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1.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(2):115-142
The Arcachon Lagoon on the French Atlantic coast is a triangular shaped lagoon of 20 km on a side connected to the ocean by a 3-km wide inlet between the mainland and an elongated sand spit. This tidal inlet exhibits a particularly active morphology due to locally strong tidal currents and rough wave conditions. During the past 300 years, minimum and maximum spatial extents of the Cap Ferret sand spit have varied by 8 km while one or two channels have alternately allowed circulation between the lagoon and the ocean. These impressive morphological changes have never prevented regular flushing of the lagoon, eventhough the spit came as close as 300 m from the coast during the 18th century. According to Bruun's concept of tidal inlet stability [Theory and Engineering (1978), 510 pp.], the balance between longshore littoral transport and the tidal prism ensures the perpetuity of the inlet.Process modeling was believed to give better insight into the respective roles of tides and waves in driving the long-term morphological changes of the inlet. A two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was therefore developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. The use of process models at a scale of decades requires a schematization of the input conditions. We defined representative mean annual wave and tide conditions with respect to sediment transport, i.e. conditions that induce the same annual transport as measured in the field. Driven by these representative conditions, simulations run from the 1993 bathymetry show that the tide is responsible for the opening of a new channel at the extremity of the sand spit (where tidal currents are the strongest), while waves induce a littoral transport responsible for the longshore drift of sand bodies across the inlet. One particular simulation consisted in running the model from a hypothetical initial topography where the channels are filled with sand and the entire inlet is set to a constant depth (3 m). The results show the reproduction of a channel and bar system comparable to historical observations, which supports the idea that the lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades. 相似文献
2.
苏北中部滨海平原成陆机制研究 总被引：8，自引：0，他引：8
苏北中部滨海平原位于废黄河三角洲和长江三角洲之间，其形成与全新世最大海侵之后长江、古黄河的供沙历史和供沙状况密切相关，并且现今海域南黄海辐射沙洲的辐聚点也位于这段海岸，故探讨其成陆机制具有重要意义。本文数值模拟了公元８世纪时该区的Ｍ２潮汐、潮流，在此基础上，计算了７种粒径泥沙在当时潮流场中的净输运状况，划分了海底冲淤区。计算结果表明，公元８世纪时苏北岸外存在大致以东台为顶点的辐射状古潮流场，其分布格局与现今苏北岸外大致以京港为顶点的辐射关潮流场基本一致，该辐射状潮流场的存在是由当时台东岸外的独特驻潮波波腹所决定的。进入苏北岸外古辐射状潮流场中的泥沙，在辐聚、辐散的潮流作用下，每一个潮周期均自ＮＥ、ＳＥ方向向东台附近海域净输运泥沙，在东台附近海域发生淤积。由此认为，苏北中部滨海平原是大致以东台为顶点的辐聚、辐散潮 相似文献
3.
Design aspects other than the profile development of the seaward side have been investigated in this paper. Aspects such as scale effects, rear stability, round head design and longshore transport have been treated here, based on extensive test series on two different berm breakwater designs. A first conclusion is that scale effects were not present in a 1:35 scale model compared with a 1:7 large scale model with wave heights up to 1.7 m.A first design rule was assessed on the relationship between damage at the rear of a berm breakwater and the crest height, wave height, wave steepness and rock size. Tests on a berm breakwater head showed that enlarging the berm height at the crest and therefore the amount of rock in the berm was effective with regard to stability.Finally the onset of longshore transport due to oblique wave attack was studied and compared with literature. Formulae were derived for this onset of transport and also for the range of more serious transport up to longshore transport of coarse gravel. 相似文献
4.
应用椭圆余弦波的绕射理论,推导了V形防波堤的浅水波浪绕射解析解,从而对现有的Airy微幅波理论进行了有效拓展。据此理论对V形防波堤的浅水波绕射作用进行了解析计算,并与几何形状相近的圆弧型防波堤结果加以了对比。结果表明：椭圆余弦波理论计算的V形防波堤最大波浪力和最大绕射波面明显大于微幅波理论的对应值。本方法适用于张角180°的有限长直立薄壁防波堤的浅水波绕射作用计算,从而将无限长直立薄壁堤的反射波理论加以有效拓展。张角同为120°的V形堤与圆弧堤的堤后防浪效果相近,而180°圆弧堤的堤后防浪效果优于张角90°的V形堤。 相似文献
5.
弧板式透空堤消浪性能影响因素数值研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
弧板式透空堤是由弧型板组成的新型防波堤结构。为探讨其透射系数的影响因素,利用Fluent软件基于N-S方程构建了波浪与板式透空堤相互作用的数值模型,讨论了相对潜深、入射波周期、相对波高、相对板宽和结构型式对透射系数的影响。结果表明:弧板式透空堤的透射系数随着相对波高和入射波周期的增大而增大,在静水面附近透射系数最小,尤以静水面和略高于静水面时的消浪效果最佳;在相同波浪要素条件下,静水面及其上0.02 m和0.04 m位置处,弧板式透空堤的消浪效果明显优于平板式透空堤。 相似文献
6.
This study examines the hydrodynamic performance of a wave absorbing double curtain-wall breakwater. The breakwater consists of a seaward perforated wall and a shoreward impermeable wall. Both walls extend from above the seawater to some distance above the seabed. Then the below gap allows the seawater exchange, the sediment transport and the fish passage. By means of the eigenfunction expansion method and a least square approach, a linear analytical solution is developed for the interaction of water waves with the breakwater. Then the reflection coefficient, the transmission coefficient and the wave forces acting on the walls are calculated. The numerical results obtained for limiting cases agree very well with previous predictions for a single partially immersed impermeable wall, the double partially immersed impermeable walls and the bottom-standing Jarlan-type breakwater. The predicted reflection coefficients for the present breakwater also agree reasonable with previous experimental results. Numerical results show that with appropriate structure parameters, the reflection and transmission coefficients of the breakwater may be both below 0.5 at a wide range of the relative water depth. At the same time, the magnitude of wave force acting on each wall is small. This is significant for practical engineering. 相似文献
7.
The paper presents investigations of wave climate, tidal inlet hydraulics, and sand sediment bypassing at the entrance to Westport Harbour, South Island, New Zealand. The results complement and extend those of studies of bar morphologies and sediment characteristics already published. Longshore transport of about 1 × 106 m3/year is directed in a net eastward fashion across the inlet because of an in‐built misalignment of the harbour training walls. Approximately 90% of the drift is bypassed, and has been since 1921, by deflection and splitting of the main sediment streams through the inner and outer bars and a transverse channel aoross the entrance. The outer bar appears to be the submarine, downdrift extension of Carters Breach and river load appears to contribute an order of magnitude less sediment to the complex than annual littoral drift. River sediments and littoral drift are mixed off the harbour and a declining proportion over time is recirculated to cause progradation of North Beach. The tidal compartment contributes little to scour of the entrance because of the predominance of bar bypassing. Contrary to the recommendations of several past studies, it is argued that improvements in navigation depths at West‐port are more likely to be obtained through modification of the littoral drift system than they are from tidal compartment enlargement. 相似文献
8.
Tide-driven bed load transport is an important portion of the net annual sediment transport rate in many shoreface and shelf environments. However, bed load transport under waves cannot be measured in the field and bed load transport by currents without waves is barely measurable, even in spring tidal conditions. There is, consequently, a strong lack of field data and validated models. The present field site was on the shoreface and inner shelf at 2 to 8.5 km offshore the central Dutch coast (far outside the surfzone), where tidal currents flow parallel to the coast. Bed load transports were carefully measured with a calibrated sampler in spring tidal conditions without waves at a water depth of 13–18 m with fine and medium sands. The near-bed flow was measured over nearly a year and used for integration to annual transport rates. An empirical bed load model was derived, which predicts bed load transports that are a factor of > 5 smaller than predicted by existing models. However, they agree with laboratory data of sand and gravel transport in currents near incipient motion. The damped transport rates may have been caused by cohesion of sediment or turbulence damping due to mud or biological activity. The annual bed load transport rate was calculated using a probability density function (pdf) derived from the near-bed current and orbital velocity data which represented the current and wave climate well when compared to 30 years of data from a nearby wave station. The effect of wave stirring was included in the transport calculations. The net bed load transport rate is a few m2/year. This is much less than predicted in an earlier model study, which is partly due to different bed load models but also due to the difference in velocity pdf. The annual transport rate is very sensitive to the probability of the largest current velocities. 相似文献
9.
This study investigates the wave deformation of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater installed on the slope. Experiments were conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. Measurements of the free surface elevations around an impermeable submerged breakwater were carried out using 19 capacitance-type wave gages. In addition, a numerical model is proposed in three-dimensional random wave field. It is shown that the numerical results reproduce the general trend of the experimental results well. Investigations are made to study the effect of the spreading parameter Smax and bottom topography (bottom slope and submerged breakwater) on the wave deformation. It is pointed out that concentration of wave energy with larger values of the spreading parameter Smax is located within narrow limits in onshore side of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the supplementary discussion is made by means of numerical results. 相似文献
10.
基于开源程序REEF3D,通过建立高精度二维数值波浪水槽,系统研究了聚焦波浪在浅堤上传播变形的规律,着重分析了聚焦波浪通过浅堤的水动力过程及能量变化规律,讨论了不同波浪要素对聚焦波浪传播特性的影响。除此之外,还考虑了双浅堤布置对聚焦波浪传播变形的影响。研究结果表明:极端波浪通过浅堤时,堤顶水深越小,波浪主频能量衰减越显著。在给定堤顶水深条件下,聚焦点与浅堤的相对位置对聚焦波浪能量的衰减影响较小。在双浅堤布置条件下,随着浅堤间距的增加,上下游浅堤的相互影响逐渐减弱,高频段的波浪能量也随之减小。 相似文献
11.
Field measurements were conducted in Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, a megatidal embayment (spring tidal range of 15 m), in order to monitor, over the course of a tidal cycle, sediment transport variability due to waves and tides on the upper part of a tidal flat characterised by shallow water depths. Sensors used to measure currents, water depth and turbidity were installed just above the bed (0.04 m). Two experiments were conducted under contrasting hydrodynamic conditions. The results highlight wave activity over the tidal flat even though observed wind waves were largely dissipated due to the very shallow water depths. Very high suspended sediment concentrations (up to 6 kg/m3) were recorded in the presence of wave activity at the beginning of the local flood, when significant sediment transport occurred, up to 7 times as much as under conditions of no wave activity. This influence may be attributed to the direct action of waves on bed sediments, to wave-induced liquefaction, and to the erosive action of waves on tidal channel banks. The sediment composition, comprising a clay fraction of 2-5%, may also enhance sediment transport by reducing critical shear stress through the sand lubrication effect. The results also show that antecedent meteorological conditions play an important role in suspended sediment transport on the tidal flat. Total sediment flux directions show a net transport towards the inner part of the bay that contributes to deposition over the adjacent salt marshes, and this tendency also prevails during strong wave conditions. Such sediment transport is characterised by significant variability over the course of the tidal cycle. During fair and moderate weather conditions, 83% and 71% of the total flux was observed, respectively, over only 11% and 28% of the duration of the local tidal cycle and with water depths between 0.04 and 0.3 m. These results suggest that in order to improve our understanding of sediment budgets in this type of coastal environment, it is essential to record data just at the beginning and at the end of tidal submergence close to the bed. 相似文献
12.
Numerical study on the characteristics of flow field and wave propagation near submerged breakwater on slope 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
In this study,characteristics of flow field and wave propagation near submerged breakwater on a sloping bed are investigated with numerical model. The governing equations of the vertical twodimensional model are Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes equations. The Reynolds stress terms are closed by a nonlinear k ε turbulence transportation model. The free surface is traced through the PILC-VOF method. The proposed numerical model is verified with experimental results. The numerical result shows that the wave profile may become more asymmetrical when wave propa-gates over breakwater. When wave crest propagates over breakwater,the anticlockwise vortex may generate. On the contrary,when wave hollow propagates over breakwater,the clockwise vortex may generate. Meanwhile,the influenced zone of vortex created by wave crest is larger than that created by wave hollow. All the maximum values of the turbulent kinetic energy,turbulent dissi-pation and eddy viscosity occur on the top of breakwater. Both the turbulent dissipation and eddy viscosity increase as the turbulent kinetic energy increases. Wave energy may rapidly decrease near the breakwater because turbulent dissipation increases and energy in lower harmonics is transferred into higher harmonics. 相似文献
13.
Investigation of the effects of offshore breakwater parameters on sediment accumulation 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Ali Remzi Birben &#x;smail Hakk&#x;
zler Servet Karasu Murat &#x;hsan Kmürcü 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(2):284-302
Littoral sediment transport is the main reason for coastal erosion and accretion. Therefore, various types of structures are used in shore protection and littoral sediment trapping studies. Offshore breakwaters are one of these structures. Construction of offshore breakwaters is one of the main countermeasures against beach erosion. In this paper, offshore protection process is studied on the effect of offshore breakwater parameters (length, distance and gap), wave parameters (height, period and angle) and on sediment accumulation ratio, one researched in a physical model. In addition to the experimental studies, numerical model in which the formulae of the sediment discharge (i.e. the formulae of CERC and Kamphuis), was used was developed and employed. The results of the experimental and numerical studies were compared with each other. 相似文献
14.
A numerical assessment study of tsunami attack on the rubble mound breakwater of Haydarpasa Port, located at the southern entrance of the Istanbul Bosphorus Strait in the Sea of Marmara, Turkey, is carried out in this study using a Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes solver, IHFOAM, developed in OpenFOAM® environment. The numerical model is calibrated with and validated against the data from solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments representing tsunami attack. Furthermore, attack of a potential tsunami near Haydarpasa Port is simulated to investigate effects of a more realistic tsunami that cannot be generated in a wave flume with the present state of the art technology. Discussions on practical engineering applications of this type of numerical modeling studies are given focusing on pressure distributions around the crown-wall of the rubble mound breakwater, and the forces acting on the single stone located behind the crown-wall at the rear side of the breakwater. Numerical modeling of stability/failure mechanism of the overall cross-section is studied throughout the paper.The present study shows that hydrodynamics along the wave flume and over the breakwater can be simulated properly for both solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments. Stability of the overall cross-section can only be simulated qualitatively for solitary wave cases; on the other hand, the effect of the time elapsed during tsunami overflow cannot be reflected in the simulations using the present numerical tool. However, the stability of the overall cross-section under tsunami overflow is assessed by evaluating forces acting on the rear side armor unit supporting the crown-wall of the rubble mound breakwater as a practical engineering application in the present paper. Furthermore, two non-dimensional parameters are derived to discuss the stability of this armor unit; and thus, the stability condition of the overall cross-section. Approximate threshold values for these non-dimensional parameters are presented comparing experimental and numerical results as a starting point for engineers in practice. Finally, investigations on the solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments/simulations are extended to the potential tsunami simulation in the scope of both representation of a realistic tsunami in a wave flume and stability of the rubble mound breakwater. 相似文献
15.
J. Nicholson I. Broker J. A. Roelvink D. Price J. M. Tanguy L. Moreno 《Coastal Engineering》1997,31(1-4)
Five different coastal area morphodynamic models have been set up to run on the same offshore breakwater layout and an intercomparison carried out on the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic output produced by each scheme. In addition, the predicted morphodynamics was checked against available laboratory and field data.It is concluded that the models are capable of producing realistic estimates for the dominant morphodynamic features associated with offshore breakwaters. Coupling of the wave, current and sediment transport components of each scheme is shown to yield bathymetry which attains a state of equilibrium, unlike models which are based on the initial transport field only. 相似文献
16.
Risk Assessment for Tuzla Naval Base Breakwater 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
Can Elmar BALAS 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(3)
1 .IntroductionTurkeywasstruckbytwomajorearthquakeeventsonAugust 1 7thandNovember 1 2th ,1 999,namedIzmit (Mw=7.4 )andD櫣ｚｃｅ (Mw=7.2 )earthquakes,respectively .ThestationsoperatedbytheGeneralDirectorateofDisasterAffairs,theKandilliObservatoryandEarthquakeResearchInstituteofIstanbulTechnicalUniversitymeasuredatleast 2 7stronggroundmotionsfortheIzmitearthquakewithin 2 0 0kmofthefault.AsignificantsegmentofthefaultrupturedintheareabetweenthewestofGolcukandtheeastofLakeSapanca .Inthesou… 相似文献
17.
Dong Hyawn KIM 《中国海洋工程》2014,(6):739-748
A new load surface based approach to the reliability analysis of caisson-type breakwater is proposed. Uncertainties of the horizontal and vertical wave loads acting on breakwater are considered by using the so-called load surfaces, which can be estimated as functions of wave height, water level, and so on. Then, the first-order reliability method（FORM） can be applied to determine the probability of failure under the wave action. In this way, the reliability analysis of breakwaters with uncertainties both in wave height and in water level is possible. Moreover, the uncertainty in wave breaking can be taken into account by considering a random variable for wave height ratio which relates the significant wave height to the maximum wave height. The proposed approach is applied numerically to the reliability analysis of caisson breakwater under wave attack that may undergo partial or full wave breaking. 相似文献
18.
Tao Jianhua Tian Zhenfu
Professor Dept. of Mechanics Tianjin University Tianjin
Assistant Dept. of Mathematics Ningxia University Yinchuan Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region 《中国海洋工程》1991,(1)
Based on the singleline theory, a numerical simulation is presented to predict the shoreline evolution on sand beach. A parabolic equation of longshore sediment transport and boundary conditions are proposed. The combined effect of wave diffraction and refraction on the shoreline evolution on the downdrift side of the breakwater is taken into account and is calculated using the theory of regular waves and irregular waves. The present model is verified by the field observation data of erosion for half a year on the downdrift side of a harbor, and compared with some experimental results. The numerical results are in good agreement with the field measured and experimental data. 相似文献
19.
In this study, solitary waves passing over a submerged breakwater are investigated both experimentally and numerically. A total of 9 experimental conditions are carried out, including different incident wave heights and water depths. Numerical simulations are performed using a high-order finite-difference model solving Navier–Stokes (N–S) equations. The predicted water wave elevation, velocity and pressure show good agreement with experimental data, verifying the accuracy and capacity of the numerical model. Furthermore, parametric studies are conducted by numerical modelling to examine the effects of the geometrical features of submerged dike on hydrodynamic characteristics around the breakwater. 相似文献
20.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,43(1):59-74
This paper presents a study of the siltation process in an access channel to a port through analysis of environmental data, viz. waves, tidal currents, sediment characteristics, silt concentration and siltation at site. A rational methodology has been presented to co-relate environmental data and siltation quantity, judiciously applying the various theories available to wave propagation, littoral current, sediment transport and its trapping. The efficacy of the method is then tested to simulate the observed siltation in different phases of its development in terms of widening and deepening of the channel. It is observed that estimation of the representative environmental parameters is very important as the data collected over a long period show wide variation since sediment transport formulae available are very sensitive to these parameters. An attempt has been made in this paper to understand the mechanism of siltation in the approach channel to the port. 相似文献