast is within ± 10% of the surge generated on the initial bottom slope. If the fluctuation produces a hole, a deepening of the local bathymetry, within 80% of the local water depth, the coastal storm surge calculated is still within 10% of the unperturbed value computed for bottom slopes shallower than 1:20. In addition, we find there is an optimum distance offshore for each sloped profile that corresponds to a depth between 25 and 40 m, beyond which the effects of bathymetric fluctuations begin to decrease. A coupled 2D modeling system is implemented to test our hypothesis along a realistic coastline. After selecting three study sites, we vary the bathymetry at the selected locations by ± 20%. Consistent with the 1D tests, the storm surge at the shoreline varies by less than 5%.  相似文献   

17.
Stability analysis, based on infinite slope analysis and geotechnical data from a suite of 34 cores collected from the continental slope between Wilmington and Lindenkohl Canyons, indicates that the Quaternary surficial silty clay sediments on gentle slopes are stable; that sediment stability on steeper slopes (14°–19°) is marginal; and that on precipitous slopes (>50°) only a thin veneer of unconsolidated sediments can exist. Small earthquake-induced accelerations or the effects of internal waves can result in slope sediment instabilities.  相似文献   

18.
In this study, we derive an analytical solution for long waves over a circular island which is mounted on a flat bottom. The water depth on the island varies in proportion to an arbitrary power, γ, of the radial distance. Separation of variables, Taylor series expansion, and Frobenius series are used to find the solutions, which are then validated by comparing them with previously developed analytical solutions. We also investigate how different wave periods, radii of the island toe, and γ values affect the solutions. For a circular island with a small value of γ (e.g. γ = 2/3, as in the equilibrium beach (Bruun, 1954)), the wave rays approaching near the island center reach the coastline, whereas the rays approaching away from the center bend away from the coastline, leading to smaller wave amplitudes along the coast. However, for a circular island with a large value of γ, e.g. γ = 2, all the rays on the island reach the coast, giving large coastline wave amplitudes. If the island domain is small compared to the wavelength, the wave amplitudes on the coastline do not increase significantly; however, when the island domain is not small, the wave amplitudes increase significantly. If γ is also large, the amplitudes can be so large as to cause a disaster on the island.  相似文献   

19.
In this paper we review and re-examine the classical analytical solutions for run-up of periodic long waves on an infinitely long slope as well as on a finite slope attached to a flat bottom. Both cases provide simple expressions for the maximum run-up and the associated flow velocity in terms of the surf-similarity parameter and the amplitude to depth ratio determined at some offshore location. We use the analytical expressions to analyze the impact of tsunamis on beaches and relate the discussion to the recent Indian Ocean tsunami from December 26, 2004. An important conclusion is that extreme run-up combined with extreme flow velocities occurs for surf-similarity parameters of the order 3–6, and for typical tsunami wave periods this requires relatively mild beach slopes. Next, we compare the theoretical solutions to measured run-up of breaking and non-breaking irregular waves on steep impermeable slopes. For the non-breaking waves, the theoretical curves turn out to be superior to state-of-the-art empirical estimates. Finally, we compare the theoretical solutions with numerical results obtained with a high-order Boussinesq-type method, and generally obtain an excellent agreement.  相似文献   

20.
SWAN model predictions, initialized with directional wave buoy observations in 550-m water depth offshore of a steep, submarine canyon, are compared with wave observations in 5.0-, 2.5-, and 1.0-m water depths. Although the model assumptions include small bottom slopes, the alongshore variations of the nearshore wave field caused by refraction over the steep canyon are predicted well over the 50 days of observations. For example, in 2.5-m water depth, the observed and predicted wave heights vary by up to a factor of 4 over about 1000 m alongshore, and wave directions vary by up to about 10°, sometimes changing from south to north of shore normal. Root-mean-square errors of the predicted wave heights, mean directions, periods, and radiation stresses (less than 0.13 m, 5°, 1 s, and 0.05 m3/s2 respectively) are similar near and far from the canyon. Squared correlations between the observed and predicted wave heights usually are greater than 0.8 in all water depths. However, the correlations for mean directions and radiation stresses decrease with decreasing water depth as waves refract and become normally incident. Although mean wave properties observed in shallow water are predicted accurately, nonlinear energy transfers from near-resonant triads are not modeled well, and the observed and predicted wave energy spectra can differ significantly at frequencies greater than the spectral peak, especially for narrow-band swell.  相似文献   

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