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1.
Main features of sediment regime in the mouth area of the Hong Ha River (Red River), Vietnam, are discussed. As shown, the hydraulic engineering construction on the Da tributary resulted in a nearly two-fold decrease of river sediment yield. Sediment budget components at the river mouth were analyzed to establish that more than 90% of the sediment yield was detained in the delta branches and in the nearshore zone of the river mouth. Morphological processes in the Hong Ha River mouth area were characterized in detail including delta evolution during Holocene and the dynamics of its channel network, coastline, and mouth bars. Special attention was given to modern processes of delta progradation at the mouths of main branches and to wave erosion of other parts of the delta coastline. The causes for the intensification of this kind of erosion and change of the delta type in the late XX century are discussed. 相似文献
2.
J. Tinker T. O’Hare G. Masselink T. Butt P. Russell 《Continental Shelf Research》2009,29(16):1948-1960
A new field-based parameterisation (‘shape function’) describing the distribution of cross-shore suspended sediment transport across a beach profile is presented. Time-averaged and depth-integrated suspended sediment fluxes were measured over 39 tides at Sennen Cove, Cornwall, UK, for a range of wave conditions (offshore significant wave heights 0.1–2.5 m). The suspended sediment flux data were heuristically separated into four transport components: (1) mean flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (2) oscillatory flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (3) onshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone and (4) offshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone. Each of these transport components was related to the local water depth (h) normalised by the breakpoint depth (hb) and the four resulting suspended transport shape functions were combined to form a total suspended load shape function. Each shape function component is scaled independently by the wave energy level through hb. The total suspended load shape function predicts onshore sediment transport under low-energy conditions, with peaks at the breakpoint and in the swash zone, in agreement with the field observations. Under high-energy conditions the total suspended load shape function predicts onshore transport in the shoaling zone, offshore transport in the surf zone and onshore transport in the inner swash zone. 相似文献
3.
《Continental Shelf Research》2006,26(5):622-652
This paper reviews research on beach groundwater dynamics and identifies research questions which will need to be answered before swash zone sediment transport and beach profile evolution can be successfully modelled. Beach groundwater hydrodynamics are a result of combined forcing from the tide and waves at a range of frequencies, and a large number of observations exist which describe the shape and elevation of the beach watertable in response to tidal forcing at diurnal, semi-diurnal and spring-neap tidal frequencies. Models of beach watertable response to tidal forcing have been successfully validated; however, models of watertable response to wave forcing are less well developed and require verification. Improved predictions of swash zone sediment transport and beach profile evolution cannot be achieved unless the complex fluid and sediment interactions between the surface flow and the beach groundwater are better understood, particularly the sensitivity of sediment transport processes to flow perpendicular to the permeable bed.The presence of a capillary fringe, particularly when it lies just below the sand surface, has influences on beach groundwater dynamics. The presence of a capillary fringe can have a significant effect on the exchange of water between the ocean and the coastal aquifer, particularly in terms of the storage capacity of the aquifer. Field and laboratory observations have also shown that natural groundwater waves usually propagate faster and decay more slowly in aquifers with a capillary fringe, and observations which suggest that horizontal flows may also occur in the capillary zone have been reported. The effects of infiltration and exfiltration are generally invoked to explain why beaches with a low watertable tend to accrete and beaches with a high watertable tend to erode. However, the relative importance of processes such as infiltration losses in the swash, changes in the effective weight of the sediment, and modified shear stress due to boundary layer thinning, are not yet clear. Experimental work on the influence of seepage flows within sediment beds provides conflicting results concerning the effect on bed stability. Both modelling and experimental work indicates that the hydraulic conductivity of the beach is a critical parameter. However, hydraulic conductivity varies both spatially and temporally on beaches, particularly on gravel and mixed sand and gravel beaches. Another important, but poorly understood, consideration in beach groundwater studies is the role of air encapsulation during the wetting of beach sand. 相似文献
4.
There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in‐situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (Hs/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.2<Hs/ h<0.5) the nearshore circulation is characterized by a meandering alongshore current. As conditions became more dissipative (Hs/h>0.5), the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between the shoals before turning alongshore in the direction of wave advance outside the surf zone. The increase in wave dissipation is associated with an increase in very low frequency (VLF) variations in the current speed across the shoal and in the rip channel that caused the circulation to oscillate between an offshore and an alongshore flow. The unsteady nature of the nearshore circulation is responsible for 55% of all surf zone exits under these more dissipative conditions. In contrast, only 29% of the drifters released from the shoal exited the surf zone and bypassed the adjacent shoal with the alongshore‐meandering current. While the currents had a low velocity (maximum of ~0.4 m s‐1) and would not pose a significant hazard to the average swimmer, the results of this study suggest that the transverse bar and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low‐energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
5.
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m3/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m3/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
6.
Numerical simulation of two-phase flow for sediment transport in the inner-surf and swash zones 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
R. Bakhtyar D.A. Barry A. Yeganeh-Bakhtiary L. Li J.-Y. Parlange G.C. Sander 《Advances in water resources》2010
A two-dimensional two-phase flow framework for fluid–sediment flow simulation in the surf and swash zones was described. Propagation, breaking, uprush and backwash of waves on sloping beaches were studied numerically with an emphasis on fluid hydrodynamics and sediment transport characteristics. The model includes interactive fluid–solid forces and intergranular stresses in the moving sediment layer. In the Euler–Euler approach adopted, two phases were defined using the Navier–Stokes equations with interphase coupling for momentum conservation. The k–ε closure model and volume of fluid approach were used to describe the turbulence and tracking of the free surface, respectively. Numerical simulations explored incident wave conditions, specifically spilling and plunging breakers, on both dissipative and intermediate beaches. It was found that the spatial variation of sediment concentration in the swash zone is asymmetric, while the temporal behavior is characterized by maximum sediment concentrations at the start and end of the swash cycle. The numerical results also indicated that the maximum turbulent kinetic energy and sediment flux occurs near the wave-breaking point. These predictions are in general agreement with previous observations, while the model describes the fluid and sediment phase characteristics in much more detail than existing measurements. With direct quantifications of velocity, turbulent kinetic energy, sediment concentration and flux, the model provides a useful approach to improve mechanistic understanding of hydrodynamic and sediment transport in the nearshore zone. 相似文献
7.
M. V. Mikhailova 《Water Resources》2006,33(5):523-534
Sediment balance at river mouths—a physical basis of delta dynamics—is considered. The specific features of relationships between sediment balance components at a mouth of a river are established for a stable, rising, or dropping sea level. The development of the delta of the Chilia branch at the Danube mouth is considered as an example of delta dynamics under the conditions of a relatively stable sea level. The evolution of the Sulak delta in the Caspian Sea with a highly variable level is considered as an example of delta dynamics in the case of a considerable rise and drop of water level in the water body. The anthropogenic reduction of sediment runoff of the rivers (by a factor of two in the Danube, and by a factor of nine in the Sulak) is taken into account. The relationship between the sediment runoff of a river and the volume of the “backwater prism” that formed due to sea level rise is shown to be the key factor in the development of delta in the case of sea level rise. In the case of a drop in the sea level, the relationship between the “active” and “passive” progradation of the delta into the sea is determined by the sediment runoff of the river, the rate of sea level drop, and the bed slope in the coastal area of the nearshore zone. 相似文献
8.
Wave breaking and wave runup/rundown have a major influence on nearshore hydrodynamics, morphodynamics and beach evolution. In the case of wave breaking, there is significant mixing of air and water at the wave crest, along with relatively high kinetic energy, so prediction of the free surface is complicated. Most hydrodynamic studies of surf and swash zone are derived from single-phase flow, in which the role of air is ignored. Two-phase flow modeling, consisting of both phases of water and air, may be a good alternative numerical modeling approach for simulating nearshore hydrodynamics and, consequently, sediment transport. A two-phase flow tool can compute more realistically the shape of the free surface, while the effects of air are accounted for. This paper used models based on two-dimensional, two-phase Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations, the volume-of-fluid surface capturing technique and different turbulence closure models, i.e., k–ε, k–ω and re-normalized group (RNG). Our numerical results were compared with the available experimental data. Comparison of the employed method with a model not utilizing a two-phase flow modeling demonstrates that including the air phase leads to improvement in simulation of wave characteristics, especially in the vicinity of the breaking point. The numerical results revealed that the RNG turbulence model yielded better predictions of nearshore zone hydrodynamics, although the k–ε model also gave satisfactory predictions. The model provides new insights for the wave, turbulence and means flow structure in the surf and swash zones. 相似文献
9.
Multiple intertidal bars are common features of wave‐dominated sandy beaches, yet their short‐term (<1 month) and small‐scale (<1 km) morphology and dynamics remain poorly understood. This study describes the morphodynamics of multiple intertidal bars in North Lincolnshire, England, during single and lunar tidal cycles under two contrasting conditions – first when significant wave height was <0·5 m and second when significant wave height frequently exceeded 1 m. The relative importance of swash, surf and shoaling processes in determining morphological change was examined using detailed field observations and a numerical model. The beach featured four intertidal bars and both cross‐shore and longshore bar morphology evolved during the field investigation, particularly under medium to high wave‐energy conditions. Numerical modelling suggests shoaling processes are most common on the seaward two bars under calm wave conditions (Hs < 0·5 m) and that surf zone processes become more common during neap tides and under more energetic (Hs < 0·5 m) conditions. Surf processes dominate the inner two bars, though swash influence increases in a landward direction. The numerical modelling results combined with low tide survey data and high‐resolution morphological measurements strongly suggest changes in the intertidal bar morphology are accomplished by surf zone processes rather than by shoaling wave or swash processes. This is because shoaling waves do not induce significant sediment transport to have any morphological effect, whereas swash action generally does not have enough scope to act as the swash zone is much narrower than the surf zone. It was found, however, that the absolute rate of morphological change under swash action and surfzone processes are of similar magnitudes and that swash action may induce a significant amount of local morphological change when the high tide mark is located on the upper bar, making this process important for bar morphodynamics. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
10.
Knowledge of the physical processes acting at inlet systems and their interaction with sediments and sediment bodies is important to the understanding of such environments. The objectives of this study are to identify and assess the relative importance of the controlling processes across the complex sandbar system at the Teign inlet (Teignmouth, UK) through the combined application of a numerical model, field data and Argus video images. This allows the determination of the regions dominated by wave processes or by tidal processes and definition of the variability of these regions under different wave, tide and river-discharge conditions. Modelling experiments carried out for one stage of the evolution of the system show that the interaction between tidal motion and waves generates complex circulation patterns that drive the local sediment transport and sandbar dynamics, producing a cyclic morphological behaviour of the sandbars that form the ebb-tidal delta. The relative importance of each physical process on the sediment transport and consequent morphodynamics varies across the region. The main inlet channel is dominated by tidal action that directs the sediment transport as a consequence of the varying tidal flow asymmetry, resulting in net offshore transport. Sediment transport over the shoals and secondary channels at both sides of the main channel is dominated by wave-related processes, displacing sediment in the onshore direction. The interaction between waves and tide-generated currents controls the transport over the submerged sandbar that defines the channels seaward extend. High river discharge events are also proven to be important in this region, as they can change sediment-transport patterns across the area.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann 相似文献
11.
The evolution of the Ganges and Brahmaputra river delta during the Holocene period is discussed. Particular attention is given to the processes of delta formation, the dynamics of the delta hydrographic systems, the channel processes in river branches, as well as to the dynamics of the delta coastline and nearshore zone bed over the last 150–200 years. The calculation of sediment budget in the mouth area of these rivers is presented. 相似文献
12.
The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high‐energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross‐shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross‐shore gradients in offshore‐directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
13.
ONE D AND TWO D COMBINED MODEL FOR ESTUARY SEDIMENTATION 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
ZHANG Shiqi 《国际泥沙研究》1999,(1)
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14.
Present changes in the regime and structure of mouths of rivers, which empty into the Caspian Sea, are discussed. The similarities and differences of these processes at the mouths of different rivers of the Caspian Region were revealed. Assessment was made of the impact of changes in river water runoff and sediment load and in the Caspian Sea level as well as the nearshore zone relief and local hydraulic engineering activities on the processes under study. Anomalous features of the processes occurring at the mouths of the Volga and Terek rivers were revealed and explained. Hydrological and morphological processes typical of the present mouths of the rivers of Ural, Sulak, and Kura were revealed; these processes could be accepted as universal and possible analogs in assessing the expected changes at the mouths of other rivers in Russia and the world in the XXI century. 相似文献
15.
V. N. Mikhailov D. V. Magritsky V. I. Kravtsova M. V. Mikhailova M. V. Isupova 《Water Resources》2012,39(1):11-43
Regularities in the response of the mouths of major rivers, flowing into the Caspian Sea, to large-scale variations in its
level and river water runoff and sediment yield are considered. Changes in the morphological structure and hydrological regime
of the Volga, Terek, Sulak, Ural, and Kura mouths have been analyzed in both geological past and separately for three modern
periods: a considerable drop in Caspian Sea level before 1978, its abrupt rise in 1978–1995, and a relative stabilization
in the subsequent years. Specific features were identified in the hydrological-morphological processes in different mouths,
caused by the differences in river sediment yields, and the slopes of delta surface and mouth nearshore beds. Some theoretical
and methodological approaches were verified in the analysis and evaluation of the processes under consideration. The obtained
results of studies of the mouths of rivers flowing into the Caspian Sea can be regarded as examples and analogues in the assessment
of processes, which take place at the mouths of other Russian and world rivers at present and can take place in the future
under anticipated natural and anthropogenic variations in sea level and river runoff. 相似文献
16.
This paper examines the processes responsible for the morphodynamics of an intertidal swash bar at Skallingen, Denmark, during seven successive storms (one with a large surge of +3·02 m DNN). During this period a subtidal bar migrated landward onto the foreshore and continued to migrate across the intertidal zone as a swash bar. The onshore migration of the inner subtidal bar resulted from the erosion of sediment from the upper foreshore and dune ramp during the large storm surge that was transported seaward, causing the landward displacement of the bar through accretion on the landward slope. The magnitude and direction of suspended sediment transport within the intertidal zone, and more specifically at and close to the crest of the swash bar, varied with the ratio of both the significant (Hs) and average (Havg) wave heights to the water depth (hcr) at the swash bar crest (the local depth minimum). The transition between onshore and offshore suspended sediment transport was associated with the average wave of the incident distribution breaking on the swash bar crest (Havgh ≈ 0·33). While the onshore‐directed transport was largest at infragravity frequencies, sediment resuspension was best explained by the skewed accelerations under the surf bores. Offshore transport was dominated by the cross‐shore mean currents (undertow) that developed when the significant wave of the distribution broke on the swash bar crest (Hsh ≈ 0·33) and weakened as the average wave of the distribution started to break at the crest (Havgh ≈ 0·33) and the surf zone approached saturation. In contrast to subtidal bars, the swash bar at Skallingen exhibited a divergent behaviour with respect to the cross‐shore position of the breaker zone, migrating onshore when the average wave broke seaward of the crest and migrating offshore when the average wave broke landward of the crest. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
17.
A two-dimensional numerical model was presented for the simulation of wave breaking, runup and turbulence in the surf and swash zones. The main components of the model are the Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes equations describing the average motion of a turbulent flow, a k–ε turbulence closure model describing the transformation and dissipation processes of turbulence and a volume of fluid technique for tracking the free surface motion. Nearshore wave evolution on a sloping bed, the velocity field and other wave characteristics were investigated. First, the results of the model were compared with experimental results for different surf zone hydrodynamic conditions. Spilling and plunging breakers were simulated and the numerical model investigated for different wave parameters. The turbulence field was also considered and the spatial and time-dependent variations of turbulence parameters were discussed. In the next stage of the study, numerical results were compared with two sets of experimental data in the swash zone. Generally, there is good agreement except for turbulence predictions near the breaking point where the model does not represent well the physical processes. On the other hand, turbulence predictions were found to be excellent for the swash zone. The model provides a precise and efficient tool for the simulation of the flow field and wave transformations in the nearshore, especially in the swash zone. The numerical model can simulate the surface elevation of the vertical shoreline excursion on sloping beaches, while swash–swash interactions within the swash zone are accounted for. 相似文献
18.
《Continental Shelf Research》2006,26(5):661-680
Hydrodynamic forcing with respect to sediment transport and morphologic change, paying particular attention to relevant swash asymmetries, is reviewed. The hydrodynamics are categorized into their individual effects: high- and low-frequency motions, bores and turbulence, in/exfiltration, shear stresses and friction coefficients. Individual effects are then related to their potential for driving or influencing sediment transport and morphological change. Additional concepts such as settling/scour lag and sediment advection that have largely been ignored are also discussed. A simple framework is presented for the morphological response of the beachface under swash zone hydrodynamic processes. The framework acknowledges that the beachface cannot be considered in isolation from the surf zone and that the two zones are strongly linked through feedback processes. The swash zone itself is also a morphodynamic system and morphological response occurs as a result of disequilibrium between the beachface gradient and asymmetries in the swash hydrodynamics. Any beachface morphological development in response to such equilibrium will have direct and indirect effects on swash hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes. It is concluded that the two issues requiring most urgent research attention with regards to swash zone sediment transport processes are the roles of sediment advection and longshore swash motion. 相似文献
19.
We report on a 6‐year nearshore bathymetric dataset from the Danube Delta (Romanian Black Sea coast) that comprises 16 km of erosive, stable and accumulative low‐lying micro‐tidal beaches northward of Sf. Gheorghe arm mouth. Two to three two‐dimensional longshore sandbars exhibit a net multi‐annual cyclic (2.8–5.5 years) offshore migration (20–50 m yr?1) in a similar way to other coasts worldwide. Bar morphology and behavior on the sediment‐rich accretionary (dissipative) sector differ substantially from that on the erosive (intermediate) sector. Shoreface slope is the most important factor controlling sandbar number and behavior. It determines different wave‐breaking patterns in the surf zone, translated into different offshore sediment transport and bar zone widths along the study site. Additionally, sediment availability, as a result of the distance from the arm mouth and of the long‐term evolution of the coast, controls the sandbar volume variability. These are all ultimately reflected in the variations of sandbar migration rates and cycle periods. A non‐dimensional morpho‐sedimentary parameter is finally presented, which expresses the bar system change potential as offshore sediment transport potential across the bar zone. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
20.
Mud deposits near sandy beaches, found throughout the world, are of scientific and societal interest as they form important natural sea defenses by efficiently damping storm waves. A multi-national field experiment to study these phenomena was performed offshore Cassino beach in southern Brazil starting in 2004. This experiment aimed to investigate the formation of an offshore mud deposit, to characterize wave attenuation over potentially mobile muddy bottoms, and to evaluate the performance of models for wave transformation over heterogeneous beds through the measurement of water waves, near-bottom currents, bathymetry, and changes in bottom sediment characteristics. The main instrumentation was a set of wave sensors deployed in a transect from the shoreline across sandy and muddy deposits offshore to a depth of 25 m. Additional sensors, including current meters and optical backscatter sensors, were concentrated at stations in the middle of the mud deposit and in the surf zone to document aspects of the wave boundary layer and lutocline dynamics. This fieldwork also involved the geological and geotechnical characterization of the mud deposit using seismic equipment, echo-sounders, cores, surficial sampling and an in-situ density meter. These sediment samples were subsequently analyzed for density, grain size distribution, mineralogy, rheology and sedimentary structures. In addition, video and radar monitoring equipment were installed to measure the long-term aspects of surf zone damping by fluid mud and any associated morphodynamic responses. This paper provides a summary of environmental conditions monitored during the experiment and describes the major findings of the various investigations. Although data collection was more difficult than anticipated and dramatic wave attenuation involving the onshore transport of fluid mud into the surf zone region was not observed during the instrumented interval, the new methodologies developed and comprehensive observations obtained during this effort are being used to improve our understanding of shoaling wave dynamics and sediment transport in the coastal zone in regions with significant cohesive sediment deposits. 相似文献