共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 97 毫秒
1.
A simple numerical model, based on the Reynolds stress equations and k–ε turbulence closure scheme, is developed for the coastal wave and current bottom boundary layer. The current friction velocity is introduced to account for the effect of currents on waves. The implicit Crank–Nicolson finite difference method discretizes the governing equations. Vertical changing step grids with the constant ratio for two adjacent spatial steps are used together with the equal time steps in the modeling. Vertical profiles of mean current velocity and wave velocity amplitude are obtained. These modeled results are compared with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands]. It has been shown that modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) mean velocity profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) wave velocity amplitude profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled wave velocity amplitudes are in good agreement with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands]. 相似文献
2.
Improved representation of breaking wave energy dissipation in parametric wave transformation models
An improved formulation to describe breaking wave energy dissipation is presented and incorporated into a previous parametric cross-shore wave transformation model [Baldock, T.E., Holmes, P., Bunker, S., Van Weert, P., 1998. Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coastal Engineering 34, 173–196]. The new formulation accounts for a term in the bore dissipation equation neglected in some previous modelling, but which is shown to be important in the inner surf zone. The only free model parameter remains the choice of γ, the ratio of wave height to water depth at initial breaking, and a well-established standard parameter is used for all model runs. The proposed model is compared to three sets of experimental data and a previous version of the model which was extensively calibrated against field and laboratory data. The model is also compared to the widely used model presented by Thornton and Guza (1983) [Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. Journal of Geophysical Research 88 (No.C10), 5925–5938]. 相似文献
3.
The horizontal exchange of momentum due to the organized motion in combined waves and current has been analyzed. The combination of the vertical orbital wave motion and the mean current gives a periodic variation in the horizontal velocity in addition to the wave orbital motion. This periodic variation, combined with the wave orbital motion, gives a significant contribution to the momentum exchange. Two examples are considered, the interaction of a pure wave motion and a current normal to the direction of wave propagation, and a wave driven longshore current with an undertow velocity profile. It is demonstrated that the new contribution changes the resulting momentum exchange considerably. 相似文献
4.
John B. Christoffersen 《Ocean Engineering》1985,12(5):387-423
Two simple two-layer eddy viscosity models, which facilitate analytical solutions, are presented in order to describe the velocity field and associated shear stress in a combined current wave motion. The models, which have the same eddy viscosity in the current boundary layer, but different eddy viscosities in the wave boundary layer, cover together the whole rough turbulent regime. Straightforward definitions are made for the wave friction factor and the current friction factor for the combined motion, which are in accordance with the results for pure waves and pure currents. In this way one avoids the fictitious reference velocities and elliptic integrals which e.g. Grant and Madsen (1978, 1979) experienced. The two friction factors turn out to be functions of four dimensionless parameters. A detailed calculation procedure is presented. Comparison with laboratory experiments yields promising results. A new relation connecting dissipation and bed shear stress is also developed. 相似文献
5.
J.S.M. van Thiel de Vries M.R.A. van Gent D.J.R. Walstra A.J.H.M. Reniers 《Coastal Engineering》2008,55(12):1028-1040
Large-scale physical model tests were conducted with different wave periods to examine the physical processes driving dune erosion. The model tests have been carried out in a flume (2DV) with a sandy dune exposed to extreme surge and wave conditions [Van Gent, M.R.A., Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., Coeveld, E.M., De Vroeg, J.H. and Van de Graaff, J., 2008. Large-scale dune erosion tests to study the effect of wave periods. Coastal Engineering. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.04.003.]. Detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near shore area. The data revealed that both short- and long waves are important to inner surf hydrodynamics. Depth averaged flows are directed offshore and increase towards the shore line. The corresponding mean sediment concentrations rise sharply towards the dune face (up to 50 g/l near the bed). The strong increase in the mean sediment concentration towards the dune face correlates well with the maximum wave surface slope which in turn is coupled to both the pressure gradient and the near-bed wave-breaking induced turbulence. Analysis shows that the pressure gradient is only partially coupled to the flow acceleration suggesting that the latter cannot always be used as a proxy for the first. Weak correlation is obtained with the near-bed flows related to the bed shear stress. Tests with a larger wave period resulted in a larger dune erosion volume. During these tests more wave energy (combined incident and infragravity waves) reached the dune face, but more importantly, this wave energy is dissipated by fewer waves resulting in more intense wave breakers and steeper wave fronts. It is therefore expected that the wave-breaking induced near-bed turbulence increases resulting in significantly higher (O(100%)) mean sediment concentrations. In addition the mean flow velocities are comparable, yielding a substantially larger offshore directed sediment transport capacity. This increase in offshore directed transport is only partially compensated by a concurrent increase in the wave related onshore transport capacity associated with intrawave processes, resulting in a net increase in the dune erosion rate. 相似文献
6.
This study presents the results of the decoupling of a free-roll decay test by wavelet transforms. A free-roll decay test was performed to determine the coefficients of damping terms in equations of motion. No motion of the model was restricted during the experiment. A slight yaw motion was found while the model was in the free-roll decay motion. It was necessary to extract a pure roll motion from the experimental data. Wavelet transforms were applied to the signals to extract the pure roll motion. The results were compared to those found through the Fourier transform. Discrete wavelet transforms were able to efficiently decouple the test signals, while the continuous wavelet transform and the Fourier transform could not. 相似文献
7.
The ocean drift current consists of a (local) pure drift current generated by the interaction of wind and waves at the sea surface, to which the surface geostrophic current is added vectorially. We present (a) a similarity solution for the wave boundary layer (which has been validated through the prediction of the 10-m drag law), from which the component of pure drift current along the direction of the wind (and hence the speed factor) can be evaluated from the 10-m wind speed and the peak wave period, and (b) a similarity solution for the Ekman layers of the two fluids, which shows that under steady-state neutral conditions the pure drift current lies along the direction of the geostrophic wind, and has a magnitude 0.034 that of the geostrophic wind speed. The co-existence of these two similarity solutions indicates that the frictional properties of the coupled air-sea system are easily evaluated functions of the 10-m wind speed and the peak wave period, and also leads to a simple expression for the angle of deflection of the pure drift current to the 10 m wind. The analysis provides a dynamical model for global ocean drift on monthly and annual time scales for which the steady-state neutral model is a good approximation. In particular, the theoretical results appear to be able to successfully predict the mean surface drift measured by HF Radar, which at present is the best technique for studying the near surface velocity profile. 相似文献
8.
Lisham Bonakdar 《Ocean Engineering》2011,38(1):111-118
Prediction of run-up level is a key task in design of the coastal structures. For the design of the crest level of coastal structures, the wave run-up level with a 2% exceedance probability, Ru2%, is most commonly used. In this study, the performance of M5 model tree for prediction of the wave run-up on rubble-mound structures was investigated. The main advantage of model trees, unlike the other soft computing tools, is their easier use and more importantly their understandable mathematical rules. Experimental data set of Van der Meer and Stam was used for developing model trees. The conventional governing parameters were selected as the input variables and the obtained results were compared with Van der Meer and Stam’s formula, recommended by the Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM, 2006). The predictive accuracy of the model tree approach was found to be superior to that of Van der Meer and Stam’s empirical formula. Furthermore, to judge the generalization capability of the model tree method, the model developed based on laboratory data set was validated with the prototype run-up measurements on the Zeebrugge breakwater, Belgium. Results show that the model tree is more accurate than empirical formulas and TS Fuzzy approach in estimating the full-scale run-up. 相似文献
9.
为了有效地考虑浮体慢漂运动对钢悬链线立管疲劳损伤的影响,提出了波频和慢漂运动组合作用下钢悬链线立管疲劳损伤简化计算的位置组合叠加法。其核心是:基于浮体慢漂运动概率分布选取若干典型慢漂位置,进行波频运动作用下钢悬链线立管动力响应分析;根据钢悬链线立管运动位置变化特征,截取若干慢漂位置对应的波频应力时程叠加到慢漂应力时程上,得到波频和慢漂运动的组合应力时程;编写基于雨流计数法的MATLAB程序处理立管各节点应力,采用海水环境下Do E.E型S-N曲线和Palmgren-Miner累积损伤准则计算立管各节点疲劳损伤。应用位置组合叠加法对某海域500 m水深的立管进行了疲劳分析,并与全耦合法、权重组合叠加法以及波频和慢漂疲劳损伤简单相加法的结果进行了对比,结果表明该方法具有较高的精度和效率。此外,进行了区域设定系数、波浪高度、波浪周期和土壤表面剪切强度等参数对组合作用下立管疲劳损伤的敏感性分析。 相似文献
10.
On the basis of the previous studies, the simplest hyperbolic mild-slope equation has been gained and the linear time-dependent numerical model for the water wave propagation has been established combined with different boundary conditions. Through computing the effective surface displacement and transforming into the real transient wave motion, related wave factors will be calculated. Compared with Lin’s model, analysis shows that calculation stability of the present model is enhanced efficiently, because the truncation errors of this model are only contributed by the dissipation terms, but those of Lin’s model are induced by the convection terms, dissipation terms and source terms. The tests show that the present model succeeds the merit in Lin’s model and the computational program is simpler, the computational time is shorter, and the computational stability is enhanced efficiently. The present model has the capability of simulating transient wave motion by correctly predicting at the speed of wave propagation, which is important for the real-time forecast of the arrival time of surface waves generated in the deep sea. The model is validated against analytical solution for wave diffraction and experimental data for combined wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope. Good agreements are obtained. The model can be applied to the theory research an d engineering applications about the wave propagation in a biggish area. 相似文献
11.
渤海重现期波高的数值计算 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用RAMS大气模式给出的20年风场资料,利用SWAN近海波浪模式对渤海海域的波浪进行了20 a数值计算.通过与一般过程和大风过程的实测资料的对比后发现.波浪模拟值与实潮值符合地较好,SWAN模式适合渤海海域波浪的计算。通过分析发现.辽东湾常浪向为SSW。强浪向为SSW;渤海中部常浪向为S,强浪向为NE;渤海海峡常浪向为NNW,强浪向为NNW;莱州湾常浪向为S,强浪向为NNE;渤海湾常浪向为S.强浪向为NE。渤中偏东南海域(38°～39°N,119.5°～120.5°E)多年一遇有效波高最大.其中百年一遇有效波高最大值达到6.7m。 相似文献
12.
Numerical study of combined overflow and wave overtopping over a smooth impermeable seawall 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A numerical wave flume is used to investigate the discharge characteristics of combined overflow and wave overtopping of impermeable seawalls. The numerical procedure computes solutions to the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations and includes the generation of an irregular train of waves, the simulation of wave breaking and interaction with a sloping, impermeable wall. The numerical model is first tested against published experimental observations, approximate analytical solutions and empirical design formulae for the cases of pure overflow and pure overtopping. A sequence of numerical experiments simulating combined overflow and overtopping are described. The results are used to determine empirical discharge formulae of the form used in current practice. 相似文献
13.
系泊方柱在畸形波与波群伴生波浪作用下运动响应试验研究 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
畸形波与波群伴生波浪作用于系泊浮体,和常规随机波浪作用比较,运动响应时频域特征均将发生显著变化。基于物理模型试验,采用小波方法计算伴生波浪和常规随机波浪作用下系泊浮体运动响应的时频域特征变化及波群因子与浮体运动响应时频域特征的定量关系。结果表明:伴生波浪作用下浮体运动响应显著大于常规随机波浪的作用结果,且波群因子G A对浮体运动响应时频域特征有显著影响;伴生波浪作用下浮体纵荡运动的广义能量谱E(t)统计特征值E max(t)、E 1/10(t)、E 1/3(t)、E average(t)均明显大于相同波谱下常规随机波浪的结果,且随着波群因子G A增大显著增大;伴生波浪作用下各运动响应能量集中度δE显著大于常规随机波浪作用结果,且能量集中时域分布范围参数ΔT E以纵荡运动分量最为显著。 相似文献
14.
15.
Shinya Minato 《Journal of Oceanography》1982,38(4):225-235
Geostrophic adjustment of a two-layer fluid near a straight coast is investigated for an initial pressure disturbance which has no closed geostrophic contours by using a reduced gravity (divergent barotropic) model. Propagation of a volume of water along the coast due to the internal Kelvin wave allows a non-zero solution for the final geostrophic state. Energy partitions among geostrophic motion, the internal Kelvin wave and internal Poincaré waves are obtained and compared with the result of the classical problem of geostrophic adjustment without the coast. It is found that energy partition to the geostrophic motion (EPG) with the coast is always smaller than that without the coast (EPG
), while the scale of the initial disturbance is the same. The difference betweenEPG andEPG
is smaller than the energy partition to the internal Kelvin waves (EPK) and approachesEPK as the scale of the initial disturbance increases. 相似文献
16.
A numerical method, which combines the boundary element method (BEM) and the volume of the fluid method (VOF method), has been presented to solve wave–structure interactions; the intense wave motion at the proximity of the structure is modeled by the VOF method and the rest of the fluid region is modeled by the BEM. The combined method can considerably reduce the time-consuming VOF domain, and thus practically makes it possible to apply the VOF method for random wave calculations, in which long time computations are usually required to obtain statistically meaningful results, and therefore the use of the single-VOF model often becomes prohibitive in terms of computational time and storage memories. A VOF model CADMAS-SURF, which is based on SMAC scheme and had been constructed by a number of VOF researchers in coastal engineering in Japan, is used in the combined BEM–VOF model. The two-way coupling treatment, which enables us to deal with bidirectional wave propagations, which was originally given for the SOLA-VOF model by Yan et al. (2003a) and later improved by Kim et al. (2007), was modified for the SMAC scheme. The coupling treatments are described in detail in the paper. The validity of the combined BEM–VOF model was investigated by comparing the numerical results with the theoretical results for the propagations of Stokes 5th order waves and random waves. 相似文献
17.
18.
运用改进的椭圆形风场模型,模拟了9711号台风所经地区风场、气压场的变化过程;将椭圆形风场模型结果结合SWAN波浪模型,计算9711台风过程的波要素;运用COHERENS三维水动力模式,对渤、黄海主要的4个潮分量进行了调和分析,建立渤、黄海天文潮预报模型,并采用三级嵌套模型计算并验证分析了日照近海的水文动力环境;运用基于COHERENS发展的水动力悬沙模型COHERENS-SED,计算分析了9711天气过程、仅考虑潮流作用以及累年平均波要素和一般天气情况(累年平均风场、标准大气压)下的悬沙数值模拟.结果表明:考虑潮流、一般波浪和天气因素共同作用下的水体含沙浓度比仅考虑潮流作用下的水体含沙浓度提高40%～100%的幅度;考虑9711号天气过程以及产生的台风浪作用下的水体含沙浓度比一般波浪和天气因素作用下的水体含沙浓度提高约4倍的幅度. 相似文献
19.
Marcel R.A. van Gent Henk F.P. van den Boogaard Beatriz Pozueta Josep R. Medina 《Coastal Engineering》2007
A method has been developed to estimate wave overtopping discharges for a wide range of coastal structures. The prediction method is based on Neural Network modelling. For this purpose use is made of a data set obtained from a large number of physical model tests (collected within the framework of the European project CLASH, see e.g. [Steendam, G.J., Van der Meer, J.W., Verhaeghe, H., Besley, P., Franco, L. and Van Gent, M.R.A. (2004). The international database on wave overtopping. World Scientific, Proc. 29th ICCE, vol. 4, pp. 4301–4313, Lisbon, Portugal.]). Moreover, a method was developed to obtain confidence intervals for the overtopping predictions of the neural network. 相似文献
20.
Physical models of submerged partial revetment structures were built on natural beach sand with a diameter of 0.35 mm and specific gravity of 2.63. The armor units, the diameter and specific gravity of which varied in the range of 8.5–67.95 mm and 1.81–2.77 respectively, were placed only on wave breaking areas. A series of experiments has been conducted on the conditions of different armor units and different wave characteristics using regular waves and irregular waves. Based on the experimental data, the effects of wave height, wave period, diameter and specific gravity of armor units, water depth in the channel, and wave types on static damage of given structures are assessed. Some empirical formulas have been suggested through regression analysis to describe static stability and stability number of submerged partial revetment structures under pure regular waves, pure irregular waves, and regular–irregular waves. The suggested formulas compared with Van der Meer’s (1988) formulas and some differences have occurred because of differences among revetment types and test conditions; therefore, proposed formulas give reasonable results for the test conditions used. 相似文献