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1.
Sand spits with distal hooks have been well documented from coasts with low to moderate tidal ranges, unlike high tidal-range environments. Datasets from 15 LiDAR and 3 UAV surveys between 2009 and 2019 on the Agon spit in Normandy (France), a setting with one of the largest tidal ranges in the world (mean spring tidal range: 11 m), combined with in-situ hydrodynamic records between 2013 and 2017, highlight a three-stage pattern of spit hook evolution. Stage 1 (2009–2013) commenced with the onshore migration and attachment of a swash bar, followed by persistent spit accretion updrift of the bar and erosion downdrift because of the slow speed of bar migration in this large tidal-range environment. In stage 2 (2013–2016), three overwash events and a 220 m-wide breach culminating in the total destruction of the spit during winter 2015–2016 involved the landward mobilization of thousands of cubic metres of sand. These events occurred during short durations (a few hours) when spring high tides coincided with relatively energetic waves, underscoring the importance of storms in rapid spit morphological change. Strong spring tidal currents maintained the breach. Stage 3 (2016–2019) has involved new hook construction through welding of a swash bar and spit longshore extension, highlighting the resilience of the spit over the 10-year period, and involving a positive sediment balance of 244 000 m3. The three stages bring out, by virtue of the temporal density of LiDAR and UAV data used, a high detail of spit evolution relative to earlier studies in this macrotidal setting. The large tidal range strongly modulates the role of waves and wave-generated longshore currents, the main process drivers of spit evolution, by favouring long periods of inertia in the course of the spring–neap tidal cycle, but also brief episodes of significant morphological change when storm waves coincide with spring high tides. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
Suspended particulate matter (SPM) fluxes and dynamics are investigated in the East Frisian Wadden Sea using a coupled modeling system based on a hydrodynamical model [the General Estuarine Transport Model (GETM)], a third-generation wave model [Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)], and a SPM module attached to GETM. Sedimentological observations document that, over longer time periods, finer sediment fractions disappear from the Wadden Sea Region. In order to understand this phenomenon, a series of numerical scenarios were formulated to discriminate possible influences such as tidal currents, wind-enhanced currents, and wind-generated surface waves. Starting with a simple tidal forcing, the considered scenarios are designed to increase the realism step by step to include moderate and strong winds and waves and, finally, to encompass the full effects of one of the strongest storm surges affecting the region in the last hundred years (Storm Britta in November 2006). The results presented here indicate that moderate weather conditions with wind speeds up to 7.5 m/s and small waves lead to a net import of SPM into the East Frisian Wadden Sea. Waves play only a negligible role during these conditions. However, for stronger wind conditions with speeds above 13 m/s, wind-generated surface waves have a significant impact on SPM dynamics. Under storm conditions, the numerical results demonstrate that sediments are eroded in front of the barrier islands by enhanced wave action and are transported into the back-barrier basins by the currents. Furthermore, sediment erosion due to waves is significantly enhanced on the tidal flats. Finally, fine sediments are flushed out of the tidal basins due to the combined effect of strong erosion by wind-generated waves and a longer residence time in the water column because of their smaller settling velocities compared to coarser sediments.
Karsten A. LettmannEmail:
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3.
The optimization of the bathymetric resurvey policy of the Netherlands Hydrographic Service requires insight into sea floor dynamics in the Southern North Sea. To study the spatial variations in sea floor dynamics, the bathymetric archives of the Netherlands Hydrographic Service are analyzed using deformation analysis, a statistical and innovative approach for bathymetric data. Based on the uncertainty of the data, our implementation of deformation analysis selects the significant spatial and temporal parameters, and provides estimates and their uncertainties for those parameters. We focus on sand wave areas in the regions of Rotterdam and of Amsterdam. In those areas, dredging takes place to guarantee a minimum depth. The results reveal a difference in sand wave migration between the two regions, over the past two decades. The dominant wavelengths of the sand waves vary within the regions, but we find a similar wavelength distribution for the two regions. We compare our results to earlier studies of the same sand wave areas in the Rotterdam region, showing similar migration rates, but different wavelengths. It is concluded, based on sand wave dynamics alone, that the Amsterdam region should be assigned a higher resurvey frequency than the Rotterdam region.  相似文献   

4.
The 1D version of the Model for Applications at Regional Scale is used to parameterize the effects of sea surface waves in 2D in a horizontally homogeneous offshore zone of the Iroise sea. Here we present the first simulation of the Iroise sea including sea surface waves forcing, and more generally, the first study of a boundary layer including the Hasselmann force with a tidal wave. We use a single equation turbulence closure based on a non-local diagnosis for energetic and dissipation length scales. The turbulent energy flux at the surface due to whitecaps and the Hasselmann force induced by Stokes drift are assessed using the whole sea surface waves spectrum given by the Wave Watch Third generation model. The ability of the parameterization to reproduce surface currents over a period of 1 year (2007) is tested with high frequency radar using spectral and time-frequency analysis. One problem with 1D modelling, corresponding to overestimation of current oscillating at inertial frequency is illustrated by comparing 1D and 3D simulations. We found an overall improvement by including the Hasselmann force mainly within the bandwidth of less than one cycle per day to one cycle per day for surface currents. Turbulence is induced by whitecaps decaying rapidly below the ocean surface but the mixed layer below 40 m is deeper due to waves breaking on the sea surface.  相似文献   

5.
《Continental Shelf Research》2005,25(9):1115-1131
Tidal inlet characteristics are controlled by wave energy, tidal range, tidal prism, sediment supply and direction and rates of sand delivered to the inlet. This paper deals with the relations between inlet and lagoon evolutions, linked by the tidal prism. Our study is focused on the Maumusson Inlet and the Marennes-Oléron Bay (first oyster farming area in Europe), located on the western coast of France. The tidal range (2–6 m) and wave climate (mean height: 1.5 m) place this tidal inlet system in the mixed energy (tide, waves), tide-dominated category. The availability of high-resolution bathymetric data since 1824 permits to characterise and quantify accurately morphological changes of both the inlet and the tidal bay. Since 1824, sediment filling of the tidal bay has led to a 20% decrease in its water volume, and a 35% reduction of the inlet throat section. Furthermore, the bay is subjected to a very high anthropic pressure, mainly related to oyster farming. Thus, both natural and human-related processes seem relevant to explain high sedimentation rates. Current measurements, hydrodynamic modelling and cross-sectional area of the inlet throat are used in order to quantify tidal prism changes since 1824. Both flood and ebb tidal prism decreased by 35%. Decrease in the Marennes-Oléron Bay water volume is inferred to be responsible for a part of tidal prism decrease at the inlet. Tidal prisms decrease may also be explained by an increase in frictional resistance to tidal wave propagation, due to a general shoaling and oyster farms in the bay. A conceptual model is proposed, taking into account natural and human-related sedimentation processes, and explaining tidal inlet response to tidal bay evolutions.  相似文献   

6.
Digital elevation models and topographic pro?les of a beach with intertidal bar and trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) morphology in Merlimont, northern France, were analysed in order to assess patterns of cross‐shore and longshore intertidal bar mobility. The beach exhibited a pronounced dual bar–trough system that showed cross‐shore stationarity. The bars and troughs were, however, characterized by signi?cant longshore advection of sand under the in?uence of suspension by waves and transport by strong tide‐ and wind‐driven longshore currents. Pro?le changes were due in part to the longshore migration of medium‐sized bedforms. The potential for cross‐shore bar migration appears to be mitigated by the large size of the two bars relative to incident wave energy, which is modulated by high vertical tidal excursion rates on this beach due to the large tidal range (mean spring tidal range = 8·3 m). Cross‐shore bar migration is also probably hindered by the well‐entrenched troughs which are maintained by channelled high‐energy intertidal ?ows generated by swash bores and by tidal discharge and drainage. The longshore migration of intertidal bars affecting Merlimont beach is embedded in a regional coastal sand transport pathway involving tidal and wind‐forced northward residual ?ows affecting the rectilinear northern French coast in the eastern English Channel. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
Despite vigorous tidal and wind mixing, observations in an estuarine tidal inlet in the Wadden Sea show that during part of the tidal cycle, vertical stratification and internal waves may still develop. Acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and conductivity, temperature, depth observations, collected over the past 6 years at 13 h anchor stations (ASs), reveal that these occur especially during slack tide, when there is little wind and large freshwater discharge from nearby Lake IJssel. Measurements with a moored ADCP show that in the same tidal phase, strong cross-channel circulation develops, which may suddenly reverse circulation sense due to passing density fronts. In the vertically stratified phase that follows after the front passage, propagating mode-one solitary internal waves are observed. These are resonantly generated during decelerating tidal ebb currents when the (shear) flow passes a transcritical regime (Froude number equal to 1). A combination of photographs (including one from the International Space Station), bathymetric data, and ASs data leads to the discovery of yet another source of internal waves in this area, produced during slackening tide by propagating lee waves that develop over a deep trench. We suggest that both the cross-channel circulation as well as the (solitary) internal waves may locally be of importance for the (re)distribution and transport of sediments and nutrients and may influence tidally averaged transports.  相似文献   

8.
《Continental Shelf Research》2006,26(12-13):1469-1480
The generation of internal waves in the partially mixed estuaries is examined. The numerical experiments consider the barotropic tidal currents interacting with isolated obstacles in an open channel. The bottom boundary layer and longitudinal salinity gradient are included. Internal lee (arrested) waves are excited when the accelerating barotropic tidal current approaches the first-mode internal wave speed. The arrested waves are amplified, and are subsequently released when the decelerating tidal current falls below the first-mode internal wave speed. The power input from the barotropic tidal energy into internal wave energy is calculated. It is on the order of 10−2 W/m2, and is comparable to the estimated interior dissipation rate. This suggests that the tidally generated internal waves could be a significant energy source for mixing in the halocline.  相似文献   

9.
Erosion due to waves is an important and actual problem for most coastal areas of the North Sea. The objective of this study was to estimate the impact of wave action on the coastline of Sylt Island. From a 2-year time series (November 1999 to October 2001) of hydrological and wave parameters generated with a coupled wave–current modelling system, a period comprising storm ‘Anatol’ (3–4 December 1999) is used to investigate the effects of waves on currents and water levels and the input of wave energy into the coastline. The wave-induced stress causes an increase of the current velocity of 1 m/s over sand and an additional drift along the coast of about 20 cm/s. This produces a water level increase of more than 20 cm in parts of the tidal basin. The model system also calculates the wave energy input into the coastline. Scenario runs for December 1999 with a water level increase of 50 cm and wind velocity increased by 10% show that the input of the wave energy into the west coast of Sylt Island increases by 30% compared to present conditions. With regard to the forecasted near-future (Woth et al., Ocean Dyn 56:3–15, 2006) increase of strong storm surges, the scenario results indicate an increased risk of coastal erosion in the surf zone of Sylt Island.  相似文献   

10.
The morphologic changes in estuaries and coastal lagoons are very complex and constitute a challenging task in coastal research. The bathymetric changes result from the combined action of tides, waves, rivers discharge and wind stress in the area of interest. Additionally, an accurate knowledge of the sediment transport is essential to achieve a good morphological characterization. This work establishes the influence of the wave climate on the morphodynamics of the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet by analysing the numerical results of the morphodynamic modelling system MORSYS2D. The numerical simulations considered a realistic coupled forcing of tidal currents and waves. The computed sediment fluxes and bathymetric changes are analysed and compared with the erosion and accretion trends obtained from the numerical simulations forced only by tidal currents, in order to establish the wave climate influence. The final bathymetry and the corresponding changes are compared with bathymetric data collected through surveys. It is concluded that: (a) the morphodynamics of the study area is dominated by the wave regime in the lagoon inlet and nearshore areas, while in the inner areas is tidally dominated; and (b) the inclusion of the wave regime forcing constitutes an improvement in order to accurately reproduce the local morphodynamics.  相似文献   

11.
A discussion is presented about the mechanisms that govern the spatial and seasonal variability in sand-wave height and migration speed in the 4 km wide Marsdiep tidal inlet, the Netherlands. Since 1998, current velocities and water depths have been recorded with an ADCP that is mounted under the ferry ‘Schulpengat’. In this paper, the current measurements were used to explain the sand-wave observations presented in Buijsman and Ridderinkhof [this issue. Long-term evolution of sand waves in the Marsdiep inlet. I: high-resolution observations. Continental Shelf Research, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2007.10.011]. Across nearly the entire inlet, the sand waves migrate in the flood direction. In the flood-dominated southern part of the inlet, the ‘measured’ (i.e. based on sand-wave shape and migration speed) and predicted bedload transport agree in direction, magnitude, and trends, whereas in the ebb-dominated northern part the predicted bedload and suspended load transport is opposite to the sand-wave migration. In the southern part, 55% of the bedload transport is due to tidal asymmetries and 45% due to residual currents. In addition to the well-known tidal asymmetries, asymmetries that arise from the interaction of M2M2 and its overtides with S2S2 and its compound tides are also important. It is hypothesised that in the northern part of the inlet the advection of suspended sand and lag effects govern the sand-wave migration. The relative importance of suspended load transport also explains why the sand waves have smaller lee-slope angles, are smaller, more rounded, and more three-dimensional in the northern half of the inlet. The sand waves in this part of the inlet feature the largest seasonal variability in height and migration speed. This seasonal variability may be attributed to the tides or a seasonal fluctuation in fall velocity. In both cases sediment transport is enhanced in winter, increasing sand-wave migration and decreasing sand-wave height. The influence of storms and estuarine circulation on the sand-wave variability is negligible.  相似文献   

12.
Tidal sand dune dynamics is observed for two tidal cycles in the Arcachon tidal inlet, southwest France. An array of instruments is deployed to measure bathymetric and current variations along dune profiles. Based on the measurements, dune crest horizontal and vertical displacements are quantified and show important dynamics in phase with tidal currents. We observed superimposed ripples on the dune stoss side and front, migrating and changing polarity as tidal currents reverse. A 2D RANS numerical model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of a flat non-cohesive sand bed submitted to a tidal current. The model reproduces the bed evolution until a field of sand bedforms is obtained that are comparable with observed superimposed ripples in terms of geometrical dimensions and dynamics. The model is then applied to simulate the dynamics of a field of large sand dunes of similar size as the dunes observed in situ. In both cases, simulation results compare well with measurements qualitatively and quantitatively. This research allows for a better understanding of tidal sand dune and superimposed ripple morphodynamics and opens new perspectives for the use of numerical models to predict their evolution.  相似文献   

13.
This work presents the first synthesis of secular to millenary morphological evolutions and stratigraphy of a wave-dominated estuary, the Arcachon lagoon, from a combination of unpublished bathymetric maps (1865 and 2001), core results and high-resolution seismic profiles recorded for the first time in this lagoon. The Arcachon lagoon is located on the Atlantic coast of France, facing the wave-dominated shelf of the Bay of Biscay. It is a mesotidal semi-enclosed environment of about 160 km2.The sediment budget of the Arcachon lagoon was computed by subtracting the 1865 bathymetric map from that of 2001. The computed volume difference is low (?9.9±35×106 m3 in 136 yrs) and is the result of the balance between erosion and accretion that occurs within tidal channels and tidal flats, respectively. This morphological evolution pattern is explained by low sediment supply and also by the tidal distortion resulting from the morphology of the lagoon. Deep channels connected to the inlet are dominated by ebb currents inducing erosion. Tidal flats and transverse channels display weak or flood-dominated tidal currents leading to the deposition of silts. The areas of tidal flat siltation locally correlate with the presence of oyster farms, suggesting the influence of Man on the lagoon sediment-fill. Transverse channel-infill is related to weak tidal currents resulting from the hydraulically inefficient orientation of these channels which served as an ancient drainage network.Evidence for tidal channel-infill and channel abandonment are also provided by seismic profiling and cores. The upper stratigraphic succession of the lagoon (about 10 m thick) includes four main stratigraphic units dominated by channel-fills. The two lower units (around 7500–2800 yrs BP) display tabular-shape sandy channels interpreted to be records of the open estuarine phase of the Arcachon lagoon. The two upper units (around 2800 yrs BP to present-day) display U-shaped mixed sand-and-mud channel-fills interpreted to be records of the closure of the lagoon. Given that the basal estuarine units are transgressive and the upper lagoonal units are regressive, the main stratigraphic change at around 2800 yrs BP is interpreted as being the maximum flooding surface (MFS). This late MFS is explained by the low sediment supply. It is proposed that the transition from the estuarine to the lagoonal phase is related to the development of the Cap-Ferret spit in response to an increase in the ratio between wave power to tide power. This change in wave-to-tide ratio may be triggered by wave power increase following the Subboreal/Subatlantic climate instability or a decrease in tide power following a decrease in tidal prism related to the lagoon sediment-fill.Thus, the evolution of the Arcachon lagoon over the last millenaries was mainly controlled by its spit development, leading to a wave-dominated estuary in terms of its geomorphology. Once it was partially closed, extensive mud flats developed in the lagoon which became ebb-dominated.  相似文献   

14.
《Continental Shelf Research》2008,28(18):2550-2564
Side scan sonar, high-resolution seismic and multibeam data collected off the coast of Asinara Island in the northernmost part of Sardinia have revealed the occurrence of four distinct acoustical patterns that can be related to four main sea-bed types. The four facies represent fine sand (Type A), medium to coarse sand (Type B), patchy sand cover between basement outcrops (Type C) and a predominantly sandy sea-floor colonized by the seagrass Posidonia Oceanica (Type P). The distribution of the sea-bed types indicates that the study area is characterized by a rather complex morphological setting. A remarkable physiographic difference exists between the eastern and western sector of the island, with the latter being affected by strong, westerly winds, mainly the so-called “Mistral”. The wave climate in this area is dominated by wind waves, which can reach a maximum height of 8 m during winter storms. Sediments are mobilized at water depths greater than 30 m from the sea surface during these energetic oceanographic regimes. We infer that dune fields and sand ribbons are deposited by strong offshore flows along the sea-bed resulting as a consequence of wave- and wind-induced onshore water transport.  相似文献   

15.
The idealized model of Besio et al. (On the formation of sand waves and sand banks. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 2006; 557: 1–17) is used to predict the wavelength of tidal dunes (sand waves) generated by tidal currents in estuaries and shallow seas. The predictions are then analysed and a formula is proposed to estimate the wavelength of tidal dunes as a function of the parameters of the problem. The wavelength of the dunes is found to increase when the water depth is increased and/or the strength of the tidal current is decreased. On the other hand, the size of the bottom material (if medium sand is considered) and the tidal ellipticity are found to have a relatively small influence on the length of the bottom forms. The formula proposed provides results which are consistent with field observations of different authors. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
Semidiurnal tidal currents on the outer shelf of the Mackenzie Shelf in the Beaufort Sea were found to be strongly influenced by the locally generated baroclinic tide. Two primary factors are involved in this process: (1) the sharp shelf break along the northeastern Mackenzie Shelf, promoting the generation of vigorous internal tidal waves; and (2) the proximity to critical latitudes for M2 and N2 motions locking these waves and preventing them from leaving the source region. As a result, internal tides are resonantly trapped between the shelf and critical latitudes. The physical properties and temporal variations of tidal motions were examined using current meter measurements obtained from 1987–1988 at four sites (SS1, SS2, SS3, and SS4) offshore of the shelf break at depths of ∼200 m. Each mooring had Aanderaa RCM4s positioned at ∼35 m below the surface and ∼50 m above the bottom. Complex demodulation was used to compute the envelopes (amplitude modulation) of these components. A striking difference in the variability of clockwise (CW) and counterclockwise (CCW) tidal currents was found. The CW tides are highly variable, have greater amplitude, exhibit a burst-like character associated with wind events and contain about 80% of the total energy of the semidiurnal tidal currents. In contrast, the CCW components have a more regular temporal regime with distinct monthly, fortnightly and 10-day modulation at astronomical periodicities associated with frequency differences M2–N2 (0.03629 cpd), S2–M2 (0.06773 cpd), and S2–N2 (0.10402 cpd). Significant horizontal correlation of the CW current envelopes was found only between stations near the northeast Mackenzie Shelf, indicating this to be the main area of baroclinic internal wave generation.  相似文献   

17.
The response of the tidal system in the southern North Sea to morphodynamic changes was investigated in a modelling study using fine resolution bathymetric observations available for 1982–2011. The Semi-implicit Cross-scale Hydroscience Integrated System Model (SCHISM) was set up for the different sets of bathymetries. One set of bathymetry was compiled from a large number of bathymetric measurements over many years, while the other two reflected bathymetry state in the area of Wadden Sea during 2000 and 2011, respectively. The temporal and spatial evolution of bathymetry was dominated by migration of tidal channels. The M4 tide showed larger sensitivity to bathymetric change in the Wadden Sea than the M2 tide, whereas the structure of the latter remained rather robust. The largest change of the tidal wave due to the differences in bathymetries was located off the North Frisian Wadden Sea. Traces of changes were also found far away from the regions of their origin because the tidal waves in the North Sea propagate the local disturbances basin-wide. This illustrated an efficient physical mechanism of teleconnectivity, i.e. effecting the local responses to the larger-scale or remote change of ocean bottom caused by erosion and deposition. The tidal distortion resulting from the relatively small bathymetric changes was substantial, particularly in the coastal zone. This is a manifestation of the nonlinear tidal transformation in shallow oceans and is crucial for the sediment transport and the morphodynamic feedback, because of the altered tidal asymmetry.  相似文献   

18.
Nearshore regions act as an interface between the terrestrial environment and deeper waters. As such, they play important roles in the dispersal of fluvial sediment and the transport of sand to and from the shoreline. This study focused on the nearshore of Poverty Bay, New Zealand, and the processes controlling the dispersal of sediment from the main source, the Waipaoa River. Hydrodynamics and sediment-transport in water shallower than 15 m were observed from April through mid-September 2006. This deployment afforded observations during 3-4 periods of elevated river discharge and 5 dry storms.Similar wind, river discharge, wave, current, and turbidity patterns were characterized during three of the wet storms. At the beginning of each event, winds blew shoreward, increasing wave heights to 2-3 m within Poverty Bay. As the cyclonic storms moved through the system the winds reversed direction and became seaward, reducing the local wave height and orbital velocity while river discharge remained elevated. At these times, high river discharge and relatively small waves enabled fluvially derived suspended sediment to deposit in shallow water. Altimetry measurements indicated that at least 7 cm was deposited at a 15 m deep site during a single discharge event. Turbidity and seabed observations showed this deposition to be removed, however, as large swell waves from the Southern Ocean triggered resuspension of the material within three weeks of deposition. Consequently, two periods of dispersal were associated with each discharge pulse, one coinciding with fluvial delivery, and a second driven by wave resuspension a few weeks later. These observations of nearfield sediment deposition contradict current hypotheses of very limited sediment deposition in shallow water offshore of small mountainous rivers when floods and high-energy, large wave and fast current, oceanic conditions coincide.Consistently shoreward near-bed currents, observed along the 10 m isobath of Poverty Bay, were attributed to a combination of estuarine circulation, Stokes drift, and wind driven upwelling. Velocities measured at the 15 m isobath, however, were directed more alongshore and diverged from those at the 10 m isobath. The divergence in the currents observed at the 10 and 15 m locations seemed to facilitate segregation of coarse and fine sediment, with sand transported near-bed toward the beach, while suspended silts and clays were exported to deeper water.  相似文献   

19.
The Aquitanian Coast (France) is a high-energy meso-macrotidal environment exhibiting a highly variable double sandbar system. The inner and the outer bar generally exhibit a bar and rip morphology and persistent crescentic patterns, respectively. In June 2007, an intense five-day field experiment was carried out at Biscarrosse Beach. A large array of sensors was deployed on a well-developed southward-oriented bar and rip morphology. Daily topographic surveys were carried out together with video imaging to investigate beach morphodynamic evolution. During the experiment, offshore significant wave height ranged from 0.5 to 3 m, with a persistent shore-normal angle. This paper identifies two types of behavior of an observed rip current: (1) for low-energy waves, the rip current is active only between low and mid tide with maximum mean rip current velocity reaching 0.8 m/s for an offshore significant wave height (Hs) lower than 1 m; (2) for high-energy waves (Hs≈ 2.5–3 m), the rip current was active over the whole tide cycle with the presence of persistent intense offshore-directed flows between mid and high tide. For both low and high-energy waves, very low-frequency pulsations (15–30 min) of the mean currents are observed on both feeder and rip channels.A persistent slow shoreward migration of the sandbar was observed during the experiment while no significant alongshore migration of the system was measured. Onshore migration during the high-energy waves can be explained by different sediment transport processes such as flow velocity skewness, wave asymmetry or bed ventilation. High-frequency local measurements of the bed evolution show the presence of significant (in the order of 10 cm) fluctuations (in the order of 1 h). These fluctuations, observed for both low- and high-energy waves, are thought to be ripples and megaripples, respectively and may play an important but still poorly understood role in the larger scale morphodynamics. The present dataset improves the knowledge of rip dynamics as well as the morphological response of strongly alongshore non-uniform meso-macrotidal beaches.  相似文献   

20.
Velocity measurements with vertical resolution 0.02 m were conducted in the lowest 0.5 m of the water column using acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) at a test site in the western part of the East China Sea. The friction velocity u * and the turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate ε wl(ζ) profiles were calculated using log-layer fits; ζ is the height above the bottom. During a semidiurnal tidal cycle, u * was found to vary in the range (1–7) × 10−3 m/s. The law-of-the-wall dissipation profiles ε wl(ζ) were consistent with the dissipation profiles ε mc(ζ) evaluated using independent microstructure measurements of small-scale shear, except in the presence of westward currents. It was hypothesized that an isolated bathymetric rise (25 m height at a 50-m seafloor) located to the east of the measurement site is responsible for the latter. Calculation of the depth integrated internal tide generating body force in the region showed that the flanks of the rise are hotspots of internal wave energy that may locally produce a significant turbulent zone while emitting tidal and shorter nonlinear internal waves. This distant topographic source of turbulence may enhance the microstructure-based dissipation levels ε mc(ζ) in the bottom boundary layer (BBL) beyond the dissipation ε wl(ζ) associated with purely locally generated turbulence by skin currents. Semi-empirical estimates for dissipation at a distance from the bathymetric rise agree well with the BBL values of ε mc measured 15 km upslope.  相似文献   

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