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1.
In the present paper a general longshore transport (LT) model is proposed after a re-calibration of the model originally introduced by Lamberti and Tomasicchio (1997) based on a modified stability number, Ns⁎⁎, for stone mobility at reshaping or berm breakwaters. Ns⁎⁎ resembles the traditional stability number (Ahrens, 1987; van der Meer, 1988) taking into account the effects of a non-Rayleighian wave height distribution at shallow water (Klopman and Stive, 1989), wave steepness, wave obliquity, and nominal diameter of the units. Nine high-quality data sets from field and laboratory experiments have been considered to extend the validity of the original model for a wider mobility range of the units: from stones to sands. The predictive capability of the proposed model has been verified against the most popular formulae in literature for the LT estimation of not cohesive units at a coastal body. The comparison showed that the model gives a better agreement with the physical data with respect to the other investigated formulae.The proposed transport model presents a main advantage with respect to other formulae: it can represent an engineering tool suitable for a large range of conditions, from sandy beaches till reshaping breakwaters. 相似文献
2.
K.F. Lambrakos 《Ocean Engineering》1982,9(4):385-405
A methodology has been developed to calculate the dynamic probabilistic movement and resulting stresses for marine pipelines subjected to storm waves. A directional wave spectrum is used with a Fourier series expansion to simulate short-crested waves and calculate their loads on the pipeline. The pipeline displacements resulting from these loads are solutions to the time-dependent beam-column equation which also includes the soil resistance as external loading. The statistics of the displacements for individual waves are combined with the wave statistics for a given period of time, e.g. pipeline lifetime, to generate probabilistic estimates for net pipeline movement. On the basis of displacements for specified probability levels the pipeline configuration is obtained from which pipeline stresses can be estimated using structural considerations, e.g. pipeline stiffness, end restraints, etc. 相似文献
3.
Berm breakwaters are rubble mound structures in which the seaward slope of the initial profile may be reshaped to become more stable under severe wave attack. The stones in the seaward slope move from the initial slope to an equilibrium profile. A 2D experimental study has been carried out in a wave flume at a hydraulic laboratory of Tarbiat Modares University to study the effects of sea state and structural parameters on the reshaped profile parameters of such breakwaters. A series of 287 tests have been performed to cover the effect of various sea state conditions such as wave height, wave period, number of waves and water depth at the toe of the structure, and structural parameters such as berm width, berm elevation above still water level and armor stone size. All the tests have been done employing irregular waves with a JONSWAP spectrum. In this paper, first the reshaped profiles are schematized, and then the key parameters of the reshaped seaward profiles such as step height, step length and depth of intersection point of initial and reshaped profile are investigated, using results of this experimental work. Eventually, formulae that include some sea state and structural parameters are derived for estimation of the reshaped profile parameters. To assess the validity of the proposed formulae, comparisons are made between the estimated parameters of reshaped profiles by these formulae and earlier formulae given by other researchers. The comparisons show that the estimation procedure foretells reshaping parameters well and with less scatter according to the present data and also other experimental results within the range of parameters tested. 相似文献
4.
The berm recession of a reshaping berm breakwater has a very important role for the stability of this kind of structure. Based on a 2D experimental modeling method in a wave flume, the recession of the berm due to sea state and structural parameters has been studied. Irregular waves with a JONSWAP spectrum were used. A total of 215 tests have been performed to cover the impact of sea state conditions such as wave height, wave period, storm duration and water depth at the toe of the structure, and structural parameters such as berm elevation from still water level, berm width and stone diameter on berm recession. In this paper, first a new dimensionless parameter is introduced to evaluate the combined effect of wave height and wave period on berm recession using results of the experimental work. Then, a formula that includes some sea state and structural parameters is derived using the new dimensionless parameter for estimating the berm recession. A comparison is made between the estimated berm recessions by this new formula and formulae given by other researchers to show the preference of using the new dimensionless parameter. The comparison shows that the recession estimated by the new formula has not only a better correlation with the present experimental data, but also has an improved correlation with other experimental results within the range of parameters tested. Outside the range of parameters tested the Lykke Andersen (2006) formula performed best. 相似文献
5.
Design aspects other than the profile development of the seaward side have been investigated in this paper. Aspects such as scale effects, rear stability, round head design and longshore transport have been treated here, based on extensive test series on two different berm breakwater designs. A first conclusion is that scale effects were not present in a 1:35 scale model compared with a 1:7 large scale model with wave heights up to 1.7 m.A first design rule was assessed on the relationship between damage at the rear of a berm breakwater and the crest height, wave height, wave steepness and rock size. Tests on a berm breakwater head showed that enlarging the berm height at the crest and therefore the amount of rock in the berm was effective with regard to stability.Finally the onset of longshore transport due to oblique wave attack was studied and compared with literature. Formulae were derived for this onset of transport and also for the range of more serious transport up to longshore transport of coarse gravel. 相似文献
6.
Non-hydrostatic models such as Surface WAves till SHore (SWASH) resolve many of the relevant physics in coastal wave propagation such as dispersion, shoaling, refraction, dissipation and nonlinearity. However, for efficiency, they assume a single-valued surface and therefore do not resolve some aspects of breaking waves such as wave overturning, turbulence generation, and air entrainment. To study the ability of such models to represent nonlinear wave dynamics and statistics in a dissipative surf zone, we compare simulations with SWASH to flume observations of random, unidirectional waves, incident on a 1:30 planar beach. The experimental data includes a wide variation in the incident wave fields, so that model performance can be studied over a large range of wave conditions. Our results show that, without specific calibration, the model accurately predicts second-order bulk parameters such as wave height and period, the details of the spectral evolution, and higher-order statistics, such as skewness and asymmetry of the waves. Monte Carlo simulations show that the model can capture the principal features of the wave probability density function in the surf zone, and that the spectral distribution of dissipation in SWASH is proportional to the frequency squared, which is consistent with observations reported by earlier studies. These results show that relatively efficient non-hydrostatic models such as SWASH can be successfully used to parametrize surf zone wave processes. 相似文献
7.
The main idea concerned with the design of berm breakwaters is to construct a less expensive structure with reshaping berm. An experimental study on the front slope stability of homogeneous berm breakwaters has been carried out in a large number of 2D model tests at Tarbiat Modares University. In this paper, the results of this experimental study are presented conjointly with a formula for estimation of berm recession as the most important parameter for describing the reshaping. This includes the influence of wave height and period, storm duration, berm width and elevation variations on the stability of berm breakwater with different armor stone sizes. A total of 222 tests have been performed to cover the impact of these parameters. According to the present research, one can observe that considering different armor stone sizes, berm width is a significant parameter concerning reshaping of a berm breakwater that has not been covered in previous works, so that as the berm width increases the amount of berm recession decreases. To assess the validity of the present formula, comparisons are made between the estimated berm recessions by this formula and formulae given by other researchers, showing that the estimation procedure foretells berm recession well according to the present data. It is observed that the recession estimated by the present formula has comparatively better correlation with the present experimental data, and also with other experimental results within the range of parameters tested. 相似文献
8.
An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves). 相似文献
9.
The newly developed nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, using a hybrid finite-difference finite-volume TVD-type scheme, is coupled with the wave model SWAN in the Nearshore Community Model (NearCoM) system. The new modeling system is named NearCoM-TVD and the purpose of this study is to report the capability and limitation of NearCoM-TVD for several coastal applications. For tidal inlet applications, the model is verified with the semi-analytical solution of Keulegan (1967) for an idealized inlet-bay system. To further evaluate the model performance in predicting nearshore circulation under intense wave–current interaction over complex bathymetry, modeled circulation patterns are validated with measured data during RCEX field experiment (MacMahan et al., 2010). For sediment transport applications, two sediment transport models are applied to predict three sandbar migration events at Duck, NC, during August to October 1994 (Gallagher et al., 1998). The model of Kobayashi et al. (2008) incorporates wave-induced onshore sediment transport rate as a function of the standard deviation of wave-induced horizontal velocities. The modeled beach profile evolution for two offshore events and one onshore event agrees well with the measured data. The second model investigated here combines two published sediment transport models, namely, the total load model driven by currents under the effect of wave stirring (Soulsby, 1997) and the wave-driven sediment transport model due to wave asymmetry/skewness (van Rijn et al., 2011). The model study with limited field data suggests that the parameterization of wave stirring is appropriate during energetic wave conditions. However, during low energy wave conditions, the effect of wave stirring needs to be re-calibrated. 相似文献
10.
The performance of two well-known equations to predict the depth-averaged alongshore suspended sediment flux [Van Rijn, L.C., 1984. Sediment transport, part II: suspended load transport. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering 110, 1613–1641; and Bailard, J.A., 1981. An energetics total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 86, 10938–10954] was assessed by comparing predictions with 2306 field estimates based on a vertical stack of three optical backscatter sensors and a single electromagnetic flow meter. The observations were collected at four cross-shore positions on the intertidal beach of Egmond aan Zee, the Netherlands, during calm to storm conditions, with the offshore significant wave height peaking at 3.7 m. Measured hydrodynamics were employed in the computations of both models. Also, default parameter values were used without calibration to the data. We found that both models underpredicted the observations. Overall, the Van Rijn model outperformed the Bailard model, with about 70% of the model prediction lying between 1/5 to 5 of the observations under energetic conditions. For the Bailard model this was only about 20%. The performance of the Van Rijn model is, however, sensitive to the wave-related roughness, one of its highly uncertain free parameters. This may allow for an easy calibration when estimates of the depth-averaged alongshore sediment flux are available but may lead to serious errors in situations without data to constrain the predictions. We suspect that the discrepancy between the observations and model predictions is due to an overestimation of the observed fluxes (high turbidity, air bubbles) and an underestimation of the modeled fluxes because of missing physics related primarily to breaking waves. 相似文献
11.
A validation concept for cohesive sediment transport model and application on Lianyungang Harbor,China 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Morphology evolution and hydro-sedimentological interactions in muddy coastal environments are long term processes. These processes are closely related to suspended sediment transport driven by waves and tidal currents. In the traditional calibration/verification methodology for cohesive sediment transport models, time-series data of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) measured during one or several tidal periods are commonly used as major validation references. But the disadvantage of this approach includes that it cannot filter the noises caused by the stochastic nature of short term hydrodynamics induced by waves and the varying properties of bottom sediments; besides a phase-lag phenomenon is often observed between sediment transport and hydrodynamics in the short term. On the contrary, a stable relationship between sedimentation and hydrodynamics is usually found in the long term. For a specific weather, the SSC values often agree well with local wave heights for muddy coasts. Therefore, in this paper a conceptual quantity defined as “representative SSC” was brought forward, and a model validation concept, including calibration and verification approaches, was proposed, in which calibration is performed against yearly-representative SSC values and the long term transport trend, and verification by using representative SSC values corresponding to different wave conditions. A numerical simulation was set up, and a real-life engineering application, Lianyungang Harbor, China, was executed to elaborate the proposed validation concept. Finally, the characteristics of SSC distribution around Lianyungang Harbor were discussed. 相似文献
12.
This paper illustrates the results of an experimental investigation (model-to-prototype length ratio equal to 12) carried out to reproduce the cross-shore evolution of nourished sandy beaches. New two-dimensional experiments were performed to study the short-term response of the cross-shore profile for both “soft” (unprotected) and “mixed” (protected by submerged breakwaters) beach fill projects. Due to the simplified reproduction of prototype conditions in a two-dimensional geometry, only cross-shore sediment transport is considered. The results are related to the immediate post-nourishment evolution and far from beach fill boundaries where long-shore gradients of long-shore sediment transport are likely to be negligible. Three different pseudo-random wave trains were generated in order to simulate both accretive and erosive conditions. A fourth wave train, characterised by time-varying incident wave spectrum was generated for the investigation of the beach response to simplified storm time evolution. Dimensionless experimental results are given in terms of wave parameters, key features of cross-shore profile evolution and sediment transport rates. Furthermore, being highly resolved in both time and space, experimental data are suitable for mathematical model validation. It was observed that submerged breakwater switches erosive conditions to slightly accretive, at least within the tested experimental range. 相似文献
13.
A novel automated trinocular stereo imaging system (ATSIS) is developed for non-intrusively measuring the temporal evolution of three-dimensional wave characteristics. The system consists of three progressive digital cameras to provide three independent stereo-pairs, i.e. left–right, left–center, and center–right, for accurately estimating depth of a scene. A third camera assists to resolve correspondence problems due to specular reflection on the water surface and provides additional constraints on image matching, dramatically reducing the chance of a mismatch. An oblique configuration for the trinocular system effectively increases spatial coverage, allowing observations of wave phenomena over a broad range of spatial scales. The height resolution is increased with the optical axes of the cameras pointed at an oblique angle with respect to vertical surface wave displacements. A new exterior calibration procedure is developed in this paper to determine the orientation of cameras in the field. Field experiments demonstrate that ATSIS can robustly measure hundreds of matched image points in seconds, allowing fast extraction of the temporal evolution of a three-dimensional surface wave field. 相似文献
14.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(3):171-195
A morphological stability analysis is carried out for a long straight coast with a longshore bar. The situation with oblique wave incidence and a wave-driven longshore current is considered. The flow and sediment transport are described by a numerical modelling system. The models comprise: (i) a wave model with depth refraction, shoaling and wave breaking, (ii) a depth integrated model for wave driven currents and (iii) a sediment transport model for the bed load transport and the suspended load transport in combined waves and current. The direction of the sediment transport is taken to be parallel to the depth integrated mean current velocity, neglecting the effects of a bed slope and secondary currents. An instability is found to develop around the bar crest. The instability is periodic in the alongshore direction, and tends to form rip channels and to steepen the offshore face of the bar between the rip channels. The alongshore wave length of the most unstable perturbation is determined for different combinations of the wave conditions and the geometry of the profile. 相似文献
15.
The wave crest height qualification checks are required during the wave calibration before the model test in wave basin. However, the reliable criteria of nonlinear wave crest probability distribution in 3-h duration (full-scale) has not been well established yet. We investigate wave crest-height statistics of long-crested nonlinear wave fields using high-order spectral (HOS) method, which can take the effects of both second-order bound waves and third-order free waves into account. The energy dissipation effects due to wave breaking were included by employing an eddy viscosity model. Sensitivity analyses to the wave breaking onset criterion have been performed. Validation is provided by comparing the obtained numerical results with the available calibration test data. Based on extensive and direct numerical simulations, semi-empirical single realization distributions for wave calibration have been developed through 3-parameter Weibull fitting and systematic regression analyses. Particular attention has been paid to the tail of upper bound of wave crest distributions. The effects of wave steepness and water depth on the maximum wave crest height in 3-h duration have been examined. It is found that with the increase of wave steepness, the extreme wave crest height increases until it reaches a critical value. In addition, for the scale water depth kph < 1.36, the maximum crest height decreases as the water depth increases, while in the opposite case the maximum crest height increases as the water depth increases. Moreover, it is confirmed that that the fourth-order nonlinearity does not have significant effects on the distribution of the wave crest height. 相似文献
16.
With all the improvement in wave and hydrodynamics numerical models, the question rises in our mind that how the accuracy of the forcing functions and their input can affect the results. In this paper, a commonly used numerical third-generation wave model, SWAN is applied to predict waves in Lake Michigan. Wind data are analyzed to determine wind variation frequency over Lake Michigan. Wave predictions uncertainty due to wind local effects are compared during a period where wind has a fairly constant speed and direction over the northern and southern basins. The study shows that despite model calibration in Lake Michigan area, the model deficiency arises from ignoring wind effects in small scales. Wave prediction also emphasizes that small scale turbulence in meteorological forces can increase prediction errors by 38%. Wave frequency and coherence analysis show that both models can predict the wave variation time scale with the same accuracy. Insufficient number of meteorological stations can result in neglecting local wind effects and discrepancies in current predictions. The uncertainty of wave numerical models due to input uncertainties and model principals should be taken into account for design risk factors. 相似文献
17.
On the displacement of marked pebbles on two coarse-clastic beaches during short fair-weather periods (Marina di Pisa and Portonovo, Italy) 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
Duccio Bertoni Edoardo Grottoli Paolo Ciavola Giovanni Sarti Giuliano Benelli Alessandro Pozzebon 《Geo-Marine Letters》2013,33(6):463-476
The aim of the investigation was to define the mechanisms of sediment transport in the swash zone of microtidal coarse-clastic beaches in the very short term by evaluating the displacement rates of marked pebbles under low-energy wave conditions. Tests were performed at two sites (Marina di Pisa, Ligurian Sea, and Portonovo, central Adriatic Sea) to check the consistency of the data over a range of different grain sizes. Two recovery campaigns were carried out at both sites, one 6 h and the other 24 h after the injection. During the experiments wave action was at a minimum (wave heights never exceeded 0.3 m). The results show that 20% of pebbles ranging in diameter from 30–90 mm moved significantly (more than 0.5 m) already 6 h after the injection, with some tracers being lost (3%). After 24 h, 40% of the pebbles were significantly displaced and 10% were lost. The preferential downslope movement of tracers, which suggests that coarse sediment movement under low-energy conditions is mainly controlled by gravity processes enhanced by steep beachface slopes, represents the novelty of the results reported here. It would appear that swash processes on low-energy beaches cause a significant rate of pebble displacement through the destabilization induced by wave uprush and backwash. Despite the microtidal range, the position of the mean water level plays a major role in changing the beach level at which swash processes can actually trigger pebble movement. The results of this study show that considerable, and mostly seaward-directed, coarse sediment transport takes place even during short fair-weather periods. 相似文献
18.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(2):155-172
The bed load transport rate under random waves plus current has been predicted for a large range of wave–current conditions. A parameterized model valid for regular waves plus current has been used in Monte Carlo simulations, assuming the wave amplitudes to be Rayleigh distributed. The mean value, standard deviation and numerical estimates of the probability density function of the bed load transport rate are presented for a wide range of wave–current conditions. It appears that overall the effect of the current is dominating the bed load transport rate. Moreover, a significant scatter of the bed load transport rate under random waves plus current is found. Such a scatter is also found in field measurements by Amos et al. [J. Coast. Res. 15 (1999) 1]. Predicted ripple migration rates in the bed load regime have been compared with those obtained from field measurements by Amos et al. [J. Coast. Res. 15 (1999) 1], taking the bed load transport rate to be proportional to the ripple migration rate times the ripple height. Overall, the predictions capture the qualitative as well as the quantitative behaviour of the ripple migration rates in a wide range of wave–current conditions; the ripple migration rates, and thereby the bed load, are predicted within the correct order of magnitude for a wide range of wave–current conditions. 相似文献
19.
The Australian coast contains 10,685 beaches which occupy 49% of the 30,000 km coast and average 1.37 km in length. Their relatively short length is largely due to the presence of bedrock, calcarenite and laterite, which form boundaries to many of the beaches, as well as occurring as rocks, reefs and islands along and off the beaches. This geological inheritance plays a major role in Australian beach systems — determining their length and through wave refraction and attenuation influencing beach location, shape, type, morphodynamics and circulation, which in turn influence sediment transport and the backing dune and barrier systems. This paper uses a database covering every Australian beach to review the role of headlands, rocks and reefs on Australian beaches. Major effects are the short average beach length; reduction in breaker height resulting in lower energy beach types; wave refraction resulting in increased beach curvature; the presence of topographic rips on moderate and higher energy beaches and megarips during high wave conditions; and the interruption of and/or trapping of longshore sand transport leading to beach rotation. 相似文献
20.
Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/wsT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/wsT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/wsT, promoting erosion. 相似文献