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1.
Wave-induced steady streaming,mass transport and net sediment transport in rough turbulent ocean bottom boundary layers 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The interaction between two important mechanisms which causes streaming has been investigated by numerical simulations of the seabed boundary layer beneath both sinusoidal waves and Stokes second order waves, as well as horizontally uniform bottom boundary layers with asymmetric forcing. These two mechanisms are streaming caused by turbulence asymmetry in successive wave half-cycles (beneath asymmetric forcing), and streaming caused by the presence of a vertical wave velocity within the seabed boundary layer as earlier explained by Longuet-Higgins. The effect of wave asymmetry, wave length to water depth ratio, and bottom roughness have been investigated for realistic physical situations. The streaming induced sediment dynamics near the ocean bottom has been investigated; both the resulting suspended load and bedload are presented. Finally, the mass transport (wave-averaged Lagrangian velocity) has been studied for a range of wave conditions. The streaming velocities beneath sinusoidal waves (Longuet-Higgins streaming) is always in the direction of wave propagation, while the streaming velocities in horizontally uniform boundary layers with asymmetric forcing are always negative. Thus the effect of asymmetry in second order Stokes waves is either to reduce the streaming velocity in the direction of wave propagation, or, for long waves relative to the water depth, to induce a streaming velocity against the direction of wave propagation. It appears that the Longuet-Higgins streaming decreases as the wave length increases for a given water depth, and the effect of wave asymmetry can dominate, leading to a steady streaming against the wave propagation. Furthermore, the asymmetry of second order Stokes waves reduces the mass transport (wave-averaged Lagrangian velocity) as compared with sinusoidal waves. The boundary layer streaming leads to a wave-averaged transport of suspended sediments and bedload in the direction of wave propagation. 相似文献
2.
Measurements of near-bed shear stress were undertaken in the shallow subtidal zone at Durras Beach, NSW, Australia using a sideways-looking acoustic velocity meter installed within the wave boundary layer. The wave climate was swell-dominated and wave conditions comprised shoaling and breaking waves as well as surf bores. The sediment at the field site was medium-grained sand, and observations of bedform geometry were conducted using a pencilbeam-sonar system. Using frequency-filtering techniques, the measured stresses were partitioned into terms representing turbulent (Reynolds) stress, stresses due to gravity and infragravity-scale oscillatory motions, and wave-turbulence-mean current cross-terms. Gravity wave-orbital scale motions contributed the largest fraction of the stresses, comprising 24% on average, followed by long-wave advection of vertical orbital motion (16%). The presence of wave orbital-scale motions near or at the water/sediment interface was likely due to the porous nature of the seabed, facilitating interfacial flow. Shear stresses did not scale with bed roughness but exhibited a linear relationship with the relative wave height. This indicates that for the experimental conditions, surf zone processes overwhelmed bed roughness effects on shear stress and friction. Calculations of the wave friction factor, fw, showed that in a natural surf zone, this was a factor 3–4 larger than conventional predictions. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
3.
The Adriatic Sea general circulation model coupled to a third generation wave model SWAN and a sediment transport model was implemented in the Adriatic Sea to study the dynamics of the sediment transport and resuspension in the northern Adriatic Sea (NAS) during the Bora event in January 2001. The bottom boundary layer (BBL) was resolved by the coupled model with high vertical resolution, and the mechanism of the wave–current interaction in the BBL was also represented in the model. The study found that, during the Bora event of 13–17 January 2001, large waves with significant wave height 2 m and period of 5 s were generated by strong winds in the northwestern shelf of the Adriatic where the direction of wave propagation was orthogonal to the current. The combined motion of the wave and current in the BBL increased the bottom stress over the western Adriatic shelf, resulting in stronger sediment resuspension there. Combining stronger bottom resuspension and strong upward vertical flux of resuspended sediments due to turbulent mixing, the model predicted that sediment concentration near the Po River was much higher than that predicted by the model run without wave forcing. The study also shows that wave–current interaction in the BBL reduced the western Adriatic Coastal Currents (WACCs) in the shallower north. It is concluded that wave forcing significantly changed the sediment distributions and increased the total horizontal fluxes over the western shelf. These results signified wave effect on sediment flux and distribution in the NAS, and suggested that waves cannot be neglected in the study of dynamics of sediment transport and resuspension in the shallow coastal seas. By including the tidal forcing in the coupled model, we also examined the effect of tides on the sediment transport dynamics in the NAS. 相似文献
4.
《Continental Shelf Research》2006,26(17-18):2108-2124
A model for the emplacement, bioturbation, and preservation of fine-scaled sedimentary strata has been used to evaluate the impact of interacting physical and biological sedimentary processes on preserved sedimentary fabric in three depositional settings. The settings, which have contrasting hydrodynamic, geological, and biological characteristics, are Eckernförde Bay, German Baltic Sea; the Eel Shelf, northern California, USA; and the northern Gulf of Alaska continental shelf, USA. We have compared field measurements of sedimentation and bioturbation (from 7Be, 234Th, 210Pb, and 137Cs measurements), and observations of sedimentary fabric derived from core X-radiographs with model predictions of preserved sedimentary fabric. The one-dimensional model is forced by fluctuations in the instantaneous sedimentation rate, which deposits sediment with primary sedimentary fabric. Primary sedimentary fabric is then modified by bioturbation, which is represented as a first-order depth-limited reaction term, the rate of which is derived from radioisotopic and time-series estimates of bioturbation depth and intensity. Model output includes depth in seabed and corresponding preservation quotient, a measure of relative primary versus biogenic fabric. Although measured rates and depth scales of sedimentation and bioturbation vary across the three study areas by more than a factor of ten, model results strongly resemble actual sedimentary fabric in core X-radiographs in each case. Our results support and expand on concepts that invoke episodic sedimentation and depth-dependent bioturbation as important competing factors in the preservation or destruction of primary depositional fabric, and also suggest that radioisotopic estimates of bioturbation rates can adequately portray natural conditions. 相似文献
5.
Wave generation, propagation, and transformation from deep ocean over complex bathymetric terrains to coastal waters around Potter Cove (King George Island, South Shetland Islands, Antarctica) have been simulated for an austral summer month using the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) wave model. This study aims to examine and understand the wave patterns, energy fluxes, and dissipations in Potter Cove. Bed shear stress due to waves is also calculated to provide a general insight on the bed sediment erosion characteristics in Potter Cove.A nesting approach has been implemented from an oceanic scale to a high-resolution coastal scale around Potter Cove. The results of the simulations were compared with buoy observations obtained from the National Data Buoy Center, the WAVEWATCH III model results, and GlobWave altimeter data. The quality of the modelling results has been assessed using two statistical parameters, namely the Willmott’s index of agreement D and the bias index. Under various wave conditions, the significant wave heights at the inner cove were found to be about 40–50 % smaller than the ones near the mouth of Potter Cove. The wave power in Potter Cove is generally low. The spatial distributions of the wave-induced bed shear stress and active energy dissipation were found to be following the pattern of the bathymetry, and waves were identified as a potential major driving force for bed sediment erosion in Potter Cove, especially in shallow water regions. This study also gives some results on global ocean applications of SWAN.
相似文献6.
Erosion of hard‐rock coastal cliffs is understood to be caused by a combination of both marine and sub‐aerial processes. Beach morphology, tidal elevation and significant wave heights, especially under extreme storm conditions, can lead to variability in wave energy flux to the cliff‐toe. Wave and water level measurements in the nearshore under energetic conditions are difficult to obtain and in situ observations are rare. Here we use monthly cliff‐face volume changes detected using terrestrial laser scanning alongside beach morphological changes and modelled nearshore hydrodynamics to examine how exposed cliffs respond to changes in extreme wave conditions and beach morphology. The measurements cover the North Atlantic storms of 2013 to 2014 and consider two exposed stretches of coastline (Porthleven and Godrevy, UK) with contrasting beach morphology fronting the cliffs; a flat dissipative sandy beach at Godrevy and a steep reflective gravel beach at Porthleven. Beach slope and the elevation of the beach–cliff junction were found to influence the frequency of cliff inundation and the power of wave–cliff impacts. Numerical modelling (XBeach‐G) showed that under highly energetic wave conditions, i.e. those that occurred in the North Atlantic during winter 2013–2014, with Hs = 5.5 m (dissipative site) and 8 m (reflective site), the combination of greater wave height and steeper beach at the reflective site led to amplified wave run‐up, subjecting these cliffs to waves over four times as powerful as those impacting the cliffs at the dissipative site (39 kWm‐1 compared with 9 kWm‐1). This study highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to extreme wave conditions, where the majority (over 90% of the annual value) of cliff‐face erosion ensued during the winter. The significance of these short‐term erosion rates in the context of long‐term retreat illustrates the importance of incorporating short‐term beach and wave dynamics into geomorphological studies of coastal cliff change. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd. 相似文献
7.
《Continental Shelf Research》2006,26(17-18):2319-2334
Instrumented bottom tripods have provided important data on sediment transport processes on continental shelves and in estuaries for four decades. Since the initial deployment in a tidal channel in Puget Sound, WA, in 1965 numerous tripods have been constructed to investigate bottom boundary layer and sediment dynamics worldwide. Tripod data have led to new understanding of near-bottom wave and current flows in the coastal ocean, and have been crucial to the development of shelf circulation and sediment transport models. Calculations of bottom stress, bottom roughness, and sediment flux that resulted directly from tripod data have been compared to bottom boundary layer model results. Where these have differed, new or revised model components have been developed to improve the skill of the models. The many discoveries that have been made from tripod experiments include dense, near-bottom fluid mud layers that transport large quantities of suspended sediment offshore into deeper regions of the continental shelf. This process has been linked to the seaward progradation of subaqueous deltas and to the boundaries of mid-shelf mud deposits off rivers with high fine-sediment discharge. 相似文献
8.
Roll waves commonly occur in overland flow and have an important influence on the progress of soil erosion on slopes. This study aimed to explore the evolution and mechanism of roll waves on steep slopes. The potential effects of flow rate, rainfall intensity and bed roughness on the laws controlling roll wave parameters were investigated. The flow rates, rainfall intensities and bed roughness varied from 5 to 30 L/min, 0 to 150 mm/h, and 0.061 to 1.700 mm, respectively. The results indicate that roll waves polymerize significantly along the propagation path, and bed roughness and rainfall affect the generation and evolution of roll waves. The wave velocity, length and height decreased with bed roughness, whereas the wave frequency increased with increasing bed roughness under fixed flow rate and rainfall intensity conditions. Rainfall increased the wave velocity and wavelength and decreased the wave frequency. The wave velocity, height and wavelength tended to increase with an increasing flow rate. Rainfall promoted the generation of roll waves, whereas bed roughness had the opposite effect. The generation of roll waves is closely related to the Froude number (Fr) and flow resistance. In this experiment, the range of the Reynolds number for the roll waves generated in the laminar region was 142–416, and the range of the flow resistance coefficient was 0.64–4.85. The critical value of the Fr for flow instability in the laminar region was approximately 0.57. Exploring the generation and evolution law of roll waves is necessary for understanding the processes and dynamic mechanisms of slope soil erosion. 相似文献
9.
Abstract Tidal pressures and currents were measured with self‐contained capsules dropped to the sea floor for one month at distances of 175, 190, and 500 nautical miles from San Diego. These observations, together with a one‐week bottom pressure record by Filloux at 750 n miles, and three half‐week bottom current records by Isaacs et al, at intermediary distances, were analyzed for tidal components by cross‐correlation with a noise‐free reference time series. (For short records this method has some merit over classical tide analysis.) It was found that the tide decays seaward to e‐1 times the coastal amplitude over a distance of order 1000 km for the semidiurnal species, slower for the diurnal species. Tidal currents turn counterclockwise, and are polarized with maximum flow parrallel to shore in the direction of tidal propagation (320°T) at local high tide. The current amplitude is roughly 2 cm/sec for the semidiurnal component, 1 cm/sec for the diurnal component. Superimposed baroclinic tidal currents lead to poor signal: noise ratios (between 1:1 and 10:1) for the barotropic currents. In contrast, the ratio is typically 1000:1 for the bottom pressures and generally exceeds that for coastal tide stations of comparable duration. Published I.H.B. tidal constants for exposed California coastal stations indicate “upshore” (towards 320°T) propagation at 140 m/sec for semidiurnal tides. 214 m/sec for diurnal tides. To interpret these diverse observations, we have computed the dispersion laws for all possible rotationally‐gravitationally trapped waves against a straight coast with shelf. Trapped solutions are conveniently portrayed in terms of a parameter μ such that ? = sin μ = iu/v and f = ‐ cos μ = η/v define the ellipticity and impedance of the wave motion, η, u and v being off‐shelf dimensionless elevation, normal‐to‐shore and longshore components of velocity, respectively. We then attempt to fit the observations by a superposition of the possible wave classes, all of the same tidal frequency: (a) a free Kelvin‐like edge wave with small μ (mostly trapped by rotation, but somewhat slowed by the shelf); (6) a free Poincare‐like leaky wave; and (c) a forced wave (the distortion of the sea bottom by the tide producing forces plays a significant role). The mod el can account for the main features of the observed tidal heights, and gives relative amplitudes at the coast of 54:16:4 cm for components a:b:c in the case of the semidiurnal tides, 21:24:9 cm for the diurnal tides. The results place a semidiurnal amphidrome about midway between San Diego and Hawaii. Tidal currents are not well fitted by the model, and there are problems associated with the separation of barotropic and baroclinic modes, and with the benthic boundary layer. Coastal energy dissipation is small in the sea under investigation, but a “ capacitive “ phase delay appears to be associated with Northern California harbors and inland waters. 相似文献
10.
The resiliency of coastal communities is imperative because these areas experience risk of damage from coastal storms as well as increasing population pressures and development. The severity of this hazard is compounded by sea level rise and a potential increase in storm intensities due to climate change. The ability of coastal communities to plan for, resist, and quickly and completely recover from severe coastal storm events and flooding is of critical importance. There is a growing interest in applying complementary and redundant approaches to reduce the flood risk of these vulnerable communities, such as incorporating natural and nature‐based features into the project planning process. However, accounting for the benefits of these nature‐based features in coastal design is still challenging. One of the natural features generally acknowledged to offer coastal protection benefits is wetlands. Using laboratory experiments of artificial vegetation as a foundation, the bounds of wave dissipation by vegetation are explored analytically and the effectiveness of wave dissipation by vegetation over large scales is investigated using the spectral wave model STWAVE. Wave heights modeled using a vegetation dissipation formulation are compared to those modeled with the current practice of representing vegetation using bottom friction, particularly the Manning formulation. The vegetation dissipation formulation reduced more wave energy than the Manning bottom friction formulation for submerged wetlands. Because the Manning formulation does not integrate vegetation properties, to achieve consistent results would require varying the Manning n coefficient to account for the spatial and temporal variation in form drag induced by the plants due to changes in plant density, diameter, and degree of plant submergence. Thus, a re‐evaluation of existing methods for assessing wave dissipation by vegetation is recommended for wider application of vegetation dissipation formulations in numerical models. Such models are critical for evaluating coastal resiliency of communities protected by wetland features. Published 2016. This article is a U.S. Government work and is in the public domain in the USA. 相似文献
11.
J. Tinker T. O’Hare G. Masselink T. Butt P. Russell 《Continental Shelf Research》2009,29(16):1948-1960
A new field-based parameterisation (‘shape function’) describing the distribution of cross-shore suspended sediment transport across a beach profile is presented. Time-averaged and depth-integrated suspended sediment fluxes were measured over 39 tides at Sennen Cove, Cornwall, UK, for a range of wave conditions (offshore significant wave heights 0.1–2.5 m). The suspended sediment flux data were heuristically separated into four transport components: (1) mean flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (2) oscillatory flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (3) onshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone and (4) offshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone. Each of these transport components was related to the local water depth (h) normalised by the breakpoint depth (hb) and the four resulting suspended transport shape functions were combined to form a total suspended load shape function. Each shape function component is scaled independently by the wave energy level through hb. The total suspended load shape function predicts onshore sediment transport under low-energy conditions, with peaks at the breakpoint and in the swash zone, in agreement with the field observations. Under high-energy conditions the total suspended load shape function predicts onshore transport in the shoaling zone, offshore transport in the surf zone and onshore transport in the inner swash zone. 相似文献
12.
The abrasion of coastal rock platforms by individual or clusters of clasts during transport has not been quantitatively assessed. We present a study which identifies the types of abrasion and quantifies erosion due to the transport of clasts during three storms in February and March 2016. We explore relationships between platform roughness, determined by the fractal dimension (D) of the topographic profiles, geomorphic controls and the type and frequency of abrasion feature observed. Clast transport experiments were undertaken in conjunction with the measurement of wave energy to assess transport dynamics under summer and winter (non‐storm) conditions. Platform abrasion occurred extensively during the storms. We identify two types of clast abrasion trails: simple and complex. In addition, we find two forms of erosion occur on these trails: Scratch marks and Percussion marks. An estimated 13.6 m2 of the platform surface was eroded by clast abrasion on simple abrasion trails during the three storms. We attribute approximately two thirds of this to scratch‐type abrasion. The total volume of material removed by abrasion was 67 808 cm3. Despite the larger surface area affected by scratch marks, we find that the volume of material removed through percussion impact was almost seven times greater. We also find that the type and frequency of abrasion features is strongly influenced by the effect of platform morphometry on transport mode, with impact‐type abrasion dominating areas of higher platform roughness. Results of the clast transport experiments indicate that abrasion occurs under non‐storm wave energy conditions with observable geomorphological effects. We suggest that abrasion by clasts is an important component of platform erosion on high energy Atlantic coastlines, particularly over longer timescales, and that the morphogenetic link between the cliff and the platform is important in this context as the sediment supplied by the cliff is used to abrade the platform. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
13.
Experiments are conducted in a laboratory flume on the propagation of a surface wave against unidirectional flow with a sediment bed. This article presents the spatial variation of bedforms induced by the wave-blocking phenomenon by a suitably tuned uniform fluid flow and a counter-propagating wave. The occurrence of wave-blocking is confirmed by finding a critical wave frequency in a particular flow discharge in which the waves are effectively blocked and is established using the linear dispersion relation. The purpose of this work is to identify wave-blocking and its influence on the development of bedforms over the sediment bed. Interestingly bedform signatures are observed at a transition of bedforms in three zones, with asymmetric ripples having a steeper slope downstream face induced by the incoming current, followed by flat sand bars beneath the wave-blocking zone and more symmetric ripples below the wave-dominated region at the downstream. This phenomenon suggests that the sediment bed is segmented into three different regions of bed geometry along the flow. The deviations of mean flows, Reynolds stresses, turbulent kinetic energy, and power spectral density due to the wave-blocking phenomenon are presented along the non-uniform flow over sediment bed. The bottom shear stress, bed roughness and stochastic nature of the bedform features are also discussed. The results are of relevance to engineers and geoscientists concerned with contemporary process as well as those interested in the interpretation of palaeoenvironmental conditions from fossil bedforms. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
14.
Cardoso PG Lillebø AI Lopes CB Pereira E Duarte AC Pardal MA 《Marine pollution bulletin》2008,56(2):325-334
Mercury, with its reactive forms being the most deleterious for the trophic chains, has been identified as a major pollutant in a few confined bodies of the coastal zone. Due to feeding, burrowing, and bioirrigation activities, infauna are known to play a crucial role in the biogeochemical processes of contaminants. The main goal of the present study is to evaluate the effects of Hediste diversicolor bioturbation on mercury fluxes from estuarine sediments in a mesocosms laboratory experiment. Additionally, an attempt was made to establish a relationship between the amount of remobilised mercury to the water column and the degree of contamination of the sediments using a mercury contamination gradient. The present experiment demonstrated that the bioturbation activity caused by the gallery-diffuser H. diversicolor did not influence the remobilisation of mercury (in dissolved reactive forms) from the sediment to the water column. The concentration of dissolved reactive mercury in the water column also did not reflect the degree of contamination in the sediments. The results obtained were in accordance with the sediment characteristics of the Mondego Estuary and Ria de Aveiro (Portugal), since they are very rich in organic matter content, iron/manganese total and hydrous oxides. These physicochemical characteristics of the sediments may partially justify the retention of mercury by these systems, even when they are subjected to bioturbation. In conclusion, sediments with high organic matter content and a high concentration of iron/manganese hydrous oxides allowed for efficient retention of mercury, and the bioturbation process did not seem to affect the system. Another conclusion from this study is that the remobilisation of mercury by bioturbation to the water column is not a fast process, requiring more than 24h. This study constitutes an important work in the area of the effects of bioturbation on mercury remobilisation. Considering the toxicity of mercury for the biota, it is essential to evaluate the real magnitude of mercury processes occurring in estuarine systems in order to obtain essential information on metal behaviour. 相似文献
15.
Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×107 m3 during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment. 相似文献
16.
Déborah Idier Emmanuel Romieu Rodrigo Pedreros Carlos Oliveros 《Continental Shelf Research》2010,30(3-4):365-377
This paper presents a method to investigate the relative influence of waves, wind-induced currents and tidal currents on sediment mobility in coastal environment. It is based on the assumption that, knowing high uncertainties linked to sediment dynamics studies, simple sediment mobility indicators are sufficient tools to provide useful information. This method is based on five main steps: (1) assessing hydrodynamic conditions and related errors spatially and temporally for an area; (2) evaluating the bottom shear stress induced by these hydrodynamic conditions; (3) providing simple sediment mobility indicators; (4) analysing the sensitivity of these indicators to the existing hydrodynamic uncertainties; (5) interpreting indicators knowing their limits (identified in the sensitivity analysis). This methodology is applied to a test site on the inner shelf, seaward of the Pertuis Charentais region in France. Using wave (SWAN) and sea-level and currents (MARS-2DH) modelling, we study the spatial distribution of the relative contribution of waves, tides and wind-induced current in the non-cohesive sediment mobility under storm conditions. The deduced sediment dynamics indicators reveal the dominant action of waves in sediment initiation in the offshore area, in water depths of up to 60 m. The sensitivity study, performed in order to evaluate the validity of results, shows that the sediment mobility indicators still provide relevant information, even for hydrodynamic uncertainties of ±20% or furthermore when only a qualitative sedimentological knowledge of the area is available. 相似文献
17.
Eroded sediment may have significant effects on the hydraulics of overland flow, but few studies have been performed to quantify these effects on steep slopes. This study investigated the potential effects of sediment load on Reynolds number, Froude number, flow depth, mean velocity, Darcy–Weisbach friction coefficient, shear stress, stream power, and unit stream power of overland flow in a sand‐glued hydraulic flume under a wide range of hydraulic conditions and sediment loads. Slope gradients were varied from 8·7 to 34·2%, unit flow rates from 0·66 to 5·26×10?3 m2 s?1, and sediment loads from 0 to 6·95 kg m?1 s?1. Both Reynolds number (Re) and Froude number (Fr) decreased as sediment load increased, implying a decrease in flow turbulence. This inverse relationship should be considered in modeling soil erosion processes. Flow depth increased as sediment load increased with a mean value of 1·227 mm, caused by an increase in volume of sediment‐laden flow (contribution 62·4%) and a decrease in mean flow velocity (contribution 37·6%). The mean flow velocity decreased by up to 0·071 m s?1 as sediment load increased. The Darcy–Weisbach friction coefficient (f) increased with sediment load, showing that the total energy consumption increased with sediment load. The effects of sediment load on f depended on flow discharge: as flow discharge increased, the influence of sediment load on f decreased due to increased flow depth and reduced relative roughness. Flow shear stress and stream power increased with sediment load, on average, by 80·5% and 60·2%, respectively; however, unit stream power decreased by an average of 11·1% as sediment load increased. Further studies are needed to extend and apply the insights obtained under these controlled conditions to real‐world overland flow conditions. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
18.
This study investigates sediment transport at a very low‐energy backbarrier beach in southern Portugal, from a spring‐to‐neap tide period, during fair‐weather conditions. Rates and directions of transport were determined based on the application of fluorescent tracer techniques. Wind and currents were collected locally, whereas the dominant small and short‐period wind waves were characterized using a morphodynamic modelling system coupling a circulation model, a spectral wave model, and a bottom evolution model, well validated over the study area. For the recorded conditions sediment transport was small and ebb oriented, with daily transport rates below 0.02 m3 day‐1. Tidal currents (mainly ebb velocities) were found to be the main causative forcing controlling sediment displacements. Transport rates were higher during spring tides, tending towards very small values at neap tides. Results herein reported points towards the distinction between tracer advection and tracer dispersion in this type of environment. Transport by advection was low as a consequence of the prevailing hydrodynamic conditions (Hs < 0.1 m, and max. current velocity of 0.5 m s‐1) and the tracer adjustment to the transport layer, whereas dispersion was relatively high (few metres per day). Tracer techniques allowed distinguishing the broad picture of transport, but revealed the need for refinement in this type of environments (bi‐directional forcing by ebb and flood cycles). Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
19.
Numerical study on wave dynamics and wave-induced bed erosion characteristics in Potter Cove, Antarctica 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Wave generation, propagation, and transformation from deep ocean over complex bathymetric terrains to coastal waters around Potter Cove (King George Island, South Shetland Islands, Antarctica) have been simulated for an austral summer month using the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) wave model. This study aims to examine and understand the wave patterns, energy fluxes, and dissipations in Potter Cove. Bed shear stress due to waves is also calculated to provide a general insight on the bed sediment erosion characteristics in Potter Cove.A nesting approach has been implemented from an oceanic scale to a high-resolution coastal scale around Potter Cove. The results of the simulations were compared with buoy observations obtained from the National Data Buoy Center, the WAVEWATCH III model results, and GlobWave altimeter data. The quality of the modelling results has been assessed using two statistical parameters, namely the Willmott’s index of agreement D and the bias index. Under various wave conditions, the significant wave heights at the inner cove were found to be about 40–50 % smaller than the ones near the mouth of Potter Cove. The wave power in Potter Cove is generally low. The spatial distributions of the wave-induced bed shear stress and active energy dissipation were found to be following the pattern of the bathymetry, and waves were identified as a potential major driving force for bed sediment erosion in Potter Cove, especially in shallow water regions. This study also gives some results on global ocean applications of SWAN. 相似文献
20.
An initially uniform longshore current on a plane erodible beach is considered and a linear stability analysis of the bed-flow system is performed in order to investigate the growth of alongshore periodic topographic features such as transverse or oblique bars. γ, numerical model based on the shallow water equations and a simple sediment transport formula is used. For a wide range of parameters instability is found, leading to the growth of large-scale topographic features (lengthscale of the order of the current width) downflow progressing. The growth rates and the dominant unstable mode depend mainly on R = cd/β parameter, where cd is the bottom friction coefficient and β is the beach slope. For a small R, say less than 0.1, instability is very weak, probably negligible. For R between 0.1 and 0.7 instability increases with R, leading typically to a quite simple transverse bars pattern. A further increase in R produces a far more complicated behaviour where complex patterns with downcurrent oriented oblique bars, bumps and holes can be dominant. In this region growth rates may either decrease or increase with R depending on the beach slope and the maximum Froude number of the basic flow, F. Usually, the most complex behaviour is found for gently sloping beaches. The physical mechanism of the instability is found to lie on the disturbances of potential vorticity caused by topographically induced differences in bottom friction. In this sense it is similar to the alternate bars growth in a river rather than the dunes or antidunes occurrence for 1D channel flow. The predictions of the model compare well with the available experimental data. The alongshore wavelength, γ, typically of the order of one to four times the width of the current, is close to four times for the most common values of R. The typical growth time is proportional to γ2 and for a wavelength of 100 m can be of the order of one day, depending on the sediment transport rate. The migrational speed is inversely proportional to γ, in accordance to earlier field data reported by Sonu (1969) Collective movement of sediment in littoral environment. 相似文献