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1.
Many estuaries contain sandy beaches that provide habitats and offer protective buffers for wetlands and infrastructure, alongside cultural and recreational resources. Research underpinning coastal management tends to focus on tide- and swell-dominated sandy beaches, but little attention is given to beaches in estuaries and bays (BEBs) that exist along a continuum of wind/swell wave, tide and riverine influence. BEBs are subject to less wave energy than open coast locations because of the generally narrow window of directions for which ocean waves can propagate through the entrance. However, when storm wave direction coincides with the orientation of the estuary or bay entrance, waves can penetrate several kilometres inside. Here we focus on eight BEBs in two major bays/estuaries in Sydney, Australia and present observations from before and after a major extratropical storm with waves from an atypical direction in June 2016. We quantify magnitudes of beach erosion and recovery rates for 3 years post-storm. We show that when high-energy storm waves penetrate bays and estuaries, BEBs can undergo up to 100% of subaerial beach erosion. Three years after the storm, only 5 of the 29 (17%) eroded subaerial beach profiles had recovered to their pre-storm volume. This is likely due to the lack of low-frequency, beach-building waves at BEBs under modal weather conditions in between storms, in contrast to open coast beaches. We also show that the recovery of BEBs may be limited by the absence of adjacent sediment reservoirs due to the dominance of tidal processes mid-channel. Our study highlights the unique behaviour of BEBs relative to beaches on the open coast, and that shifting wave direction needs to be considered in long-term beach resilience under climate change. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
《Continental Shelf Research》2007,27(3-4):475-488
Across a limited depth range (5–10 m) on many continental shelves, the dominant sediment size changes from sand to mud. This important boundary, called the sand–mud transition (SMT), separates distinct benthic habitats, causes a significant change in acoustic backscatter, represents a key facies change, and delimits more surface-reactive mud from less surface-reactive sand. With the goal of improving dynamical understanding of the SMT, surficial sediments were characterized across two SMTs on the Adriatic continental shelf of Italy. Geometric mean diameter, specific surface area (SSA), mud fraction (<63 μm) and heavy metal concentrations were all measured. The SMT related to the Tronto River is identified between 15 and 20 m water depth while the SMT associated with the Pescara River varies between 15 and 25 m water depth. The sediment properties correlate with a new, process-based sedimentological parameter that quantifies the fraction of the sediment in the seabed that was delivered as flocs. These correlations suggest that floc dynamics exert strong influence over sediment textural properties and metal concentrations. Relative constancy in the depth of the SMT along this portion of the margin and its lack of evolution over a period during which sediment input to the margin has dramatically decreased suggest that on the Adriatic continental shelf energy is the dominant control on the depth of the SMT.  相似文献   

3.
There are many problems associated with beach tracing and sand provenance in coastal studies over short and long timescales. Here, an attempt has been made to trace the source sediments of the beaches along the Holderness and Humberside coastline of northeast England, between Scarborough and Mablethorpe, using rapid field and laboratory magnetic techniques. The methodology employed involves classification and modelling of sediment sources and mixtures based on their magnetic properties. Focus is given to a strong ferrimagnetic black sand (heavy mineral) which dominates the magnetic signal of the beach mixtures. Delimiting the spatial extent, quantifying and tracing of this mineral may give a good indication of wave energy and sediment movement processes along this coastline. This paper represents results obtained during a short-time-scale survey.  相似文献   

4.
Analysis of grain size statistics of upper foreshore sediments on sand beaches at two tidal inlets in New Jersey, U.S.A. reveals that sediments are coarser at beaches flanking the inlets than updrift, although sediments become finer downdrift at the broad, regional scale. The local reversal of the regional trend in size grading is attributed to: (1) the offshore diversion of the finer sands along the surf zone on the ebb tidal delta, and (2) the removal of the finer sands from the inlet flank beach caused by low wave energy conditions at low stages of the tide and by deflation. Sediments thus become coarser at inlet beaches as a result of alterations in the interaction of waves with the beach and as a result of aeolian processes, not solely as a result of increased tidal current velocities as previously reported. The distance along the New Jersey barrier islands over which inlet processes are likely to affect changes in sediment size updrift averages less than 1100 m, but the impacts of inlets on the sedimentary record can be extended greater distances as a result of inlet migration.  相似文献   

5.
The southwest coast of England was subjected to an unusually energetic sequence of Atlantic storms during the 2013/2014 winter, with the 8‐week period from mid‐December to mid‐February representing the most energetic period since at least 1953. A regional analysis of the hydrodynamic forcing and morphological response of these storms along the SW coast of England highlighted the importance of both storm‐ and site‐specific conditions. The key factor that controls the Atlantic storm wave conditions along the south coast of southwest England is the storm track. Energetic inshore wave conditions along this coast require a relatively southward storm track which enables offshore waves to propagate up the English Channel relatively unimpeded. The timing of the storm in relation to the tidal stage is also important, and coastal impacts along the macro‐tidal southwest coast of England are maximised when the peak storm waves coincide with spring high tide. The role of storm surge is limited and rarely exceeds 1 m. The geomorphic storm response along the southwest coast of England displayed considerable spatial variability; this is mainly attributed to the embayed nature of the coastline and the associated variability in coastal orientation. On west‐facing beaches typical of the north coast, the westerly Atlantic storm waves approached the coastline shore‐parallel, and the prevailing storm response was offshore sediment transport. Many of these north coast beaches experienced extensive beach and dune erosion, and some of the beaches were completely stripped of sediment, exposing a rocky shore platform. On the south coast, the westerly Atlantic storm waves refract and diffract to become southerly inshore storm waves and for the southeast‐facing beaches this results in large incident wave angles and strong eastward littoral drift. Many south coast beaches exhibited rotation, with the western part of the beaches eroding and the eastern part accreting. © 2015 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Spatio-temporal cross-shore profiles and textural characteristics are the key parameters for understanding dynamics of the inter-tidal sedimentary environment.This study describes short-term dynamics of the inter-tidal sedimentary environment at beaches along the micro-tidal coast.Further a correlation is estimated in cross-shore morphodynamics and textural characteristics of surface sediments.The sedimentary environment is examined for a complete annual cycle using monthly collected cross-shore profiles and sediment samples.The Devbag beach（northern side） and Ravindranath Tagore beach（southern side） at the Kali river mouth,Karwar,west coast of India are characterized from extremely gentle to average slope,and broadly composed of unimodal sands.The sedimentary environment is significantly composed of textures having fine to medium sand,well to moderately sorted,fine to coarse skewed,and platykurtic to leptokurtic in nature.During the annual cycle a reversal pattern is observed between the two adjacent beaches,where a slower rate of sediment accretion is observed at Devbag beach while Ravindranath Tagore beach exhibited erosion.The beach dynamics along with the propagation of south-west（SW） and south-west-west（SWW） waves towards the coast significantly exhibit a dominance of northward sediment transport with the existence of a northerly alongshore current.In addition,the study reveals that an eroded beach may not be significantly identified composed of coarse grains.The poor correlation in morpho-sedimentary characteristics reveals the prediction of grain characteristics based on beach profile and vice-versa is unrealistic.  相似文献   

7.
This paper reviews research on beach groundwater dynamics and identifies research questions which will need to be answered before swash zone sediment transport and beach profile evolution can be successfully modelled. Beach groundwater hydrodynamics are a result of combined forcing from the tide and waves at a range of frequencies, and a large number of observations exist which describe the shape and elevation of the beach watertable in response to tidal forcing at diurnal, semi-diurnal and spring-neap tidal frequencies. Models of beach watertable response to tidal forcing have been successfully validated; however, models of watertable response to wave forcing are less well developed and require verification. Improved predictions of swash zone sediment transport and beach profile evolution cannot be achieved unless the complex fluid and sediment interactions between the surface flow and the beach groundwater are better understood, particularly the sensitivity of sediment transport processes to flow perpendicular to the permeable bed.The presence of a capillary fringe, particularly when it lies just below the sand surface, has influences on beach groundwater dynamics. The presence of a capillary fringe can have a significant effect on the exchange of water between the ocean and the coastal aquifer, particularly in terms of the storage capacity of the aquifer. Field and laboratory observations have also shown that natural groundwater waves usually propagate faster and decay more slowly in aquifers with a capillary fringe, and observations which suggest that horizontal flows may also occur in the capillary zone have been reported. The effects of infiltration and exfiltration are generally invoked to explain why beaches with a low watertable tend to accrete and beaches with a high watertable tend to erode. However, the relative importance of processes such as infiltration losses in the swash, changes in the effective weight of the sediment, and modified shear stress due to boundary layer thinning, are not yet clear. Experimental work on the influence of seepage flows within sediment beds provides conflicting results concerning the effect on bed stability. Both modelling and experimental work indicates that the hydraulic conductivity of the beach is a critical parameter. However, hydraulic conductivity varies both spatially and temporally on beaches, particularly on gravel and mixed sand and gravel beaches. Another important, but poorly understood, consideration in beach groundwater studies is the role of air encapsulation during the wetting of beach sand.  相似文献   

8.
High energy, rocky coastlines often feature sandy beaches within headland‐bound embayments. Not all such embayments have beaches however, and beaches in embayments can be removed by storms and may subsequently reform. What dictates the presence or absence of an embayed beach and its resilience to storms? In this paper, we explore the effect of offshore slope and wind conditions on nearshore sediment transport within idealised embayments to give insight into nearshore sediment supplies. We use numerical simulations to show that sand can accumulate near shore if the offshore slope is >0.025 m/m, but only under persistent calm conditions. Our modelling also suggests that if sediment in an embayment with an offshore gradient steeper than 0.025 m/m is removed during a period of persistent stormy conditions, it will be unlikely to return in sub‐decadal timescales. In contrast, sediment located in embayments with shallower gradients can reform swiftly in both calm and stormy conditions. Our findings have wide implications for contemporary coastal engineering in the face of future global climate change, but also for Quaternary environmental reconstruction. Our simple method to predict beach stability based on slope can be used to interpret differing responses of embayments to periods of changing coastal storminess such as the medieval climate anomaly‐little ice age (MCA‐LIA) transition. © 2018 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
The coast of southeast Africa is dominated by sandy beaches that tend to be confined within log‐spiral or headland‐bound embayments. Investigations using serendipitous air imagery data set have been previously undertaken and conclusions drawn about the stability of the coast. We show that conclusions drawn from this data, with respect to the high water mark (HWM) position are fraught with errors, which include tidal state, pressure regime, beach slope, high‐swell erosion, seasonal and multi‐annual changes. We highlight and discuss these sources of error, together with their magnitudes. The most significant of these are the high‐swell, seasonal and multi‐annual variations. From case studies we show that the seasonal beach rotation and long‐term beach width variation are responsible for tens of metres of unaccounted HWM variation, 30 to 50 m is common, with maximums reaching 60 to 100 m. Overall the southeast African coastline appears to be in a state of long‐term dynamic equilibrium. There is no evidence of any sea‐level rise‐forced transgression in the coastal sediment budget, despite sea‐level rise (SLR). If such a signal is, in fact present, it is lost within the beach width variation. Some southeast African coastal reaches are suffering chronic erosion, but these are related to anthropogenic impacts. The extreme difficulty of placing a HWM, with any temporal validity on this coast precludes the routine use of the Bruun Rule. Although no transgressive signature is found, there is evidence of a decreasing coastal sand budget as a result of anthropogenic or natural climate change, or both. This decrease in the coastal sand volume is likely to result in increased future erosion. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
Short‐lived collapse features affecting the intertidal sandy profile were observed on mud‐rich beaches in Cayenne. They were formed in packets of beach sand accumulating over thick (several metres) fluid to under‐consolidated foreshore mud, which adjusts to this sand loading by seaward and longshore migration of fluid mud and subsequent in situ mud dewatering, thus generating subsidence and deformation of the overlying sand sheet. These sandy collapse features required active longshore sand transport and were washed out by wave processes at each rising tide. They finally disappeared permanently as adjustment of the underlying mud enabled stabilization of the beach profile. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
The characterization and beach morphodynamic differentiation along 620 km of Rio Grande do Sul state (RS) coastline has been principally done using beach profiles and their resulting morphometric parameters from the early 1990s through the present. The objective of the present work is to make a regional characterization, grouping the beaches with similar morphodynamic behavior along the RS coastline using multivariate statistical tools. For such purpose, a database containing topographic profiles and environment characteristics of 32 sites along the state coastline was built. A clustering analysis followed by a multidimensional scaling (MDS) analysis and an analysis of similarities (ANOSIM) was performed. The clustering and MDS results suggest that the data could be merged into six groups, one with dissipative tendencies, another with intermediate to reflective tendencies and three groups with intermediate characteristics. Each group showed distinct morphodynamic characteristics. Such differences are shown by the ANOSIM to be statistically significant. The three intermediate groups were differentiated in terms of beach mobility and percentage of medium-size sand, with higher mobility related to higher amounts of medium-size sand. The use of multivariate statistical techniques allowed a good differentiation between the RS beaches. Based on the results, it is suggested that the RS coastline can be segmented into seven different morphodynamic sectors. This approach can be used by management agencies to reduce potential oil spill impacts as well as decrease other beach hazards as well as for differentiate morphodynamical stages.  相似文献   

12.
A sample ord, a low section of beach characteristic of the Holderness coast, is examined as it moved southwards between 1977 and 1983 and its significant role in coast erosion is demonstrated. The reduction in beach level at the cliff foot by up to 3.9 m enabled most HWN tides to reach it, as compared with only some HWS tides along the inter-ord beach, and the volume of till eroded from the cliffs increased by eight times to an annual mean of 72m3m?1. The Holderness tills are shown to be composed of 31 per cent sand and coarser sediment which is the sediment range of the beaches. Where an ord is sited the massive injection of beach sediment goes to form the ord's most prominent constructional feature, the lower beach ridge which extends southwards from the centre of the ord. Analysis of 12 months' observer wave data collected at Withernsea in 1969/70 indicates that a net southward sand movement of 144 000 m3 occurred. Comparison of this rate with beach sediment input rates along the whole coast backed by till cliffs suggests a sediment deficit at the northern end and a surplus towards the southern end. This conclusion is supported by an overall increase in beach sediment volume southwards from Barmston. Within this longshore sediment transport system, the ords migrate southwards from their point of origin in the Barmston-Skipsea area, without losing their identity until reaching the tip of Spurn Head.  相似文献   

13.
The Atlantic coast of Galicia (NW Spain) is a high-energy environment where shingle beaches are currently developing. These coarser sediments alternate with sandy deposits which are also considered as beaches typical of a low-energy environment. The physical association of both types of sediment with contrasted sedimentary significance raises problems of interpretation. The study of four outcrops of fossil aeolianites on this coast has allowed us to reconstruct their evolution from the end of the Upper Pleistocene to the present day. Their chronology, estimated by optically stimulated luminescence between 35 and 14 ky at the end of the last glaciation (MIS2), coincides with a local sea level 120 m below the present one. This implies a coastline shifted several kilometres from its current location and the subaerial exposure of a wide strip of the continental shelf covered by sands. The wind blew sand to form dunes towards the continent, covering the coastal areas, which then emerged with no other limitation than the active river channels. Sea-level rise during the Holocene transgression has progressively swamped these aeolian deposits, leaving only flooded dunes, relict coastal dunes and climbing dunes on cliffs up to 180 m high. The aeolian process continued as long as there was a sandy source area to erode, although accretion finished when the sea reached its current level (Late Holocene). Since then, the wind turned from accretion to erosion of the dunes and sand beaches. This erosion exposes the older shingle beaches (probably of Eemian age) buried under the aeolian sands, as well as old, submerged forest remains and megalithic monuments. The destruction of sand beaches and dunes currently observed along the Galician coast is linked, according to most researchers, to anthropogenic global warming. However, their management should consider these evolutive issues.  相似文献   

14.
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m3/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m3/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
A mathematical model was used to study shore platform development. Mechanical wave erosion was dependent on such variables as tidal range, wave height and period, breaker height and depth, breaker type, surf zone width and bottom roughness, submarine gradient, rock resistance and the elevational frequency of wave action within the intertidal zone. Also included were the effects of sand and pebble accumulation, cliff height and debris mobility, and downwearing associated with tidal wetting and drying. The occurrence, location and thickness of beaches often depended on initially quite minor variations in platform morphology, but owing to their abrasive or protective effect on underlying rock surfaces, they were able to produce marked differences in platform morphology. Generalizations are difficult, but the model suggests that platform gradient increases with tidal range. Platform width also increases with tidal range with slow downwearing but it decreases with fast downwearing. Platform gradient decreases and width increases with wave energy, and decreasing rock resistance and platform roughness. With low tidal range, platform gradient is generally lower and platform width greater with beaches of fine sand than with gravel, but the relationship is more variable with a high tidal range. Platform width increases and platform gradient decreases with the rate of downwearing on bare surfaces, particularly in low tidal range environments, but the pattern is less clear on beach‐covered platforms. Platforms with large amounts of beach sediment tend to be narrower and steeper than bare platform surfaces. Platform gradient increases and platform width decreases with increasing cliff height and with decreasing cliff debris mobility. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×107 m3 during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.  相似文献   

17.
The goal of this work was to understand the main hydrodynamic processes acting on tidal flats of the coast of Amapá near the mouth of the Amazon River, and how they change over the short term (~ 20 years). The analysis of morphological and geobotanical units was carried out by applying processing and interpretation methods to optical and synthetic aperture radar (SAR) images, combined with data on water salinity, maximum flood height, sedimentary facies data, rainfall and river discharge. The temporal analysis of morphological and geobotanical units suggests the relative stabilization of savannah, ‘várzea’ and mangrove areas during the drier period and increasing tidal amplitude between 1987 to 1997. The wetter period and decreasing tidal amplitude between 1997 to 2008 led to an increase in the area of ‘várzea’ and lakes over savannah, and the expansion of mangroves mainly over the inundated field and tidal mud/mixed flats. Therefore, the decrease in rainfall index during the drier period is well‐correlated with the reduction of the Calçoene River discharge and jointly with increasing tidal amplitude favored the increase of migration rate of the mud bank and erosion profile along the littoral. It was followed by the increase of the Calçoene River discharge and jointly with decreasing tidal amplitude during the wetter period, favoring the development of mangroves on muddy substrates near the coastline. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
In November 2002, the sinking of the Prestige oil tanker off the Galician coast (N.W. Spain) caused the largest ecological catastrophe in the history of Spain, affecting the coast called the 'Costa da Morte' (Galicia, N.W. Spain). This work is focused on the study of the oil contamination of the intertidal area of two beaches located on this stretch of coast. The study of twenty cores extracted from both beaches has identified fuel embedded in the sedimentary column up to a depth of 2.38 m (this being the maximum depth of extraction). This, along with the presence of oil below the groundwater indicates the existence of a new factor which determines the burial of oil: the morphodynamic behaviour of the beach. Furthermore, this morphodynamic variation conditions the physical appearance of the buried oil. Four different types have been identified: tar-balls (cm), particles (mm), oil coatings on sediment grains and on emulsion, with distribution patterns conditioned by the degree of wave exposure. The analysis of the information obtained have permitted the development of a conceptual model of the burial and oil evolution in the sedimentary column in relation to wave exposure, and thus to the morphodynamic variability of the beach.  相似文献   

19.
The spatial distribution of polychaeta along pollution gradients often reflects different degrees of disturbance. In order to evaluate polychaeta fauna of an organically polluted tropical bay, 20 sandy beaches distributed in five areas were sampled. The relationship between community structure, slope, beach index, exposure, sediment and water quality parameters were analysed. Multivariate analysis of variance (PERMANOVA) showed differences among areas and beaches. Scolelepis chilensis dominated at mouth of bay beaches whereas Streblospio gynobranchiata and Capitella capitata complex, at inner beaches. Highest polychaete density was recorded at areas 3 and 5 with the dominance of Saccocirrus sp. and the organic indicator species C. capitata complex and Polydora sp. The most important factors obtained from canonical analysis were sorting, slope, mud and organic matter percentage. Marine biotic index (AMBI) showed that areas 3 and 5 were highly affected by anthropogenic factors, given that a poor polychaeta fauna, dominated by opportunistic species, were found. Polychaete assemblages were affected by eutrophication along an estuarine gradient as well as by morphodynamic condition of the beaches.  相似文献   

20.
Beaches of tropical island coasts exhibit high levels of diversity in composition and form in comparison with their continental counterparts. To investigate the nature and origin of this diversity, individual beach morphology and sedimentology was investigated in the British Virgin Islands (BVI), a Caribbean archipelago of > 60 high volcanic and low reef islands. The islands exhibit a diversity of orientations (some facing the Atlantic and some the Caribbean), elevation and gradient, rock type and wave energy. An examination of 100 beaches in the archipelago revealed a first-order division into sand (70 beaches) and coral rubble (30 beaches). These beaches occur in seven planform types (determined by the antecedent geological framework) and are further subdivided according to shoreface type (seagrass, sandy shoreface, or reef). Mainland-attached headland-embayment beaches are the most common form of sand beach while coral rubble beaches usually occur as barriers that enclose salt ponds and wetlands. Among sand beaches, carbonate content is greatest on Atlantic-facing beaches, and coral rubble beaches are more common on Caribbean-facing beaches. Grain size characteristics on sandy beaches are highly variable and range from fine to very coarse sands while coral rubble beaches range up to boulder-sized clasts. The local source material is a primary determinant of sediment composition. The local factors such as the underlying geology, source and availability of sediments are the primary determinants of beach form, composition and texture in the BVI. Oceanographic and climatic conditions such as the prevailing easterly trade winds and waves which seasonally range in direction from east-northeast to southeast as well as beach orientation to Atlantic- or Caribbean-facing waves also contribute to the variability, but in a secondary role. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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