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在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加. 相似文献
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从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。 相似文献
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风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。 相似文献
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利用南麂海洋站１９８１－１９９０年实测波浪资料，探讨了该海域风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄的统计分布特征。分析结果：当风浪平均波陡介于０．０２－０．０４时，其出现频率各季在８２％以上；当风浪平均波龄介于０．５－１．２时，其出现频率各季在７８％以上；当风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄介于０．０２－０．０４和０．５－１．０时，其出现频率为５３．５％－６９．６％。 相似文献
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由于涌浪与风浪在特征物理参量及成长、衰亡上的显著不同,区分风涌浪以及研究涌浪对风浪的影响尤为重要。本文使用2013年及2015年大洋中的WaMoSⅡ测波雷达观测数据,研究了涌浪对风浪能量的影响。由于测波雷达仅使用了9s的有效周期作为谱分离判据,其所得风浪有效波高显著高于PM谱充分成长关系给出的波高。因此本文结合2D法与1D法,加入风速、风浪夹角、波龄等要素给出新的判据,重新对风、涌浪进行了分离。通过对比不同的波龄判据,发现当波龄取1.5时,所得结果与PM谱吻合良好。以Toba-3/2定律为基础,研究了不同类型涌浪对风浪能量的影响。发现三种类型涌浪存在时,风浪能量及有效波高整体上都有所增加,其中尤其以反向涌浪存在时增加最多。 相似文献
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风浪谱的形式的再探讨 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
在现有风浪理论中,如Sverdrup与Munk的有效波理论,的三维风浪理论,Pierson与Neumann的波谱理论和文圣常的普遍风浪谱理论,对于尚处在同时随风区和风时成长的风浪的处理存在着一个共同的缺陷,即都将此阶段的风浪处理为或相对于风区或相对于风时成长。为弥补这一不足,本文作者曾于1962年沿用文氏提出的波谱-能量方法导出一同时受制于风区和风时成长的谱。可是,这种谱具有较大的经验性,且在确定谱中组成波的涡动粘滞系数时,用了一个不全是符合风浪实际的经 相似文献
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在1985年2-3月和11月寒潮大风天气过程期间,我们用美国ENDECO公司的949型波浪跟踪浮标在胶州湾内两个测站进行了海浪连续观测.本文选取其中45组资料做了波谱计算,对风浪谱资料分析表明,胶州湾内的风浪是短风区的风浪,风时影响不明显,风浪的发展和消衰有随风速变化的趋势,本文还以风浪相对风区成长的相似率,揭示出胶州湾内风浪谱随风区成长的特征,并求得无因次谱峰频率(fM)与无因次风区(x)及无因次能量(E)之间的关系,后者的关系近似于Hasselmann等人1976年给出的结果. 相似文献
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The nonlinear modulation of water wave groups is investigated and the interaction equations with induced flows are obtained. The analysis is performed up to the third order of the wave steepness a by treating it as a small parameter in the singular perturbation technique by means of the Krylov-Bogoliubov-Mitropolski method. The equation which governs the development of the wave envelope is found by a modification of the ordinary nonlinear Schroedinger equation for the case of uniform depth. The equations governing the behavior of the induced mean flow are examined by deriving the second order flow when the form of the modulated wave train is prescribed. The present theory can describe the mean flow caused by the radiation stress. Some applications containing the monochromatic wave instability are given to confirm the theoretical results.An outline of this paper was presented at The Ocean Surface Symposium (Sendai, 1984). 相似文献
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The yearly variations of mean sea levels at various locations along the coasts of Japan have been investigated, based upon the data of observation taken at 55 tide-gauge stations from 1953 to 1970, and some discussions have been made on the relationships between those variations and meteorological and oceanographical conditions, etc. The results obtained are as follows:
- In cases covering 90% of all the tide-gauge stations, the magnitude of the annual mean rate of variation of ground level is less than 10 mm/year, and the mean value of the magnitude for all the stations is ?3.17 mm/year, while that exclusive of Osaka is ?1.7 mm/year.
- The effect of atmospheric pressure variation on the height of annual mean sea level is of the order of several centimeters in view from both time and place.
- In view of the characteristic types of variations, the coasts of Japan may be divided into five regions of similar mean sea level deviations. And in the yearly variations of mean sea levels, there can be seen a kind of variation which corresponds to the variation of oceanographical conditions such as abnormal fall of seawater temperature.
- The mean sea level deviations at various locations along the coasts of Japan, referred to the standard sea level “T.P.” are different for different places. Namely, (1) on the coast of the Japan Sea, the west coast of Kyushu, the coast of Sanriku and the coast of Hokkaido, the mean sea level is higher than on the Pacific coasts from Southern Kyushu to Southern Honshu. (2) Along the coast of the Seto-Inland Sea, the mean sea level is generally higher.
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D. Prandle 《Progress in Oceanography》2004,61(1):1-26
For strongly tidal, funnel-shaped estuaries, we examine how tides and river flows determine size and shape. We also consider how long it takes for bathymetric adjustment, both to determine whether present-day bathymetry reflects prevailing forcing and how rapidly changes might occur under future forcing scenarios.Starting with the assumption of a 'synchronous' estuary (i.e., where the sea surface slope resulting from the axial gradient in phase of tidal elevation significantly exceeds the gradient in tidal amplitude ), an expression is derived for the slope of the sea bed. Thence, by integration we derive expressions for the axial depth profile and estuarine length, L, as a function of and D, the prescribed depth at the mouth. Calculated values of L are broadly consistent with observations. The synchronous estuary approach enables a number of dynamical parameters to be directly calculated and conveniently illustrated as functions of and D, namely: current amplitude Û, ratio of friction to inertia terms, estuarine length, stratification, saline intrusion length, flushing time, mean suspended sediment concentration and sediment in-fill times.Four separate derivations for the length of saline intrusion, LI, all indicate a dependency on (Uo is the residual river flow velocity and f is the bed friction coefficient). Likely bathymetries for `mixed' estuaries can be delineated by mapping, against and D, the conditions LI/L<1,EX/L<1 (EX is the tidal excursion) alongside the Simpson-Hunter criteria D/U3<50 m−2 s3. This zone encompasses 24 out of 25 `randomly' selected UK estuaries.However, the length of saline intrusion in a funnel-shaped estuary is also sensitive to axial location. Observations suggest that this location corresponds to a minimum in landward intrusion of salt. By combining the derived expressions for L and LI with this latter criterion, an expression is derived relating Di, the depth at the centre of the intrusion, to the corresponding value of Uo. This expression indicates Uo is always close to 1 cm s−1, as commonly observed. Converting from Uo to river flow, Q, provides a morphological expression linking estuarine depth to Q (with a small dependence on side slope gradients).These dynamical solutions are coupled with further generalised theory related to depth and time-mean, suspended sediment concentrations (as functions of and D). Then, by assuming the transport of fine marine sediments approximates that of a dissolved tracer, the rate of estuarine supply can be determined by combining these derived mean concentrations with estimates of flushing time, FT, based on LI. By further assuming that all such sediments are deposited, minimum times for these deposition rates to in-fill estuaries are determined. These times range from a decade for the shortest, shallowest estuaries to upwards of millennia in longer, deeper estuaries with smaller tidal ranges. 相似文献
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Yoshihiko Sekine 《Journal of Oceanography》1993,49(5):593-606
The topographic effect of a meridional marine ridge on the spin-down of a cyclonic eddy, which is embedded in a zonal mean flow, is examined by use of a two layer numerical model. It is shown that the cyclonic eddy initially given on the eastern flank of the marine ridge decays in a short time. This result is common to all cases with the different volume transports of the mean flow (3070 Sv) and of the cyclonic eddy (1535 Sv). During the decay process, the cyclonic eddy shifts mainly northward into the shallower region, which is different from the dominant westward shift of the isolated cyclonic eddy. If the mean flow across over the marine ridge at the more northern latitude, the cyclonic eddy spins down more rapidly. A mean flow shifts zonal or south-eastward over a western side of the ridge, while it deflects north-eastward over an eastern side. The deflection angle of mean flow over the ridge depends on the intensity of lower layer velocity and density stratification. It is suggested that the topographic effect of the meridional marine ridge on the cyclonic eddy with mean flow is influenced both by the global phenomena that controls the inclination of the mean flow from zonal direction and by the local phenomena that controls the intensity of the topographic effect of the marine ridge. 相似文献
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《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2001,48(6):1423-1441
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Evaluation of Laser Scanning and Stereo Photography Roughness Measurement Systems Using a Realistic Model Seabed Surface 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
《Oceanic Engineering, IEEE Journal of》2009,34(4):466-475
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Based on the archived data of the ocean color scanner MODIS-Aqua for 2003–2011, we constructed the long-term monthly mean distributions of the reflectance Rrs of the Black Sea for April, May, June, and September in order to visualize the contributions of seasonal factors to the long-term variability of the basin’s images. In April, the Rim Current’s branch west of 34° E is visualized by higher Rrs in different regions of the visible spectrum due to the transport of suspended matter caused by intensification of the Rim Current during the winter-spring period. During the June coccolithophore “blooms,” the long-term Rrs level is 2–3 times higher when compared to the previous and subsequent months. This excess is particularly considerable outside the shelf and coastal areas. The open sea Rrs distribution in June features horizontal inhomogeneity. The seasonal trend of the Rrs spectra on the Black Sea NW shelf is explicitly related to the annual cycle of the continental runoff effects. 相似文献
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In contrast with the usual method to obtain the wind-wave directional spectrum by multiplying the frequency spectrum with an empirical directional function, the authors attempt to derive analytically the directional spectrum by adopting proper spectral form and using effective parameters, namely, the zero order momentm
0 of the wind-wave frequency spectrumS(), its peak frequency 0 and the so-called peakness factorP=0
S(0)/m
0, where is angular frequency. The directional spectrum is given in a form of frequency spectrum for each direction. The spectral directionality depends on, in addition to frequency, the wind-wave growth status, for the peakness factorP as introduced by the authors previously is a measure of the wave development stage. The salient features of the directional spectrum, comparison with existing formulas and the verification of the spectrum by observational data are to be given in the Part 2 of the paper.Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China. 相似文献