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1.
三维极限波的产生方法及特性 总被引：9，自引：2，他引：9
极限破碎波浪是造成海洋结构物破坏的主要因素之一,对极限波浪的产生方法和特性进行研究具有重要的工程意义.利用长波传播快、短波传播慢的原理,从理论上给出了产生三维极限波的方法,利用基于Boussinesq方程的数值模拟对该方法进行了验证,同时研究了中心频率、频率宽度和频谱形式等对极限波浪特性的影响,为该方法的进一步应用提出了建议. 相似文献
2.
Spectral analysis is used to determine the wave force characteristics on structures exposed to random waves. Considerable work has been carried out to determine the magnitude of random wave forces acting on a single cylinder, but little information is available in the case of a group of cylinders in random waves. Such situations arise when structures comprise multiple tubular members which are in close proximity, and wave forces cannot be calculated precisely by analytical methods due to complicated flow conditions past the group. Experimental studies are also required for proper understanding and analysis. An experimental scheme was carried out to study the wave force characteristics on a single cylinder and on a group of cylinders in response to two different wave spectra with the same significant wave height, and the results are compared. 相似文献
3.
海底沙波在全球广泛分布、成因复杂，但往往多种尺度的沙波叠加在一起形成复杂的沙波地貌体系，导致难以进行量化研究。针对该问题，本文提出一种实用的傅里叶分析方法，设计了巴特沃斯滤波器，将水深数据变换到频率域，进而将复杂沙波地貌分解成不同频率的单一类型沙波。并以台湾浅滩复杂的沙波地貌体系为例进行了分析研究，分解量化出3种空间尺度的沙波:巨型沙波(波长>100 m，波高>5 m)、中型沙波(波长5～100 m，波高0.4～5 m)和沙波纹(波长<5 m，波高<0.4 m)。本文提出的海底沙波地貌量化分析方法，有助于研究不同尺度海底沙波的成因与机理，对沙波区海洋工程的安全评估也具有实用价值。 相似文献
4.
Real waves are multidirectional waves.In the present study,the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed.Its validity is first confirmed by a numerical model for which the incident boundary condition is determined by use of the proposed method.Then,the physical simulation of multidirectional wave groups is performed in laboratory wave basin.The experimental results show that multidirectional waves with expected wave groupiness,which includes not only its group height but also its group length,can be satisfactorily generated at the specified position in the physical wave basin. 相似文献
5.
Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term. 相似文献
6.
应用基于势流理论的时域高阶边界元方法,建立一个完全非线性的三维数值波浪水槽,通过实时模拟推板造波运动的方式产生波浪。通过混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新自由水面和造波板的瞬时位置。利用所建模型分别模拟了有限水深波和浅水波,与试验结果、相关文献结果和浅水理论结果吻合较好,且波浪能够稳定传播。系统地讨论造波板的运动圆频率、振幅和水深等对波浪传播和波浪特性的影响,并对波浪的非线性特性进行分析,研究发现造波板运动频率、运动振幅以及水深均将对波浪形态和波浪非线性产生显著影响。结果为真实水槽造波机的运动控制以及波浪生成试验提供了依据,便于实验室设置更合理的参数来准确模拟不同条件下的波浪。 相似文献
7.
An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
The propagation speed is one of the most important characteristics for describing freak waves. The research of freak wave speed is not only helpful for understanding the generation mechanism and evolution process of freak waves, but also applicable to the prediction. A stable and accurate method is proposed for the calculation of the freak wave speed, in which physical model tests are carried out to measure the motion of the largest wave crest along the wave tank. The linear regression relationship between the spatial position of the largest wave crest and instantaneous moment is established to calculate the speed of totally 248 cases of experimental freak waves and 312 supplementary cases of numerical freak waves. Based on the calculate results, a semitheoretical and semiempirical formula is proposed by using a regression analysis method to predict the speed of the freak wave, and the nonlinear characteristic of the freak wave speed is also investigated. 相似文献
8.
Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea storm sea states 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A data set of storm wave records from the North Sea is analysed. Using current definitions of abnormal waves, eight of the largest wind waves are defined as abnormal waves. Twenty-four of the largest waves in time series, with a height larger than 10 m and with big vertical asymmetry are chosen for further analysis. Their individual characteristics are investigated and related to the global sea state characteristics. A comparison between measured data, second-order theory predictions and offshore basin data is made. The results for the chosen waves do not coincide with predictions of second-order theory. Considering that wind wave is second- and third-order non-linear, a new relationship between skewness and kurtosis is proposed for the sea states in which extremely asymmetric large waves have occurred. Another relationship between kurtosis and abnormality index of maximum waves is proposed too. 相似文献
9.
Two methods are presented for analysis of second order waves in a wave tank. The first method is by placing three wave probes in a line parallel to the line of propagation of long-crested irregular waves. By correlation analysis the spectra of set-down, parasitic waves and reflected waves of the second order are separated. The second method is to apply the square-law operation as proposed by Bendat and Piersol, to the spectral analysis of this particular non-linear system. The results of the two methods seem to agree reasonably well. A practical application of the present analysis is to analyse low frequency responses of a moored structure in a wave tank, where it is recognized that simulation of second order waves and the structure's responses are often accompanied by parasitic second order waves and reflected waves in the tank. These adulterations may be regarded as noises, and the proper information regarding non-linear second order responses extracted from the raw output. 相似文献
10.
响水近岸海域波浪特性研究 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料，分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性，研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性，并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间，年平均值为0.56 m；最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间，年平均值为0.93 m；平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s，年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节，波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言，通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面，本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%，且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值，其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右，高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间，分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系，发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性，但受波浪浅水变形影响，各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。 相似文献
11.
Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves have been studied by use of a wind-wave tunnel. The individual waves are defined by actual undulations of the water surface at any instant, and are characterized by concentrated shearing stress and strong vorticity at their crests. A conspicuous self-similarity structure is found in the individual wave field. The similarity manifests itself as a simple spectral form, and as the statistical 3/2-power law between nondimensional wave height and wave period, and further as the -1/2-power relationship between nondimensional phase speed and frequency, for waves of the high frequency side. The normalized energy spectrum, specially defined for individual waves, has a form practically equivalent to the traditional spectrum for component waves in the main frequency range from 0.7 to 1.5 in the frequency normalized by the peak frequency, but does not have secondary peaks at harmonics. The phase speed of individual waves also coincides with that of component waves in the main frequency range. 相似文献
12.
The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given. 相似文献
13.
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15.
船用X波段雷达被广泛应用于海洋表面波观测和研究。本文给出了一种新的从船用X波段雷达图像中确定主波传播方向的方法。X波段雷达图像中的海浪信号具有明显的尺度性和方向性。同时，curvelet变换作为一种同时具备尺度分辨率和方向分辨率的数学变换，能够对一幅雷达图像在不同尺度、不同方向和不同位置上进行分析。对一幅雷达图像进行curvelet分解并获得curvelet系数后，波浪信号主要集中在某些特定尺度和方向的curvelet系数中，从而我们可以获得带有 方向模糊的波传播方向。进而，通过计算几幅连续采集图像的互相关系数可以消除 方向模糊。同步观测的雷达图像和浮标数据证明了该方法的有效性。 相似文献
16.
基于拟层流风波生成机制的海浪谱模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海浪谱的能量可以视为由具有不同相速度的谐波携带的能量所组成。基于对风波形成、发展过程的认识,认为各组成谐波的能量由谐波自平均风摄取而来,由此根据拟层流模型推导出谐波能量密度的计算公式,建立以等效风速和峰值频率等为基本参数的海浪谱模型——随机Fourier函数模型,并给出了确定谐波频率、波长、相速度、振幅以及等效风速等模型参数的原则和计算方法。在59个实测样本谱基础上,采用随机建模方法确定模型参数的取值及其概率分布。结果表明,海浪谱模型可以很好地预测谱能,所计算的物理谱与实测谱均值吻合良好。 相似文献
17.
Particle image velocimetry has been used to examine three-dimensional breaking wave kinematics. Two cases of wave breaking were studied. In the first case, the wave field contains a single frequency with a uniform angular spreading within a given range {{ — , .}}. The wave field of the second case consists of a number of frequencies with a uniform angular spreading applied to each frequency. In both cases, the waves are designed such that the wave energy is focused at a given point. The degree of angular spreading has been found to have great effects on the breaking characteristics and kinematics. Two types of breaker were observed, the first being plunging and the second being spilling. Increasing the angular spreading had the effect of making the velocities within the extreme waves larger. The ratio of the crest velocity to the breaking wave speed was approximately unity under both single and multiple frequency conditions, regardless of the angular spreading. 相似文献
18.
In the present study,a numerical wave tank is developed to simulate the nonlinear wave-current interactions based on High Order Spectral(HOS) method.The influences of current on wave focusing are investigated by use of numerical model.The current is assumed to be constant in space.Focused waves with different amplitudes and frequency spectra are simulated with and without current.The focused wave characteristics,such as surface elevation,the maximum crest and frequency spectrum,with different current are compared.The results show that the opposing current increases the maximum crest and the energy transform during wave focusing process,and vice versa for the following current. 相似文献
19.
It is expected that the vortex-induced vibration response of long flexible tubular structures exposed to a shear current will consist of multiple modes of standing and traveling waves simultaneously. The vibration characteristics of traveling wave caused by VIV and its effect on the vibration form for a flexible pipe model are presented in this paper. Two methods are proposed to reveal the characteristics of standing and traveling waves from the perspective of an instantaneous illustration and a time-averaged statistical analysis separately. The first is associated with the adoption of an illustration method depending upon an instantaneous local upper envelope to identify the dominance of the standing or traveling wave. It is found that the in-line and cross-flow wave types show synchronization in that the wave types are mostly changeless or occasionally transform from one type to the other nearly simultaneously. In both the in-line and cross-flow directions, it is evident that the vibration response is not dominated by the standing wave characteristics but can often be characterized by the alternate presence of a traveling wave and a hybrid standing-traveling wave. The second method is associated with the adoption of the significant strain peak concept proposed to estimate the occurrence of the peak strain response and fatigue damage risk. It is found that the strain peak value attributed to in-line static strain accounts for a large proportion of the final equivalent significant strain peak near the pipe end with high reduced velocities, especially when the flow velocity is high. With the occurrence of a hybrid pattern of standing-traveling wave for higher velocities, the distribution of the significant cross-flow strain peak becomes uniform and its corresponding wave shape is apt to be flat. 相似文献
20.
Ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
Nearly 17 years wave records from deep water and shore‐based stations are used to describe the ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand. The wave environment is dominated by west and southwest swell and storm waves generated in the temperate latitude belt of westerly winds. As a result, the west and south coasts are exposed, high energy shores, the east coast is a high energy lee shore, and the northern coast from North Cape to East Cape is a low energy lee shore sheltered from these winds and waves. South of New Zealand, wave energies are extremely high; the prevailing deep water wave is 3.5–4.5 m high and has a 10–12 s period, with a slight increase in wave heights in winter. The west coast wave environment is mixed, and consists of locally generated westerly and southerly storm waves, and swell waves generated to the south. The prevailing wave is t.0–3.0 m and 6–8 s period. There are no strong seasonal rhythms, only shorter period cycles of wave height (5 day) associated with similar quasi‐rhythmic cycles in the weather. The east coast also has a mixed wave climate with southerly swells, originating in the westerlies south of New Zealand, and locally generated southerly and northerly storm waves. The prevailing wave is 0.5–2.0 m and 7–11 s period. A short period rhythmic cycle, similar to that on the west coast, is superimposed on a weak seasonal cycle. The seasonal, cycle results from an increase in the frequency of local northerly waves in summer. The prevailing wave on the north coast is a northeasterly, 0.5–1.5 m high and 5–7 s period. Subtropical disturbances and southward‐moving depressions generate a mixed wave environment and a possible seasonally reflecting a winter increase in. storminess. 相似文献