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1.
总结破碎波近年来的研究状况,从理论上对计算破碎波发生率进行分析。并利用先进的实验设备和良好的现场条件,从实验研究出发,在研究波浪破碎过程及其与环境参量的关系中,对破碎波发生率进行实际测量。利用不同的破碎波判据对破碎波发生率进行了计算、比较和分析,结果指出;利用不同的破碎波判据计算的破碎波发生率相差很大,甚至相差3~4倍。  相似文献   

2.
非线性波消波及波场分布研究   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0  
本文基于雷诺平均N-S方程,并结合RNG k-e方程建立了粘性数值波浪水槽,对不同波陡、不同相对水深、不同相对波高的非线性规则波的阻尼消波问题和波场分布进行研究。文中提出了两种描述消波区内部阻尼变化的阻尼函数,分别适用于小波陡情形和高波陡情形。研究结果表明,小波陡组消波区可设为一个波长,阻尼系数取10~4~10~5即可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果及造波理论吻合良好;高波陡组消波区可设为两个波长,阻尼系数取10~4~10~5亦可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果吻合良好。此外,当波陡较小时,波场内反射情况的小幅改变即可对整个波场造成影响,特别是当水深较浅时这种影响极为明显,需谨慎考虑。当波陡较大时,水波能量较高,整个波场沿水波传播方向可观测到明显的衰减现象,在具体试验中需进行考虑。  相似文献   

3.
不规则波越波量的实验研究   总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4  
本文试验研究了不规则波在斜坡式和直墙式海堤或护岸上的越波量,给出了计算无因次越波量的公式,研究了斜堤堤坡和波谱宽度对越波量的影响。还探讨了利用概率分布法由规则波越波量计算不规则波越波量的可行性.  相似文献   

4.
黎满球 《热带海洋》1994,13(4):9-16
根据香港附近海区1985,1986年两次台风大浪的实测资料,以有效波高为相应水平,对波群作统计分析,得出可供海洋工程参考的波群连长、波群重复长度、波出现频率以及波群中最大波高与有效波高的关系等。并将统计值与理论值作比较,结果表明:统计值大于“连”的理论值,而与包线理论中采用合田修公式的计算值相近。  相似文献   

5.
利用改进后的VOF方法计算规则波破碎后形成的稳态波高,计算与实验结果吻合良好。  相似文献   

6.
采用遗传算法作为优化手段,以透射系数为目标函数,对给定横剖面面积的浮式防波结构物在规则波中的消波性能及剖面形状进行了最优化计算研究,探讨了透射系数最小的剖面形状与波浪周期之间的关系,为浮式防波结构物的设计提供了一定的理论依据  相似文献   

7.
基于推板造波理论和摇板造波理论,在Open FOAM平台上采用重叠网格技术建立黏性数值波浪水槽,并使用一种结合SIMPLE算法和PISO算法的PIMPLE算法对数值模型进行求解。利用开发的数值模型通过数值收敛性测试和网格独立性测试分别重点研究了时间步长、库朗数和网格尺寸对数值精度和计算效率的影响。并对比研究了此数值模型分别嵌入层流模型和湍流模型的计算精度和计算效率。实现的规则波和二阶有限振幅波与理论结果和试验结果吻合,验证了此黏性数值波浪水槽的造波和主动消波功能。基于二维数值波浪水槽,进一步研究了三维数值造波,数值计算结果与理论结果吻合良好。研究结果不仅验证了重叠网格在二维和三维两相流体域中求解运动物体与流场交互的可靠性和正确性,而且为使用此黏性数值波浪水槽解决更复杂的海洋工程问题提供了依据。  相似文献   

8.
高志一  文凡  李洁 《海洋科学》2011,35(9):96-106
对波群内单个波的波陡分布和波破碎进行了实验研究。研究结果是,波群中波动的最大振幅出现在波群前部而不是出现在波群中央,这种不对称性导致波群前部单个波出现大波陡的概率大于后部单个波出现大波陡的概率;进一步的波破碎统计发现波群前部单个波破碎的频率是后部单个波破碎频率的4倍。因此认为,波群结构的不对称性能够导致单个波发生破碎的...  相似文献   

9.
不规则波远破波对直墙的作用   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
基于物模试验、理论推理、因次分析和工程实例验证等综合分析方法,就不规则波远破波对直墙作用力的计算方法进行了研究,用推荐的方法得到的结果与工程实例符合较好.  相似文献   

10.
利用有限元声场计算软件 COMSOL,仿真实验了 Lamb 波在水下弹性板直角板端反射并发生模态转换时的散射声场,通过对散射声场的分析,结合能量守恒定律,忽略杂散波(如棱角波)近似计算了 Lamb 波在水下弹性板直角板端的模态转换效率,并且与理论值进行了比较。  相似文献   

11.
以高精度再分析风场为驱动,利用SWAN模式模拟了台风“达维”Damrey(2005)经过北部湾海域时的波浪场。通过与实测的风和波浪实测对比发现,波浪后报结果与实测结果符合较好。文章给出了台风浪期间波高、周期、波长和波向等要素的分布特征,讨论了以台风眼为中心不同海域的波浪方向谱特征。本文最后分析了台风期间实测波浪能谱的变化特征。  相似文献   

12.
A hindcast simulation of 75 typhoons and winter monsoons which affected the coastal areas of Korean Peninsula is performed by use of a third generation ocean wave prediction model, WAM-cycle 4 model, loosely coupled with a com-bined tide and surge model. Typhoon wind fields are derived from the planetary marine boundary layer model for effective neutral winds embedding the vortical storm wind from the parameterized Rankin vortex type model in the limited areas of the overall modeled region. The hindcasted results illustrate that significant wave heights (SWH) considering the wave-tide-surge coupled process are significantly different from the results via the decoupled case especially in the region of the estuaries of the Changjiang Estuary, The Hangzhou Bay, and the southwestern tip of Korean Peninsula. This extensive model simulation is the first attempt to investigate the strong wave-tide-surge interaction for the shallow depth area along the coasts of the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea Continental  相似文献   

13.
长江口的台风浪及其对崇明东滩的冲淤作用   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
本文分析了多年的台风和波浪资料得到如下的结果:对崇明东滩有较大影响的台风路径主要有两类:即在浙江中部至长江口登陆的台风和在长江口外侧海域转向北上的台风;佘山岛海洋站百年一遇的最大波高为5.6m;台风期间偏北、东北、东南的强风向均能引起长江口较大的增水现象。 本文还以8310号台风为例,阐明了台风前后的冲淤变化及台风浪塑造的滩地地貌形态。指出东旺沙和北八效高潮滩冲淤甚微,中低潮滩冲刷严重,奚东沙高潮滩冲刷严重,中低潮滩呈微淤状态。波浪对东滩塑造的主要地貌形态有冲刷坑和浪蚀泥坎。  相似文献   

14.
西北太平洋浪流相互作用对有效波高的影响研究   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
西北太平洋强流区会对海浪的特征和分布产生显著的影响,尤其是研究台风过程中海流与海浪的相互作用具有重要的研究意义。本文以ROMS海洋模式和SWAN海浪模式为基础,构建了浪流耦合模式系统,对2013年10月6-17日间的台风“丹娜丝”、“百合”、“韦帕”过程中西北太平洋浪流相互作用中海流对有效波高的影响进行了研究。通过对比模式模拟有效波高与浮标观测资料,发现耦合后的有效波高比非耦合结果更接近观测值,耦合模式中海流的存在对有效波高的分布有明显的影响。研究表明,特别是在有效波高峰值处,海流引起的有效波高增大最大可达1 m。海浪浪向及流向的空间分布以及中国近海浮标处浪向与流向的时间序列表明,流向与浪向反向时,海流的影响造成有效波高增大;二者同向时,有效波高减小。海流对有效波高的调整会沿着海浪传播的方向传播相当一段距离。在西北太平洋的海浪场计算中,引入海流的耦合模式计算结果对改善强流区海浪预报具有重要意义,并且海流的模拟精度对于高精度的海浪预报非常重要。  相似文献   

15.
利用SWAN波浪模型计算长江口附近海域的台风浪,鉴于长江河口岸界和地形复杂,拟采用曲线网格.为证实曲线网格下的SWAN模型对于复杂地形的有效性,首先选用美国特拉华大学波浪水池实验资料对SWAN模型进行检验,结果表明利用曲线网格能不过多增加计算量而提高关键区域的计算精度.以0215号鹿沙台风和0216号森拉克台风为例,将SWAN模型应用到长江口附近海域,进行台风浪的数值模拟.通过浮标测站实测资料验证,表明有效波高计算值与实测值符合良好.通过综合分析模型计算的波浪场,说明SWAN模型能合理地反映长江口附近海域台风浪的分布.  相似文献   

16.
Typhoon-generated waves are simulated with two numerical wave models, the SWAN model for the coastal and Yangtze Estuary domain, nested within the WAVEWATCHIII (WW3) for the basin-scale East China Sea domain. Typhoon No. 8114 is chosen because it was very strong, and generated high waves in the Estuary. WW3 was implemented for the East China Sea coarse-resolution computational domain, to simulate the waves over a large spatial scale and provide boundary conditions for SWAN model simulations, implemented on a fine-resolution nested domain for the Yangtze Estuary area. The Takahashi wind model is applied to the simulation of the East China Sea scale (3-hourly) and Yangtze Estuary scale (1-hourly) winds. Simulations of significant wave heights in the East China Sea show that the highest waves are on the right side of the storm track, and maxima tend to occur at the eastern deep-water open boundary of the Yangtze Estuary. In the Yangtze Estuary, incoming swell is dominant over locally generated waves before the typhoon approaches the Estuary. As the typhoon approaches the Estuary, wind waves and swell coexist, and the wave direction is mainly influenced by the swell direction and the complex topography.  相似文献   

17.
This paper describes a new procedure of directional wave analysis from pitch-roll buoy measurements. The two previous procedures adopted by the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) [Steele, K. E., Lau, J. C. K. and Hsu, Y.-H. L. (1985) Theory and application of calibration techniques for an NDBC directional wave measurement buoy. IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering OE-10(4), 382-396; Steele, K. E., Teng, C.-C. and Wang, D. W. C. (1992) Wave direction measurements using pitch-roll buoys. Ocean Engineering 19(4), 349-375] are relevant to our formulations. In these two studies, an estimate for the total phase shift of the sea surface displacement/slope spectra from the measured buoy heave/pitch and heave/roll spectra was calculated either by a weighted average method or a maximum heave/pitch quad-spectrum method. These two formulations were based on a fundamental assumption of symmetric hull-mooring effect on pitch and roll motions, which will never be true in the oceans. In the present study we essentially incorporate the basic formulations of NDBC, but calculate two estimates for this total phase shift.Examples of directional wave analysis from data measured by a 3 m diameter discus buoy during Typhoon Herb are presented in this paper. This data set was also analyzed by the weighted average method of Steele et al. (1985) which yielded unsatisfactory results of wave directions during severe wave climates.  相似文献   

18.
The experimental studies of the wave breaking effects on freak wave generation are presented within a finite-depth random wave train in a laboratory wave tank. The main attention is paid to the abnormal index, AI=Hmax/Hs, being used to characterize the freak waves, and the changes of the coefficient due to wave breaking. The results show that the occurence in deep water is larger than that in shallow water.  相似文献   

19.
The experimental studies of the wave breaking effects on freak wave generation are presented within a finite-depth random wave train in a laboratory wave tank. The main attention is paid to the abnormal index,AI=Hmax/Hs,being used to characterize the freak waves,and the changes of the coefficient due to wave breaking. The results show that the occurrence probability of freak wave events in non-breaking waves is much larger than that in breaking waves and such occurrence in deep water is larger than that in ...  相似文献   

20.
Unified Water Gravity Wave Theory and Improved Linear Wave   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
- Based on Least Square Method, this paper presents variational principle for handling various water gravity wave theories and the unified water gravity wave theory was given. By using this variational principle of unified water wave theory, two kinds of improved linear waves were derived. The first one uses the same boundary conditions which were applied to derive 5-order Stokes wave. The second one uses the accurate boundary conditions (Eqs. 11 and 12). The two improved linear waves were compared with the existing linear wave.  相似文献   

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