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裂流是海滩旅游中重要的安全隐患,国内目前还很少有裂流风险的评价研究。文章基于地形动力学模型对湛江东海岛海滩裂流风险从年平均、逐月平均和逐月常浪向状况下进行了评价。结果表明:(1)东海岛海滩全年平均状态为沙坝消散型海滩,一年四季出现裂流的概率较大,为中等危险性的海滩;(2)逐月平均海滩类型以沙坝消散型为主,但在6—7月海滩类型为低潮沙坝/裂流型,海滩风险等级最高,8月的月平均海滩状态为无沙坝消散型,属于危险性较低海滩,但此时波浪向为SE向时,海滩状态变成低潮沙坝/裂流型,裂流风险等级很高;(3)海滩管理者要重视对海滩裂流风险的管理。 相似文献
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浙江朱家尖岛东沙海滩沉积与地貌动态变化 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
砂质海滩是浙江沿海的稀缺资源,以朱家尖岛东沙海滩为例,开展海滩沉积与地貌演变研究,可进一步了解浙江岬湾型海滩发育的区域特性。通过2010—2012年4次地形重复测量对比和沉积物采样分析,结果表明,东沙岸滩沉积地貌相带分布变化明显,沉积物自岸向海分别为砾石、中砂、细砂、粉砂、黏土质粉砂,海滩地貌呈现季节性调整,冬季为滩脊-沟槽地貌,夏季为平坦缓坡地貌,水下岸坡表现为冬淤夏冲。水动力(波浪、潮汐)、沉积物来源和人类活动是影响东沙海滩发育演变的主要因素。崩破波方式和较大的潮差,使东沙海滩呈现为无沙坝发育的消散性状态。丰富的长江入海悬浮泥沙来源,导致东沙海滩粗颗粒砂质沉积物分布范围变小,砂泥分界线向岸靠近。采砂、海塘修筑等人为活动减少和阻断了沿岸粗颗粒沉积物来源,造成海滩侵蚀明显。 相似文献
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2013—2014年,在辽东湾六股河口两侧开展了海滩地形及海岸侵蚀的现场调查,于兴城至绥中沿海布设6处调查岸段及17条断面。结果表明,研究海滩地貌主要组成部分包括反射型高潮滩-滩坎-消散型低潮滩,其中低潮滩多发育有近岸沙坝和水下沙坝。绥中南江屯、皮家屯及兴城新立屯海滩侵蚀明显,多数海滩持续侵蚀,调查期内最大平均下蚀速率达53.2cm/a。分析发现,海滩地形及断面蚀淤量有较明显的季节或区域差异。海滩冬季近岸沙坝消失、水下沙坝离岸距离小于夏季。六股河口南侧夏季海滩断面侵蚀量增加、淤积量减少,而六股河口北侧相反。研究认为,岸线自然形态差异及其造成的沿岸输沙差异是导致不同岸段蚀淤差异的主要自然原因。海岸封闭性建筑物(尤其是突堤)影响了海滩局部断面蚀淤变化。海滩地貌及蚀淤的季节或区域变化的主要原因为沿岸波浪特征等因素的季节性和区域性差异。 相似文献
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《海洋地质与第四纪地质》2016,(3)
2013—2014年,在辽东湾六股河口两侧开展了海滩地形及海岸侵蚀的现场调查,于兴城至绥中沿海布设6处调查岸段及17条断面。结果表明,研究海滩地貌主要组成部分包括反射型高潮滩-滩坎-消散型低潮滩,其中低潮滩多发育有近岸沙坝和水下沙坝。绥中南江屯、皮家屯及兴城新立屯海滩侵蚀明显,多数海滩持续侵蚀,调查期内最大平均下蚀速率达53.2cm/a。分析发现,海滩地形及断面蚀淤量有较明显的季节或区域差异。海滩冬季近岸沙坝消失、水下沙坝离岸距离小于夏季。六股河口南侧夏季海滩断面侵蚀量增加、淤积量减少,而六股河口北侧相反。研究认为,岸线自然形态差异及其造成的沿岸输沙差异是导致不同岸段蚀淤差异的主要自然原因。海岸封闭性建筑物(尤其是突堤)影响了海滩局部断面蚀淤变化。海滩地貌及蚀淤的季节或区域变化的主要原因为沿岸波浪特征等因素的季节性和区域性差异。 相似文献
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广东水东湾弧形海岸切线段海滩剖面的过程分析 总被引：8，自引：1，他引：8
本文运用因子分析和交叉谱分析方法对广东水东湾晏镜海滩剖面实测数据进行了地貌过程分析.因子分析结果提取了4个主因子,累积方差达90%.这4个主因子分别代表了碎波带的脊-沟过程、冲流带的滩肩过程、引起后滨面切割的侵蚀性裂流-滩角过程和造成上部滩面净侵蚀的潮汐过程.先前波况对海滩剖面的影响通过交叉谱分析表明,平均海面以上海滩单宽体积变化落后于波能变化1.6-3.4d.海滩剖面动态分析显示平均海面以下是净侵蚀场所,平均海面以上则处于动态平衡.海滩主状态目前为脊-沟或低潮台地的中间类型. 相似文献
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海滩的演变特征是海岸地形动力学研究的一个重要内容。基于在海口湾假日海滩连续33d的地形剖面观测数据和台风前后表层沉积物粒度参数数据, 分析了海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面及沉积物变化特征。利用经验正交函数分析, 得出观测期间海口湾海滩有4个主要模态, 分别对应于涌浪对海滩的建设过程、当地风浪对海滩的侵蚀过程、台风对海滩的侵蚀过程和海滩特征地形的调整过程。研究结果表明: 涌浪和风浪对海滩剖面的作用受到了潮位调制的影响; 海口湾海滩显示出遮蔽型海滩变化特征; 沉积物粒度参数对海滩变化反应敏感, 可以提供丰富的海滩演变信息。 相似文献
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受自然变化和人类活动影响,全球海滩普遍侵蚀。研究基于大量卫星图像评估海滩演变的方法,对于缺乏实测资料的海滩的侵蚀防护具有重要意义。使用1984~2021年的993幅卫星图像,采用聚焦剖面的亚像素海岸线识别方法识别水边线和干湿线位置,进一步得出平均高、低潮线,沟槽中线和沙坝坝顶位置,利用多指标重建汇泉湾海滩地形地貌的时空演变。使用固定地物对Sentinel卫星图像进行了地理精校正,基于海滩实测结果评估了海滩岸线位置误差。结果显示,平均高潮线、沟槽中线和沙坝坝顶的系统误差和随机误差以及平均低潮线的随机误差均较小,但平均低潮线的系统误差偏大。研究结果还揭示青岛汇泉湾海滩近40年的地形和地貌演变主要受人类活动影响。海滩平均高潮线在2003年海滩整治和补沙后由稳定转为蚀退,在2017年海滩补沙后淤进减缓;沙坝和沟槽的演变则与2002年海滩东南部码头拆除有关。建议重视研究区沙坝和沟槽近期变化,定期监测以进一步掌握其演变规律,并向沙坝和沟槽补细砂维护汇泉湾海滩。 相似文献
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受人为工程的影响,相对稳定的岬湾海岸地貌常经历显著的动态调整。本文以粤东靖海湾典型岬湾海岸为例,运用Mc Laren模型、波浪动力场数值模拟、等深线对比、冲淤计算等多种方法,从海岸地貌动力学角度,对人为岬角工程前后岬湾海岸地貌动力过程和冲淤演变进行综合分析。结果表明:1)海岸地貌动力系统内常存在负反馈机制以维持系统的稳定。岬角工程后上岬角防波堤沿SSW延伸,ESE和E向浪经过防波堤时发生绕射,波能削减,湾顶动力减弱,海滩沉积物从下岬角向湾顶反向运移;2)海滩的蚀积状态在工程前后发生了转换,工程前遮蔽段侵蚀、开敞段堆积;工程后遮蔽段堆积、开敞段侵蚀;3)海湾水下地形对岬角工程的响应敏感,工程后海湾水下地形冲淤剧烈。 相似文献
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Antonio H.F. Klein Óscar Ferreira Joao M.A. Dias Moyses G. Tessler Lucas F. Silveira Lindino Benedet Joao T. de Menezes Jose G.N. de Abreu 《Coastal Engineering》2010
This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and São Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay–headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range). 相似文献
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《Marine Geology》2005,216(4):297-314
The concept of beach morphodynamic states has achieved widespread acceptance in the coastal geological literature since its inception in the mid-1980s and expansion in the 1990s. Much of the pioneering work was undertaken in Australia under a range of environmental conditions in microtidal environments and a close empirical relationship between beach 3-dimensional morphology and the Dean's parameter (Hb/WsT) was established. Subsequently, the Relative Tidal Range parameter (Hb/TR) was extended to beaches of all tidal ranges.In this paper, observations are presented from 25 beaches around the north coast of Ireland. These beaches exist on an environmental gradient that encompasses marked tidal and wave energy variability (micro to macrotidal and low to high wave energy). Each beach was visually categorised into one of several established beach states described in the literature, on the basis of field observations. For each beach, the RTR and Dean's parameter were calculated for the immediately antecedent period and used to predict the beach state using published relationships. Observed and predicted beach states were then compared.Comparison of observed and predicted beach states showed that while beaches with observed dissipative morphology typically matched the expected criteria, most other beach states did not. Lack of agreement between predicted and observed beach states has been reported elsewhere and attributed to failings in the RTR and Dean's parameter. In addition, this study identifies geological factors as important constraints on actual beach state. In the majority of beaches studied, inherited geological factors appear to be more important determinants of beach morphology than contemporary dynamics. 相似文献
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Distribution patterns of interstitial polychaetes in sandy beaches of southern Brazil 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This study describes the distribution patterns of interstitial polychaetes along morphodynamic gradients on six exposed sandy beaches in Santa Catarina and Paraná (South Brazil). Three random transects were sampled at two points on each beach, one at the swash and another at the surf zone, in winter and summer conditions. Six sediment replicates were collected at each sampling point using a corer of 4.6 cm internal diameter that removed 10 cm into the sediment. Abundance and composition of interstitial polychaete were correlated to wave height, slope, grain size, CaCO3 , chlorophyll a , omega indexes, temperature and relative tide range using a canonical correspondence analysis (CCA). A factorial ANOVA showed that taxa richness, mean density and Shannon's diversity were significantly higher at the reflective beaches, but average values differ significantly between transects and these differences change according to the beach zones on both sampling dates. PERMANOVA showed that polychaete associations differ among transects according to the beach zones. The composition of interstitial polychaete associations was significantly correlated to beach morphodynamics and features (P < 0.01). Polychaete associations of reflective beaches were more diverse than in other morphodynamic states. Intermediate beaches may also sustain diverse associations due to temporal variability of the morphodynamic patterns. Beaches presenting extreme dissipative morphodynamics and compacted sediments appear to be unfavourable for the occurrence of interstitial polychaetes. 相似文献
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Sandy beaches have been identified as threatened ecosystems but despite the need to conserve them, they have been generally overlooked. Systematic conservation planning (SCP) has emerged as an efficient method of selecting areas for conservation priority. However, SCP analyses require digital shapefiles of habitat and species diversity. Mapping these attributes for beaches from field data can take years and requires exhaustive resources. This study thus sought to derive a methodology to classify and map beach morphodynamic types from satellite imagery. Since beach morphodynamics is a strong predictor of macrofauna diversity, they could be considered a good surrogate for mapping beach biodiversity. A dataset was generated for 45 microtidal beaches (of known morphodynamic type) by measuring or coding for several physical characteristics from imagery acquired from Google Earth. Conditional inference trees revealed beach width to be the only factor that significantly predicted beach morphodynamic type, giving four categories: dissipative, dissipative-intermediate, intermediate and reflective. The derived model was tested by using it to predict the morphodynamic type of 28 other beaches of known classification. Model performance was good (75% prediction accuracy) but misclassifications occurred at the three breaks between the four categories. For beaches around these breaks, consideration of surf zone characteristics in addition to beach width ameliorated the misclassifications. The final methodology yielded a 93% prediction accuracy of beach morphodynamic type. Overlaying other considerations on this classification scheme could provide additional value to the layer, such that it also describes species’ spatial patterns. These could include: biogeographic regions, estuarine versus sandy beaches and short versus long beaches. The classification scheme was applied to the South African shoreline as a case study. The distribution of the beach morphodynamic types was partly influenced by geography. Most of the long, dissipative beaches are found along the west coast of the country, the south coast beaches are mostly dissipative-intermediate, and the east coast beaches range from short, estuarine pocket and embayed beaches in the former Transkei (south east), to longer intermediate and reflective beaches in KwaZulu-Natal (in the north east). Once combined with the three biogeographic regions, and distinguishing between estuarine and sandy shores, the South African coast comprised 24 different beach types. Representing shorelines in this form opens up potential for numerous spatial analyses that can not only further our understanding of sandy beach ecology at large spatial scales but also aid in deriving conservation strategies for this threatened ecosystem. 相似文献
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Beach morphology relates the mutual adjustment between topography and fluid dynamics. The morphological makeup of beach systems
is not accidental because the arrangement and association of forms occur in an organized contextual space and time. Since
the classification derived by Wright and Short (1983) from the analysis of the evolution in a number of Southern Tamilnadu
beach sites, beach systems are comprehended in terms of three-dimensional morphodynamic models that include quantitative parameters
(wave breaking height, sediment fall velocity, wave period, and beach slope) and boundary conditions for definable form-processes
association (e.g., the presence or absence of bars as well as their types). This has led to the classification of beaches
into three main categories relating the beach state observations with the physical forcing (Short, 1999) dissipative, intermediate
(from the intermediate–dissipative domain to the intermediate-reflective domain), and reflective modes. The morphodynamic
classification of beach types was based on the Wright–Short equations (1984) (dimensionless fall velocity–Dean parameter). 相似文献
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Identifying storm impacts on an embayed, high-energy coastline: examples from western Ireland 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
J. A. G. Cooper D. W. T. Jackson F. Navas J. McKenna G. Malvarez 《Marine Geology》2004,210(1-4):261-280
Large sections of the western Irish coast are characterised by a highly compartmentalised series of headland-embayment cells in which sand and gravel beaches are backed by large vegetated dune systems. Exposure to modally high-energy swell renders most of these beaches dissipative in character. A mesotidal range (c. 3.5–4.5 m) exists along much of the coast. Analysis of instrumental wind records from three locations permitted the identification of a variety of storm types and the construction of storm catalogues. Few individual storms were recorded at all three stations indicating a lack of regional consistency in storm record. Of the total storms recorded, only a small percentage are potentially damaging (onshore directed) and even fewer span a high tide and thus potentially induce a measurable morphological response at the coast.
Through a combination of historical records, meteorological records, field observations and wave modelling we attempt to assess the impact of storms. Quantifiable records of coastal morphology (maps, air photos and beach profiles) are few in number and do not generally record responses that may be definitely attributed to specific storms. Numerical wave simulations and observations at a variety of sites on the west Irish coast, however, provide insights into instantaneous and medium term (decadal) storm responses in such systems.
We argue that beaches and dunes that are attuned to modally high-energy regimes require extreme storms to cause significant morphological impact. The varying orientation of beaches, a spatially nonuniform storm catalogue and the need for a storm to occur at high water to produce measurable change, impart site-specific storm susceptibility to these embayments. Furthermore, we argue that long-period wave energy attenuation across dissipative shorefaces and beaches reduces coastal response to distant storms whereas short-period, locally generated wind waves are more likely to cause major dune and beach erosion as they arrive at the shoreline unrefracted.
This apparently variable response of beach and dune systems to storm forcing at a decadal scale over a coastline length of 200 km urges caution in generalising regarding regional-scale coastal responses to climatic change. 相似文献
17.
《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,56(3-4):459-468
The species composition, densities, biomass and zonation patterns of the macrobenthos of sandy beaches are greatly influenced by the morphodynamics and morphology of the beaches. Macrobenthic zonation patterns along a small-scale morphodynamic gradient, comprising eight Belgian beach sites, were investigated. By taking into account the dimensionless fall velocity (Ω) and the relative tidal range, the beach sites were ordered along the gradient from the ultra-dissipative beach type (UD) to the low tide bar/rip beach type (LTBR). The resulting beach state index varied between 1.8 and 4.2 and the beach profiles were related with the beaches' morphodynamic state.In total 35 macrobenthic species, mainly polychaetes and crustaceans, were encountered, varying between 19 and 23 species per beach site. The species composition was quite similar among beach sites, with Scolelepis squamata being abundant at all eight sites. Furthermore, the macrobenthic distribution patterns were mainly related to elevation at all beach sites. Some remarkable difference in metrics, largely related to the beach morphodynamics and the consequent hydrodynamics, were found. At the hydrodynamically benign and consequently macrobenthos-rich UD beaches, the highest macrobenthic densities and biomass occurred on the upper beach, while at the hydrodynamically harsh and thus macrobenthos-poor LTBR beaches, the maximum densities and biomass occurred lower on the beach. Species, typically occurring on the upper UD beaches, such as Eurydice pulchra, S. squamata, and Bathyporeia sarsi, were restricted to the sub-optimal middle and lower beach zone at LTBR beaches. Only Bathyporeia pilosa was found on the upper beach of both UD and LTBR beaches. The more robust polychaete Ophelia rathkei and the interstitial polychaete Hesionides arenaria were exclusively found in the hydrodynamically harsh conditions of the middle LTBR beach zone. 相似文献
18.
Headland-bay beach equilibrium planform has been a crucial problem abroad to long-term sandy beach evolution and stabilization,extensively applied to forecast long-term coastal erosion evolvement and the influences of coastal engineering as well as long-term coastal management and protection.However,little concern focuses on this in China.The parabolic relationship is the most widely used empirical relationship for determining the static equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches.This paper utilizes the relation to predict and classify 31 headland-bay beaches and concludes that these bays cannot achieve the ultimate static equilibrium planform in South China.The empirical bay equation can morphologically estimate beach stabilization state,but it is just a referential predictable means and is difficult to evaluate headland-bay shoreline movements in years and decades.By using Digital Shoreline Analysis System suggested by USGS,the rates of shoreline recession and accretion of these different headland-bay beaches are quantitatively calculated from 1990 to 2000.The conclusions of this paper include that (a) most of these 31 bays maintain relatively stable and the rates of erosion and accretion are relatively large with the impact of man-made constructions on estuarine within these bays from 1990 to 2000;(b) two bays,Haimen Bay and Hailingshan Bay,originally in the quasi-static equilibrium planform determined by the parabolic bay shape equation,have been unstable by the influence of coastal engineering;and (c) these 31 bays have different recession and accretion characters occurring in some bays and some segments.On the one hand,some bays totally exhibit accretion,but some bays show erosion on the whole.Shanwei Bay,Houmen Bay,Pinghai Bay and Yazhou Bay have the similar planforms,characterized by less accretion on the sheltering segment and bigger accretion on the transitional and tangential segments.On the other hand,different segments of some bays have two dissimilar evolvement characters.Dacheng Bay,Shenquan Bay,Hudong Bay,Wukan Bay,Fengjia Bay,Wuchang Bay,Lingshui Bay and Tufu Bay produce accretion on the tangential segment,erosion on the transitional segment and accretion on the sheltering segment.However,Guang’ao Bay,Haimen Bay,Jinghai Bay,Sanya Bay(a),Dajiao Bay,Hailingshan Bay,Hebei Bay,Fuhu Bay,Shuidong Bay,Wangcun Bay and Bomao Bay generate erosion on the tangential part,accretion on the transitional part and accretion on the sheltering part.It seems to imply some relations between headland-bay beach evolvement and controls on headland-bay beaches,which may possibly to classify headland-bay beach types and should be further studied. 相似文献
19.
极端高能事件影响下的海滩动力地貌过程直接关乎岸滩稳定及海堤安全。本文基于2020年16号台风“浪卡”前后北海银滩顺直岸段的剖面高程及表层沉积物等资料, 探究了中等潮差的顺直响应台风作用的地貌变化机制。结果表明: 1) 台风后海滩地貌表现为冲流带的大型沙坝消失, 后滨沙丘-滩槽体系被削平, 滩面坡度趋于平缓。2) 银滩沉积物均以中砂、细砂和极细砂为主, 三者占比超过95%; 台风后, 高潮位带沉积物变细, 低潮位带沉积物变粗, 沙坝附近则出现粗细交错式变化; 银滩中高潮位带滩面响应台风过程的特征与强潮型海滩相似, 呈现消散型海滩的特征, 而低潮位带滩面则因大型沙坝的作用而呈现弱潮型海滩特征。3) 台风期间波浪是影响海滩的主要动力因素, 海滩地形影响了近岸水动力的表现形式, 从而改变了沉积物的粒径分布。 相似文献