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1.
Spatial patterns of multidecadal shoreline changes in two microtidal, low-energetic embayments of southern Zealand, Denmark, were investigated by using the directional distribution of wave energy fluxes. The sites include a barrier island system attached to moraine bluffs, and a recurved spit adjacent to a cliff coast. The barrier island system is characterized by cross-shore translation and by an alignment of the barrier alongshore alternating directions of barrier-spit progradation in a bidirectional wave field. The recurved spit adjacent to the cliff coast experienced shoreline rotation through proximal erosion and distal lateral accretion in a unidirectional wave climate. The multidecadal shoreline changes were coupled to a slope-based morphological coastal classification. All erosive shores occurred within a narrow range of onshore and offshore coastal slopes. The alongshore variability of directional distributions of wave energy fluxes furthermore outlined potential sediment sources and sinks for the evolution of the barrier island system and for the evolution of the recurved spit.  相似文献   

2.
A one-dimensional wave model was used to investigate the reef top wave dynamics across a large suite of idealized reef-lagoon profiles, representing barrier coral reef systems under different sea-level rise (SLR) scenarios. The modeling shows that the impacts of SLR vary spatially and are strongly influenced by the bathymetry of the reef and coral type. A complex response occurs for the wave orbital velocity and forces on corals, such that the changes in the wave dynamics vary reef by reef. Different wave loading regimes on massive and branching corals also leads to contrasting impacts from SLR. For many reef bathymetries, wave orbital velocities increase with SLR and cyclonic wave forces are reduced for certain coral species. These changes may be beneficial to coral health and colony resilience and imply that predicting SLR impacts on coral reefs requires careful consideration of the reef bathymetry and the mix of coral species.  相似文献   

3.
Barrier systems have received much attention along microtidal oceanic coastlines, where countless studies discuss their evolution in response to Holocene sea‐level rise, storm influence, and anthropogenic impacts. Lacustrine barrier evolution is not as well investigated and little is known about how lake‐specific hydrodynamic processes shape barrier morphology. This study evaluates the evolution of a highly dynamic barrier section along eastern Lake Ontario in the context of varying water levels and winter‐ice covers. Paleoshoreline reconstructions and volumetric analyses of nearshore sedimentation indicate the central portion of the studied North Pond barrier has been breached many times in different locations throughout the last century. Ground‐penetrating radar (GPR) data corroborate mapped locations of former inlets, bound at the surface by recurved spit and dune ridges. Subsurface structural controls on inlet position are inferred from a spatial correlation with buried incised fluvial channels, formed during a Holocene lake‐level lowstand. While subsurface controls caused two separate historical inlets to remain stationary while open, an episode of rapid inlet migration elsewhere along the barrier was facilitated by the prevailing direction of coastal currents and high lake levels, which favored overwash and rapid longshore sediment mobility across a low‐gradient barrier section. Additionally, the sudden closing of an inlet after many decades of operation coincidental with the opening of another suggestively occurred alongside unusually high lake levels. These correlations suggest the degree of coastal inundation, predominantly a function of fluctuating lake levels and antecedent topography, represent strong controls on overall barrier geomorphology over decadal timescales. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

4.
Global mean sea level is a potentially sensitive indicator of climate change. Global warming will contribute to worldwide sea-level rise (SLR) from thermal expansion of ocean water, melting of mountain glaciers and polar ice sheets. A number of studies, mostly using tide-gauge data from the Permanent Service for Mean Sea Level, Bidston Observatory, England, have obtained rates of global SLR within the last 100 years that range between 0·3 and 3 mm yr?1, with most values concentrated between 1 and 2 mm yr?1. However, the reliability of these results has been questioned because of problems with data quality and physical processes that introduce a high level of spatial and temporal variability. Sources of uncertainty in the sea-level data include variations in winds, ocean currents, river runoff, vertical earth movements, and geographically uneven distribution of long-term records. Crustal motions introduce a major source of error. To a large extent, these can be filtered by employing palaeo-sea-level proxies, and geophysical modelling to remove glacio-isostatic changes. Ultimately, satellite geodesy will help resolve the inherent ambiguity between the land and ocean level changes recorded by tide gauges. Future sea level is expected to rise by ～ 1 m, with a ‘best-guess’ value of 48 cm by the year 2100. Such rates represent an acceleration of four to seven times over present rates. Local land subsidence could substantially increase the apparent SLR. For example, Louisiana is currently experiencing SLR trends nearly 10 times the global mean rate. These recently reduced SLR estimates are based on climate models that predict a zero to negative contribution to SLR from Antarctica. Most global climate models (GCMs) indicate an ice accumulation over Antarctica, because in a warmer world, precipitation will exceed ablation/snow-melt. However, the impacts of attritional processes, such as thinning of the ice shelves, have been downplayed according to some experts. Furthermore, not all climate models are in agreement. Opposite conclusions may be drawn from the results of other GCMs. In addition, the West Antarctic Ice Sheet is potentially subject to dynamic and volcanic instabilities that are difficult to predict. Because of the great uncertainty in SLR projections, careful monitoring of future sea-level trends by upgraded tide-gauge networks and satellite geodesy will become essential. Finally, because of the high spatial variability in crustal subsidence rates, wave climates and tidal regimes, it will be the set of local conditions (especially the relative sea-level rise), rather than a single global mean sea-level trend, that will determine each locality's vulnerability to future SLR.  相似文献   

5.
This study evaluates the patterns and effects of relative sea-level rise on the tidal circulation of the basin of the Ria Formosa coastal lagoon using a process-based model that is solved on an unstructured mesh. To predict the changes in the lagoon tidal circulation in the year 2100, the model is forced by tides and a static sea level. The bathymetry and the basin geometry are updated in response to sea-level rise for three morphological response scenarios: no bed updating, barrier island rollover, and basin infilling. Model results indicate that sea-level rise (SLR) will change the baseline current velocity patterns inside the lagoon over the ~100-year study period, due to a strong reduction in the area of the intertidal basin. The basin infilling scenario is associated with the most important adjustments of the tidal circulation (i.e., increases in the flood velocities and delays in the ebb tide), together with an increase in the cumulative discharges of the tidal inlets. Under sea-level rise and in the basin infilling scenario, the salt marshes and tidal flats experience increases in the tidal range and current asymmetry. Basin infilling changes the sediment flushing capacity of the lagoon, leading to the attenuation of the flood dominance in the main inlet and the strengthening of the flood dominance in the two secondary inlets. The predictions resulting from these scenarios provide very useful information on the long-term evolution of similar coastal lagoons that experience varying degrees of SLR. This study highlights the need for research focusing on the quantification of the physical and socio-economic impacts of SLR on lagoon systems, thus enabling the development of effective adaptation strategies.  相似文献   

6.
Sea level rise (SLR) can exert significant stress on highly populated coastal societies and low-lying island countries around the world. Because of this, there is huge societal demand for improved decadal predictions and future projections of SLR, particularly on a local scale along coastlines. Regionally, sea level variations can deviate considerably from the global mean due to various geophysical processes. These include changes of ocean circulations, which partially can be attributed to natural, internal modes of variability in the complex Earth’s climate system. Anthropogenic influence may also contribute to regional sea level variations. Separating the effects of natural climate modes and anthropogenic forcing, however, remains a challenge and requires identification of the imprint of specific climate modes in observed sea level change patterns. In this paper, we review our current state of knowledge about spatial patterns of sea level variability associated with natural climate modes on interannual-to-multidecadal timescales, with particular focus on decadal-to-multidecadal variability. Relevant climate modes and our current state of understanding their associated sea level patterns and driving mechanisms are elaborated separately for the Pacific, the Indian, the Atlantic, and the Arctic and Southern Oceans. We also discuss the issues, challenges and future outlooks for understanding the regional sea level patterns associated with climate modes. Effects of these internal modes have to be taken into account in order to achieve more reliable near-term predictions and future projections of regional SLR.  相似文献   

7.
《国际泥沙研究》2021,36(6):756-769
Coastal lagoons are particularly vulnerable to climate change, in particular, Sea Level Rise (SLR) due to their shallowness. Lake Burullus provides a variety of socio-economic services as the second largest coastal lagoon in Egypt. Recently, it has experienced significant ecological deterioration. Thus, its ecosystem is fragile in the face of anthropogenic induced changes. The main objective of the current study is to investigate the climate change impacts on characteristics of Lake Burullus. A depth averaged hydro-ecological modeling system, MIKE21, was applied to develop an eco - hydrodynamic model for the lake. The developed model was calibrated and verified for two successive years: July 2011–June 2012 and July 2012–June 2013. The model simulations exhibited good agreement with the measurements during the calibration and verification processes. Six different Regional Climate Models (RCMs) were compared, using six different statistical metrics, to determine the most accurate one for the study area. The required meteorological input, including surface air temperature, precipitation, and evaporation were derived from the selected RCM. The meteorological input was extracted for two different years in the 21 st century considering one Representative Concentration Pathways (RCPs) scenario, based on the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) 5th Report. Regional SLR projections for the Mediterranean Sea for the selected RCP scenario and the two studied years were obtained. These future climate change estimates were used to modify the validated model of the lake. A sensitivity analysis was applied to assess effect of future climatic conditions and SLR, separately. The results revealed that the lake water depths will increase and it will be warmer and more saline. Significant spatial variability of the studied parameters under climate change forcing is expected. Consequently, climate change is going to restrict the lake's ability to preserve the present-day species. An urgent management plan involving adaptation works, should be implemented to reduce such potential species losses in Egyptian lagoons.  相似文献   

8.
Farewell Spit is a 25 km long barrier spit that marks the end of a littoral drift system, almost 1000 km in length that runs along South Island, New Zealand. The spit is composed of barchan dunes over 20 m high, sand sheets over 1 km wide and vegetated linear dunes. Analysis of aerial photography indicates a rapid colonization of the spit by vegetation which has expanded in area by 75% since 1950. Vegetation colonization preferentially occurs on the southern side of the spit, with its northern margin characterized by barchan dunes which migrate at rates of up to 64 m/yr. Sand sourced from longshore drift appears to be the primary source of beach sediment, which is then transported into the dune field by the persistent westerly winds of the Roaring 40s. While there has been significant dune roll‐over on the surface of the spit, its overall area has remained much the same for the past 54 years. Occasional cyclone events cause erosion, but this is balanced by aeolian sediment transport. It would appear that extension of the subaerial portion of the spit is related to the development of shells banks at its downdrift end which are periodically welded to the main spit by dune extension. Farewell Spit therefore provides an ideal example of a barrier environment where longshore sediment supply and aeolian transport dominates geomorphic evolution. This differentiates the study site from other barrier environments where overwash or tidal inlet development often characterizes recent landform evolution. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
Assawoman Inlet, Virginia, U.S.A., representative of small mesotidal barrier island tidal inlets exhibits systematic variations of sediment volume among certain of its morphologic elements. Sediment volume variations were calculated from topographic-bathymetric maps of the inlet system, as surveyed on 11 occasions at approximately monthly intervals by a fathometer, and plane table and alidade. Of 36 pairings among nine morphologic elements, seven show statistically significant Pearson Product Moment Correlation Coefficients. The southern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the southern beach face and the northern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the northern beach face on the northern spit. The southern and northern ramp margin shoals themselves are negatively correlated. The southern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the fore flood tidal delta which is negatively correlated with a tidal channel on its landward side. The back flood tidal delta is positively correlated with the northern ramp margin shoals and negatively correlated with the back side of Wallops spit. These associations may be qualitatively explained using wave and tidal climate data during the sampling year plus megaripple and bedding orientations. Constructive waves tend to transfer sediment from the ramp margin shoals landward, building up the adjacent beach faces. Destructive waves tend to move sediment back to the ramp margin shoals. Waves striking the coast obliquely promote asymmetric growth of the shoals, causing the ebb jet to erode into whichever is the smaller shoal.  相似文献   

10.
This paper presents the results of an 11-year study into mudflat elevation changes within the intertidal zone at Stert Flats in Bridgwater Bay, Somerset. This site is located in the outer Severn Estuary/inner Bristol Channel which is a macro-hypertidal regime dominated by physical processes, characterized by strong tidal currents, high turbidity and a significant degree of exposure to wind generated waves. Two transects of stakes were installed perpendicular to the coast, extending seawards 300 m from the edge of the saltmarsh onto the mudflats, against which variations in accretion or erosion could be measured. The mudflats themselves consisted of an underlying consolidated clay of Holocene age and a surface veneer of fluid mud and/or mobile sand patches which varied both spatially and temporally. Mudflat development was recorded over both short-term (monthly/seasonal) and medium-term (inter-annual) timescales. The results display a significant degree of scatter over all timescales. Such variability in response may be expected in such a dynamic system where noise can be attributed to a combination of factors such as the mobility of surface fluid mud and sand patches and the migration of the underlying ridge–runnel drainage network. Despite this, the expected short-term variations related to neap–spring tidal conditions and seasonal influences were observed at a number of locations on the transects although these were weakly expressed. The over-riding feature of the profiles is a consistent long-term trend of erosion which appears to be masking shorter term trends within the dataset. Viewed over the 11-year period, the changes in mudflat elevation closely match the pattern of the index of the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) during the 1990s, suggesting a strong climatic control over mudflat development on a medium-term/decadal scale. Most profiles display a strong erosional trend during the early 1990s when the NAO index was positive. The erosional trend peaked in 1995 at a time during which the values for monthly winter mean significant wave height were notably high. Between 1996 and 2001 the profiles generally record accretion and the data display significant variability. This corresponds with a shift to a strongly negative and then weakly positive NAO index phase. The fact that such a general atmospheric factor correlates so closely with medium timescale elevation change is attributed to relative weakness of biological binding and burrowing at this site, and more-so to the overwhelming dominance of the physical regime, especially the tidal current and the wind–wave regime. Both the background erosional trend and the influence of the index of the NAO in controlling mudflat evolution have important implications relating to coastal management. These are discussed in relation to coastal defence measures, morphological response to major civil engineering projects (e.g. Severn Tidal Power Barrage) and the prospect of climate change, sea-level rise and a possible increase in strength of NAO conditions in the future.  相似文献   

11.
The North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) is a large‐scale mode of natural climate variability governing the path of Atlantic mid‐latitude storm tracks and precipitation regimes in the Atlantic and Mediterranean sectors. The primary focus of this study is to investigate the variability of lake levels in seven lakes scattered across Turkey using the method of continuous wavelet transforms and global spectra. The long winter (December, January, February and March) lake‐level series and the NAO index (NAOI) series were subjected to wavelet transform. The global wavelet spectrum (energy spectrum of periodicities) of lake levels and winter NAOI anomalies, in most cases, revealed a significant correlation. It was shown that the Tuz, Sapanca, and Uluabat lakes reflect much stronger influences of the NAO than the other four lakes. In contrast, weak correlations were found in the coastal areas of the Mediterranean and eastern Turkey. The periodic structures of Turkish lake levels in relation to the NAO revealed a spectrum between the 1‐year and 10‐year scale level. Although the periodicities of more than 10‐year scale levels were detected, explaining significant relations between the NAO and these long‐term periodicities remains a challenging task. The results of this study are consistent with the earlier studies concerning the teleconnection between the NAO and climate variables in Turkey. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
Comparisons of maps and aerial photographs dating from the late 1700s to the present document the recent development of an 8 km2 saltmarsh that is situated behind a barrier spit in southern Maine. Tidal channels that were relatively narrow in 1794 became wider by 1872. The reduction of marsh bordering tidal channels is interpreted as evidence that marsh accretion could not keep pace with rising sea-level. This suggests that the rate of sea-level rise had increased, although a change in discharge or sediment load caused by extensive settlement and land clearance may also have been involved. Meander patterns of the tidal streams changed considerably throughout the time period covered by the maps, demonstrating that the streams of this marsh are more dynamic than some others that have been widely reported in the literature. These differences in stream dynamics are probably related to the differences in sedimentological structure of the marshes. Between 1872 and 1956 the barrier spit eroded on its inside (shoreward) edge, probably in response to the construction of riprapping and houses along the spit, and the subsequent reduction of overwash and aeolian transport of sediment. Modification of the tidal inlet and adjacent marsh during the 1960s, including jetty construction, dredging, and filling of portions of the marsh surface, affected the marsh only locally. One tidal stream has been migrating rapidly apparently in response to compaction of peat by dredge spoils and consequent local disruption of the marsh hydrology. Except for this migration, erosion of the marsh edge occurred immediately after the inlet modifications; planimetric changes in the marsh and its streams have been minor since then.  相似文献   

13.
The North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) is the prominent pattern of winter climate variability that has a strong effect on weather in the North Atlantic region and the adjacent continents. At present, uncertainty prevails as to the mechanisms controlling the variability of the NAO. It is also difficult to explain why the positive phase of the NAO has prevailed over the past 37 years (1972–2008). We found high positive correlation coefficients between geomagnetic activity (used as a measure of solar wind intensity) and the NAO indices that equal 0.76 for 1962–1994 and 0.63 for 1961–2011. Positive correlations of the distribution of surface air temperature with the NAO and similarly with geomagnetic activity occur in the Northern Hemisphere. These results encourage our search for possible causes controlling the NAO. We have found that at times of high geomagnetic activity the NAO index is positive and magnetic reconnection may enable the solar wind to initiate downward winds in the magnetosphere. Wind anomalies originate at the edge of the stratospheric polar vortex and propagate downward through the troposphere taking part in the intensification of the vortex and of the westerlies. Stronger northerly winds over Greenland carry cold air southward and, together with the enhanced westerlies, advect the warm air from the Atlantic along the deep Icelandic low into Eurasia increasing temperatures there. On the other hand, at times of low geomagnetic activity, the NAO index is negative and the stratospheric polar vortex is weak. Warm air from the subtropics is carried into the Arctic and a rapid amplification of planetary waves propagating upward may cause displacement or even splitting of the weak vortex and sudden stratospheric warming. During this negative NAO phase the weakened westerlies allow more cold air to build up over North America and Eurasia.  相似文献   

14.
This study describes the formation of two successive baymouth spits systems on the south‐eastern Brazilian coast and the degradation of the first system. The study area includes the Jureia Beach spit, the deflected Ribeira de Iguape River mouth, the central Iguape sandy headland, the Icapara Inlet of the Mar Pequeno Lagoon and the northern end of the Comprida Island barrier spit. The wave and river flow patterns were combined with the coastline evolution and the alongshore migration rates deduced from satellite images. Initially, both spits showed convergent alongshore migration rates equal to or less than 83 m/yr. However, the extreme river flow due to high rainfall during a very strong El Niño event in 1983 eroded the inland side of the Jureia Beach spit, which finally retreated due to wave erosion. In 1989, a sand bank emerged in the river mouth, which attached to the central headland forming a recurved northeastward spit. In 1994, the high fluvial discharge associated with another very strong El Niño event caused the landward migration of the new spit and emersion of a second sand bank. This second sand bank merged with the Jureia Beach spit in 1997 at an alongshore migration rate of 1795.6 m/yr. Wave erosion of the central headland continued and the attached spit disappeared in 2000. In 2009, the headland erosion merged the river mouth and the Icapara Inlet, which resulted in flanking baymouth spits in a configuration that remains today. Therefore, two models for the formation of baymouth spits have been documented for wave‐dominated microtidal coasts in humid tropical regions with intense fluvial discharge. The convergent longshore migration of the spits is controlled by both the bidirectional longshore drift and the fluvial discharge, the latter eroding the fronting spit, supplying sediments and acting as a hydraulic blockage for longshore drift. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
Incised coastal gullies (ICGs) are dynamic features found at the terrestrial‐coastal interface. Their geomorphic evolution is driven by the interactions between processes of fluvial knickpoint migration and coastal cliff erosion. Under scenarios of future climate change the frequency and magnitude of the climatological drivers of both terrestrial (fluvial and hillslope) and coastal (cliff erosion) processes are likely to change, with an adjunct impact on these types of coastal features. Here we explore the response of an incised coastal gully to changes in both terrestrial and coastal climate in order to elucidate the key process interactions which drive ICG evolution. We modify an extant landscape evolution model, CHILD, to incorporate processes of soft‐cliff erosion. This modified version, termed the Coastal‐Terrestrial‐CHILD (CT‐CHILD) model, is then employed to explore the interactions between changing terrestrial and coastal driving forces on the future evolution of an ICG found on the south‐west Isle of Wight, UK. It was found that the magnitude and frequency of storm events will play a key role in determining the future trajectory of ICGs, highlighting a need to understand the role of event sequencing in future projections of landscape evolution. Furthermore, synergistic (positive) and antagonistic (negative) interactions were identified between coastal and terrestrial parameters, such as wave height intensity and precipitation duration, which act to modulate the impact of changes in any one parameter. Of note was the role played by wave height intensity in driving coastal erosion, which was found to play a more important role than sea‐level rise in determining rates of coastal erosion. This highlights the need for a greater focus on wave height in studies of soft‐cliff erosion. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
Coastal barriers are ubiquitous globally and provide a vital protective role to valuable landforms, habitats and communities located to landward. They are, however, vulnerable to extreme water levels and storm wave impacts. A detailed record of sub‐annual to annual; decadal; and centennial rates of shoreline retreat in frontages characterized by both high (> 3 m) and low (< 1 m) dunes is established for a barrier island on the UK east coast. For four storms (2006–2013) we match still water levels and peak significant wave heights against shoreline change at high levels of spatial densification. The results suggest that, at least in the short‐term, shoreline retreat, of typically 5–8 m, is primarily driven by individual events, separated by varying periods of barrier stasis. Over decadal timescales, significant inter‐decadal changes can be seen in both barrier onshore retreat rates and in barrier extension rates alongshore. Whilst the alongshore variability in barrier migration seen in the short‐term remains at the decadal scale, shoreline change at the centennial stage shows little alongshore variability between a region of barrier retreat (at 1.15 m a?1) and one of barrier extension. A data‐mining approach, synchronizing all the variables that drive shoreline change (still water level, timing of high spring tides and peak significant wave heights), is an essential requirement for validating models that predict future shoreline responses under changing sea level and storminess. © 2016 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
The role of the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) in effecting changes in winter extreme high and low waters and storm surges in UK waters has been investigated with the use of a depth-averaged tide+surge numerical model. Spatial patterns of correlation of extreme high and low waters (extreme still water sea levels) with the NAO index are similar to those of median or mean sea level studied previously. Explanations for the similarities, and for differences where they occur, are proposed. Spatial patterns of correlations of extreme high and low and median surge with the NAO index are similar to the corresponding extreme sea-level patterns. Suggestions are made as to which properties of surges (frequency, duration, magnitude) are linked most closely to NAO variability. Several climate models suggest higher (more positive) average values of NAO index during the next 100 years. However, the impact on the UK coastline in terms of increased flood risk should be low (aside from other consequences of climate change such as a global sea-level rise) if the existing relationships between extreme high waters and NAO index are maintained.  相似文献   

18.
Climate warming in the Arctic directly causes two opposite changes in Arctic coastal systems: increased melt‐water discharge through rivers induces extra influx of sediments and extended open water season increases wave impact which reworks and erodes the shores. A shoreline change analysis along the southern coast of Disko Island in western Greenland was conducted with aerial photographs and satellite images from 1964, 1985, and 2012. The decadal morphologic evolution of this 85 km section showed that large parts of the coast had undergone very limited changes. However, two deltas were highly dynamic and popped up as hotspots. The Tuapaat delta and Skansen delta showed large progradation rates (1.5 and 7 m/yr) and migration of the adjacent barriers and spits. The dynamic behavior at the delta mouths was mainly caused by classic delta channel lobe switching at one delta (Tuapaat), and by a breach of the fringing spit at the other delta (Skansen). The longshore and cross‐shore transports are responsible for reworking the sediment with a result of migrating delta mouths and adjacent subaqueous mouth bars. Seaward progradation of the deltas is limited due to the steep nature of the bathymetry in Disko Bay. Finally, a schematic conceptual overview of processes and associated morphological responses for deltas in Arctic environments is presented, including the climate drivers affecting delta evolution. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
Multiple ridges across prograding coasts may display variable geometries, commonly expressed through varying elevations. Changes in ridge elevation have been traditionally related to the occurrence of fluctuating progradation rates, which might, in turn, be driven by shifting environmental conditions. Here, we explore the geometry and growth mechanisms of multiple ridges, generated at Barreta Island (Ria Formosa, southern Portugal), as a consequence of the rapid progradation of the island over the last 70 years, following the artificial fixation of the downdrift Faro-Olhão inlet with jetties in 1955. The variability in the morphology of these features was analysed in combination with available wind and wave data, in order to better distinguish growth mechanisms and understand the main parameters determining the final geometry of the observed ridges. The results suggest that (1) most of the identified ridges fall in the beach ridge classification, as they have been mostly built by marine processes, and (2) the parameters derived from, or closely related to wave climate variability (e.g. progradation rates, storm occurrence) can jointly explain most of the observed morphological changes, while aeolian processes played a secondary role. Indeed, ridge geometry appears mainly controlled by progradation rates, with higher ridges associated with lower progradation rates. Progradation rate, in turn, is mostly related to longshore wave power, storminess, and the occurrence storm groups. Yet, the final configuration of ridges can also be affected by runup levels and onshore winds. Therefore, establishing the relation between ridge geometry and wave climate is not a straightforward task, because of the complex processes and interactions that control coastal morphodynamics. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
Climate patterns over preceding years affect seasonal water and moisture conditions. The linkage between regional climate and local hydrology is challenging due to scale differences, both spatially and temporally. In this study, variance, correlation, and singular spectrum analyses were conducted to identify multiple hydroclimatic phases during which climate teleconnection patterns were related to hydrology of a small headwater basin in Idaho, USA. Combined field observations and simulations from a physically based hydrological model were used for this purpose. Results showed statistically significant relations between climate teleconnection patterns and hydrological fluxes in the basin, and climate indices explained up to 58% of hydrological variations. Antarctic Oscillation (AAO), North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), and Pacific North America (PNA) patterns affected mountain hydrology, in that order, by decreasing annual runoff and rain on snow (ROS) runoff by 43% and 26% during a positive phase of NAO and 25% and 9% during a positive phase of PNA. AAO showed a significant association with the rainfall-to-precipitation ratio and explained 49% of its interannual variation. The runoff response was affected by the phase of climate variability indices and the legacy of past atmospheric conditions. Specifically, a switch in the phase of the teleconnection patterns of NAO and PNA caused a transition from wet to dry conditions in the basin. Positive AAO showed no relation with peak snow water equivalent and ROS runoff in the same year, but AAO in the preceding year explained 24 and 25% (p < 0.05) of their variations, suggesting that the past atmospheric patterns are equally important as the present conditions in affecting local hydrology. Areas sheltered from the wind and acted as a source for snow transport showed the lowest (40% below normal) ROS runoff generation, which was associated with positive NAO that explained 33% (p < 0.01) of its variation. The findings of this research highlighted the importance of hydroclimatic phases and multiple year variations that must be considered in hydrological forecasts, climate projections, and water resources planning.  相似文献   

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