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The spectral properties of Stokes waves are shown in this paper by theoretical and numerical methods. This is done by expressing wave profiles and velocities of water particles as nonlinear combinations of the first order component of wave profiles. Under the assumption of the first order wave profiles being zero mean Gaussian processes, the relationship between autocorrelation functions of wave profiles and velocities of water particles and the first order component of wave profiles is established using the nonlinear spectral analysis. The spectral densities of nonlinear random waves, the velocities and accelerations of water particles are then obtained. Numerical computations are carried out to analyze the effect of fundamental parameters of waves. The results indicate that wave height is the most sensible parameter to the root mean squares related and wave depth is the least sensible one of all. 相似文献
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The shape of breaking waves has a significant effect on wave impact pressures on vertical sea walls. In order to refine the results of previous researchers, a systematic study of breaker shapes and wave impact pressures on a vertical wall using a newly developed experimental technique, sequential flash photography, was conducted at Queen's University of Belfast. Assumptions, like the existence of a vertical flip-through jet or a parallel face impact, could not be confirmed. The maximum pressure was found to occur for plunging breakers and at Still Water Level (SWL), although high pressures can also occur for other breaker types above or below SWL. 相似文献
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基于激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型对岛礁地形上波浪传播的数值模拟 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
为了探究激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型在模拟岛礁地形上规则波和不规则波传播的可行性,采用基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程并具有激波捕捉能力的数值模型Funwave-TVD对规则波和不规则波在岛礁地形上的传播进行了数值模拟,通过与试验数据对比,分析模型中空间步长的影响,验证模型在模拟波高、平均水位分布以及波谱空间演变的能力,结果表明:采用合适的空间步长,模型能较好地模拟规则波和不规则波在岛礁地形上的传播和演化过程。对于规则波,较小的空间步长可改善破碎点处波高峰值的预测,并能更好地预测波浪破碎后波高的空间分布,相比结合经验破碎的Boussinesq模型,Funwave-TVD能更好地模拟规则波在岛礁地形上的破碎,以及破碎以后行进涌波的再生成过程;对于不规则波,Funwave-TVD总体而言能较好地模拟涌浪有效波高、次重力波的生成及空间演化和平均水位,但会低估礁坪上次重力波波高,较粗的空间步长也会低估礁坪上涌浪有效波高。 相似文献
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应用理论推导及数值计算方法，对Stokes随机波的谱特性进行了分析。首先将波面方程，海水质点水平速度用一阶波面分量的非线性组合表示，应用平稳随机高阶短的降阶计算法则，得到了波面方程及海水质点水平速度与一阶波面分量的自相关函数之间的关系，从而确定了Stokes随机波浪的波浪谱密度及海水质点水平速度和加速度谱密度，进而求得有关波浪要素的均方根值。文章还应有数值计算方法，分析了波浪基本参数对均方根值的影响。 相似文献
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通过测试一系列不规则波工况研究了防浪建筑物存在下珊瑚礁海岸附近短波、低频长波和增水的变化规律,并对比了防浪建筑物的不同位置情况。分析结果表明：波浪在沿礁传播过程中,短波波高沿礁坪持续衰减,低频长波波高沿礁坪逐渐增大,波浪增水则沿礁坪基本保持不变;海岸附近短波随着防浪建筑物与礁缘距离的变大而减小,低频长波则在防浪建筑物处于礁坪后部时达到最大,防浪建筑物位置的变化对于礁坪波浪增水的影响可以忽略。通过理论分析证明了珊瑚礁地形上低频长波是由于群波破碎造成的破碎点移动而产生的;当特定波况作用于特定位置的防浪建筑物时,低频长波在礁坪上会发生一阶共振效应导致其能量在海岸附近达到最大值。 相似文献
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珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。 相似文献
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基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE建立了高精度二维数值波浪水槽,采用日本2011年实测真实海啸波型系统研究了海啸波在岛礁上传播变形的规律,并且分析了波高、礁坪淹没水深和礁前斜坡坡度等因素对孤立波和真实海啸传播变形的影响。结果表明,相比孤立波,类海啸波的波长明显大于孤立波波长,在测点处引起的水面变化持续时间更长,同等波高情况下真实海啸波型比孤立波能够携带更多的能量,与岛礁的相互作用也更为复杂,在礁坪上形成的淹没水深约为孤立波的两倍。礁前斜坡坡度和礁坪淹没水深均对类海啸波的反射和透射系数有显著影响。随着礁前斜坡坡度的增加,反射系数和透射系数均逐渐增加。随着礁坪淹没水深的增加,反射系数逐渐减小,而透射系数逐渐增大。但是,反射系数和透射系数均随着入射波高的增加而逐渐减小。 相似文献
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The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform. 相似文献
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Flow kinematics of focused wave groups on a plane beach in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Alistair G.L. Borthwick Alison C. Hunt Tong Feng Paul H. Taylor Peter K. Stansby 《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(12):1033-1044
Measurements are presented of the water particle kinematics of focused wave groups generated in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility. Single and repeated wave groups are considered at normal and 20° incidence to a 1:20 plane beach. The single focused wave groups model extreme transient events without the complication of reflections during the data acquisition process. A symmetry-based separation of harmonics method is used to interpret the water particle kinematics at the point of focus. Although the largest component is linear, there are also considerable second order kinematics terms (both low frequency and high frequency). Away from the free surface, the 2nd order difference contribution to the kinematics is a return current opposed to the direction of wave advance. For repeated wave groups, the measured kinematics confirms the presence of a low frequency free wave, followed by higher frequency waves of the main group and trailing higher order harmonic waves. In the breaker and surf zones, there is also evidence of the saw-tooth behaviour of broken waves, followed by scatter due to breaker-induced turbulence. Pulsatile wave breaking of repeated wave groups at oblique incidence is found to drive a longshore current. 相似文献
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This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well. 相似文献
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Li Yucheng Dong Guohai Professor Dalian University of Technology Dalian
Doctor of Engineering Lecturer Dalian University of Technology Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1993,(2)
- Experimental study and theoretical analysis show that the critical value of relative wave height (H/ d)b given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H/ L)b given by Michell and Miche can be adopted as the spilling breaking indices of regular waves. According to the same principle, a systematic theoretical analysis and experiment of irregular waves have been done by the authors in order to solve the breaking problem of irregular waves. It is indicated that the authors' method for determining wave breaking of regular waves can also be used for irregular waves. 相似文献
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在试验水池中,开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型,然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱,由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素Hm/Hs（Hm表示波列中的最大波高, Hs为有效波高）的关系进行了详细的分析,同时,对畸形波波高Hfr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析,发现峰度与畸形波要素i>Hm/Hs呈正相关, Hfr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外,水深的变化剧烈时（如斜坡、海山位置）有助于畸形波的发生。 相似文献
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LI Yucheng 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(1):59-67
—An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentleslope of 1:200.In the experiment,asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wavebreaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regu-lar waves on very mild slopes.The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influ-ence of bottom slope i,relative water depth d/L_0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regularwaves.The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, whilethe coefficient A should be 0.15.The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wavetheory is 0.74.Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after break-ing and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves. 相似文献
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The main purpose of this article is to systematically investigate the influence of offshore fringing reef topography on the infragravity-period harbor oscillations. The infragravity (IG) period oscillations inside an elongated harbor induced by normally-incident bichromatic wave groups are simulated using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model, FUNWAVE 2.0. Based on an IG wave decomposition method, effects of plane reef-face slopes, reef-face profile shapes and the existence of reef ridge on bound and free IG waves and their relative components inside the harbor are comprehensively studied. For the given harbor and reef ridge, the range of the reef-face slopes and the various profile shapes studied in this paper, results show that the amplitude of the free IG waves inside the harbor increases with the increasing of the reef-face slope; while the bound IG waves inside the harbor seem insensitive to it. The effects of the profile shapes on the IG period waves inside the harbor are closely related to the width of the reef face. The existence of the reef ridge can relieve the bound IG waves to some extent when the incident short wave amplitudes are relatively large, while its effects on the free IG waves are negligible. 相似文献
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为研究波浪聚焦特性,分析极端波浪的产生机理,采用非静压模型通过数值模拟的方法对波浪聚焦的影响因素进行了详细研究。本文采用SWASH非静压波浪模型,模型垂向均匀分三层以保证足够的色散精度以及非线性精度来高效准确的模拟波浪在变化地形上的传播。研究发现在最大波浪未发生破碎时,波浪在半圆形凸起斜坡浅滩上传播,波浪聚焦是波高增大的最主要原因。初始kR(波数与浅滩半径乘积)值对波浪在该地形上的聚焦特性有着重要影响。初始kR越大,最大波高位置距聚焦地形坡脚的距离越远。当kR在1.4π~4.05π之间时,随着kR的减小,最大相对波高先增大后减小,当kR=2.45π时,最大相对波高达到极大值,可达2.48倍初始波高。 相似文献
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Particle image velocimetry has been used to examine three-dimensional breaking wave kinematics. Two cases of wave breaking were studied. In the first case, the wave field contains a single frequency with a uniform angular spreading within a given range {{ — , .}}. The wave field of the second case consists of a number of frequencies with a uniform angular spreading applied to each frequency. In both cases, the waves are designed such that the wave energy is focused at a given point. The degree of angular spreading has been found to have great effects on the breaking characteristics and kinematics. Two types of breaker were observed, the first being plunging and the second being spilling. Increasing the angular spreading had the effect of making the velocities within the extreme waves larger. The ratio of the crest velocity to the breaking wave speed was approximately unity under both single and multiple frequency conditions, regardless of the angular spreading. 相似文献
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Experiments were performed in a wave flume to measure the intensity, transmission and reflection of waves breaking over a submerged reef with an offshore gradient of 1:10. The results demonstrate that the relative water depth over the reef crest (hc/Ho) is a dominant factor affecting the breaking characteristics. In particular it is found that as the relative crest submergence is reduced, there is a considerable increase in the intensity of wave breaking over the reef that can be quantified through measurements of the air cavity enclosed beneath the plunging jet. It is also shown that there is a corresponding decrease in wave transmission and reflection as the submergence is reduced. 相似文献
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Experimental Study on the Bed Shear Stress Under Breaking Waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The object of present study is to investigate the bed shear stress on a slope under regular breaking waves by a novel instrument named Micro-Electro-Mechanical System (MEMS) flexible hot-film shear stress sensor. The sensors were calibrated before application, and then a wave flume experiment was conducted to study the bed shear stress for the case of regular waves spilling and plunging on a 1:15 smooth PVC slope. The experiment shows that the sensor is feasible for the measurement of the bed shear stress under breaking waves. For regular incident waves, the bed shear stress is mainly periodic in both outside and inside the breaking point. The fluctuations of the bed shear stress increase significantly after waves breaking due to the turbulence and vortexes generated by breaking waves. For plunging breaker, the extreme value of the mean maximum bed shear stress appears after the plunging point, and the more violent the wave breaks, the more dramatic increase of the maximum bed shear stress will occur. For spilling breaker, the increase of the maximum bed shear stress along the slope is gradual compared with the plunging breaker. At last, an empirical equation about the relationship between the maximum bed shear stress and the surf similarity parameter is given, which can be used to estimate the maximum bed shear stress under breaking waves in practice. 相似文献