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1.
To explore the nourishment effect and disaster reduction efficiency of a fully dissipative dry beach under the impact of storms, this paper uses the measured topography and hydrodynamic data to establish a onedimensional numerical model of the XBeach beach profile. By numerically modeling the change in the nourished profile for different dry beach widths under normal waves and storm conditions and the recovery process of the profile after the storm, the degree of response in dry beach nourishmen...  相似文献   

2.
- A mumerical model for the calculation of shoreline evolution of a straight beach is developed. In this model, the influence of the change of shoreline orientation during evolution on the change of wave refraction is considered. Using this model, the results of computation of the deposition period on the updrift side of a breakwater agree well with the results by a physical model. In computation of the shoreline erosion on the downdrift side of that breakwater, the influence of the variation of longshore breaker height is considered. This model can be used to predict the shoreline erosion-deposition pattern on both sides of a coastal structure on a sand beach or to evaluate the effective service period and the length of sand trapping structure.  相似文献   

3.
Based on the singleline theory, a numerical simulation is presented to predict the shoreline evolution on sand beach. A parabolic equation of longshore sediment transport and boundary conditions are proposed. The combined effect of wave diffraction and refraction on the shoreline evolution on the downdrift side of the breakwater is taken into account and is calculated using the theory of regular waves and irregular waves. The present model is verified by the field observation data of erosion for half a year on the downdrift side of a harbor, and compared with some experimental results. The numerical results are in good agreement with the field measured and experimental data.  相似文献   

4.
A process-based 3D numerical model for surfzone hydrodynamics and beach evolution was established. Comparisons between the experimental data and model results proved that the model could effectively describe the hydrodynamics, sediment transport feature and sandbar migration process in the surfzone with satisfactory precision. A series of numerical simulations on the wave breaking and shoaling up to a barred beach were carried out based on the model system. Analyzed from the model results, the wave-induced current system in the surfzone consists of two major processes, which are the phase-averaged undertow caused by wave breaking and the net drift caused by both of the nonlinear wave motion and surface roller effect. When storm waves come to the barred beach, the strong offshore undertow along the beach suppresses the onshore net drift, making the initial sandbar migrate to the seaside. Under the condition of calm wave environment, both the undertow and net drift flow to the shoreline at the offshore side of the sandbar, and then push the initial sandbar to the shoreline. The consideration of surface roller has significant impact on the modeling results of the sandbar migration. As the roller transfer rate increases, the sandbar moves onshore especially under the storm wave condition.  相似文献   

5.
A reformed numerical model based on the “one-line theory” for beach deformation is presented. In this model, the change of beach slope during coastline procession is considered.A wave numerical model combined with wave refraction, diffraction and reflection is used to simulate wave climate to increase numerical accuracy.The results show that the numerical model has a good precision based on the adequate field data. The results can be applied to practical engineering.  相似文献   

6.
By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field.  相似文献   

7.
-By use of the parabolic equation of numerical simulation of wave which is suitable forlarge-angle propagation and Crank-Nicolson differential method,the wave field at the Kemema Rivermouth has been studied for analysis of sediment movement in the area.In order to reflect wave energy lossaccurately,the Bretchneider-Reid formula is quoted and the friction coefficient in the formula is discussedin this paper.The calculation results indicate that the wave becomes a little damped at the mouth ofKemena River influenced by the topography and bottom friction,and the wave at the east beach is higherthan that at the west beach,because the east beach extends out.  相似文献   

8.
The existing numerical models for nearshore waves are briefly introduced, and the third-generation numerical model for shallow water wave, which makes use of the most advanced productions of wave research and has been adapted well to be used in the environment of seacoast, lake and estuary area, is particularly discussed. The applied model realizes the significant wave height distribution at different wind directions. To integrate the model into the coastal area sediment, sudden deposition mechanism, the distribution of average silt content and the change of sediment sudden deposition thickness over time in the nearshore area are simulated. The academic productions can give some theoretical guidance to the applications of sediment sudden deposition mechanism for stormy waves in the coastal area. And the advancing directions of sediment sudden deposition model are prospected.  相似文献   

9.
An Explicit High Resolution Scheme for Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The present study develops a numerical model of the two-dimensional fully nonlinear shallow water equations (NSWE) for the wave run-up on a beach. The finite volume method (FVM) is used to solve the equations, and a second-order explicit scheme is developed to improve the computation efficiency. The numerical fluxes are obtained by the two dimensional Roe' s flux function to overcome the errors caused by the use of one dimensional fluxes in dimension splitting methods. The high-resolution Godunov-type TVD upwind scheme is employed and a second-order accuracy is achieved based on monotonic upstream schemes for conservation laws (MUSCL) variable extrapolation; a nonlinear limiter is applied to prevent unwanted spurious oscillation. A simple but efficient technique is adopted to deal with the moving shoreline boundary. The verification of the solution technique is carried out by comparing the model output with documented results and it shows that the solution technique is robust.  相似文献   

10.
The coast of the Dapeng Peninsula has been honored as one of "the eight most beautiful coasts in China". The most precious tourism resource for the peninsula is headland bay beaches, among which the beach at Xichong on the southern coast of the peninsula is the longest and the most important one. The information of the stability, sedimentary source and shape change of the beach is very important for maintaining the beach in terms of sustainable development of the peninsula. Heavy minerals in the sand of the beach and the inland stream at Xichong are compared with those of a nearby beach on the same coast to determine the beach sand source; with help of a computer software, MEPBAY, the equilibrium planforms of the beaches on the peninsula are compared with those of an island without rivers to evaluate the stream’s effects on the beach stability; cross shore profiles along the Xichong beach are also surveyed in different seasons of a year to assess the annual shore normal beach changes affected by the stream input, and the relation between the equilibrium planform state and cross shore changes of the beach. It is shown that(1) stream is the main sedimentary source of the beach and the weathering materials of the rocky headlands on both sides of the bay transported by waves are the second source for the beach but it is limited, sand from an inner shelf is not the sedimentary source for the beach at present and was not even during the Holocene transgression;(2) the Xichong beach cannot reach static equilibrium around the entire bay shoreline, the segment of the shoreline where a stream outlet is located is in dynamic equilibrium, and the unstable section occurs in the wave shadow region in the lee of an offshore island;(3) no matter whether the section of the beach shoreline at Xichong is in an equilibrium state or not, it is eroded in the typhoon season and recovered after the season, the maximum change in erosion and accretion occurs in the unstable segment;(4) the Xichong beach can only have small sand body since it is supplied with sand mainly form inland streams, resulting in a possible danger in which sand loss induced by human activities or huge storms cannot be replenished naturally.  相似文献   

11.
By use of a shoreline-change numerical model (GENESIS) based on one-line theory, a preliminary modeling study on shoreline changes caused by a beach nourishment project in Beidaihe, China, is presented in this paper. Firstly, the GENESIS model is verified and model sensitivity to the major parameter changes is discussed by simulating a hydraulic model test. The beach nourishment project, after that the shoreline change is kept being monitored, is a small-scale emergency one carried out to use two bathing places on the west beach in the summer, 2008. In this paper the shoreline changes caused by the beach nourishment project are modeled by the GENESIS model, and the computed results fit well with the measured shorelines. With the same model and parameters, a long-term performance of the project is predicted, and the result shows that the bathing places only can be suitable for bathing in 2 to 3 years without subsequence nourishment project. Therefore, it is proposed to nourish the beaches in time to keep the service life of the beach in recent years and carry out the beach nourishment project for the whole west beach as soon as possible.  相似文献   

12.
陈海洲  谢琳 《海洋科学》2020,44(4):44-51
以乐东莺歌海三莺村岸段人工沙滩工程为例,其完工1年后的岸线监测结果,表明需要进一步对人工沙滩后的海滩岸线演变进行研究分析。通过GENESIS岸线演变模型模拟人工沙滩后的岸线变化,并尝试采用3种方法对模型进行验证。经过验证后,对人工沙滩工程后1年、3年、5年岸线变化进行了模拟分析。研究结果表明:GENESIS岸线演变模型对于包围型(拦沙堤和离岸堤结合方式)人工沙滩工程是适用的。工程完工1年后,补沙岸线形成了侵淤变化的凹凸弯曲岸线,侵淤幅度不大,5年后侵淤幅度变缓,开始逐渐趋于平衡。据此,也为人工沙滩后期的养护、补沙防护工作起到重要的参考作用。  相似文献   

13.
对海岸侵蚀特征及防治措施效果的分析表明,人工养滩方法是最为环保、长效、经济的海岸侵蚀防治方法.在详细介绍静态平衡岬湾和人工养滩的基本原理的基础上,重点阐述了人工岬湾养滩综合法的设计原则和总体思路,并以北戴河西海滩恢复治理工程为例进行了方案设计.  相似文献   

14.
文章分析秦皇岛4个海水浴场6个监测站位2015—2018年采集水质样品中粪大肠菌群和溶解氧的变化趋势,并结合《海水水质标准》和《海滨浴场游泳适宜度分级规定》,对4个浴场的水质进行分析评价。结果表明:粪大肠菌群是海水浴场的主要污染物,粪大肠菌群浓度的变化主要受降雨、游客数量、温度和陆源污染物影响。尤其强降雨后,粪大肠菌群浓度升高较明显。浴场的溶解氧含量变化不大,年均值均满足二类水质标准,其主要受水温和浮游生物等因素影响,高峰值多出现在9月和10月。秦皇岛4个海水浴场的水质优良状况表现为南戴河浴场最好、东山浴场和北戴河浴场次之、西浴场最差。  相似文献   

15.
潜式人工岬头和离岸式人工岬头是两种改良式人工岬头,与传统人工岬头相比,它们对岸滩的保护效果稍弱,但能改善岬湾内的水交换。以北戴河西海滩养滩工程为研究对象,采用数值模拟的方法,对潜式岬头和离岸式岬头的护滩效果和改善水交换效果进行研究比较。首先建立岸线演变模型和物质输运模型,对工程后的岸线演变及水交换情况进行模拟。岸线演变的模拟结果表明,潜式岬头和离岸式岬头的护滩效果均较好,但潜式岬头后的岸线形状相比离岸式岬头后更为平滑。同时讨论海滩的侵蚀和淤积特性对潜式岬头和离岸式岬头的影响以及潮汐条件对冲淡时间的影响。与传统岬头相比,潜式岬头和离岸式岬头可以很好地减少岬后冲淡时间以及改善岬湾内水交换,而护滩效果只是稍有减弱。因此,潜式岬头和离岸式岬头都是改善岬湾水交换的有效工程措施。  相似文献   

16.
Torrey Pines State Beach, a site with large seasonal fluctuations in sand level, received a small shoreface beach fill (about 160,000 m3) in April 2001. The 600 m-long, flat-topped nourishment pad extended from a highway riprap revetment seaward about 60 m, terminating in a 2 m-tall vertical scarp. A 2.7 km alongshore span, centered on the nourishment region, was monitored prior to the nourishment and biweekly to monthly for the following 2 years. For the first 7 months after the nourishment, through fall 2001, significant wave heights were small, and the elevated beach fill remained in place, with little change near and above Mean Sea Level (MSL). In contrast, the shoreline accreted on nearby control beaches following a seasonal pattern common in southern California, reducing the elevation difference between the nourished and adjacent beaches. During the first winter storm (3 m significant wave height), the shoreline retreated rapidly over the entire 2.7 km survey reach, forming an alongshore-oriented sandbar in 3 to 4 m water depth [Seymour, R.J., Guza, R.T., O'Reilly, W., Elgar, S., 2004. Rapid erosion of a Southern California beach fill. Coastal Engineering 52 (2), 151–158.]. We show that the winter sandbar, most pronounced offshore of the nourishment, moved back onto the beach face during summer 2002 (following the usual seasonal pattern) and formed a wider beach above MSL at the site of the original nourishment than on the control beaches. Thus, the April 2001 shoreline nourishment was detectable until late fall 2002, persisting locally over a full seasonal cycle. In an extended 7-year time series, total sand volumes (summed between the back beach and 8 m water depth, over the entire 2.7 km reach) exhibit multi-year fluctuations of unknown origin that are twice as large as the nourishment volume.  相似文献   

17.
大量工程实践表明,海滩养护是当前抵御海岸侵蚀的常见措施。通过人为地向海滩补充沙源,以达到海岸防护、修复沙滩等目的。本文建立了XBeach一维海滩剖面演变数值模型,并与物理模型试验结果进行对比验证;计算常浪条件下不同方案补沙后海滩剖面达到平衡状态的速率;通过对比补沙工况与未补沙工况的风暴后剖面,分析风暴作用下的防护效果。结果发现,补沙量较大时,沙坝向海侧位置补沙在常浪条件下补沙效率高于滩肩补沙,在风暴条件下防护效果优于滩肩补沙。此次研究对于在实际海滩养护过程中节约施工成本、提高施工效率有着重要意义,同时对于评估沙滩养护工程效果有一定的参考价值。  相似文献   

18.
Erosion of the southern Gold Coast beaches (SE Queensland, Australia) was exacerbated after the extension of the Tweed River training walls in the early 1960s. To achieve the objective of restoring and maintaining beach amenity, significant nourishment works have been undertaken in Coolangatta Bay over the past 30 years. Particularly, under the Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypassing Project (TRESBP) since 1995, a number of nourishment campaigns and the implementation of a permanent sand bypass system in 2001 have resulted in significant changes of Coolangatta Bay morphology. The present case study investigates the influence of both wave climate and nourishment works on the area extending from the updrift Snapper Rocks area to downdrift Kirra Beach. SWAN spectral wave model is implemented at Coolangatta Bay area and forced by the global wave model WW3 to estimate wave forcing and the potential natural longshore drift entering in Coolangatta. Specific transects extracted from accurate bathymetric surveys are used to investigate and quantify Coolangatta Bay sedimentation for the period 1987–2005. A network of Argus video stations provides high sample rate information on the shoreline evolution. Results show that, over the past 10 years, Coolangatta Bay has infilled rapidly. Sedimentation reached up to 6 m in some areas between 1995 and 2005, with beach width increasing by 200 m at Kirra Beach. Rapid seaward shoreline migration is consistent with the intense over-pumping of sand relative to the natural potential to move sand alongshore. The nourishment strategy used during this project has successfully delivered large amounts of sand to the southern Gold Coast embayment, although it has been up to now controversial from many community perspectives. The artificial sand bypassing process proved to be much more efficient than depositing the dredged sand in the nearshore area which requires a significant period of low energy condition in order for the deposited sediment to migrate shoreward and weld to the shore. This case study confirms that, when carefully undertaken, sand bypassing is a sustainable and flexible soft engineering approach which can work in concert with natural processes.  相似文献   

19.
海岸侵蚀是沿海各国面临的共同问题,海滩养护是当前砂质海岸保护的最佳手段,在全球范围内得到广泛应用。本文回顾了海滩养护技术的发展历程,总结了世界范围的海滩养护实践,分析各国海滩养护理念上存在的差异。以研究文献为基础,总结归纳了平面和横向剖面的补砂方式、辅助工程技术和海滩模型预测等方面的海滩养护技术研究进展,并在此基础上提出了海滩养护的未来发展趋势:①针对复杂海岸的海滩养护应用拓展;②基于沉积物管理的海滩养护修复;③从地貌系统到生态系统全面考虑的海滩养护技术;④全球砂源赤字条件下的海滩保护和修复思路。  相似文献   

20.
朱磊  杨燕雄  杨雯  房克照 《海洋通报》2019,38(1):102-14
研究养护海滩对风暴潮的响应过程在人工养滩工程设计与施工中具有重要意义。老龙头养护海滩在竣工半个月后遭遇“803”风暴潮,导致岸滩滩肩最大蚀退 6.5 m,沙坝坝顶最大下蚀 1.2 m。在现场测量的基础上,利用 XBeach 建立风暴潮过程 的老龙头海滩海床演变模型,研究结果表明: (1) XBeach 模拟结果与实际地形变化侵淤趋势一致,风暴潮期间人工沙坝均向岸移动,但模拟结果的侵蚀程度更大,海滩响应更加剧烈; (2) 强浪条件下人工沙坝的透射系数为 0.29~0.42,常浪条件下透射系数为 0.45~0.95,因而人工沙坝在大浪条件下掩护作用更佳; (3) 风暴潮期间人工沙坝附近破波显著,坝顶流速明显增大,最大可达 1.21 m/s,是无人工沙坝情况下的 2.3 倍,而在人工沙坝向岸侧,因波能提前耗散,流速减为 0.28 m/s,是无人工沙坝时的 0.4 倍,且没有产生离岸流。老龙头养护工程整体泥沙损失较少,易于恢复.  相似文献   

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