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1.
-The effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike is mainly discussed in this paper. Two simulating methods of wave group and their applications in laboratory are introduced. Synthesizing the research results of wave run-up on a slope dike, the effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike in coastal protection engineering is studied as the main point.  相似文献   

2.
This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service life of coastal structures is derived in this paper.  相似文献   

3.
In coastal sea areas with the bimodal Ochi-Hubble wave spectrum, such as parts of the China Sea and Indian Ocean,wave energy is the superposition of wind wave and swell. Traditional heaving buoy wave energy converters developed with narrowband wave spectrums suffer from big energy loss in these areas, leading to lower power absorption efficiency and higher generating costs. In contrast, multi-freedom buoy has different resonant frequencies and maximal power capture wave frequencies in different ...  相似文献   

4.
Applications of A Numerical Model to Wave Propagation on Mild Slopes   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Based on the mild slope equation that has heen deeomposed inlo three equations related to wave phase function, wave amplitude and wave approach angle, a refraction-diffraction model is developed. The finite difference method has been selected as the solution method. The model results are compared with experimental results and the model is applied to coastal waters of the Fethiye Bay, whieh is located at the Mediterranean Sea of Turkey.  相似文献   

5.
1.IntroductionVertical breakwaters are widely used for harbor and coastline protection in coastal engineering.Recently,perforated breakwaters have been often used in practice as they can effectively reduce thewaveforces actingon,the wave reflectionfromand…  相似文献   

6.
Numerical Simulation of Wave Field near Submerged Bars by PLIC-VOF Model   总被引:2,自引:1,他引:2  
Investigating the wave field near structures in coastal and offshore engineering is of increasing significance. In the present study, simulation is done of the wave profile and flow field for waves propagating over submerged bars, using PLIC-VOF (Pieeewise Linear Interface Construction) to trace the free surface of wave and finite difference method to solve vertical 2D Navier-Stokes (N-S) equations. A comparison of the numerical results for two kinds of submerged bars with the experimental ones shows that the PLIC-VOF model used in this study is effective and can compute the wave field precisely.  相似文献   

7.
- Engineers in coastal engineering have been paying much attention to the research subject on wave breaking. In this paper, previous research results on the calculating methods of wave breaking depth and height are enumerated, the laws of wave transformation before and after wave breaking are investigated, an adequate supposition is made, and the effect of beach slope, bed friction and breaking turbulence on wave breaking is considered. By applying the theory of wave energy dissipation rate and combining with proper formulas of solitary waves, a new calculating formula of wave breaking depth and height on the movable bed is derived and examined with the data from experimental pools of different sizes, and it is proved to be of practicability.  相似文献   

8.
On the basis of data of drifting bottles' tracks and the current measured in anchored stations, as well as temperature and salinity observed in cruise investigations and coastal stations, ADCP current data and AVHRR surface sea temperature (SST) data on the western coast of Guangdong, synthetic results of analysis showed that the coastal currents in the west of the mouth of the Zhujiang River were mainly westward in summer, which constituted the north branch of cyclonic gyre in the east of the Qiongzhou Straits. Part of its water flowed westward into the Beibu Gulf through the Qiongzhou Straits. The coastal current pattern was not identical with the traditional current system which flowed westward in the Qiongzhou Straits in winter and eastward in summer. The summertime's coastal current was always westward, maybe temporarily turning northeast only when the southwest wind was strong. The important characteristics of coastal current on the western coast of Guangdong, in the Qiongzhou Straits and in the north of the Beibu Gulf were analyzed and their mechanisms also were explained.  相似文献   

9.
The modified hybrid element method (MHEM) is utilized to predict and analyze wave forces on arbitrarily shaped multiple bodies. This method can be applied to waves of all water depths, i. e. shallow, intermediate, and deep waters, on slowly varying seabed. The MHEM employs the ICCG method to save CPU and storage, thus the computation of wave forces for large multi-body systems can be carried out on microcomputers. Numerical results of the present method are compared with experimental data and other solutions. It is shown that the MHEM provides more accurate solutions of the wave forces than other numerical methods do. Therefore, the methodology presented herein can be used in the design of coastal and ocean structures.  相似文献   

10.
- According to the need of project design for offshore engineering and coastal engineering, this paper statistically analyses the annual extreme data of waves acquired at 19 observation stations along the coast of China. Five kinds of distribution curves are adopted: Pearson Ⅲ(P-Ⅲ), Log-Extreme I (LE), Log-Normal(LN), Weibull(W) and Exponential r(Eг) to check the adaptability to the long-term distribution of annual extreme of wave in the China Sea areas. The New Curve Fittling Method (NFIT) method and Probability Weighted Moments (PWM) method are used to estimate the distribution parameters and thereby to derive the design wave parameters with different return periods at 19 observation stations. The test results show that by combining Eг distribution and NFIT parameter estimation and optimum seeking by computer, the design wave parameters can be estimated with high accuracy, high speed and high efficiency, and the randomness of the estimated results can be avoided.  相似文献   

11.
The experimental studies of the wave breaking effects on freak wave generation are presented within a finite-depth random wave train in a laboratory wave tank. The main attention is paid to the abnormal index, AI=Hmax/Hs, being used to characterize the freak waves, and the changes of the coefficient due to wave breaking. The results show that the occurence in deep water is larger than that in shallow water.  相似文献   

12.
The experimental studies of the wave breaking effects on freak wave generation are presented within a finite-depth random wave train in a laboratory wave tank. The main attention is paid to the abnormal index,AI=Hmax/Hs,being used to characterize the freak waves,and the changes of the coefficient due to wave breaking. The results show that the occurrence probability of freak wave events in non-breaking waves is much larger than that in breaking waves and such occurrence in deep water is larger than that in ...  相似文献   

13.
Unified Water Gravity Wave Theory and Improved Linear Wave   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
- Based on Least Square Method, this paper presents variational principle for handling various water gravity wave theories and the unified water gravity wave theory was given. By using this variational principle of unified water wave theory, two kinds of improved linear waves were derived. The first one uses the same boundary conditions which were applied to derive 5-order Stokes wave. The second one uses the accurate boundary conditions (Eqs. 11 and 12). The two improved linear waves were compared with the existing linear wave.  相似文献   

14.
根据线性系统理论,首先由给定的靶谱模拟海浪信号,再把此信号转换为造波控制输入信号,最后在水槽中指定的截面处产生具有给定靶谱的随机波。这种模拟方法已在青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室的大型水槽中实现,并取得良好的效果。  相似文献   

15.
In this paper, the extreme wave loads on an on-shore wave power device are investigated. First, boundary element method is applied to solve the three dimensional potential problem based on the small amplitude wave assumption. Then the motion of the Oscillating Water Column (OWC) inside the device and its laods on the device are calculated in time domain. Several protective techniques often applied are simulated by changing the constraint of the upper end of the chamber of the device. Numerical results are used to judge the effectiveness of these techniques. The investigation shows that damping can not effectively restrain the motion of OWC when the period of incident wave is long, which may cause dangerous loads on the structure. The shut chamber can effectively restrain the motion of OWC, but alternatively cause high pressure in the chamber. A Contracting opening with a Taper (CT) can exhaust a great amount of kinetic energy of OWC, and significantly decrease the loads. It is a promising protective tec  相似文献   

16.
Dependence of Wave Height Distribution on Spectral Width and Wave Steepness   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution.  相似文献   

17.
-A joint probability density is derived for wavelengths and wave heights.It is asymmetric anddepends only on the spectral bandwidthεdefined by Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins(1956).After that atheoretical probability density for wave steepness is obtained.It tends to Rayleigh distribution asε→0.Acomparison between theorethal steepness distribution and laboratory experiment result shows good agree-ment.  相似文献   

18.
Based on the Stokes wave theory, the capillary-gravity wave and the interfacial internal wave in two-layer constant depth''s fluid system are investigated. The fluids are assumed to be incompressible, inviscid and irrotational. The third-order Stokes wave solutions are given by using a perturbation method. The results indicate that the third-order solutions depend on the surface tension, the density and the depth of each layer. As expected, the first-order solutions are the linear theoretical results (the small amplitude wave theoretical results). The second-order and the third-order solutions describe the nonlinear modification and the nonlinear interactions. The nonlinear impact appears not only in the n (n≥2) times'' high frequency components, but also in the low frequency components. It is also noted that the wave velocity depends on the wave number, depth, wave amplitude and surface tension.  相似文献   

19.
海浪的视景仿真有重要的应用背景与军事意义。文中围绕如何解决海浪的实时视景仿真问题,讨论了基于海浪谱的不同浪级波面的仿真模型,并讨论了海浪的实时视景仿真实现技术。这些模型与技术对于提高海浪仿真实时性与真实性有一定的参考价值。  相似文献   

20.
Numerical Simulation of Wave Height and Wave Set-Up in Nearshore Regions   总被引:2,自引:3,他引:2  
Based on the time dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation, and then a practical method for the simulation of wave height and wave set-up in nearshore regions is presented. The variation of the complex wave amplitude is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The components of wave radiation stress are calculated subsequently by new expressions for them according to the obtained complex wave amplitude, and then the depth-averaged equation is applied to the calculation of wave set-up due to wave breaking. Numerical results are in good agreement with experimental data, showing that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable and that the new method is effective for the simulation of wave set-up due to wave breaking in nearshore regions.  相似文献   

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