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1.
The south-western shoreline along the entrance channel inside the Port of Richards Bay has experienced continued erosion. Four groynes were constructed to stabilise the shoreline. Monitoring of shoreline evolution provided valuable data on the accretion adjacent to two of the groynes and on the sediment transport rates at these groynes. Tides, beach slopes, winds, wave climate, current regime, and sand grain sizes were documented. The one site is “moderately protected” from wave action while the other is “protected” according to the Wiegel [Wiegel, R. L. (1964). Oceanographical engineering. Prentice Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ.] classification. The shoreline accreted progressively at the two groynes at 0.065 m/day and 0.021 m/day respectively. The shorelines accreted right up to the most seaward extremity of the groynes. Equilibrium shorelines were reached within about 3.5 years to 4 years, which compare well with other sites around the world. The mean wave incidence angle is large and was found to be about 22°. The median sand grain sizes were 0.33 mm and 0.37 mm. The groynes acted as total traps, the beach surveys were extended to an adequate depth, and cross-shore sediment transport did not cause appreciable net sand losses into the entrance channel. The net longshore transport rate along the study area, which is north-westbound, is only slightly lower than the gross longshore transport. The actual net longshore transport rates are 18 000 m3/year and 4 600 m3/year respectively at the two groynes. A rocky area limits the availability of sand at one groyne. There is fair agreement between the predicted and measured longshore transport rates at the other groyne. 相似文献
2.
Erosion of the southern Gold Coast beaches (SE Queensland, Australia) was exacerbated after the extension of the Tweed River training walls in the early 1960s. To achieve the objective of restoring and maintaining beach amenity, significant nourishment works have been undertaken in Coolangatta Bay over the past 30 years. Particularly, under the Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypassing Project (TRESBP) since 1995, a number of nourishment campaigns and the implementation of a permanent sand bypass system in 2001 have resulted in significant changes of Coolangatta Bay morphology. The present case study investigates the influence of both wave climate and nourishment works on the area extending from the updrift Snapper Rocks area to downdrift Kirra Beach. SWAN spectral wave model is implemented at Coolangatta Bay area and forced by the global wave model WW3 to estimate wave forcing and the potential natural longshore drift entering in Coolangatta. Specific transects extracted from accurate bathymetric surveys are used to investigate and quantify Coolangatta Bay sedimentation for the period 1987–2005. A network of Argus video stations provides high sample rate information on the shoreline evolution. Results show that, over the past 10 years, Coolangatta Bay has infilled rapidly. Sedimentation reached up to 6 m in some areas between 1995 and 2005, with beach width increasing by 200 m at Kirra Beach. Rapid seaward shoreline migration is consistent with the intense over-pumping of sand relative to the natural potential to move sand alongshore. The nourishment strategy used during this project has successfully delivered large amounts of sand to the southern Gold Coast embayment, although it has been up to now controversial from many community perspectives. The artificial sand bypassing process proved to be much more efficient than depositing the dredged sand in the nearshore area which requires a significant period of low energy condition in order for the deposited sediment to migrate shoreward and weld to the shore. This case study confirms that, when carefully undertaken, sand bypassing is a sustainable and flexible soft engineering approach which can work in concert with natural processes. 相似文献
3.
本文设计彩沙示踪法于厦大滨海沙滩东段进行试验 ,取得了沙粒运动方向、最大运移速度、扩散范围、沿岸输沙率及粒度分异运移状态等定量数据 ,弥补了以往示踪法难以定量分析的缺陷。结果表明 :调查期间 ,厦大滨海沙滩东段沙粒运动是构成厦门岛南岸岸滩在偏东向波浪作用下形成的西南向沿岸漂沙之一个环节 :沙粒大体平行岸线向北运动 ;沙粒沿岸最大运移速度为 2 0 0m/d ;经一个潮周期 ,沙粒向两侧的最大横向扩散距离为 2 0m ,最大垂直扩散深度达 7cm ;岸滩横断面沿岸输沙率为 42 5t/d ;在该岸段沿岸漂沙中 ,粗粒沙偏向低潮带一侧 ,而细粒沙偏向高潮带。 相似文献
4.
A multiple detached breakwater system was designed to protect an extended length of shoreline in front of the presidential villa located in the Gombo region, Tuscany, Italy. The purpose of this empirical field study was to examine the impact of the surface-piercing segmented breakwater on the subaqueous morphology and to follow the effect of the breakwaters on the beach.Shoreline mapping was performed on rectified, stereo-plotted air photos and was also based on topographic field surveying. Bathymetric mapping was based on interpolation of profile lines extending to 10 m water depth.Building the breakwaters in a downstream order caused the trapping of the longshore-driven sediments mainly at the southernmost breakwaters that faced the longshore sediment supply. The longshore down-current direction controlled the hierarchy of the beach response. Two relatively coherent behavioral domains were found to exist: (1) the “permanent tombolo stage” of segments 1–3 and (2) the “no sinuosity” response of the beach opposite the northern segment no. 5. The segment no.4, in-between, did not exhibit a coherent behaviour, indicating a drastic reversal in the sedimentary regime.The three southernmost tombolos facing the longshore current became the main sediment trap, causing a lee-side erosional effect to emerge within the protection scheme of the segmented detached breakwaters. The oblique incident waves enter through the gaps and maintain in the inshore the depleted longshore drift, causing the shoreline configuration in the lee of the northern breakwaters to develop into a prograding log-spiral bay. 相似文献
5.
Balaena Bay, Wellington Harbour, New Zealand, has a small pocket beach that was covered originally by pebbles and cobbles. In February and October 1982, the beach was nourished with sandy granular gravel, the stability of which was monitored until February 1984. Although isolated from oceanic swell, the new beach readily responded to locally generated wind waves which induced both northwards and southwards longshore drift. The net effect was erosion of the southern beach, aggradation over the central beach, and minor fluctuations at the northern end. Yet despite this mobility nearly all the nourishment sediment was retained in the littoral zone. Beach volumes, calculated for each survey, varied little and sediment distribution patterns revealed negligable transport of nourishment sediment to adjacent beaches and offshore areas. Stability is further confirmed by compositional data which record no preferential loss of the sandstone, argillite, and quartz components. The only compositional changes were the incorporation into the new beach of small (< 10%) quantities of sediment derived from the old beach surface and from biogenic productivity. 相似文献
6.
The paper presents investigations of wave climate, tidal inlet hydraulics, and sand sediment bypassing at the entrance to Westport Harbour, South Island, New Zealand. The results complement and extend those of studies of bar morphologies and sediment characteristics already published. Longshore transport of about 1 × 106 m3/year is directed in a net eastward fashion across the inlet because of an in‐built misalignment of the harbour training walls. Approximately 90% of the drift is bypassed, and has been since 1921, by deflection and splitting of the main sediment streams through the inner and outer bars and a transverse channel aoross the entrance. The outer bar appears to be the submarine, downdrift extension of Carters Breach and river load appears to contribute an order of magnitude less sediment to the complex than annual littoral drift. River sediments and littoral drift are mixed off the harbour and a declining proportion over time is recirculated to cause progradation of North Beach. The tidal compartment contributes little to scour of the entrance because of the predominance of bar bypassing. Contrary to the recommendations of several past studies, it is argued that improvements in navigation depths at West‐port are more likely to be obtained through modification of the littoral drift system than they are from tidal compartment enlargement. 相似文献
7.
人类工程活动对秦皇岛海滩侵蚀及淤积的影响 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
秦皇岛地区旅游性海滩的侵蚀主要是人类所实施的以水库为主的河流水利工程而产生的海岸效应。在区域性海滩普遍遭受侵蚀状态下，沿海港口工程又通过三种不同形式第滩发育施以影响，其一是对沿岸泥沙流的拦阻，其二为在局部岸段形成完全或不完全波影区，其三为人工岬湾的形成，港工引成的海滩淤积体特征是海滩变宽、变缓及海滩砂细化。文中最后讨论了侵蚀性海滩向演化的发育空间问题。 相似文献
8.
依据地质钻探和海滩观测资料，分析了后江湾海岸在海进作用下，海岸形成海进地层层序。滨面遭受侵蚀并正在后退和变陡。晚更新统陆相杂色粘土层和砾砂层直接暴露于海底。在海域供沙不足的情况下，整个海湾的海滩被侵蚀后退，而海滩各岸段侵蚀程度存在差异。 相似文献
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10.
This paper presents a mathematical approach and numerical model that simulates beach and dune change in response to cross-shore processes of dune growth by wind and dune erosion by storms, and by gradients in longshore sand transport that will alter shoreline position. Sub-aerial transport processes are represented, whereas sub-aqueous transport is neglected. The system is tightly coupled morphologically, with the berm playing a central role. For example, the potential for sand to be transported to the dune by wind depends on berm width, and sand lost in erosion of the dune during storms can widen the berm. Morphologic equilibrium considerations are introduced to improve reliability of predictions and stability of the non-linear model. An analytical solution is given under simplification to illustrate properties of the model. Sensitivity tests with the numerical solution of the coupled equations demonstrate model performance, with one test exploring beach and dune response to potential increase in storm-wave height with global warming. Finally, the numerical model is applied to examine the consequences of groin shortening at Westhampton Beach, Long Island, New York, as an alternative for providing a sand supply to the down-drift beach. Results indicate that the sand will be released over several decades as the shoreline and dune move landward in adjustment to the new equilibrium condition with the shortened groins. 相似文献
11.
Beach-nearshore profiles combined with beach and surficial sediment samples were analyzed in conjunction with wave, current, littoral drift and sea-level data to determine the effect of bedrock on morphodynamic processes within the littoral zone of Alexandria on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt. This 14.5-km-long littoral cell is bounded by pronounced embayments and pocket beaches separated by headlands which prevent bypassing of beach sands, in effect making this cell a large, semi-closed basin. The compartmented nature of this cell acts together with the rough irregularity of the rocky seafloor to trap a thin veneer of sediment (<3 m thick), showing proportional mixing between two sedimentary provinces. A modern fine-grained sediment facies consisting of mixed carbonate/siliciclastic sand flanks most of the nearshore zone down to a depth of 8–10 m. Beyond this depth, considered to be the depth of closure, a relict late Pleistocene to mid-Holocene coarse-grained facies composed of biogenic carbonate sand is found. Along a short section of the coastline (km 3–6), the coarser sediment also occupies the nearshore zone. Over most of the study area the two sediment types are mixed in various proportions, largest mixing coinciding with poorest sorting. Profile analyses revealed seasonal changes in sediment volume along the coast which closely follow the cyclicity of seasonal changes in wave climate. The present shoreline orientation, headlands and rough, irregular rocky seabed are reflected in the erosion/accretion pattern, sediment characteristics, and the reversibility of longshore currents and littoral drift. Although there is a marked deficiency in the sediment balance, the sand budget for this cell, including artificial material (2.339*106 m3) has increased slightly by 0.041*106 m3 year–1
as a result of engineering works carried out to widen the coastal road (Corniche). In addition to the physical properties of the bedrock (degree of induration), the accelerating sea-level rise during the Holocene and human influences, the modern morphology of the coast, the erosional seabed features in the nearshore zone, and the texture of seabed sediments are all controlled by the original geometry of the coast which consisted of an elevated subaerial ridge. 相似文献
12.
Previous models of the evolution of Hurst Castle Spit over-emphasised longshore growth at the expense of other processes, particularly rise in sea-level. Initially, a Pleistocene valley system was submerged creating a tidal strait, the West Solent, between Christchurch Bay and the East Solent. This almost certainly caused a major hydrodynamic change, transforming much of Christchurch Bay and the West Solent from a low to a high tidal energy environment. Hurst Castle Spit and the Shingles Bank then began to form due to a combination of an easterly littoral drift, offshore gravel movement due to the high tidal energy, a rising sea-level, the transgression of Hurst Beach due to overwashing and the formation of recurves due to waves in the West Solent. The growth of the Shingles Bank due to offshore sediment movement from Hurst Castle Spit was of particular importance because of its influence on the wave energy along Hurst Beach. Significant local supplies of shingle in the vicinity of Hurst Castle Spit, reworked from Quatenary deposits, were also of importance. Thus, it is not a classic multi-recurved spit and the transgressive segment, Hurst Beach, has much in common with barrier coastlines.The same processes are continuing to shape Hurst Castle Spit at present, with the additional effects of human interference in the coastal sediment system. The construction of sea defences at Milford-on-Sea in the period 1936 to 1968 has modified the sediment budget and Hurst Castle Spit is experiencing a phase of rapid evolution: maximum recession rates have increased from 1.5m a−1 (1867–1968) to 3.5m a−1 (1968–1982). It is difficult to quantify the exact role of sea-level rise in the present evolution of Hurst Castle Spit.The future evolution of Hurst Castle Spit will depend largely on man. If there is no further interference, which is highly unlikely, the beach volume will continue to decline, resulting in a further increase in the rate of recession. Ultimately, a true tidal breach will probably form, marking a new phase in the evolution of Hurst Castle Spit and its environs. However, shingle renourishment, or another coastal engineering solution will probably be undertaken. The future rate of sea-level rise will have important long-term influences on all these options. 相似文献
13.
A four-year investigation of surf zone sedimentation at Presque Isle, Pennsylvania, was undertaken in preparation for the design of a segmented breakwater system. Sediment transport calculations were based on hind-cast annual wave power statistics and “calibrated” by known accretion rates at the downdrift spit terminus. 30,000 m3 of sediment reaches the peninsula annually from updrift beaches. The transport volume increases downdrift due to shoreface erosion and retreat of the peninsular neck. At the most exposed point on Presque Isle (the lighthouse) the annual transport is 209,000 m3. East of the lighthouse is a zone of net shoreface accretion as the longshore transport rate progressively decreases.
The downdrift variation in sediment supply, combined with increasing refraction and attenuation of the dominant westerly storm waves produce a systematic change in prevailing surf zone morphology. Storms produce a major longshore bar and trough along the exposed peninsular neck. The wave energy during non-storm periods is too low to significantly alter the bar which consequently becomes a permanent feature. The broad shoreface and reduced wave energy level east of the lighthouse produce a morphology characterized by large crescentic outer bars, transverse bars, and megacusps along the beach. At the sheltered and rapidly prograding eastern spit terminus the prevalent beach morphology is that of a ridge and runnel system in front of a megacuspate shore.
The morphodynamic surf zone model developed for oceanic beaches in Australia is used as a basis for interpretation of shoreface morphologic variability at Presque Isle. In spite of interference by major shoreline stabilization structures, and differences between oceanic and lake wave spectra, the nearshore bar field at Presque Isle does closely correspond to the Australian model. 相似文献
14.
Charles W. Finkl Jr. Syed M. Khalil Jeffrey L. Andrews 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2013,31(2):155-173
Erosion of sandy beaches is a worldwide problem that elicits innovative geoengineer‐ing techniques to reduce adverse impacts of shoreline retreat. Beach replenishment has emerged as the “soft”; shore‐stabilization technique of choice for mitigating beach erosion. This method of shore protection involves the addition of sand to the littoral sediment budget for sacrificial purposes. Because inland sand sources are often uneconomical or impractical to use, and known nearshore sources are limited, finding adequate quantities of suitable sand on the inner continental shelf is often vital to beach replenishment projects. The technical studies of survey and materials analysis that identify and delineate usable sand sources are sometimes almost as expensive as small‐project dredging, pumping, and placing the sand on the beach as fill. Inadequate quantity or substandard quality of shelf sand, as well as often‐prohibitive overhead expenses, thus compel shoreline managers to seek suitable sand sources offshore. In the study area off the central‐west coast of Florida, offshore potential borrow areas (PBAs) were identified on the basis of studies conducted in reconnoitory and detailed phases. Sophisticated state‐of‐the‐art equipment used in this investigation provided more detailed subbottom mapping information than is normally obtained with conventional seismic equipment. An example of sand exploration studies was incorporated in a 215‐km2 survey of offshore areas by conducting bathymetric surveys and subbottom seismic profiling, collecting jet probes, grab samples, and vibrocores, and analyzing sediment grading in subsamples from vibrocores. These combined analyses indicated that at least 8.8 ×106 m3 of sand is available in potential borrow areas from 7.0 to 12 km offshore in water depths of 8.0 to 11.5 m. In the PBAs, mean grain size of sand falls into the range 0.13–0.53 mm, sorting averages 0.65–1.31ø, and the overall silt content varies from 3.9–8.5%. High silt contents (13–19%) mapped in some areas make these sedimentary deposits unsuitable as fill for artificial beach renourishment. 相似文献
15.
A study of the East Frisian Islands has shown that the plan form of these islands can be explained by processes of inlet sediment bypassing. This island chain is located on a high wave energy, high tide range shoreline where the average deep-water significant wave height exceeds 1.0 m and the spring tidal range varies from 2.7 m at Juist to 2.9 m at Wangerooge. An abundant sediment supply and a strong eastward component of wave power (4.4 × 103 W m−1) have caused a persistent eastward growth of the barrier islands. The eastward extension of the barriers has been accommodated more by inlet narrowing, than by inlet migration.
It is estimated from morphological evidence that a minimum of 2.7 × 105 m3 of sand is delivered to the inlets each year via the easterly longshore transport system. Much of this sand ultimately bypasses the inlets in the form of large, migrating swash bars. The location where the swash bars attach to the beach is controlled by the amount of overlap of the ebb-tidal delta along the downdrift inlet shoreline. The configuration of the ebbtidal delta, in turn, is a function of inlet size and position of the main ebb channel. The swash bar welding process has caused preferential beach nourishment and historical shoreline progradation. Along the East Frisian Islands this process has produced barrier islands with humpbacked, bulbous updrift and bulbous downdrift shapes. The model of barrier island development presented in this paper not only explains well the configuration of the German barriers but also the morphology of barriers along many other mixed energy coasts. 相似文献
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17.
砾石海滩的沉积和形态动力特征 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
天然砾石海滩的物质主要来源于河流输入，海岸侵蚀，海底侵蚀，沿岸输送，人类活动及冰川搬运等，砾石海滩在地貌上表现出明显的分带性，海滩坡度的大小随物源和动力条件发生变化，砾石的磨蚀速率与岩性及周围沉积物粒度组成有关，人工砾石海滩建设可借鉴天然砾石海滩的形成和演化过程，合理地设计物质组成，砾石形状和大小，以便能更快地使人工海滩达到平衡状态并维持海滩的稳定性。 相似文献
18.
Numerical study of shoreline changes by emergency beach nourishment project at the Middle Beach of Beidaihe, China 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
ZHANG Yu HE Lulu KUANG Cuiping PAN Yi GU Jie YANG Yanxiong ZHANG Jiabo 《海洋学报(英文版)》2012,31(1):125-133
Beach nourishment is a common coastal management strategy used to protect beach from erosion along the sandy coastlines. This method has been successfully applied to an emergency project at the West Beach of Beidaihe in the summer of 2008 and the full West Beach nourishment project in 2009-2010, which is the direct base of this study. Some basic information about the emergency engineering area at the Middle Beach is firstly described. The shoreline change of this area, including the analysis of beach width in five monitoring profiles in the bathing places of Middle Beach, is then discussed. After that a numerical model based on one-line theory is established and the numerical results agree well with the measured shorelines, which indicates that the model is appropriate and is qualified to predict the shoreline change of the Middle Beach. With the same model and parameters, long-term performance of the project is predicted, and the result shows that without follow-up nourishment and project, the bathing places can remain suitable for bathing for about 10 a. It is suggested to nourish the beach in time and carry out the beach nourishment project for the full Middle Beach in Beidaihe. 相似文献
19.
Hee Jun Lee Jong-Dae Do Sun Sin Kim Won-Kyung Park Kicheon Jun 《Ocean Science Journal》2016,51(4):681-694
Haeundae Beach represents Korean pocket beaches that are currently erosional and dominated by summertime typhoons. The decadal wave characteristics 9 km offshore of Haeundae Beach were analyzed using the WAM model that was validated through the 2007 wave observations. The wave statistics modelled for 1979–2007 indicates that the seasonal mean significant wave height (H s ) is highest (0.6–0.7 m) in summer due to typhoons, in contrast to the lowest (around 0.5 m) autumn analog. The wave direction is also pronouncedly seasonal with the principal bearings of SSW and NE in the summer and winter seasons, respectively. The WAM results additionally show that the H s has gradually increased over the region of Haeundae Beach since 1993. Beach profiling during June–November 2014 shows the opposite processes of the typhoon and fair-weather on beach sands. During a typhoon, foreshore sands were eroded and then accumulated as sand bars on the surf zone. In the subsequent fair-weather, the sand bars moved back to the beach resulting in the surf-zone erosion and foreshore accretion. A total of 5 cycles of these beach-wide sand movements yielded a net retreat (up to 20 m) of the shoreline associated with large foreshore erosion. However, the surf zone only slightly accumulated as a result of the sand cycles. This was attributed to the sand escape offshore from the westernmost tip of the beach. The present study may provide an important clue to understanding the erosional processes in Haeundae Beach. 相似文献
20.
为了研究蓬莱西庄海岸侵蚀原因、揭示泥沙运移规律，利用萤光示踪砂和染色砾石进行侵蚀岸段的泥沙示踪研究．其主要结果如下：１．海滩泥沙运动完全由波浪控制，泥沙运移的速度和方向取决于破波的大小和方向．２．海滩泥沙以群体形式沿岸输移．３．在平直海岸上，泥沙可超越粘土质海蚀平台进入另一砂质海滩。 相似文献