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1.
Based on the Boussinesq assumption,derived are couple equations of free surface elevationand horizontal velocities for horizontal irrotational flow,and analytical expressions of the correspondingpressure and vertical velocity.After the free surface elevation and horizontal velocity at a certain depth areobtained by numerical method,the pressure and vertical velocity distributions can be obtained by simplecalculation.The dispersion at different depths is the same at the O(ε)approximation.The waveamplitude will decrease with increasing time due to viscosity,but it will increase due to the matching ofviscosity and the bed slope.thus,flow is unstable.Numerical or analytical results show that the waveamplitude.velocity and length will increase as the current increases along the wave direction.but theamplitude will increase.and the wave velocity and length will decrease as the water depth decreases.  相似文献   

2.
To deal with the moving boundary hydrodynamic problems of the tidal flats in shallow water flow models, a new wetting and drying (WD) method is proposed. In the new method, a “predicted water depth” is evaluated explicitly based on the simplified shallow water equations and used to determine the status (wet or dry) together with the direction of flow. Compared with previous WD method, besides the water elevation, more factors, such as the flow velocity and the surface shear stress, are taken into account in the new method to determine the moving boundary. In addition, a formula is deduced to determine the threshold, as critical water depth, which needs to be preset before simulations. The new WD method is tested with five cases including three 1D ones and two 2D ones. The results show that the new WD method can simulate the wetting and drying process, in both typical and practical cases, with smooth manner and achieves effective estimation of the retention volume at shallow water body.  相似文献   

3.
To deal with the moving boundary hydrodynamic problems of the tidal flats in shallow water flow models,a new wetting and drying (WD) method is proposed.In the new method,a "predicted water depth" is evaluated explicitly based on the simplified shallow water equations and used to determine the status (wet or dry) together with the direction of flow.Compared with previous WD method,besides the water elevation,more factors,such as the flow velocity and the surface shear stress,are taken into account in the new method to determine the moving boundary.In addition,a formula is deduced to determine the threshold,as critical water depth,which needs to be preset before simulations.The new WD method is tested with five cases including three 1D ones and two 2D ones.The results show that the new WD method can simulate the wetting and drying process,in both typical and practical cases,with smooth manner and achieves effective estimation of the retention volume at shallow water body.  相似文献   

4.
Based on the theoretical high-order model with a dissipative term for non-linear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth, a 3-D mathematical model of non-linear wave propagation is presented. The model, which can be used to calculate the wave particle velocity and wave pressure, is suitable to the complicated topography whose relative depth ratio of the characteristic water depth to the characteristic wavelength in deep-water) is equal to or smaller than one. The governing equations are discretized with the improved 2-D Crank-Nicolson method in which the first-order derivatives are corrected by Taylor series expansion, .and the general boundary conditions with an arbitrary reflection coefficient and phase shift are adopted in the model. The surface elevation, horizontal and vertical velocity components and wave pressure of standing waves are numerically calculated. The results show that the numerical model can effectively simulate the complicated standing waves, and the general boundary conditions  相似文献   

5.
LI  Yucheng 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(1):79-87
Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gende slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0-1 boundary element method. The wave elevation and the potentials of time-stepping integration are detertnined by the 2nd-order Taylor expansion at the nodes of free surface boundary elements. During calculation the x-coordinates of the free surface element nodes are supposed to remain unchanged, i.e. the partial derivatives of wave elevation and potentials with respect to x are considered as zero. The numerical results of asymmetric parameters of breaking waves are verified by experimental study. It is shown that when the wave asymmetry is weak, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particales occurs at the wave peak and, the average ratio of this maximum velocity to wave celerity is 0.96. However, when the wave asymmetry is strong, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particles occu  相似文献   

6.
In this study,the water entry of wedges in regular waves is numerically investigated by a two-dimensional in-house numerical code.The numerical model based on the viscous Navier?Stokes(N?S)equations employs a high-order different method—the constrained interpolation profile(CIP)method to discretize the convection term.A Volume of Fluid(VOF)-type method,the tangent of hyperbola for interface capturing/slope weighting(THINC/SW)is employed to capture the free surface/interface,and an immersed boundary method is adopted to treat the motion of wedges.The momentum source function derived from the Boussinesq equation is applied as an internal wavemaker to generate regular waves.The accuracy of the numerical model is validated in comparison with experimental results in the literature.The results of water entry in waves are provided in terms of the impact force of wedge,velocity and pressure distributions of fluid.Considerable attention is paid to the effects of wave parameters and the position of wedge impacting the water surface.It is found that the existence of waves significantly influences the velocity and pressure field of fluid and impact force on the wedges.  相似文献   

7.
8.
High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of va-rying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article.First,the formal derivations toany high order of μ(=h/λ,depth to deep-water wave length ratio)and ε(=α/h,wave amplitude todepth ratio)for velocity potential,particle velocity vector,pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations forsurface elevation η and horizontal velocity vector U at any given level in water are given.Then,the exactexplicit expressions to the fourth order of μ are derived.Finally,the linear solutions of η,U,C(phase ce-lerity)and C_g(group velocity)for a constant water depth are obtained.Compared with the Airy theory,excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth.The present high-ordermodels are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth(from shal-low to deep)and bottom slope(from mild to steep).  相似文献   

9.
Generation and Properties of Freak Waves in A Numerical Wave Tank   总被引:3,自引:3,他引:3  
Freak waves are generated based on the mechanism of wave focusing in a 2D numerical wave tank. To set up the nonlinear numerical wave tank, the Boundary Element Method is used to solve potential flow equations incorporated with fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions. The nonlinear properties of freak waves, such as high frequency components and wave profile asymmetry, are discussed. The kinematic data, which can be useful for the evaluation of the wave forces exerted on structures to avoid underestimation of linear predictions, are obtained, and discussed, from the simulated results of freak waves.  相似文献   

10.
Simplified equations of fluid mud motion, which is described as Bingham-Plastic model under waves and currents, are presented by order analysis. The simplified equations are non-linear ordinary differential equations which are solved by hybrid numerical-analytical technique. As the computational cost is very low, the effects of wave current parameters and fluid mud properties on the transportation velocity of the fluid mud are studied systematically. It is found that the fluid mud can move toward one direction even if the shear stress acting on the fluid mud bed is much smaller than the fluid mud yield stress under the condition of wave and current coexistence. Experiments of the fluid mud motion under current with fluctuation water surface are carried out. The fluid mud transportation velocity predicted by the presented mathematical model can roughly match that measured in experiments.  相似文献   

11.
Refraction of incoherent random gravity waves with currents and bottom topography results in spatial variations in the spectral characteristics of the free surface. Prediction of such variations based on the radiation transfer equation is in a simple analytic form for the case of one dimensional inhomogeneities in currents and topography. This analytic form is examined in terms of two-dimensional wave number- and polar frequency-direction spectra along the associated dynamic and kinematic constraints relevant to wave breaking and reflection. Results are specialized to the simplest case of horizontal shear currents in deep and shallow water with explicit examples to illustrate the relative and combined effects of currents and topography on free surface spectra.  相似文献   

12.
A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
M. Zhao  B. Teng  L. Cheng 《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(16):597-2072
A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.  相似文献   

13.
lt is shown that Maxwell's equations which describe the propagation of electromagnetic radiation are analogous to the kinematic relationships which govern the propagation of long water waves, if the latter equations are described in terms of a vector potential. The analogy between the two phenomena may be used to study, for example, seiching, or long wave resonance, in harbors by means of an equivalent microwave cavity. The plan geometry of the cavity would be geometrically similar to that of the harbor basin so that wave reflections were correctly reproduced, and the refraction caused by depth variations in the harbor would be modeled by varying the dielectric properties of the cavity interior. When supplied with an appropriate source of microwaves, the intensity of the electric field at a given point can be related to wave induced currents at a similar location in the harbor. Such information is an important factor in the siting of berthing and mooring facilties for shipping. It is also shown how the impedance concept can be used to study the transformation of long waves as they traverse a step change in water depth.  相似文献   

14.
海洋浅层土质剪切波速与深度的关系分析   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
剪切波速是工程场地地震安全性评价最重要的参数之一。应用测试的大量海洋浅层土质的剪切波速数据,利用最小二乘法通过三种模型探讨了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度的关系,给出了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度拟合最佳的统计公式。并与《构筑物抗震设计规范》的推荐公式在某一海域工程场地的测试结果进行对比分析,结果表明:本文所建立的统计公式对剪切波速的预测效果明显好于规范所推荐的统计公式。所推荐的海洋不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度间的统计公式,可供无波速测试的海洋工程场地使用。  相似文献   

15.
Jiankang Wu  Bo Chen 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(15):1899-1913
Based on Green–Naghdi equation this work studies unsteady ship waves in shallow water of varying depth. A moving ship is regarded as a moving pressure disturbance on free surface. The moving pressure is incorporated into the Green–Naghdi equation to formulate forcing of ship waves in shallow water. The frequency dispersion term of the Green–Naghdi equation accounts for the effects of finite water depth on ship waves. A wave equation model and the finite element method (WE/FEM) are adopted to solve the Green–Naghdi equation. The numerical examples of a Series 60 (CB=0.6) ship moving in shallow water are presented. Three-dimensional ship wave profiles and wave resistance are given when the ship moves in shallow water with a bed bump (or a trench). The numerical results indicate that the wave resistance increases first, then decreases, and finally returns to normal value as the ship passes a bed bump. A comparison between the numerical results predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations is made. It is found that the wave resistance predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation is larger than that predicted by the shallow water equations in subcritical flow , and the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations predict almost the same wave resistance when , the frequency dispersion can be neglected in supercritical flows.  相似文献   

16.
张洪生  冯文静  商辉 《海洋学报》2007,29(5):161-173
以一种新型的含变换速度变量的Boussinesq型方程为控制方程组,采用五阶Runge-Kutta-England格式离散时间积分,采用七点差分格式离散空间导数,并采用恰当的出流边界条件,从而建立了非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型.对均匀水深水域内波浪传播的数值模拟,说明在引入变换速度后进一步增大了模型的水深适用范围.对潜堤地形上波浪传播的数值模拟说明,在引入变换速度后进一步提高了模型的数值模拟精度.  相似文献   

17.
风作用于水面产生风浪, 其中由于波流紊动产生的动量和能量的交换机制是一个很复杂的过程。风应力一般用来描述这种能量交换, 可以分为3个部分: 水面的剪切力、波生应力以及紊动应力。采用一种有效的非线性波流分离方法——NSFM(Nonlinear Stream Function Method)对波流运动的动量和能量输移进行定性描述。构造能够有效表达非线性波浪的解析流函数, 摄动求解使其满足拉普拉斯方程、动力边界条件和运动边界条件, 结合实验室风浪数据, 分离出波生速度场。通过交叉谱分析, 得到波生雷诺应力在不同风速下对风应力的贡献。结果表明: NSFM对不同工况条件下的风浪的处理具有较高的精度, 模型适应性良好; 且风速越大, 波生应力沿着水深衰减得越快, 且自由面波生应力在动量输移中的比重会逐渐减弱。  相似文献   

18.
Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface in shallow water and over slopes of various geometries are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. Either linear or Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with various wave periods and sea bottom slopes in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing computational and experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.  相似文献   

19.
A numerical model is developed by combining a porous flow model and a two-phase flow model to simulate wave transformation in porous structure and hydraulic performances of a composite type low-crest seawall. The structure consists of a wide submerged reef, a porous terrace at the top and an impermeable rear wall. The porous flow model is based on the extended Navier-Stokes equations for wave motion in porous media and kε turbulence equations. The two-phase flow model combines the water domain with the air zone of finite thickness above water surface. A unique solution domain is established by satisfying kinematic boundary condition at the interface of air and water. The free surface advection of water wave is modeled by the volume of fluid method with newly developed fluid advection algorithm. Comparison of computed and measured wave properties shows reasonably good agreement. The influence of terrace width and structure porosity is investigated based on numerical results. It is concluded that there exist optimum value of terrace width and porosity that can maximize hydraulic performances. The velocity distributions inside and in front of the structure are also investigated.  相似文献   

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