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1.
Subtidal nearshore sandbars may exhibit cyclic net offshore migration during their multi‐annual lifetime along many sandy coasts. Although this type of behavior can extend continuously for several kilometers, alongshore variations in cross‐shore bar position and bar amplitude are commonly observed. Alongshore variability is greatest when bars display km‐scale disruptions, indicative of a distinct alongshore phase shift in the bar cycle. An outer bar is then attached to an inner bar, forming a phenomenon known as a bar switch. Here, we investigate such large‐scale alongshore variability using a process‐based numerical profile model and observations at 24 transects along a 6 km section of the barred beach at Noordwijk, The Netherlands. When alongshore variability is limited, the model predicts that the bars migrate offshore at approximately the same rate (i.e. the bars remain in phase). Only under specific bar configurations with high wave‐energy levels is an increase in the alongshore variability predicted. This suggests that cross‐shore processes may trigger a switch in the case of specific antecedent morphological configurations combined with storm conditions. It is expected that three‐dimensional (3D) flow patterns augment the alongshore variability in such instances. In contrast to the observed bar behaviour, predicted bar morphologies on either side of a switch remain in different phases, even though the bars are occasionally located at a similar cross‐shore position. In short, the 1D model is not able to remove a bar switch. This data‐model mismatch suggests that 3D flow patterns are key to the dissipation of bar switches. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
Nearshore sandbars, located in <10 m water depth, can contain remarkably periodic alongshore undulations in both cross‐shore position and depth. In a double sandbar system, the alongshore spacing of these morphological patterns in the inner sandbar may be identical to those in the outer sandbar. Although this morphological coupling has been observed previously, its frequency and predominance remain unclear. In this paper, we use a 9.3‐year dataset of daily low‐tide time exposure images from the double‐barred beach at Surfers Paradise (Gold Coast, Australia) to analyse the temporal and spatial characteristics of morphological coupling within a double sandbar system. We distinguish five types of morphological coupling between the inner and outer sandbars, of which four coincide with a downstate progression of the outer bar. Coupling is either in‐phase (with a landward perturbation of the inner bar facing an outer‐bar horn) or out‐of‐phase (with a seaward perturbation of the inner bar facing an outer‐bar horn), where the coupled inner‐bar features either consist of rip channels or, predominantly, perturbations of the low‐tide terrace. Cross‐correlation of the image‐derived inner‐ and outer‐bar patterns shows coupling to be a common phenomenon in the double sandbar system studied here, with coupling in 40% of the observations. In contrast to previous observations of sandbar–shoreline coupling at single‐barred beaches, in‐phase coupling (85% of all coupled bar patterns) predominates over out‐of‐phase coupling (15%). Based on our observations and bathymetries assimilated from the images for a restricted set of coupling events, we hypothesize that the angle of offshore wave incidence, wave height and depth variations along the outer sandbar determine the type of flow pattern (cell circulations versus meandering currents) above the inner bar and hence steer the type of coupling. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
Nearshore sandbars are characteristic features of sandy surf zones and have been observed with a variety of geometries in cross-shore (e.g. location) and longshore direction (e.g. planform). Although the behaviour of sandbars has been studied extensively on spatial scales up to kilometres and timescales up to years, it remains challenging to observe and explain their behaviour on larger spatial and temporal scales, especially in locations where coastline curvature can be prominent. In this paper, we study a data set with 38 years of coastal profiles, collected with alongshore intervals of 50 m, along the 34 km-long curved sandy shoreline of Sylt island, Germany. Sylt's shoreline has an orientation difference of ~20° between the northern and southern half of the island. We found that the decadal coastal profiles on the southern half show features of a low-tide terrace and a sandbar located further from the shoreline (~441 m). On the nothern half, the sandbar was located closer to the shoreline (~267 m) and was less pronounced, while the profiles show transverse bar and rip features. The alongshore planform also differed systematically and significantly along the two island sides. The sandbar on the southern island half, with alongshore periodicity on a larger length scale (~2240 m), was coupled out-of-phase to the shoreline, while no phase coupling was observed for the sandbar with periodicity on a shorter length scale (~670 m) on the northern half. We related the observed geometric differences of the sandbars to the difference in the local wave climate along Sylt, imposed by the shoreline shape. Our observations imply that small alongshore variations in wave climate, due to the increasing shoreline curvature on larger spatial scales, can lead to significant alongshore differences in the decadal evolution of coastal profiles, sandbars and shorelines. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd  相似文献   

4.
Nearshore bars play a pivotal role in coastal behaviour, helping to protect and restore beach systems particularly in post‐storm conditions. Examination of bar behaviour under various forcing conditions is important to help understand the short‐ to medium‐term evolution of sandy beach systems. This study carried out over a nine‐week period examines, the behaviour of three intertidal bars along a high energy sandy beach system in northwest Ireland using high‐frequency topographic surveys and detailed nearshore hydrodynamic modelling. Results show that, in general, there was onshore migration for all the bars during the study period, despite the variability observed between bars, which was driven mostly by wave dominated processes. Under the prevailing conditions migration rates of up to 1.83 m day?1 and as low as 0.07 m day?1 were observed. During higher wave energy events the migration rates of the bars decelerated in their onshore route, however, under lower wave energy conditions, they quickly accelerated maintaining their shoreward migration direction. Tidal influence appears to be subordinate in these conditions, being restricted to moderating the localized wave energy at low tides and in maintaining runnel configurations providing accommodation space for advancing slip faces. The study highlights the intricate behavioural patterns of intertidal bar behaviour along a high energy sandy coastline and provides new insights into the relative importance of wave and tidal forcing on bar behaviour over a relatively short time period. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
Intertidal bars are common in mesotidal/macrotidal low-to-moderate energy coastal environments and an understanding of their morphodynamics is important from the perspective of both coastal scientists and managers. However, previous studies have typically been limited by considering bar systems two-dimensionally, or with very limited alongshore resolution. This article presents the first multi-annual study of intertidal alongshore bars and troughs in a macrotidal environment using airborne LiDAR (light detection and ranging) data to extract three-dimensional (3D) bar morphology at high resolution. Bar and trough positions are mapped along a 17.5 km stretch of coastline in the northwest of England on the eastern Irish Sea, using eight complete, and one partial, LiDAR surveys spanning 17 years. Typically, 3–4 bars are present, with significant obliquity identified in their orientation. This orientation mirrors the alignment of waves from the dominant south-westerly direction of wave approach, undergoing refraction as they approach the shoreline. Bars also become narrower and steeper as they migrate onshore, in a pattern reminiscent of wave shoaling. This suggests that the configuration of the bars is being influenced by overlying wave activity. Net onshore migration is present for the entire coastline, though rates vary alongshore, and periods of offshore migration may occur locally, with greatest variability between northern and southern regions of the coastline. This work highlights the need to consider intertidal bar systems as 3D, particularly on coastlines with complex configurations and bathymetry, as localized studies of bar migration can overlook 3D behaviour. Furthermore, the wider potential of LiDAR data in enabling high-resolution morphodynamic studies is clear, both within the coastal domain and beyond. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
This study investigates the recovery capabilities of a single-barred beach in the Pacific Mexican coast before and after the 2015–2016 El Niño winter. Concurrent hydrodynamic and morphological data collected over a 3-year period (August 2014–2017) were analysed to determine the subaerial-subtidal volumetric exchange and cross-shore subtidal sandbar migrations, in relation to the incident wave forcing. The beach presented a seasonal seaward and landward sandbar migration cycle. The sandbar migrated offshore during the energetic waves between November and February, and onshore during the milder wave period in spring, until welding to the subaerial beach around May. The transfer of sediment towards the subaerial section continued over the summer, reaching a complete recovery by September/October. Prior to El Niño, the subaerial beach successfully recovered by the end of summer 2015 through the landward sandbar migration process. The 2015–2016 energetic winter waves caused a subaerial volume loss of ~ 140 m3 m?1 (from October 2015 to March 2016), more than twice the amount eroded in the other winters, and the sandbar moved further offshore and to deeper depths (3–4 m) than the winter before. In addition, the energetic 2015–2016 winter waves lasted for 2 months longer than in other years, making the 2016 spring shorter. Consequently, during the onshore migration, the sandbar was unable of reaching shallow depths, and a large portion of sand remained in the subtidal beach. The subaerial beach recovered 60 and 65% of the loss in the 2016 and 2017 summers, respectively. It is concluded that the landward migration process of the sandbar during the spring is critical to ensure a full subaerial beach recovery over the mild wave period in summer. The recovery capabilities of the subaerial beach will depend on the cross-shore distance and depth where the sandbar is located, and on the duration of mild wave conditions required for the sandbar to migrate onshore.  相似文献   

7.
Double sandbar systems are common morphological features along sandy, wave‐dominated, micro‐ to meso‐tidal coastlines. In the companion paper, we demonstrated how various alongshore inner‐bar rip‐channel patterns can develop through morphological coupling to an alongshore‐variable outer bar. The simulated coupling patterns are, however, scarcely observed in the field. Instead, inner‐bar rip channels more often possess remarkably smaller and more variable alongshore length scales, suggesting that coupling mechanisms do not play a substantial role in the overall double‐sandbar dynamics. Here we use a numerical model to show that the relative importance of self‐organization and morphological coupling changes in favour of the latter with an increase in waterdepth variability along the outer‐bar crest. Furthermore, we find that the typical alongshore variability in inner‐bar rip‐channel scale is indicative of a mixture of self‐organization and morphological coupling rather than self‐organization alone. Morphological coupling may thus be more important to understanding and predicting the evolution of inner‐bar rip channels than previously envisaged. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley and Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

8.
Crescentic sandbars and rip channels along wave‐dominated sandy beaches are relevant to understand localized beach and dune erosion during storms. In recent years, a paradigm shift from hydrodynamic template models to self‐organization mechanisms occurred to explain the formation of these rhythmic features. In double sandbar systems, both the inner‐ and outer‐bar rip channels and crescentic planshapes are now believed to be free instabilities of the nearshore system arising through self‐organization mechanisms alone. However, the occasional occurrence of one or two inner‐bar rip channels within one outer‐bar crescent suggests a forced, morphologically coupled origin. Here we use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to show that alongshore variability in outer‐bar depth, and the relative importance of wave breaking versus wave focussing by refraction across the outer bar, is crucial to the inner‐bar rip channel development. The coupling patterns simulated by our model are similar to those observed in the field. Morphological coupling requires a template in the morphology (outer‐bar geometry) which, through the positive feedback between flow, sediment transport and the evolving morphology (that is, self‐organization) enforces the development of coupling patterns. We therefore introduce a novel mechanism that blurs the distinction between self‐organization and template mechanisms. This mechanism may also be extended to explain the dynamics of other nearshore patterns, such as beach cusps. The impact of this novel mechanism on the alongshore variability of inner‐bar rip channels is investigated in the companion paper. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley and Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
Five weeks of hourly, 10-min time-exposure video images were used to analyze the meso–macro-tidal double-barred Truc Vert Beach, SW France, under intense wave forcing. The four storms experienced, one of which with an offshore significant wave height over 8 m, induced dramatic changes in the double sandbar system. The subtidal outer bar migrated offshore rapidly (up to 30–50 m/day) and its pre-existing crescentic pattern was wiped out. The seaward-protruding parts of the outer bar barely migrated offshore during the most intense storm, whereas a landward-protruding part was shed off. Over the entire study period, the outer-bar dynamics was dominated by alongshore-averaged changes rather than alongshore non-uniform changes, while the opposite was observed for the inner bar. In addition, the outer-bar dynamics was predominantly controlled by the time-varying offshore wave conditions, whereas the inner-bar dynamics was influenced largely by the tide-range variations. Our observations put forward the key role of morphological settings (the presence of a subtidal bar and its shape) and tidal range in governing inner-bar behaviour within a double sandbar dynamics, and provide strong support for previous suggestions that sandbars cannot be studied in isolation.  相似文献   

10.
We report on a 6‐year nearshore bathymetric dataset from the Danube Delta (Romanian Black Sea coast) that comprises 16 km of erosive, stable and accumulative low‐lying micro‐tidal beaches northward of Sf. Gheorghe arm mouth. Two to three two‐dimensional longshore sandbars exhibit a net multi‐annual cyclic (2.8–5.5 years) offshore migration (20–50 m yr?1) in a similar way to other coasts worldwide. Bar morphology and behavior on the sediment‐rich accretionary (dissipative) sector differ substantially from that on the erosive (intermediate) sector. Shoreface slope is the most important factor controlling sandbar number and behavior. It determines different wave‐breaking patterns in the surf zone, translated into different offshore sediment transport and bar zone widths along the study site. Additionally, sediment availability, as a result of the distance from the arm mouth and of the long‐term evolution of the coast, controls the sandbar volume variability. These are all ultimately reflected in the variations of sandbar migration rates and cycle periods. A non‐dimensional morpho‐sedimentary parameter is finally presented, which expresses the bar system change potential as offshore sediment transport potential across the bar zone. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m3/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m3/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
Tidal inlets interrupt longshore sediment transport, thereby exerting an influence on adjacent beach morphology. To investigate the details and spatial extent of an inlet's influence, we examine beach topographic change along a 1.5 km coastal reach adjacent to Matanzas Inlet, on the Florida Atlantic coast. Analyses of beach morphology reveal a behavioral change between 0.64 and 0.86 km from the inlet channel centerline, interpreted to represent the spatial extent of inlet influence. Beyond this boundary, the beach is narrow, exhibits a statistically significant inverse correlation of shoreline position with offshore wave conditions, and has a uniform alongshore pattern in temporal behavior, as determined from empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis. On the inlet side of the boundary, the beach experiences monotonic widening (with proximity to the inlet), lacks spatial consistency in correlation between shoreline position and wave conditions, and exhibits an irregular pattern in spatial EOF modes. We augment the field observations with numerical modeling that provides calculations of wave setup and nearshore current patterns near the inlet, highlighting the effects of the ebb‐tidal delta on the assailing waves. The modeling results are verified by a natural experiment that occurred during May 2009, when a storm‐produced sedimentary mass accreted to the lower beach, then subsequently split into two oppositely directed waves of sediment that migrated away from the initial accretion site in the subsequent months. Our results suggest that the ebb‐tidal delta produces a pattern of wave setup that creates a pressure gradient driving an alongshore flow that opposes the longshore currents derived from breaking of obliquely oriented incident waves. The resulting recirculation pattern on the margin of the ebb‐tidal delta provides a mechanism through which the inlet influences adjacent barrier island beach morphology. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
Spatial patterns of multidecadal shoreline changes in two microtidal, low-energetic embayments of southern Zealand, Denmark, were investigated by using the directional distribution of wave energy fluxes. The sites include a barrier island system attached to moraine bluffs, and a recurved spit adjacent to a cliff coast. The barrier island system is characterized by cross-shore translation and by an alignment of the barrier alongshore alternating directions of barrier-spit progradation in a bidirectional wave field. The recurved spit adjacent to the cliff coast experienced shoreline rotation through proximal erosion and distal lateral accretion in a unidirectional wave climate. The multidecadal shoreline changes were coupled to a slope-based morphological coastal classification. All erosive shores occurred within a narrow range of onshore and offshore coastal slopes. The alongshore variability of directional distributions of wave energy fluxes furthermore outlined potential sediment sources and sinks for the evolution of the barrier island system and for the evolution of the recurved spit.  相似文献   

14.
A 2-year set of profile data from Ovari to Kanyakumari Beach,SE India has been analysed by using empirical orthogonal function(EOF) techniques to identify characteristic patterns of temporal and spatial variation in the sediment volume of the beaches.The results show that variation in the sediment volume of the beach is determined by interaction between the biennial and seasonal exchanges.EOF analysis the pattern of alongshore sediment exchange along the study area.The method facilitated separation of onshore-offshore and alongshore modes of sediment transfer and identification of the patterns of alongshore sediment exchange.The eigenfunction modes confirm the dominance of biennial,annual,and biannual sediment transfers occurring on study area.The sediment movement along the shoreline of study area is mainly governed by the forces associated with the incoming waves and the availability of sediments within the area.The present investigation has been made as an attempt to appreciate the sediment movement in relation to wave activity along the coast.The longshore sediment transport is intensive in the northerly direction as compared to southerly direction.The normal condition is for and to be moved annually or more frequently in the shallows and on the beach.Waves and wave-driven currents cause longshore drift of sand along the beach and offshore.  相似文献   

15.
A 9.3-year dataset of low-tide time-exposure images from Surfers Paradise, Northern Gold Coast, Australia was used to characterise the state dynamics of a double sandbar system. The morphology of the nearshore sandbars was described by means of the sequential bar state classification scheme of Wright and Short [1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology 56, 93-118]. Besides the two end members (the dissipative (D) and the reflective (R) states) and the four intermediate states (longshore bar and trough (LBT), rhythmic bar and beach (RBB), transverse bar and rip (TBR) and low tide terrace (LTT)), we identified two additional intermediate bar states. The erosive transverse bar and rip (eTBR) state related to the dominant oblique angle of wave incidence at the study site and the rhythmic low tide terrace (rLTT) related to the multiple bar setting. Using the alongshore barline variability and alongshore trough continuity as morphological indicators enabled the objective classification of the inner and outer bar states from the images. The outer bar was mostly in the TBR state and generally advanced sequentially through the states LBT-RBB-TBR-eTBR-LBT, with occasional transitions to the D state. Wave events led to abrupt state transitions of the outer bar, but, in contrast to expectations, did not necessarily correspond to upstate transitions. Instead, upstate (downstate) transitions coincided with angles of wave incidence θ larger (smaller) than 30°. The upstate TBR-eTBR-LBT sequence during high-angle events highlights the role of alongshore currents in bar straightening. The outer bar was found to govern the state of the inner bar to a large extent. Two types of inner bar behaviour were distinguished, based on the outer bar state. For intermediate outer bar states, the alongshore variability of the dominant inner rLTT state (52% in time) mainly related to that of the outer bar, implying some sort of morphological coupling. For dissipative outer bar states, however, the more upstate inner bar frequently separated from the shoreline and persistently developed rip channels as TBR became the most frequent state (60% in time).  相似文献   

16.
Sandy beaches typically have one or more shore-parallel bars with superimposed smaller-scale three-dimensional (3D) bars. Knowledge of their morphodynamic behaviour under more realistic wave conditions is limited. This study investigates the response of beaches with two shore-parallel bars to sinusoidally time-varying angles of incidence, using a non-linear morphodynamic model. Different periods and amplitudes of this sinusoidal variation are considered, as well as different time-mean wave angles. For time-invariant and normally incident waves, results show that alongshore rhythmic 3D bars form in the domains of inner and outer shore-parallel bars. The 3D bars in the inner domain are coupled at half the outer-bars wavelength. This phase coupling breaks up when the wave angle varies in time. Initially, regular 3D bars form in the inner domain (free behaviour), which become irregular when 3D bars develop in the outer domain (forced behaviour). The heights of the 3D bars oscillate with time, reaching maximum values when the forcing period is comparable to the system adjustment time scale (∼ 10–20 days). For a time-varying wave angle around an oblique mean, alongshore migrating 3D bars emerge in both inner and outer domains. In contrast, for an oblique (constant) wave angle, 3D bars only form in the inner domain and they hardly migrate alongshore. For any forcing period, the dominant response period of the oscillating bar heights is at half the forcing period when waves are (on average) normally incident, and it equals the forcing period when waves are on average obliquely incident. Compared with time-invariant angles, heights of inner and outer 3D bars are (on average) smaller and larger, respectively, when the angle varies with time, particularly for forcing periods in the order of the system adjustment time scale. Increasing the amplitude of the time-varying wave angle weakens bar growth. Explanations of these results are also provided.  相似文献   

17.
The behaviour of offshore‐directed winds over coastal dune and beach morphology was examined using a combination of modelling (3‐D computational fluid dynamics (CFD)) and field measurement. Both model simulations and field measurements showed reversal of offshore flows at the back beach and creation of an onshore sediment transport potential. The influence of flow reversals on the beach‐dune transport system and foredune growth patterns has previously received little attention. Detailed wind flow measurements were made using an extensive array of mast‐mounted, 3‐D ultrasonic anemometers (50 Hz), arranged parallel to the dominant incident wind direction. Large eddy simulation (LES) of the offshore wind flow over the dune was conducted using the open‐source CFD tool openFOAM. The computational domain included a terrain model obtained by airborne LiDAR and detailed ground DGPS measurements. The computational grid (~22 million cells) included localized mesh refinement near the complex foredune terrain to capture finer details of the dune morphology that might affect wind flows on the adjacent beach. Measured and simulated wind flow are presented and discussed. The CFD simulations offer new insights into the flow mechanics associated with offshore winds and how the terrain steering of wind flow impacts on the geomorphological behaviour of the dune system. Simulation of 3‐D wind flows over complex terrain such as dune systems, presents a valuable new tool for geomorphological research, as it enables new insights into the relationship between the wind field and the underlying topography. The results show that offshore and obliquely offshore winds result in flow reversal and onshore directed winds at distances of up to 20 m from the embryo dune toe. The potential geomorphological significance of the findings are discussed and simple calculations show that incoming offshore and obliquely offshore winds with mean velocities over 13 m s?1 and 7 m s?1, respectively, have the potential to create onshore‐directed winds at the back beach with mean velocities above 3.3 m s?1. These are above the threshold of movement for dry sand and support previous conclusions about the significance of offshore winds in dune and beach budget calculations. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×107 m3 during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.  相似文献   

19.
In this study, an intertidal bar and trough system on the beach of Noordwijk, The Netherlands was monitored over a 15‐month period in order to examine the daily to seasonal sequential cross‐shore behaviour and to establish which conditions force or interrupt this cyclic bar behaviour. The beach morphology (bars and troughs) was classified from low‐tide Argus video images based on surface composition. From the classified images, time series of the landward boundary of the bar and of the trough were extracted. The time series of the alongshore‐averaged boundary positions described sawtooth motion with a period between 1 and 4 months, comprising gradual landward migration followed by abrupt seaward shifts. The abrupt seaward shift appeared to be a morphological reset induced by storm events, which lasted at least 30 h with a large average root‐mean‐square wave height (≥2 m) and offshore surge level (≥0·5 m), and a small trough (<20 m wide) in the pre‐storm beach morphology. The time series of the boundary positions exhibited very little longer (seasonal) scale variability, but somewhat larger smaller (daily) scale variability. The bar boundary was found to be more dynamic than the trough boundary. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
Montjoly is a headland‐bound embayed sandy beach in Cayenne, French Guiana, that shows long‐term plan shape equilibrium in spite of periodic changes in accretion and erosion that alternately affect either end of the beach. These changes are caused by mud banks that move alongshore from the Amazon. The mechanisms involved in changes in the plan shape of the beach in response to the passage of one of these mud banks were monitored between 1997 and 2000 from airborne video imagery and field work. The beach longshore drift to the northwest, driven by the incident easterly to northeasterly swell usually affecting this coast, became temporarily reversed as the mud bank, migrating from east to west, initially sheltered the southeastern end of the beach. The difference in exposure to waves engendered a negative wave height gradient alongshore towards the southeast, resulting in the setting up of a cell circulation and counter‐active longshore drift from the exposed northwestern sector to the southeast. Sand eroded from the exposed sector accumulated first in the southeastern, and then the central sectors of the beach. The effect of increasing beach sheltering by the mudbank moving west is highlighted on the videographs by an ‘arrested’ pattern of beach shoreline development. The videographs show hardly any changes in beach plan shape since January 1999, due to sheltering of the beach from wave attack by the mud bank. It is expected that the eroded sector will recover in the future as the mud bank passes, leading to re‐establishment of the northwesterly sand drift. This temporally phased bi‐directional drift within the confines of the bounding headlands results in a rare example of mud‐bank‐induced beach rotation, and probably explains the long‐term equilibrium plan shape of Montjoly beach. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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