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1.
One-Line shoreline evolution models have been used as a tool to understand and forecast long-term coastal evolution. However, in some coastal environments, where the influence of the wind is important, the limitations of existing models preclude its direct application to characterize its effect on sediment transport processes. To fill this knowledge gap, we have developed a shoreline evolution model that includes the effect of wind on longshore sediment transport and accounts for beach-dune sedimentary exchange due to aeolian transport. The model produces quantitative estimates of sediment transport and exchanges rates alongshore, easing the assessment of the role of different forcing agents in coastline evolution. The model was applied to the Ebro north hemidelta coast. The results are used to discuss the relative importance of the wind interaction in the evolution of different coastline stretches. Aeolian sand transport at Riumar Beach could cause coastal erosion. At the rectilinear coast, aeolian exchange does not seem to influence the shoreline evolution but the wind-current interaction does. The model provides valuable data when considering the approach to be taken regarding conservation measures. Alongshore aeolian sediment transport can be useful when designing and placing aeolian sediment traps. Conservation of the Ebro north hemidelta coast needs to focus on increasing the river sediment supply. The application herein presented can be regarded as a first step in understanding wave and wind coupling effects in shoreline evolution.  相似文献   

2.
Shoreline changes are largely dependent on coastal morphology. South-west coast of India is a high energy coast characterised by monsoon high waves, steep beach face and medium-sized beach sand. Waves are generally from west and west south-west during rough monsoon season and from south-west during fair weather season. Shoreline change along this coast is studied with reference to coastal morphological features. Various morphological features, modifications and chronological positions of shoreline are analysed with the information derived from multidated satellite imageries, toposheets and GPS shoreline mapping along with extended field survey. Image processing and GIS techniques have been used for the analysis of data and presentation of results. Sediment accumulation on the leeward side of artificial structures such as harbour breakwaters and groynes is used as a sediment transport indicator. Artificial structures such as seawalls, groynes and harbour breakwaters modify morphology. Shoreline south of headlands/promontories and breakwaters are stable or accreting due to net northerly longshore sediment transport while erosion tendency is observed on the north side. Lateritic cliffs fronting the sea or with seasonal beach undergo slumping and cliff edge retreat as episodic events. Spits adjoining tidal inlets are prone to shoreline variations due to oscillations of inlet mouth. Interventions in the form of inlet stabilization and construction of coastal protection structures trigger erosion along adjoining coasts. Seawalls constructed along highly eroding coasts get damaged, whereas those constructed along monsoon berm crest with frontal beaches for protection against monsoon wave attack are retained. Fishing gaps within seawalls are areas of severe temporary erosion during rough monsoon season. Accretion or erosion accompanies construction of harbour breakwaters in a stable coastal plain. Close dependence of shoreline changes on morphology necessitates detailed understanding of impacts on morphology prior to introducing any intervention in the coastal zone.  相似文献   

3.
This study examined grain‐size distributions to address questions regarding geological and oceanographic controls on island morphodynamics along one of the longest undeveloped, mixed‐energy barrier island systems in the world. In particular, statistical analyses (i.e. analysis of variance, Tukey honest significant difference multiple comparison tests, nonparametric statistics and linear regression analysis) of 230 barrier island samples from Ocean City Inlet, Maryland, to the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay and 134 nearshore samples (d ≤ 10 m) identified grain‐size trends related to the morphodynamic characteristics of these systems. In general, the Virginia barrier islands north of Wachapreague Inlet and Assateague Island form a statistically different subset of grain sizes (medium‐grained to coarse‐grained sand) from the islands south of Wachapreague Inlet (fine‐grained sand). These textural trends corroborate the Pleistocene headlands of the Delmarva coastal compartment as the sediment source and indicate that some of the coarse‐grained to medium‐grained sediment bypasses the large sinks in the net southward longshore sediment transport system (i.e. Fishing Point and Chincoteague Inlet). This research also demonstrates that the preferential accumulation of coarse‐grained to medium‐grained sand on the ebb‐tidal delta at Wachapreague Inlet probably controls the erosional morphodynamics of the islands located downdrift (south) of the inlet. These results suggest that an increase in tidal prism, set up by sea‐level rise and/or a shift in wave climate/refraction patterns, may lead to barrier island fragmentation and a runaway transgression of this predominantly natural barrier island system. Consequently, a grain analysis of major coastal compartments, across multiple driving forces, can be used to assess coastal morphodynamics and the potential impact of climate change on coastal systems.  相似文献   

4.
This study addresses gaps in understanding the relative roles of sea‐level change, coastal geomorphology and sediment availability in driving beach erosion at the scale of individual beaches. Patterns of historical shoreline change are examined for spatial relationships to geomorphology and for temporal relationships to late‐Holocene and modern sea‐level change. The study area shoreline on the north‐east coast of Oahu, Hawaii, is characterized by a series of kilometre‐long beaches with repeated headland‐embayed morphology fronted by a carbonate fringing reef. The beaches are the seaward edge of a carbonate sand‐rich coastal strand plain, a common morphological setting in tectonically stable tropical island coasts. Multiple lines of geological evidence indicate that the strand plain prograded atop a fringing reef platform during a period of late‐Holocene sea‐level fall. Analysis of historical shoreline changes indicates an overall trend of erosion (shoreline recession) along headland sections of beach and an overall trend of stable to accreting beaches along adjoining embayed sections. Eighty‐eight per cent of headland beaches eroded over the past century at an average rate of ?0·12 ± 0·03 m yr?1. In contrast, 56% of embayed beaches accreted at an average rate of 0·04 ± 0·03 m yr?1. Given over a century of global (and local) sea‐level rise, the data indicate that embayed beaches are showing remarkable resiliency. The pattern of headland beach erosion and stable to accreting embayments suggests a shift from accretion to erosion particular to the headland beaches with the initiation of modern sea‐level rise. These results emphasize the need to account for localized variations in beach erosion related to geomorphology and alongshore sediment transport in attempting to forecast future shoreline change under increasing sea‐level rise.  相似文献   

5.
The coast of Kuwait can be divided into nine intertidal geomorphological subunits, of which four are found along the northern muddy shoreline and five along the southern sandy shoreline. In the north the coast is characterized by wide intertidal mudflats, bounded landward by an extensive coastal sabkha which is partly covered by sand drifts. The upper part of the intertidal environment is covered with a mixture of aeolian sands and muddy sediments of marine origin. A number of shallow tidal channels dissect the intertidal flats and small sand bars occur near the low water line. In contrast, the southern shore is characterized by relatively steep sandy beaches fronted by narrow to moderately wide rocky intertidal platforms which are partly covered by sand, bioherms, skeletal debris and algal mats. In some areas the rocky surface is dissected by numerous small gulleys and shallow channels. Multiple sand bars lying either parallel or diagonal to the shoreline are developed near the low water line. This southern intertidal environment is bounded landward by a sandy berm and a wave-cut cliff.Ripple marks are developed almost parallel to the shoreline, showing different flow directions. Energy levels are moderate to high along the southern shore, but low along the northern shore. In the south, waves induced by winds blowing mostly from the north-east and south-east form the dominant energy source, whereas tidal and wind-driven currents are the only tangible process acting along the northern shore.  相似文献   

6.
对长江口及附近海域的16根重力柱样进行了210Pb沉积速率测试, 结合以往成果, 揭示了该区现代沉积速率分布格局, 对其控制因素以及其对认识长江入海泥沙去向的指示意义进行了探讨.沉积速率最高值分布在南支口外、杭州湾口群岛北部的前三角洲地区, 最高可达6.3m/a, 总体上在3cm/a以上; 次高值分布在杭州湾北部, 约1.7~3.0cm/a, 南部略低, 约0.4~1.0cm/a; 长江口水下负地形北部海域存在小片沉积速率较高的区域, 最高值达2.58cm/a; 低值主要分布在苏北辐射沙洲、过渡沉积区以及浅海陆架的大片区域, 基本保持在1cm/a以下.研究表明, 长江泥沙出口门后主要在水下三角洲地区进行了堆积, 其次有相当部分在涨潮流顶托下进入杭州湾, 进入杭州湾南部的泥沙又在落潮流作用下经杭州湾南侧向舟山海域方向输运; 长江入海物质向外海的扩散基本被控制在123°E以西, 苏北辐射沙洲、过渡沉积区以及浅海陆架的大片区域缺乏现代长江物质供应; 长江悬浮泥沙对研究区东北部陆架区影响较小, 废黄河口被侵蚀物质和黄海悬浮物质为其较高沉积速率的主要贡献者.   相似文献   

7.
The interaction between channel geometry, flow, sediment transport and deposition associated with a midstream island was studied in a braided to meandering reach of the Calamus River, Nebraska Sandhills. Hydraulic and sediment transport measurements were made over a large discharge range using equipment operated from catwalk bridges. The relatively low sinuosity channel on the right-hand side of the island carries over 70% of the water discharge at high flow stages and 50–60% at low flow stages. As a result, mean velocity, depth, bed shear stress and sediment transport rate tend to be greater here than in the more strongly curved left-hand channel. The loci of maximum flow velocity, depth and bed shear stress are near the centre of the channel upstream of the island, but then split and move towards the outer banks of both channels downstream. Variations in these loci depend on the flow stage. Topographically induced across-stream flows are generally stronger than the weak, curvature-induced secondary circulations. Water surface topography is controlled mainly by centrifugal accelerations and local changes in downstream flow velocity. The averaged water surface slope of the study reach varies very little with discharge, having values between 0·00075 and 0·00090. As bed shear stress generally varies in a similar way to mean velocity, friction coefficients vary little, normally being in the range 0·07–0·13. These values are similar to those in straight channels with sandy dune-covered beds. Bedload is moved mainly as dunes at all flow stages. Grain size is mainly medium sand with coarse sand moved in thalwegs adjacent to the cut banks, and with fine sand at the downstream end of the island. These patterns of flow velocity, depth, water surface topography, bed shear stress, bedload transport rate and mean grain size can be accurately predicted using theoretical models of flow, bed topography and sediment transport rate in single river bends, applied separately to the left and right channels. During high flow stages deposition occurs persistently near the downstream end of the island, and cut banks are eroded. Otherwise, erosion and deposition occurs only locally within the channel as discharge varies. Abandonment and filling of a strongly curved channel segment may occur by migration of an upstream bar into the channel entrance at a high flow stage.  相似文献   

8.
A combined field and laboratory study in northern Lake Erie has provided new insights into the origin and dynamics of heavy mineral placer deposits on beaches consisting primarily of non‐magnetic sediment. Work was conducted on the cross‐shore and longshore transport of heavy magnetic minerals using magnetic susceptibility and fluorescent paints to trace the movement, in the field, of samples of magnetic (magnetite) and non‐magnetic (quartz and calcite) grains, respectively. Laboratory experiments examined how the burial of small, dense magnetic minerals is affected by the grain size of the non‐magnetic host material, and how grain burial affects magnetic susceptibility measurements at the surface. The field experiments demonstrated that the magnetic mineral tracers were buried rapidly beneath coarser, non‐magnetic grains under low to moderate wave conditions, and subsequently were unable to move in the longshore or cross‐shore directions. The laboratory experiments showed that the magnetic susceptibility rapidly decreased with the rate and depth of burial of the magnetic minerals, and that magnetic grain burial was most effective beneath coarser rather than finer non‐magnetic sand and, for the latter sediments, under less rather than more energetic conditions. The results imply that magnetic mineral concentrations develop in this area through magnetic grain burial under fairly mild conditions, and subsequent settling, exposure and concentration in the upper swash zone during more energetic periods, when the non‐magnetic grains are eroded. It is probably during these erosional periods, when the magnetic minerals are exposed in fairly homogeneous deposits, that longshore and cross‐shore transport takes place.  相似文献   

9.
Balancing the sediment budget of the Atlantic shoreline of Long Island has proved to be problematic because more sediment has been found to be moving westward in littoral drift than was estimated to be supplied by wave erosion of the Ronkonkoma terminal moraine at Montauk Point. There is a need for the existence of an additional, possibly offshore source. As part of a larger Atlantic shore study, 11 beach samples from Fire Island were compared with samples representing the known glacial source at Montauk Point, and also with four offshore samples to the south. Comparisons were based upon quartz sand grain surface texture patterns derived by scanning electron microscope checklist analysis. Initial evidence of an offshore-onshore link was provided by qualitative results examining surface texture variability between samples, illustrated by photographic evidence and written notes. This evidence was confirmed consistently during quantitative analysis. In particular, canonical variate analysis grouped two offshore samples representing deposits of buried glacial to fluvioglacial lobes with beach samples from Fire Island in adjacent onshore locations or slightly downdrift. In addition, canonical variate analysis and factor analysis using the spssx package, together with cluster analysis using the ARTHUR package, depicted the main factors and texture variables largely responsible for sample discrimination. The significance of both the offshore-onshore link and the associated factors influencing quartz grain surface texture was revealed by the fact that they are strongly related to each other and to the regional geomorphology.  相似文献   

10.
The largest plain in the North Vietnam has formed by the redundant sediment of the Red River system. Sediment supply is not equally distributed, causing erosion in some places. The paper analyzes the evolvement and physical mechanism of the erosion. The overlay of five recent topographical maps (1930, 1965, 1985, 1995, and 2001) shows that sediment redundantly deposits at some big river mouths (Ba Lat, Lach, and Day), leading to rapid accretion (up to 100 m/y). Typical mechanism of delta propagation is forming and connecting sand bars in front of the mouths. Erosion coasts are distributed either between the river mouths (Hai Hau) or nearby them (Giao Long, Giao Phong, and Nghia Phuc). The evolvement of erosion is caused by wave-induced longshore southwestward sediment transport. Meanwhile sediment from the river mouths is not directed to deposit nearshore. The development of sand bars can intensively reduce the erosion rate nearby river mouths. Erosion in Hai Hau is accelerated by sea level rise and upstream dams. Sea dike stability is seriously threatened by erosion-induced lowering of beach profiles, sea level rise, typhoon, and storm surge.  相似文献   

11.
《China Geology》2018,1(4):512-521
Shandong has more than 70% of natural coasts are under erosion. Coastal erosion started from the 1970’s and became a very serious problem at 1990’s. The dramatic decrease of sediment supplies from rivers caused rapid erosion at the delta and estuary areas, especially in the abandoned Yellow River Delta. Most sandy coasts along the Peninsula were eroded due to lack of sand supply and interruption of alongshore sediment drift, sand dredging from the beach or the offshore area caused serious erosion during short time. Sea-level rise causes slow but constant shoreline retreats and became a more serious threat. Different types of hard solutions for coastal protection against erosion were used in Shandong. Seawalls are most widely used, especially at the Yellow River Delta and city center waterfront. Groynes, jetties and breakwater are used on the north and east sandy coast of the Peninsula. Hard approaches are effective to protect the coast erosion but not change the erosion causes and led secondary impact on the coast. Soft engineering solution or the combined solutions are taken into acts. Beach nourishment is mostly considered as the better soft solution, especially to those tourists attracting sandy beaches along the Shandong coast. Long term monitoring and continuous lessons learning from the coastal erosion management will be adaptive for better coast solution in the future.  相似文献   

12.
 Impacts on nearshore sedimentation arising from potential sea level change of the magnitude predicted in Intergovernmental Panel on Climatic Change scenarios associated with global warming are reviewed. For sandy duned coasts, the obvious sedimentation impacts include potential erosion of coastal dunes with implied deposition of the eroded material in the nearshore, possible deepening of embayments, and flooding of wetlands. For the sandy coasts a number of two-dimensional models are available for predicting shoreline change, but there are significant difficulties in applying Bruun-type models for dune erosion and assessment of sediment redistribution over the inner shelf, and for predicting the amount of shoreline retreat for a given rate of sea level rise. If the beach profile contains excessive sand relative to its equilibrium profile, sensu Dean (1991), then shoreline retreat may not occur upon sea level rise. From the evidence of Kiel Bay, at least in these semi-enclosed basin types, it is during major transgressions that maximum deposition in adjacent basins occurs, due to the sea eroding weakly consolidated and weathered surface regolith. But at the same time climatic patterns were re-adjusting and probably contributed to maximum deposition in adjacent shelf and basins below wave base. Received: 16 June 1995 / Accepted: 29 January 1996  相似文献   

13.
认识崇明东滩岸线的演变规律,对于崇明东滩湿地的保护和利用具有重要意义。利用面向对象的方法,选取1987年至2006年中的6景Landsat-5 TM卫星影像数据,解译出对应年份的东滩岸线。为了对较复杂的非平直岸线的变化进行建模,提出了基于地形梯度的正交断面方法,构建了基于图形学的分析预测模型,对岸线的演变进行分析,预测了2010年和2015年的岸线位置。结果显示：（1）崇明东滩以东南角节点为界,分为南侧的侵蚀岸段和其余的淤涨岸段,总体淤涨速率有减慢趋势,最大侵蚀速率为22.0 m/a,最大淤涨速率为247.2 m/a;（2）北侧自东旺沙水闸向东约4 km长的岸段存在明显的冲淤交替现象;（3）岸线演变受抑制区段都位于东滩两侧岛影缓流区的边界;（4）由于岸外东南侧发育有10 m深槽,除非有特殊的水动力条件出现,东滩未来的岸线将偏向东北方向演变。  相似文献   

14.
Fossil surfaces of erosion and non-deposition are common in limestone sequences from the Mesozoic in western Europe and in the Tethys and have been described under the name ‘hardgrounds’. They are of shallow water as well as of oceanic origin. A modern example in the Pacific is described in this paper. The Carnegie Ridge, an east-west trending shallow ridge between South America and the Galapagos Islands, has a central, deeper saddle where erosion has removed most of the sediment cover down to a hard chalk and chert bed (acoustic basement), and has cut intricate channel patterns on the south flank and two deep canyons on the north. The erosion has produced a karst-like relief of steep-walled channels, cliffs, and corroded chalk remnants. The floors of the channels are covered with ferromanganese oxide crusts or crust fragments over which loose sediment is being transported. In the two canyons on the north flank, this sediment consists of foraminiferal sand travelling downslope in the form of barchan dunes. All sediment down to acoustic basement has been stripped from the Carnegie Ridge crest except where it is protected behind basement ridges and pinnacles. Surface features of the eroded chalk are strongly reminiscent of features observed in Mesozoic hardgrounds. Current measurements over several days indicate a net northward movement, slow but possibly adequate to keep the sea floor free of fresh deposits. The rates, however, seem inadequate to explain the formation of the deep channels, and there is no evidence for the southward flow which is implied by the southern channel system. A process of combined carbonate dissolution and removal by the current of fresh sediment and dissolution residues can account for the required erosion in about two million years. Regional unconformities identifiable in seismic reflection profiles and dated in cores are of middle to late Pliocene age, suggesting that the formation of the erosion surface began 2-3 million years ago. Buried Miocene unconformities of local extent show that the present erosion period had minor precursors possibly related to short-lived increases in current action and carbonate dissolution.  相似文献   

15.
The upper part of the Lower Cambrian succession in northeast Kangaroo Island comprises three interbedded facies associations. The fine-grained association is composed of siltstone, mudstone and minor sandstone. It contains flat lamination and abundant ripple cross-lamination which shows bipolar palaeocurrents, and occurs in combinations of flaser bedding, lenticular bedding and wavy lamination. Although body fossils are relatively rare, trilobite traces and desiccation cracks are common, and the association is interpreted as a predominantly subtidal to intertidal deposit. The conglomerate facies association contains horizontally bedded cobble to boulder conglomerate, with subordinate trough cross-stratified coarse sandstone to granule/pebble conglomerate. Fabrics and structures in the coarse conglomerates are consistent with alluvial transport (stream and debris flow), but not beach deposition. The conglomerate association is attributed to tectonic uplift and erosion of a Precambrian-Lower Cambrian succession developed adjacent to the present north coast of Kangaroo Island. Southward progradation of an alluvial fan complex occurred across east-west oriented tidal flats on which limited wave activity reworked sand and fine gravel, but not coarser material. The sandstone facies association mainly comprises trough cross-stratified and plane-laminated sandstone, the latter with current lineation predominantly sub-parallel to the east-west shoreline. Trough cross-stratification is ascribed to onshore waves and longshore currents, and current lineation to predominantly shore-parallel tidal currents, augmented by longshore drift and storm surge. Tectonic movements gave rise to cycles of transgression and regression as tidal and alluvial processes dominated alternately.  相似文献   

16.
Islands rimming Pacific atolls typically form narrow, low‐lying lands that are commonly perceived to be particularly vulnerable to global changes such as sea‐level rise. As these, low islands form the only habitable land for many island nations, understanding the character of shorelines, and the rates and controls that operate to bring about changes, is an issue of central importance. The purpose of this study is to unravel the characteristics of coastal change on atoll islands of the Gilbert Island chain of the equatorial Pacific nation of Kiribati, especially as they relate to autogenic shoreline processes and El Niño/Southern Oscillation variability. Integration of field observations, differential global positioning system data, historical aerial photographs and ultra‐high resolution remote sensing images demonstrates the nature, spatial patterns and rates of change from 17 islands on Maiana and Aranuka atolls. The results illustrate that, between 2005 and 2009, ca 50% of the shorelines on these islands displayed a discernable shift in position; some shorelines were accretionary (at net rates up to ca 8 m year?1) and others were erosional (up to ca 18 m year?1). Long‐term net rates of change on Maiana between 1969 and 2009 were lower than short‐term net rates measured between 2005 and 2009. Both short‐term and long‐term observations illustrate some of the greatest change occur near terminations of the largest, north–south oriented islands, associated with longshore movement of coarse sand and gravel. Direct hits by tropical depressions and marked seasonality, factors interpreted as being essential in island growth and shoreline dynamics elsewhere, do not directly impact these equatorial atolls and can be eliminated as fundamental controls on shoreline dynamics. Similarly, observations over four years suggested that shoreline variability probably is not influenced directly by marked sea‐level change, although a recent increase in the rates of shoreline change could reflect instability related to the cumulative effect of a long‐term increase in the rate of sea‐level rise. Within this framework of global change, local anthropogenic effects, autogenic shoreline processes and El Niño/Southern Oscillation‐influenced wind and wave variability control many aspects of these dynamic shorelines. These results provide quantitative insights into the character and variability of rates of shoreline change, information essential for evaluating and mitigating the vulnerability of island nations such as Kiribati.  相似文献   

17.
The Mono estuary is an infilled, microtidal estuary located on the wave-dominated Bight of Benin coast which is subject to very strong eastward longshore drift. The estuarine fill comprises a thick unit of lagoonal mud deposited in a ‘central basin’between upland fluvial deposits and estuary-mouth wave-tide deposits. This lagoonal fill is capped by organic-rich tidal flat mud. In addition to tidal flat mud, the superficial facies overlying the ‘central basin’fill include remnants of spits resting on transgressive/washover sand, an estuary-mouth association of beach, shoreface, flood-tidal delta and tidal inlet deposits, and a thin sheet of fluvial sediments deposited over tidal flat mud. After an initial phase of spit intrusion over the infilled central basin east of the present Mono channel, the whole estuary mouth became bounded by a regressive barrier formed from sand supplied by the Volta Delta during the middle Holocene eustatic highstand. Barrier progradation ceased late in the Holocene following the establishment of an equilibrium plan-form shoreline alignment that allowed through-drift of Volta sand to sediment sinks further downdrift. Over the same period, accretion, from fluvially supplied sediments, of the estuarine plain close to the limit of spring high tides, or, over much of the lower valley, into a fluvial plain no longer subject to tidal flooding, induced marked meandering of the Mono and its tidal distributaries in response to confinement of much of the tidal prism to these channels. The process resulted in erosion of spit/washover and regressive barrier sand, and in reworking of the tidal flat and floodbasin deposits. The strong longshore drift, equilibrium shoreline alignment and the year-round persistence of a tidal inlet maintained by discharge from the Mono and from Lake Ahémé have resulted in a stationary barrier that is reworked by a mobile inlet. The Mono example shows that advanced estuarine infill may result in considerable facies reworking, obliteration of certain facies and marked spatial imbrication of fluvial, estuarine and wave-tide-deposited facies, and confirms patterns of sedimentary change described for microtidal estuaries on wave-influenced coasts. In addition, this study shows that local environmental factors such as sediment supply relative to limited accommodation space, and strong longshore drift, which may preclude accumulation of sediments in the vicinity of the estuary mouth, may lead to infilled equilibrium or near-equilibrium estuaries that will not necessarily evolve into deltas.  相似文献   

18.
This study evaluates the impacts resulting from the construction of two large-scale detached breakwater systems on the Nile delta coast of Egypt at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches (~18.3 km shoreline length). The two protective systems were installed in a water depth of between 3 and 4 m and consist of 17 units in total (each ~250 m long). A comprehensive monitoring program spanning the years 1990 to 2002 was implemented and included beach-nearshore profiles, grain size distribution of seabed sand and information related to the background coastal processes. Evaluation of these systems concentrates on the physical impacts on coastal morphodynamics, mitigation and their design implications. The beach and nearshore sedimentation (erosion/accretion patterns) and grain texture of seabed sediment in the study areas have been substantially disrupted due to the interruption of longshore transport by the shore-parallel detached breakwaters. Rate of shoreline and seabed changes as well as alongshore sediment volume have been substantially affected, resulting in accretion in the breakwater landward sides (tombolo or salient) followed by downdrift erosion. The preconstruction beach erosion at Baltim (–5 m/year) and at Ras El Bar (–6 m/year) has been replaced, respectively, by the formation of sand tombolo (35 m/year) and salient (9 m/year). On the other hand, beach erosion has been substantially increased in the downdrift sides of these protective systems, being –20 m/year at Baltim and –9 m/year at Ras El Bar. Further seaward, the two protective systems at Baltim and Ras El Bar have accumulated seabed sand at maximum rates of 30 and 20 cm/year and associated with downdrift erosion of –45 and –20 cm/year, respectively. Strong gyres and eddies formed in the breakwater gabs have drastically affected swimmers and subsequently caused a significant number of drownings each summer, averaging 35 and 67 victims/year at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches, respectively. This study provides baseline information needed to help implement mitigation measures for these breakwater systems.  相似文献   

19.
Beach profile data, covering the coast of Ras El Bar, northeast Nile Delta, collected during the years from 1990 to 2002 combined with landsat images for the area and sedimentological investigation have been used to identify beach and nearshore seafloor sediment changes. Along the coast of Ras El Bar, two accretion sectors and one of erosion have been recognized. The first accretion sector is located west of Damietta harbour, where the harbour jetties have halted the littoral transport, while the second one is behind a system of detached breakwaters protecting Ras El Bar resort. Both the two sectors are characterized by growing shoreline with maximum rates ∼15 and 10 m/year, respectively. Also, they have maximum nearshore seafloor accretion rates of ∼18 and 22 cm/year, respectively. The erosion sector is located east of Damietta port and has a maximum rate of shoreline retreat ∼−10 m/year. Erosion of its nearshore seafloor is indicated recording a maximum rate of ∼−20 cm/year. The rate of net sediment volume change in the area indicates shifting of the accretion sector (II) westward, responding to installation of the new breakwaters unit. The two accretion sectors are characterized by dominance of moderately sorted fine sands in their shore area which change seaward into less sorting very fine sands. Beach sands of the eroded sector are poorly sorted medium grain size. The dominant constituents of heavy mineral species in beach and sea-bottom sands are the characteristic assemblages of the Nile deposits. The sands of the eroded zone are relatively enriched in monazite, zircon, tourmaline, garnet, and rutile.  相似文献   

20.
Shoreface architecture, evolution (mid-Holocene to present) and depths of transgressive ravinement were examined from Sabine Pass, at the Texas–Louisiana border, to South Padre Island, near the Texas–Mexico border, using 30 shoreface transects. Shoreface transects extend out to 16-m water depth, each created from an echo-sounding profile and, on average, seven sediment cores. The shoreface is composed of three broad sedimentological facies: the upper shoreface, composed almost entirely of sand; the proximal lower shoreface, composed of sand with thickly to medium-bedded (50–10 cm) mud; and the distal lower shoreface, composed dominantly of mud with medium- to thinly bedded (20–3 cm) sand. Shoreface architecture and evolution is extremely variable along the Texas coast. Shoreface gradients increase from 2·25 m km–1 in east Texas to 3·50 m km–1 in south Texas. Shoreface sands coarsen towards south Texas. East and south Texas shoreface deposits are thin and retrograding whereas central Texas shoreface deposits are thicker and prograding. Central Texas is characterized by stacked shoreface successions, whereas in east Texas, lower shoreface sands are preserved only in offshore banks. Preservation of shoreface deposits is low in south Texas. Although eustatic fluctuations and accommodation space have a strong impact on overall mid-Holocene to present shoreface evolution and preservation potential, along-strike variations in sediment supply and wave energy are the main factors controlling shoreface architecture. The transgressive ravinement surface varies from –6 to –15 m along the Texas coast.  相似文献   

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