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1.
Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
R. A. Holman 《Coastal Engineering》1986,9(6)
Statistics of wave run-up maxima have been calculated for 149 35-minutes data runs from a natural beach. During the experiment incident wave height varied from 0.4 to 4.0 m, incident wave period from 6 to 16 s, and beach face slope from 0.07 to 0.20. Four extreme statistics were calculated; the maximum run-up height during each run, the 2% exceedence level of shoreline elevation, the 2% exceedence height for individual run-up peaks, and the 2% exceedence level for swash height as determined by the zero-upcrossing method. These statistics were best parameterized when normalized by the incident significant wave height and plotted against the Iribarren number, ξ = β/(H/L0)1/2. The swash data (with set-up removed) showed less scatter than total run-up (with set-up included). For Iribarren number greater than 1.5 the run-up was dominated by the incident frequencies, for lower Iribarren number longer period motions dominated the swash. A reasonable value of wave steepness for a fully developed storm sea is 0.025 so that a storm Iribarren number can be estimated as 6.3 times the beach slope. Using this and an offshore design wave height, the included graphs may provide guidance in determining a design run-up height. 相似文献
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通过波浪水槽实验,开展不同类型波浪作用下的沙质岸滩演化规律研究工作。本次实验研究不考虑比尺,采用1:10与1:20组成的复合沙质斜坡对岸滩进行概化,选取规则波和椭圆余弦波两种典型波浪作用,对波浪的传播、变形和破碎、上爬、回落过程以及波浪作用前后沙质岸滩床面地形进行了观测,探讨波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面演化规律。本文实验工况中,规则波作用下,岸滩剖面呈现出沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面,椭圆余弦波作用下的岸滩剖面均呈滩肩形态,发现岸滩剖面形态不仅与波浪作用类型、强度、周期等因素相关,还与波浪破碎的强度等因素有关。通过对实验过程中现象的进行观察和分析,引入了卷破波水舌冲击角的概念。对波浪卷破破碎后形成的水流挟沙运动与岸滩剖面形态的关系进行定性分析,对水舌冲击角与Irribarren参数之间的关系进行定量分析,基于Irribarren参数与岸滩剖面形态的关系初步建立了波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面形态判别关系式。通过本文实验结果和前人实验结果对趋势线进行拟合,求得其判别系数,判别式能够较好地划分淤积型岸滩、侵蚀型岸滩及过渡型岸滩三种岸滩形态。 相似文献
3.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,50(3):97-115
A new probability density function (pdf) for the transformation of depth-limited wave height distributions is presented. Assuming the bore approach for modeling the energy dissipation in the inner surf zone to be valid, an analytical expression for the transformation of wave height distribution including shoaling and breaking on a planar beach is obtained. The resulting expression for the pdf is formulated with a single function and only one shape parameter, which is calibrated as a function of the local root-mean-square (rms) wave height-to-water depth ratio and the local Iribarren number. The transformed pdf is able to reproduce the shape of field and laboratory measured wave height histograms and the sharp change in the shape of the wave height distribution in depth-limited breaking conditions for low exceedance probability. Results show that the theory is appropriate to represent wave height distribution transformation over shallow foreshores or in the surf zone. Alternatively, a combination of the new model with existing state-of-the-art wave energy propagation models allows the complete definition of the wave height distribution transformation on a planar beach. 相似文献
4.
&#x;smail Hakk&#x;
zler 《Ocean Engineering》2008,35(1):17-27
The beach profile and sediment transport are very important factors in the design of coastal structures, and the beach profile is mainly affected by a number of parameters, such as wave height and period, beach slope, and the material properties of the bed. In this study, considering wave height (H0=6.5, 11.5, 16, 20, 23, 26 and 30 cm), wave period (T=1.46 and 2.03 s), beach slope (m=1/10 and 1/15) and mean sediment diameter (d50=0.18, 0.26, 0.33 and 0.40 mm), an experimental investigation of coastal erosion profile (storm profile) was carried out in a wave flume using regular waves, and geometric characteristics of erosion profile were determined by the resultant erosion profile. Dimensional and non-dimensional equations were obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and were compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equations with respect to the previously developed equations. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(9):727-744
The idea of an equilibrium beach profile has been a useful concept in both theoretical and practical coastal engineering studies. In essence, the subject has thus far evolved to a choice of shape functions, which are described by a small set of parameters. Additional efforts have attempted to relate these parameters to more fundamental quantities, such as average grain size of the bottom sediment, wave environment, geometric aspects of the beach, and the like. This approach has a long history and can rightly claim a certain level of success. However, the usual collections of shape functions are well-known to have difficulties very near the shoreline, let alone on the nearshore portion of the beach. This study extends the equilibrium profile up to and somewhat past the shoreline. Three shape functions are used in conjunction with a Taylor expansion for the nearshore and above water portions of the profile. A nonlinear fitting technique is applied to estimate the model's best parameter values. Moreover, reduced versions of the proposed models can be employed for prediction based only on parameters related to sediment characteristics or wave conditions and geometry of the visible beach. The approach is compared with data from the East Coast of Australia, the East Coast of North America and the South Shore of the Mediterranean Sea. 相似文献
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The present study aims to analyze the effects of different submerged bars nourishment strategies using a 2DV process-based morphodynamical model. A two-barred beach profile typical of the French Mediterranean micro-tidal storm-dominated coastline is chosen as a reference profile. Two different kinds of modified beach profiles are considered. (i) Only the outer bar is nourished, the inner bar being unchanged (ii) both bars are nourished. Three typical wave forcing regimes are considered. The behavior of the natural profile is first investigated under the 3 wave forcing regimes. Then the behavior of the various nourished profiles is analyzed in terms of wave dynamics and bars behavior. On the basis of the model results, the outer bar only nourishment strategy appears to be preferable. 相似文献
10.
The shape parameter helps determining the shape of equilibrium beach profile in terms of offshore distance and water depth. The shape parameter therefore, should represent the effect of all the environmental factors involved in beach profile formation, such as wave climate and sediment properties. However, all the previous studies carried out to define shape parameter only consider the effects of sediment characteristics in their definitions. The aim of this study is to add the effect of wave climate also in the definition of shape parameter. This is achieved by integrating wave energy dissipation rate per unit volume at the surf zone. The result yields equilibrium wave energy dissipation rate that leads to theoretical definition of equilibrium beach profiles involving the effects of both the grain size and the wave climate parameters. It is found that the sediment grain size and the incoming wave height affect the value of shape parameter; whereas, the effects of wave period can be neglected. By means of energy equation, it is also possible to observe in macro scale the strength of wave energy on beach profile for different grain sizes. The findings also bring about the possibility of defining shape parameter such that any two arbitrary beach profiles owning the same sediment grain sizes can have the opportunity to have different beach profile formations. Finally, by adding the effect of wave height in the definition of shape parameter the graphical representation of the parameter, previously given by Moore (1982) is improved herein. 相似文献
11.
通过物理模型实验研究了海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的形成和演化过程,给出了稳定的沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的几何特征。实验中考虑了两种初始坡度(1∶20和1∶10)和不同波高的规则波和不规则波,讨论了不同初始坡度海岸上破碎波空间分布特征。结果表明,沙坝产生后存在向岸和离岸两种运动形态,但最终将停留在稳定位置。稳定的沙坝剖面对应不同初始坡度和波浪存在不同的大沙坝和小沙坝分布。沙坝剖面由长时间小波高波浪序列作用后可转化为稳定滩肩剖面,该剖面不依赖于波浪和初始坡度。实验也给出了平衡剖面与理论曲线的对比以及剖面上泥沙粒径的分布。 相似文献
12.
在波浪和水流的作用下,泥沙在不同时间尺度下的运动会引起沙滩的冲淤演变,对海岸资源有重要的影响。因此,了解沙滩季节性演变规律,并采取针对性的防护措施,是近岸沙滩亟须解决的问题。目前,现场观测是研究沙滩剖面冲淤演变的重要方法,通过沉积物组成、岸滩坡度及波浪动力的时空变化,了解沙滩剖面的变化特性,对于沙滩管理和海岸保护具有十分重要的意义。基于2017年9月—2019年11月在荣成楮岛南岸沙滩每个月采集一次的剖面数据,以及波浪动力数据,分别探究了沙滩在不同时间尺度下的变化特征,并对沙滩变化特征与波浪动力因素的相关性进行了探讨。研究发现：楮岛南岸沙滩形态变化具有较强的季节性特征,春季沙滩比较稳定;夏季沙滩受台风影响侵蚀严重,但在风暴过后的短时间内,沙滩泥沙恢复较快;冬季沙滩恢复速度逐渐减缓并趋于稳定。在夏季和冬季期间,波能流密度的向岸分量对楮岛南沙滩的演变产生重要作用,而且波能流密度向岸分量的均值（选取数据采集前15 d的波浪条件参与计算）与沙滩体积的相关性最好,并给出了两者的线性拟合公式。 相似文献
13.
If wave energy is to become a fully-fledged renewable, its environmental impacts must be fully understood. The objective of the present work is to examine the impact of a wave farm on the beach profile through a case study. The methodology is based on two coupled numerical models: a nearshore wave propagation model and a morphodynamic model, which are run in two scenarios, both with and without the wave farm. Wave data from a nearby coastal buoy are used to prescribe the boundary conditions. A positive effect on the wave climate, the cross-shore sediment transport and, consequently, the evolution of the beach profile itself due to the presence of the wave farm was found. The wave farm leads to a reduction in the erosion of the beach face. This work constitutes the first stage of the investigation of the effectiveness of a wave farm as a coastal defence measure, and the accuracy of the quantification of the erosion reduction will be enhanced in future research. In any case, the overarching picture that emerges is that wave farms, in addition to providing carbon-free energy, can be used as elements of a coastal defence scheme. 相似文献
14.
The concept of equilibrium plan form and equilibrium profile has been widely used as an engineering tool in order to design beach nourishment projects. The scope of this paper is to further explore this “equilibrium beach” concept in crenulated bays, as a long-term tool for beach nourishment projects. The proposed methodology is based on González and Medina (2001) and combines the static equilibrium plan and profile for long-term analysis. This methodology includes a modified equilibrium plan form, which is able to define the orientation of the local wave front in the diffracting point, and also to locate the downcoast starting point of the static equilibrium beach from which the parabolic plan form of Hsu and Evans (1989) is valid. This methodology permits the application of any equilibrium profile formulation. An example of the application of this methodology and long-term formulations to the design of the Spanish nourishment project of Poniente Beach (Gijón) is presented. Ten years after its construction, the beach has still got a static equilibrium and remains pretty close to the predicted equilibrium beach in plan and profile. 相似文献
15.
The physical impact of offshore dredging on the reclamation area at the Changhwa coast, Taiwan, is investigated using a three-dimensional movable-bed model test. A distorted modeling law consisting of maintaining similarity of the equilibrium beach profile between the model and prototype is proposed. The geometric distortion was verified through a series of preliminary experiments conducted in a wave flume. Experimental results show that the distorted modeling is able to reproduce the beach-face slope in nature. An appropriate long-term morphological time-scale was determined based on a comparison of model longshore littoral transport rates and equivalent prototype values. Seabed topographical changes before and after offshore dredging are evaluated in model tests. A suitable countermeasure to prevent beach erosion from wave attack along the reclamation area is suggested from the experimental results. 相似文献
16.
The sediment transport parameter helps determining the amount of sediment transport in cross-shore direction. The sediment transport parameter therefore, should represent the effect of necessary environmental factors involved in cross-shore beach profile formation. However, all the previous studies carried out for defining shape parameter consider the parameter as a calibration value. The aim of this study is to add the effect of wave climate and grain size characteristics in the definition of transport rate parameter and thus witness their influence on the parameter. This is achieved by taking the difference in between “the equilibrium wave energy dissipation rate” and “the wave energy dissipation rate” to generate a definition for the bulk of sediment, dislocating within a given time interval until the beach tends reach an equilibrium conditions. The result yields that empirical definition of transport rate parameter primarily governs the time response of the beach profile. Smaller transport rate value gives a longer elapsed time before equilibrium is attained on the beach profile. It is shown that any significant change in sediment diameter or wave climate proportionally increases the value of the shape parameter. However, the effect of change in wave height or period on sediment transport parameter is not as credit to as mean sediment characteristics. 相似文献
17.
An artificial neural network (ANN) was applied to predict seasonal beach profile evolution at various locations along the Tremadoc Bay, eastern Irish Sea. The beach profile variations in 19 stations for a period of about 7 years were studied using ANN. The model results were compared with field data. The most critical part of constructing ANN was the selection of minimum effective input data and the choice of proper activation function. Accordingly, some numerical techniques such as principal component analysis and correlation analysis were employed to detect the proper dataset. The geometric properties of the beach, wind data, local wave climate, and the corresponding beach level changes were fed to a feedforward backpropagation ANN. The performance of less than 0.0007 (mean square error) was achieved. The trained ANN model results had very good agreement with the beach profile surveys for the test data. Results of this study show that ANN can predict seasonal beach profile changes effectively, and the ANN results are generally more accurate when compared with computationally expensive mathematical model of the same study region. The ANN model results can be improved by the addition of more data, but the applicability of this method is limited to the range of the training data. 相似文献
18.
The abandoned Yellow River Delta coast is a typical erodible silty and muddy coast in China. The paper analyses the marine dynamic characteristics and the mechanism of beach erosion of this area. Analysis and calculation show that in this sea area wave and tidal current action should be considered. Based on the above analysis, an equilibrium beach profile calculation model is developed, in which the wave-current interaction is considered while sediment supply and sediment re-deposition are neglected. The model consists of four parts: (1) calculation of wave parameters, (2) calculation of velocity due to wave-current interaction at different water depth, (3) calculation of friction velocity and shear stress at different water depths, and (4) calculation of the amount of sediment erosion, erosion intensity and variation of beach profile. Calculated results are in good agreement with observed data. Finally, the evolution tendency is discussed and the equilibrium beach profile of this coast is calculated. B 相似文献
19.
An experimental investigation of coastal erosion generated by the action of regular and irregular waves was carried out in laboratory channels. Natural beach sand, with medium diameter of 0.35 mm and specific gravity of 2.63, was used in this study. A 1:5 initial beach slope was selected for the model tests. Different wave groups were generated over the initially flat beach, and the characteristics of coastal erosion geometry such as erosion lengths, erosion depths, location of maximum erosion point, and total erosion areas were measured. The most important parameters governing coastal erosion were evaluated by using earlier investigations and experimental results. These parameters were expressed as a dimensionless group by using π theory. The empirical relationships between the geometric characteristics of coastal erosion and the dimensionless group are proposed through regression analysis for pure regular waves, pure irregular waves, and regular-irregular waves. The parameters, which were used to define geometric characteristics of coastal erosion, were evaluated and some ratios of these parameters gave a constant value. 相似文献
20.
In this article, results obtained from an experimental investigation conducted to determine the wave-induced geometric characteristics of offshore ripples and bars are presented. The experiments were performed using irregular waves. Natural beach sand was used in the study, where the mean diameter was 0.35 mm and the specific gravity was 2.63. The initial slope of the beach was 1:5. Different wave groups were generated over the initially flat beach, and a number of characteristics were determined. These include the ripple number, individual and average ripple heights, individual and average ripple lengths and the length of the offshore bar. The results of the experimental study were evaluated and empirical expressions based on the results were formulated. 相似文献