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1.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,38(1):47-52
We derive a general linear, weakly dispersive, Boussinesq-type equation that can be used to study edge waves on beaches with slow cross-shore variation of the depth and the alongshore current. The equation is more accurate than the non-dispersive shallow water equations and simpler than the fully dispersive elliptic mild slope equation (especially for a non-zero alongshore current). The improved performance of the new Boussinesq-type model is demonstrated using analytic solutions for edge waves on a plane beach with zero alongshore current.  相似文献   

2.
A horizontal two- dimensional numerical model is developed for estimation of sediment transport and sea bed change around a large circular cylinder under wave action. The wave model is based on an elliptic mild slope equation. The wave-induced current by the gradient of radiation stress is considered and a depth integrated shallow water equation is applied to the calculation of the current. The mass transport velocity and the bed shear stress due to streaming are considered, which are important factors affecting the sediment transport around a structure due to waves, especially in reflective areas. Wave-current interaction is taken into account in the model for computing the bed shear stress. The model is implemented by a finite element method. The results of this model are compared with those from other methods and agree well with experimental data.  相似文献   

3.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(1):17-34
Approximate equations for the elliptic mild slope equation are derived based on Padé approximation and used as absorbing boundaries. The new boundary equations can absorb the incident waves for high range of wave incidence angle. In addition, the new boundary equations can be used iteratively to refine the solution by eliminating reflections from the boundaries. An iterative conjugate gradient scheme has been used to solve the elliptic water wave equation and the new boundary equations. The model developed can accommodate for wave diffraction, refraction and reflections from structures with wide range of wave angles at the boundaries. The new model has been tested for several cases. The model compares very well with other models.  相似文献   

4.
Numerical Simulation of Wave Height and Wave Set-Up in Nearshore Regions   总被引:2,自引:3,他引:2  
Based on the time dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation, and then a practical method for the simulation of wave height and wave set-up in nearshore regions is presented. The variation of the complex wave amplitude is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The components of wave radiation stress are calculated subsequently by new expressions for them according to the obtained complex wave amplitude, and then the depth-averaged equation is applied to the calculation of wave set-up due to wave breaking. Numerical results are in good agreement with experimental data, showing that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable and that the new method is effective for the simulation of wave set-up due to wave breaking in nearshore regions.  相似文献   

5.
Surface water waves in coastal waters are commonly modeled using the mild slope equation. One of the parameters in the coastal boundary condition for this equation is the direction at which waves approach a coast. Three published methods of estimating this direction are examined, and it is demonstrated that the wave fields obtained using these estimates deviate significantly from the corresponding analytic solution. A new method of estimating the direction of approaching waves is presented and it is shown that this method correctly reproduces the analytic solution. The ability of these methods to simulate waves in a rectangular harbor is examined.  相似文献   

6.
The mild-slope equation derived by Berkhoff (1972), has widely been used in the numerical calculation of refraction and diffraction of regular waves. However, it is well known that the random sea waves has a significant effect in the refraction and diffraction problems. In this paper, a new form of time-dependent mild slope equation for irregular waves was derived with Fade approximation and Kubo's time series concept. The equation was simplified using WKB method, and simple and practical irregular mild slope equation was obtained. Results of numerical calculations are compared with those of laboratory experiments.  相似文献   

7.
8.
波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。  相似文献   

9.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(6):513-533
Using the perturbation method, a time dependent parabolic equation is developed based on the elliptic mild slope equation with dissipation term. With the time dependent parabolic equation employed as the governing equation, a numerical model for wave propagation including dissipation term in water of slowly varying topography is presented in curvilinear coordinates. In the model, the self-adaptive grid generation method is employed to generate a boundary-fitted and varying spacing mesh. The numerical tests show that the effects of dissipation term should be taken into account if the distance of wave propagation is large, and that the outgoing boundary conditions can be treated more effectively by introduction of the dissipation term into the numerical model. The numerical model is able to give good results of simulating wave propagation for waters of complicatedly boundaries and effectively predict physical processes of wave propagation. Moreover, the errors of the analytical solution deduced by Kirby et al. (1994) [Kirby, J.T., Dalrymple, R.A., Kabu, H., 1994. Parabolic approximation for water waves in conformal coordinate systems. Coastal Engineering 23, 185–213.] from the small-angle parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation for the case of waves between diverging breakwaters in a polar coordinate system are corrected.  相似文献   

10.
椭圆型缓坡方程的一个有效的有限元解   总被引:7,自引:0,他引:7  
赵明  滕斌 《海洋学报》2002,24(1):117-123
将海绵层消波的方法用于有限元方法中,提出了缓坡方程的一种有效的有限元求解方法.在应用有限元法求解椭圆型缓坡方程时,通过在方程中加摩阻项,并在入射边界(波浪由此边界进入计算域)处使用不连续单元,将绕射势从总势中分离出来,在边界上利用海绵层进行消波处理,有效地消除了由于引用放射边界条件引起的误差和数值反射现象.  相似文献   

11.
On the modeling of wave propagation on non-uniform currents and depth   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
By transforming two different time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equations with dissipation term for wave propagation on non-uniform currents into wave-action conservation equation and eikonal equation, respectively, shown are the different effects of dissipation term on the eikonal equation in the two different mild slope equations. The performances of intrinsic frequency and wave number are also discussed. Thus the suitable mathematical model is chosen in which the wave number vector and intrinsic frequency are expressed both more rigorously and completely. By using the perturbation method, an extended evolution equation, which is of time-dependent parabolic type, is developed from the time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equation which exists in the suitable mathematical model, and solved by using the alternating direction implicit (ADI) method. Presented is the numerical model for wave propagation and transformation on non-uniform currents in water of slowly varying topography. From the comparisons of the numerical solutions with the theoretical solutions of two examples of wave propagation, respectively, the results show that the numerical solutions are in good agreement with the exact ones. Calculating the interactions between incident wave and current on a sloping beach [Arthur, R.S., 1950. Refraction of shallow water waves. The combined effects of currents and underwater topography. EOS Transactions, August 31, 549–552], the differences of wave number vector between refraction and combined refraction–diffraction of waves are discussed quantitatively, while the effects of different methods of calculating wave number vector on numerical results are shown.  相似文献   

12.
非结构化网格下椭圆型缓坡方程的数值求解   总被引:4,自引:4,他引:0       下载免费PDF全文
魏美芳  唐军  沈永明 《海洋学报》2009,31(2):159-164
椭圆型缓坡方程是一种用线性波浪理论研究近岸波浪传播变形的有效波浪数学模型。非结构化网格下的有限容积法不仅对复杂边界的适应性好,还能保证迭代求解过程的守恒性。建立了非结构化网格下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型。在模型中采用非结构化网格下的有限容积法对椭圆型缓坡方程进行了数值离散,结合GPBiCG(m,n)算法求解离散方程。数值计算结果表明,该数值模型可有效地用于模拟近岸缓坡区域复杂边界下波浪的传播。  相似文献   

13.
修正型缓坡方程的有限元模型   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0  
倪云林  滕斌  丛龙飞 《海洋学报》2017,39(1):104-110
与缓坡方程相比,修正型缓坡方程增加了地形曲率项和坡度平方项,从而提高了数值求解的复杂性。本文将计算域划分为内域和外域,内域为水深变化区域,使用修正型缓坡方程,其中的地形曲率项和坡度平方项可用有限单元各节点的水深信息和单元插值函数表示,外域为水深恒定区,速度势满足Helmholtz方程,通过内外域的边界匹配建立有限元方程,并用高斯消去法求解。进而分别模拟了波浪传过Homma岛和圆形浅滩的变形,其结果与相关的解析解和实验数据吻合良好,证明了本文有限元模型的正确性。同时,通过与实验数据的对比也明显看出,在地形坡度较陡的情况下,修正型缓坡方程较缓坡方程具有更高的计算精度。  相似文献   

14.
显式非线性弥散关系在浅水波变形计算中的应用   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
本文参照Zhao和Anastasiou的方法,导出了逼近Booij的非线性弥散关系的近似显式表达式,该式给出的结果与Booij的非线性弥散关系相当吻合。用中文显式非线性弥散关系,结合会弱非线性效应的缓坡方程,构成含非线性影响项缓坡方程的一个求解浅水波变形问题的方程组。用实验数据对本文模型进行验证,结果表明,显式非线性弥散关系在求解浅水波变形问题时,给出了更符合实验数据的结果。  相似文献   

15.
黄虎  周锡礽  吕秀红 《海洋学报》2000,22(4):101-106
由于缓坡方程计算量大和其本身的缓坡假定而在实际应用中受到了限制,故对斯托克斯波在非平整海底(适用于缓坡和陡坡地形)上传播的Liu和Dingemans的三阶演化方程进行抛物逼近,得到一个新的非线性抛物型方程,它能够包含同类方程未曾考虑的二阶长波效应.通过数值计算结果与Berkhoff等人的经典实验数据的比较,证明所提出的抛物型模型理论具有较高的精度.  相似文献   

16.
In this paper, author employed Jacobi elliptic function expansion method to build the new wave solutions of time fractional modified Camassa–Holm equation which is completely integrable dispersive shallow-water equation. In ocean engineering, Camassa–Holm equation is generally used as a tool in computer simulation of the water waves in shallow sees, coastal and harbors. The obtained solutions show that the Jacobi elliptic function expansion method (JEFEM) which based on Jacobi elliptic functions is an efficient, reliable, applicable and accurate tool for analytic approximation of a wide variety of nonlinear conformable time fractional partial differential equations.  相似文献   

17.
An analytic solution to the mild slope equation is derived for waves propagating over an axi-symmetric pit located in an otherwise constant depth region. The water depth inside the pit decreases in proportion to an integer power of radial distance from the pit center. The mild slope equation in cylindrical coordinates is transformed into ordinary differential equations by using the method of separation of variables, and the coefficients of the equation in radial direction are transformed into explicit forms by using the direct solution for the wave dispersion equation by Hunt (Hunt, J.N., 1979. Direct solution of wave dispersion equation. J. Waterw., Port, Coast., Ocean Div., Proc. ASCE, 105, 457–459). Finally, the Frobenius series is used to obtain the analytic solution. Due to the feature of the Hunt's solution, the present analytic solution is accurate in shallow and deep waters, while it is less accurate in intermediate depth waters. The validity of the analytic solution is demonstrated by comparison with numerical solutions of the hyperbolic mild slope equations. The analytic solution is also used to examine the effects of the pit geometry and relative depth on wave transformation. Finally, wave attenuation in the region over the pit is discussed.  相似文献   

18.
利用有限元方法求解双曲型缓坡方程   总被引:4,自引:1,他引:4  
赵明  滕斌 《海洋工程》2002,20(3):54-60
本文提出了一种双曲型缓坡方程的有限元计算方法 ,在建立有限元积分方程时通过在造波线处加入脉动源项来实现内部造波 ,并在开边界处利用阻尼层吸波 ,减少了在边界处由于数值处理引起的误差。数值计算结果与实测值吻合良好。本方法可用于大区域波浪场的计算中  相似文献   

19.
An energy-controlling technique to actively manage the reflective property of waves from solid boundary is presented. As linear waves propagate through an energy-controlling area, a reduction in wave heights occurs due to energy dissipation, which can be placed under direct control through the imaginary part of the wavenumber and phase velocity. Based on this relationship, the present study investigates a new method to control reflected waves with desired heights in the mild slope equation model. The method is validated through numerical tests for various reflection coefficients and the results confirm the promising use of energy-controlling boundary condition for partial wave reflections.  相似文献   

20.
A composite numerical model is presented for computing the wave field in a harbor. The mild slope equation is discretized by a finite element method in the domain concerned. Out of the computational domain, the water depth is assumed to be constant. The boundary element method is applied to the outer boundary for dealing with the infinite boundary condition. Because the model satisfies strictly the infinite boundary condition, more accurate results can be obtained. The model is firstly applied to compute the wave diffraction in a narrow rectangular bay and the wave diffraction from a porous cylinder. The numerical results are compared with the analytical solution, experimental data and other numerical results. Good agreements are obtained. Then the model is applied to computing the wave diffraction in a square harbor with varying water depth. The effects of the water depth in the harbor and the incoming wave direction on the wave height distribution are discussed.  相似文献   

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