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1.
This study introduces three typical models on equilibrium beach profile, and discusses the application limitations of these models. Then this study examines the selections for applying these models on different coastal segments of a headland-bay beach in west Guangdong, South China, and explores the physical significances of those parameters in the models. The results indicate that: (1) Bodge’s model is more in line with the equilibrium beach profile of the tangential or transitional segment, whereas Lee’s model is more consistent with the shadow profile; (2) most of the parameters in three models have clear physical significances in accordance with the actual characteristics of this headland-bay beach; and (3) both the selections for the equilibrium beach profile from different segments and significances of most of the parameters in three models are in essence correlated with the morphodynamic states at various coastal locations. 相似文献
2.
深圳大鹏半岛南岸西冲海滩的沉积物来源、平面形态稳定性及横向变化 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The coast of the Dapeng Peninsula has been honored as one of "the eight most beautiful coasts in China". The most precious tourism resource for the peninsula is headland bay beaches, among which the beach at Xichong on the southern coast of the peninsula is the longest and the most important one. The information of the stability, sedimentary source and shape change of the beach is very important for maintaining the beach in terms of sustainable development of the peninsula. Heavy minerals in the sand of the beach and the inland stream at Xichong are compared with those of a nearby beach on the same coast to determine the beach sand source; with help of a computer software, MEPBAY, the equilibrium planforms of the beaches on the peninsula are compared with those of an island without rivers to evaluate the stream’s effects on the beach stability; cross shore profiles along the Xichong beach are also surveyed in different seasons of a year to assess the annual shore normal beach changes affected by the stream input, and the relation between the equilibrium planform state and cross shore changes of the beach. It is shown that(1) stream is the main sedimentary source of the beach and the weathering materials of the rocky headlands on both sides of the bay transported by waves are the second source for the beach but it is limited, sand from an inner shelf is not the sedimentary source for the beach at present and was not even during the Holocene transgression;(2) the Xichong beach cannot reach static equilibrium around the entire bay shoreline, the segment of the shoreline where a stream outlet is located is in dynamic equilibrium, and the unstable section occurs in the wave shadow region in the lee of an offshore island;(3) no matter whether the section of the beach shoreline at Xichong is in an equilibrium state or not, it is eroded in the typhoon season and recovered after the season, the maximum change in erosion and accretion occurs in the unstable segment;(4) the Xichong beach can only have small sand body since it is supplied with sand mainly form inland streams, resulting in a possible danger in which sand loss induced by human activities or huge storms cannot be replenished naturally. 相似文献
3.
Evolution history and trend of the modern Huanghe River Delta 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：2
The evolvement history of modern Huanghe River Delta tidal flat, coastline and underwater terrain were studied based on the analysis of remote sensing images and water depth data. Based on the analysis of seafloor terrain evolution on different historical stages, a formula simulating the erosion and deposition evolvement model of subaqueous Huanghe River Delta slope was proposed, and the evolvement trend of the subaqueous delta terrain was predicted. The result shows that the equilibrium transition zone is near the water depth of 12 m with seabed erosion in shallower water and accumulation in deeper water during the first 150 a after the river channel was deserted. In the meantime, the underwater slope became gentler and the coastal erosion rate became slow gradually. Then, the subaqueous delta slope changed to up concave from upper convex, and the shape of subaqueous delta disappeared. The coast type changed to silt-mud coast about 100-150 a after the river course was deserted. The erosion depth in the foot of the seawall is calculated based on the formula. 相似文献
4.
Natural beaches tend to be concave-up rather than planar and are reasonable to be modeled by an equilibrium beach profile. A governing equation for longshore current on an equilibrium beach is derived and its analytical solution is given in this paper. Through comparisons of the present solution and field data of longshore current for a step-type beach, the present solution is found to have fairly agreeable prediction to longshore current inside the surf zone. The effects of the shape of a concave-up beach and turbulent mixing stress on longshore current inside the surf zone are discussed in the present paper. 相似文献
5.
This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding of infragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave parameters and pressure inside and outside of the surf zone during the dry and rainy period in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar (both dissipative and eroded beaches) located in the Colombian Caribbean coast. Based on these measurements, we have carried out a spectral analysis in order to identify the frequency components that characterize the wave and its energy; thus, we identified the characteristic frequencies of infragravity waves to finally filter the infragravity signal on each beach in different seasonal periods. Among the results of the Welch spectrum applied to surface elevation time series, we found that, the frequencies'' energy of the sea-swell band decreases due to bottom friction and wave breaking as the wave approaches the shore, while the frequencies'' energy of the infragravity band increases significantly. In addition, for the wavelet analysis, we could observe how the energy of the infragravity band, especially the lowest frequencies gain energy as the waves approaches the coast. Furthermore, based on the infragravity wave obtained from the extreme wave event registered during the field campaign we can conclude that the contribution of this signal is important in the erosion problems presented in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar. Finally, these results show the need to realize other studies that allow us to understand deeply, the role of infragravity waves on the morphological changes that occurs in these beaches. 相似文献
6.
- Studies on the erosion processes and protective measures at the downcoast of the Friendship Port in Mauritania have been successfully conducted by means of 3-D movable-bed model using light model-sand. The headland control was accepted for the stability of the beach. This paper mainly deals with the shape, orientation, size and erosion depth of the artificial headland. Various forms of headland projects, such as the normal groin, arch groins bending to upcoast ancj to downcoast, offshore breakwater, and T-shaped dike, have been experimentally investigated. Through a comparison of effects of these works on the beach processes, optimized headlands have been obtained, that is, unsymmetrical T-shaped dike or arch groin bending to the downcoast, which has been practically and successfully applied for the stability of beaches. 相似文献
7.
Beach profiles characteristics along Giao Thuy and Hai Hau coasts, Vietnam: A field study 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Giao Thuy and Hai Hau coasts are located in Nam Dinh province, Vietnam, with a total coastline of 54.42 km in length. The sea-dike system has been seriously damaged and there have been many dike breaches which caused floods and losses. This situation is considered of a general representative for coastal area in the northern part of Vietnam. A variety of studies have shown that the gradient in the longshore sediment transport rate and the offshore ?ne sediment lost are the main mechanisms causing the beach erosion. This study presents a field investigation of the beach profiles at Giao Thuy and Hai Hau beaches. Three types of empirical functions for the equilibrium beach profile are applied and compared with the observations. Results show that all observed beach pro?les can be described by a single function. However, one specific equilibrium pro?le equation is not sufficient to assess all beach pro?les. In Section 1 of Giao Thuy and Section 3 of Hai Thinh beaches, beach profiles are consistent with the logarithmic function, while the exponential function fits well in Section 2. This difference is explained with respect to coastal morphology, sediment characteristics and hydrodynamic conditions which vary in site. An analysis of the validity of the beach profile functions is recommended for the numerical modeling and engineering designs in this area. 相似文献
8.
Based on the analysis and observations of wave, current and beach process in the coastal area of Lusi, it is concluded that the main cause for erosion in this region is the decrement of sediment supply. The sediment in a shoaling area can easily be disturbed under the action of waves and can be carried to the open sea by the cunent in those shoaling areas mainly with ebb tidal flows. The direction of sediment transport is from west to east.With the consideration of the continuous beach erosion, the major task for beach protection in the future is to protect the beach and accelerate accumulation. On the ground that wave and cunent are the important factors of erosion, suggestions are made to construct regulating works to protect the beach and accelerate accumulation with the combination of detached dyke and groin. 相似文献
9.
Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Wu Guiqiu Li Wei Professor First Institute of Oceanography State Oceanic Administration Qingdao Associate Researcher 《中国海洋工程》1994,(2)
-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion. 相似文献
10.
Since coastal areas have highly dynamic nature and are one of the most beneficial regions of civilizations,it is of great significance to understand their characteristics and behavior.Changes in shorelines in the form of accretion and erosion can leave devastating effects on businesses and cities located along the shore.In this study,we statistically calculated the tendency of shoreline changes by processing and analyzing historical satellite images of Boushehr Province,Iran.Results show that these shores have experienced both sedimentation and erosion in the past 30 years.Net shoreline movement presents more than 350 m of erosion and 650 m of accretion,which are corresponded to change rates of almost 12 and 22 m/a,respectively.Statistics of shoreline changes are calculated from regression methods including end point rate,linear regression rate,weighted linear regression,and least median of squares.The best-performed method is applied to predict the shoreline position in 2050 and 2100.Potential locations of excessive changes are identified for the predicted shorelines,which should be dealt with properly. 相似文献
11.
Headland-bay beaches are a typical feature of many of the world's coastlines. Their curved planform has aroused much interest since the early days of Coastal Engineering. Modelling this characteristic planform is a task of great interest, not least in relation to projects of coastal structures whose effects on the shoreline must be studied from the planning stages. In this work, Artificial Intelligence is applied to this task—in particular, artificial neural networks (ANNs). Unlike conventional planform models, they are not based on a given mathematical expression of the shoreline curve. Instead, they learn from experience (from a number of training cases) how the planform of a headland-bay beach is shaped, with due regard to the obliquity of incident waves. Three artificial neural networks, with different input/output structures, are implemented and subsequently trained with a number of bays. Once trained, they are tested for validation on other headland-bay beaches. Finally, the most performing neural network is compared with a state-of-the-art planform model. 相似文献
12.
华南水东湾波控、中等潮差岬湾海滩地形动力分类 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海滩地形动力分类在国外的海岸地貌研究中已经被广泛接受。本文使用了华南粤西水东湾切线带、过渡带和遮蔽带海滩连续16个月32次大潮期间同步获取的波浪、潮汐、泥沙和海滩地形数据,分别按照无量纲沉降参数、相对潮差参数和无量纲海湾尺度参数对这一岬湾海滩不同岸段的海滩类型进行了研究,研究发现：（1）水东湾切线带海滩的主要状态为有裂流的低潮台地状态和沙坝型海滩状态,过渡带海滩主要状态是低潮沙坝/裂流海滩和沙坝消散型状态,遮蔽带海滩主要状态是有或无沙坝的消散型状态;（2）海湾不同岸段海滩状态的顺序变化与差异体现了岬湾海滩状态的时空变化性,与现场观测的海滩地形的变化基本一致,说明了对波控中到强潮海滩进行研究时,需要考虑潮汐的影响。同时,本文主要给出了海滩状态研究的一个框架体系,由于海滩不同的状态伴随不同的侵蚀模式,要求我国今后需加强在这一方面研究,以进一步丰富我国海滩地形演变、海滩地形动力过程和海滩防侵蚀的理论基础。 相似文献
13.
海南万宁岬湾海岸海滩稳定性研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
岬湾海岸海滩的稳定性及其演变是砂质海岸研究的重要内容。基于多期遥感影像、海滩沉积物粒度分布,并采用岬湾海滩平衡形态模型(MEPBAY),分析探讨了海南岛东部万宁4个典型岬湾海岸海滩的稳定性及其模型的应用。研究表明,除东澳湾凸角处于不稳定状态,其余海岸处于静态或准静态平衡状态;岬湾海滩沉积物粒度在遮蔽段和开敞段有明显的差异,相邻海滩之间没有明显的泥沙交换,每个岬湾海滩都是相对独立的地貌单元;模型中上岬角控制点选取应考虑岛礁及水下礁坪;抛物线模型可以拓展应用于有离岸岛情况下的海湾。研究成果可为岬湾海滩的稳定性评估和管理提供科学依据。 相似文献
14.
Equilibrium headland-bay beach systems have been mathematically described by logarithmic, parabolic and hyperbolic curve functions. The largest system of this type reported to date has a shoreline length of about 62 km. In the present study, an apparent headland-bay system is presented which has a shoreline length of about 500 km. It was discovered on satellite images, and is located between Cabo de Santa Maria in Portugal and the coastal city of Rabat in Morocco. It appears to be controlled by long-period North Atlantic swells diffracting around Cabo São Vicente at the south-western tip of Portugal, in combination with SW–SE wind wave climates impinging on the northern shoreline of Cádiz Bay. The coast shows two marked departures from the equilibrium shoreline along its central section north and south of the Strait of Gibraltar, which are easily explained. Thus, the promontories to the north of the strait still exist because there has not been sufficient time to erode these back to the equilibrium shoreline since postglacial sea-level recovery. The coastal indentation to the south is explained by an insufficient sediment supply from terrestrial sources to facilitate the required beach accretion. Perfectly adjusted planimetric headland-bay shoreline shapes represent situations where wave orthogonals approach the coast at right angles everywhere, i.e. there is no longer any alongshore sediment transport. Equilibrium shorelines form independently of the grain size of the beach sediment, whereas morphodynamic beach states are indirectly affected by the shoreline shapes because the latter are modulated by wave period and breaker height which also control the morphodynamic response of the beach in combination with the local grain size. 相似文献
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16.
我国硬式护岸、渔港工程和人工岛等3类典型海岸工程对相邻海滩有显著影响.本研究以泉州青山湾护岸、泉州崇武中心渔港、海口南海明珠人工岛等建设前后海滩变化为例,开展对海滩岸线形态及部分典型剖面形态的对比分析.结果表明,临海硬式护岸岸前海滩发生明显下蚀,护岸下游海滩岸线侵蚀后退,发育侵蚀热点,剖面伴有下蚀;渔港工程拦沙堤附近岸线局部淤涨,下游海滩岸线大范围侵蚀后退,出现侵蚀热点,侵蚀热点处剖面明显下蚀;人工岛后波影区内海滩淤积,形成沙岬或连岛沙坝突出体,突出体两侧岸线均发生不同程度侵蚀后退.通过分析典型工程案例,探讨了3类海岸工程对相邻海滩的影响方式、影响尺度和原因,对比分析不同类型海岸工程对相邻海滩的负面影响,可为海岸工程建设管理和海滩保护提供参考. 相似文献
17.
Juvenile sandhoppers (Talitrus saltator Montagu 1808; Crustacea: Amphipoda) were tested under natural conditions to examine their ability to orient to the sun and local features. Experiments were carried out on two Italian sandy beaches subject to different geomorphological dynamics, one under erosion from the sea and the other one under morphodynamic equilibrium (between erosion and accretion). Laboratory-born samples of each population were tested on their beach of origin and compared with wild individuals of the same age; other laboratory-born samples were tested on both beaches, that of origin and the other beach. The population from the beach displaying geomorphologic equilibrium, oriented seawards on both beaches, referring to the sun and the local landscape, while the population from the beach under erosion tended to orient to prominent landscape features on both beaches displaying a scototaxis. These results showed the importance of orientation to local landscape features in young inexpert talitrids, and the innateness of this behaviour in natural populations when shoreline stability allows for a genetic stabilisation of orientation mechanisms. 相似文献
18.
人工岛作为一种新兴的海岸工程, 它的建设所引起的岸滩冲淤和防护问题日益受到人们的关注。本文以海南万宁市日月湾人工岛为例, 通过4期实测海滩剖面数据和多时相遥感影像, 分析了冬季波浪与人工岛联合作用对日月湾海滩冲淤变化的影响, 并结合海区波况, 探究了海滩冲淤变化机理。研究表明, 日月湾海区冬半年的平均有效波高与波浪周期明显强于夏半年, 且波浪强度整体上呈现逐年上升的趋势, 但在人工岛建设前后变化幅度较小; 人工岛建设对海滩地貌变化有强烈影响, 海滩呈现出岛后淤积而两侧侵蚀的显著特征, 岛影区海滩不断淤积, 岸线向海淤进达200m, 甚至可能与人工岛相连形成连岛沙坝, 人工岛后两侧海滩侵蚀, 岸线向陆一侧蚀退最大距离达50m; 海滩在冬季波浪和人工岛共同影响下, 岸滩自北向南依次表现为稳定、侵蚀、淤积、相对稳定、略有侵蚀或淤积、侵蚀、淤积的冲淤变化特征。 相似文献
19.
The empirical bay shape model proposed by Hsu and Evans in 1989 for predicting the static planform of a pocket beach is expanded to enable the calculation of three-dimensional beach changes on a pocket beach with a seawall. The original formulation was developed on the basis of a second-order regression analysis. Unlike the one-line model of shoreline changes, the model of Hsu and Evans does not require repeated calculations of the wave field and shoreline position, because it was derived on the assumption of null sediment movement within a pocket beach in static equilibrium, hence without the need of applying the continuity condition of total sand volume in the calculation. The expanded model proposed by the present authors satisfies the total sand budget on a pocket beach, by taking into account the concept of depth change due to longshore sand transport. Model tests were carried out and the new model was further applied to the beach changes at Kemigawa on the northeast of Tokyo Bay in Chiba Prefecture, as well as at Oarai in Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan. On both locations, seawall has been installed as countermeasures against beach erosion, where wave sheltering effect of the main breakwater and beach changes in front of the seawall has also been observed. With this expansion, the present model can be applied to predict the three-dimensional beach changes on a coast with seawall on a pocket beach. 相似文献