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1.
On the modeling of wave propagation on non-uniform currents and depth   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
By transforming two different time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equations with dissipation term for wave propagation on non-uniform currents into wave-action conservation equation and eikonal equation, respectively, shown are the different effects of dissipation term on the eikonal equation in the two different mild slope equations. The performances of intrinsic frequency and wave number are also discussed. Thus the suitable mathematical model is chosen in which the wave number vector and intrinsic frequency are expressed both more rigorously and completely. By using the perturbation method, an extended evolution equation, which is of time-dependent parabolic type, is developed from the time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equation which exists in the suitable mathematical model, and solved by using the alternating direction implicit (ADI) method. Presented is the numerical model for wave propagation and transformation on non-uniform currents in water of slowly varying topography. From the comparisons of the numerical solutions with the theoretical solutions of two examples of wave propagation, respectively, the results show that the numerical solutions are in good agreement with the exact ones. Calculating the interactions between incident wave and current on a sloping beach [Arthur, R.S., 1950. Refraction of shallow water waves. The combined effects of currents and underwater topography. EOS Transactions, August 31, 549–552], the differences of wave number vector between refraction and combined refraction–diffraction of waves are discussed quantitatively, while the effects of different methods of calculating wave number vector on numerical results are shown.  相似文献   

2.
New three-dimensional ray-acoustics expressions for the amplitude, eikonal, and phase along a ray path are derived. These expressions clearly indicate the numerical calculations that must be performed in order to evaluate these functions. The ocean medium is characterized by a three-dimensional random index of refraction which is decomposed into deterministic random components  相似文献   

3.
This study investigates how the refraction of water waves is affected by the higher-order bottom effect terms proportional to the square of bottom slope and to the bottom curvature in the extended mild-slope equations. Numerical analyses are performed on two cases of waves propagating over a circular shoal and over a circular hollow. Numerical results are analyzed using the eikonal equation derived from the wave equations and the wave ray tracing technique. It is found that the higher-order bottom effect terms change the wavelength and, in turn, change the refraction of waves over a variable depth. In the case of waves over a circular shoal, the higher-order bottom effects increase the wavelength along the rim of shoal more than near the center of shoal, and intensify the degree of wave refraction. However, the discontinuity of higher-order bottom effects along the rim of shoal disperses the foci of wave rays. As a result, the amplification of wave energy behind the shoal is reduced. Conversely, in the case of waves over a circular hollow, the higher-order bottom effects decrease the wavelength near the center of the hollow in comparison with the case of neglecting higher-order bottom effects. Consequently, the degree of wave refraction is decreased, and the spreading of wave energy behind the hollow is reduced.  相似文献   

4.
The GNSS-Acoustics (GNSS-A) method couples acoustics with GNSS to allow the precise localization of a seafloor reference in a global frame. This method can extend on-shore GNSS networks and allows the monitoring of hazardous oceanic tectonic phenomena. The goal of this study is to test the influence of both acoustics ray tracing techniques and spatial heterogeneities of acoustic wave speed on positioning accuracy. We test three different ray tracing methods: the eikonal method (3D sound speed field), the Snell-Descartes method (2D sound speed profile), and an equivalent sound speed method. We also compare the processing execution time. The eikonal method is compatible with the Snell-Descartes method (by up to 10 ppm in term of propagation time difference) but takes approximately a thousand times longer to run. We used the 3D eikonal ray tracing to characterize the influence of a lateral sound speed gradient on acoustic ray propagation and positioning accuracy. For a deep water (? 3,000 m) situation, frequent in subduction zones such as the Lesser Antilles, not accounting for lateral sound speed gradients can induce an error of up to 5 cm in the horizontal positioning of a seafloor transponder, even when the GNSS-A measurements are made over the barycenter of a seafloor transponder array.  相似文献   

5.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(2):155-162
It is studied whether the mass transport or energy transport is the proper viewpoint for internally generating waves in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu [J. Waterw., Port, Coastal Ocean Eng. 119 (1993) 618–638]. Numerical solutions of the Boussinesq equations with the internal generation of sinusoidal waves show that the energy transport approach yields the required wave amplitude properly while the mass transport approach yields wave amplitude different from the required one by the ratio of phase velocity to energy velocity. The waves which pass through the wave generation point do not cause any numerical distortion while the incident waves are generated. The technique of internal generation of waves shows its capability of generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear sinusoidal waves.  相似文献   

6.
为了分析海浪混沌特征,在混沌动力系统相空间重构的基础上,利用关联维数法和最大Lyapunov指数法,对实验室波浪水池的实测波面高度时间序列进行混沌特性识别。结果表明,波高时间序列存在混沌现象,混沌理论可应用于海浪的研究。  相似文献   

7.
8.
Cyclone-anticyclone asymmetry in a rotating fluid results in vortices with cyclonic rotation being attenuated more rapidly than vortices with anticyclonic rotation due to the Ekman bottom friction. To explain this effect, some authors invoked rather complex integral (averaged along the vertical) models with the parametrization of nonlinear friction. A simple analytical model, free of the procedure of formal averaging and based on a separate consideration of the equations for external flow in the nonviscous region and internal flow in the boundary layer, is investigated in this work. The corresponding equations are written in the so-called geostrophic momentum approximation, which makes it possible to take into account the nonlinear advective mass transport in the boundary layer at small Rossby numbers. The nonlinear equation of the hyperbolic type for the tangential velocity, which describes the process of attenuation of an axisymmetric vortex, is obtained from the condition of total mass conservation. Based on the solutions to this equation, it was shown that distinctions in the character of vortex attenuation are caused by deviations from the geostrophic regime in the nonviscous region. It was established that the concentration (compression) of anticyclonic vortices and the extension of cyclonic ones take place in the process of attenuation.  相似文献   

9.
从地球流体中非线性波动所的方程经行波变换所得的平面自治动力系统出发,利用微分方程几何理论,揭示了地球流体中几种非线性波动均具有周期解,而不存在孤波解的普遍性质,采用在平面自治系统的平衡点附近作Taylor展开方法,论述了分式简谐函数是有限振幅波解的一般形式的结论。  相似文献   

10.
本文研究了1类具梯度项的次线性椭圆型方程大解和完全有界解的存在性问题。运用上下解方法和极值原理分别得到了Rn上方程存在完全大解的充分必要条件和存在完全有界解的充分条件,并且证明了该方程在Rn中光滑有界区域Ω上不存在大解。  相似文献   

11.
This paper studies the chaotic behaviours of a relative rotation nonlinear dynamical system under parametric excitation and its control. The dynamical equation of relative rotation nonlinear dynamical system under parametric excitation is deduced by using the dissipation Lagrange equation. The criterion of existence of chaos under parametric excitation is given by using the Melnikov theory. The chaotic behaviours are detected by numerical simulations including bifurcation diagrams, Poincaré map and maximal Lyapunov exponent. Furthermore, it implements chaotic control using non-feedback method. It obtains the parameter condition of chaotic control by the Melnikov theory. Numerical simulation results show the consistence with the theoretical analysis. The chaotic motions can be controlled to period-motions by adding an excitation term.  相似文献   

12.
Generation of waves in Boussinesq models using a source function method   总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4  
A method for generating waves in Boussinesq-type wave models is described. The method employs a source term added to the governing equations, either in the form of a mass source in the continuity equation or an applied pressure forcing in the momentum equations. Assuming linearity, we derive a transfer function which relates source amplitude to surface wave characteristics. We then test the model for generation of desired incident waves, including regular and random waves, for both one and two dimensions. We also compare some model results with analytical solution and available experiment data.  相似文献   

13.
《Coastal Engineering》1988,12(3):285-297
Ship-reported waves published in the Indian Daily Weather Report are compiled for a period of 16 years and are used for the estimation of the longshore transport rate. Using the two well known longshore transport equations, viz., the Shore Protection Manual equation and the Komar and Inman equation, the longshore transport rate at Visakhapatnam beach is computed and the values are compared with earlier studies. Based on the inference that the Shore Protection Manual equation yields a better estimate for this region, the same equation is used for the estimation of the longshore transport rate along the Andhra coast. This study shows that the general direction of longshore transport is towards northeast during March to October and southwest during November to February. The longshore transport rate is high during the southwest monsoon period from June to September. A higher sediment transport rate is observed for the coastline oriented at 80 degrees east of north. The annual net transport is found to be quite low at the coastal segments near Ramaypatnam, Machilipatnam and Sacremento Light House, whereas it is found to be high near Nizampatnam, Gollapalem and Narasapur.  相似文献   

14.
A phase-resolving wave transformation module is combined with an intra-wave sediment transport module to calculate the on-/offshore sediment transport rates. The wave module is based on the Boussinesq equations extended into the surf zone. The vertical variation of the mean undertow and the intra-wave sediment concentrations are calculated. The net sediment transport rates are calculated, and the equation for conservation of sediment is solved to predict the beach profile evolution. The results of the present paper showed that the undertow contribution to the sediment transport rates is not dominating in all parts of the surf zone, even for eroding beaches, suggesting that other contributions should not be neglected. The present model also showed that for the same offshore wave energy the time series of the oscillatory motion is important and that the effect of wave groups cannot be disregarded.  相似文献   

15.
Two types of analytical solutions for waves propagating over an asymmetric trench are derived. One is a long-wave solution and the other is a mild-slope solution, which is applicable to deeper water. The water depth inside the trench varies in proportion to a power of the distance from the center of the trench (which is the deepest water depth point and the origin of x-coordinate in this study). The mild-slope equation is transformed into a second-order ordinary differential equation with variable coefficients based on the longwave assumption [Hunt's, 1979. Direct solution of wave dispersion equation. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coast. and Ocean Engineering 105, 457–459] as approximate solution for wave dispersion. The analytical solutions are then obtained by using the power series technique. The analytical solutions are compared with the numerical solution of the hyperbolic mild-slope equations. After obtaining the analytical solutions under various conditions, the results are analyzed.  相似文献   

16.
The second approximation is obtained for the mass transport velocity within the oscillatory bottom boundary layer beneath sinusoidal progressive and standing waves of finite amplitude. This approximation includes a simple new term, which essentially ensures continuity of the vertical gradient of mass transport at the edge of the layer and is of third-order in the perturbation (or wave-slope) parameter. For long progressive waves in conditions of zero net mass flow, the term represents a moderate reduction in mass transport at the edge of the layer, compared with the first approximation of Longuet-Higgins. For standing waves of arbitrary length, the mass transport is reduced (increased) far from (near) the bottom, except near nodal locations where an increase (a reduction) is predicted. The proposed correction to the first approximation yields clearly improved results when compared with appropriate experimental evidence. Deficiencies in the higher-order theories of Sleath and Isaacson for propagating waves are disclosed.  相似文献   

17.
Zonally propagating wave solutions of the linearized shallow water equations (LSWE) in a zonal channel on the rotating spherical earth are constructed from numerical solutions of eigenvalue equations that yield the meridional variation of the waves' amplitudes and the phase speeds of these waves. An approximate Schrödinger equation, whose potential depends on one parameter only, is derived, and this equation yields analytic expressions for the dispersion relations and for the meridional structure of the waves' amplitudes in two asymptotic cases. These analytic solutions validate the accuracy of the numerical solutions of the exact eigenvalue equation. Our results show the existence of Kelvin, Poincaré and Rossby waves that are harmonic for large radius of deformation. For small radius of deformation, the latter two waves vary as Hermite functions. In addition, our results show that the mixed mode of the planar theory (a meridional wavenumber zero mode that behaves as a Rossby wave for large zonal wavenumbers and as a Poincaré wave for small ones) does not exist on a sphere; instead, the first Rossby mode and the first westward propagating Poincaré mode are separated by the anti-Kelvin mode for all values of the zonal wavenumber.  相似文献   

18.
卢静  张荣  徐振源 《海洋学报》2010,32(9):5949-5953
研究用适当的量化指标来刻画动态网络的相同步,为此定义了新的量化指标:相邻结点的网络平均锁相值和网络平均相频差.动态网络结点选择的是多旋转中心的Lorenz混沌振子,对Lorenz系统进行柱面坐标变换,用振幅耦合方法构造动态网络.分别对星形网络和小世界网络进行了仿真计算,结果表明随着耦合强度的增大,网络中相邻结点的两个系统之间存在相同步现象,而且相同步行为与定义的量化指标之间存在较准确的对应关系.  相似文献   

19.
In this paper, an exact analytic solution in terms of Taylor series to the explicit modified mild-slope equation (EMMSE) for wave scattering by a general Homma island is constructed and the convergence of the series solution is analyzed. To validate the new analytic solution, comparisons are made against the existing solutions including analytic solutions to both the long-wave equation and Helmholtz equation, approximate analytic solutions to the modified mild-slope equation, numerical solutions to the mild-slope equation and experimental solutions. Because of the use of the governing equation EMMSE together with mass-conserving matching conditions along the toe of the shoal, the present model is valid for not only waves in the whole spectrum from long waves to short waves but also bathymetries with the maximal seabed slope being as high as 4.27:1. Since the general Homma island is an extension of the original Homma island, the present solution can be very conveniently used to study the effects of bottom topography on combined refraction and diffraction. It is found that the larger the shoal size is, the more significant the wave amplification against the cylinder is.  相似文献   

20.
The system of equations of motion describing the gravity wave propagation in a perfect heavy liquid layer is transformed into a new integral equation for the free surface elevations. In the limit cases, this integral equation describes the linear and nonlinear periodic waves as well as the known types of solitary waves. In this case a dispersion equation arises because perturbations of the second and higher orders of smallness are neglected. The integral equation allows for the propagation of invariable surface perturbations of arbitrary forms if their spatial spectrum is concentrated near small wave numbers (compared to the inverse wave amplitude). Several examples of solutions are presented.  相似文献   

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