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1.
粤东后江湾近岸长重力波特征分析   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
利用粤东后江湾近岸有限水深(包括碎波带)4个测点的压力波数据,依据波谱分析方法对4个测点的入射波有效波高、长重力有效波高、有效波陡、波面谱、谱宽度和谱尖度参量进行了统计和对比分析.分析认为,在近岸有限水深条件下,波浪由近岸(相对水深0.201)到破、碎波带运动过程中,(1)长重力波有效波高呈增大趋势,至破、碎波带位置增幅最为明显;(2)入射波有效波高至破、碎波带区域达到最大,在破波带外有限水深区域呈现先增大后减小的变化趋势;(3)有效波陡、谱宽度参数呈增大趋势;(4)波浪内部能量向高、低频段发生转移,至破、碎波带区域转移程度最为明显,在峰值频率的高、低频段形成谱峰;长重力波谱强度在破、碎波带区域明显高于对应有限水深测点.  相似文献   

2.
本文对胶州湾实测双峰海浪谱的资料进行了统计分析和谱分析,探讨了双峰谱型海浪的波要素概率分布及其群性特征,并与单峰谱型海浪进行了比较,最后通过双峰谱的合成波高,周期与实测值的比较,对采用能量迭加式的式(9)和式(8)进行一些讨论,主要结果列于本文最后一节。  相似文献   

3.
本文对胶州湾实测双峰海浪谱的资料进行了统计分析和谱分析,探讨了双峰谱型海浪的波要素概率分布及其群性特征,并与单峰谱型海浪进行了比较.最后通过双峰谱的合成波高、周期与实测值的比较,对采用能量迭加方式的式(9)和式(8)进行一些讨论,主要结果列于本文最后一节.  相似文献   

4.
在实验室风浪槽中观测风浪和风速,研究粗糙度与波面特征量的关系,发现风浪谱宽度增加,粗糙度增大。在窄谱时,粗糙度随谱宽的增加变化不明显,当波陡降低,粗糙度降低;在宽谱时,当谱宽度增加,即使波陡降低,粗糙度仍可增大。这一结果表明,波陡不足以完全决定粗糙度。当风浪波龄增加,粗糙度呈下降趋势,但由于谱宽度对粗糙度的影响,当波龄增加,部分波浪可有较大的粗糙度。由于这一因素,在粗糙度与波龄关系的观测结果中,数据点的散落不完全由观测误差造成。  相似文献   

5.
通过分析实验室风浪资料,研究风浪波高间的相关性以及波群中波高累积概率问题,发现风浪波高间相关性虽然主要发生在相邻波之间,但在隔1个波和隔2个波的波高间仍存在一定的相关性。谱宽度对波高间的相关性产生影响,但在相邻波、隔1个波和隔2个波情形下,谱宽度对波高间的相关性的影响方式不同。在相邻波情形下,谱宽度主要影响较大波高间的相关性,对各种高度波高间的总体相关性影响很小。而在隔1个波和隔2个波情形下,谱宽度对各种高度波高间的总体相关性有明显影响。根据实验结果提出含有波高相关因子的波群中多个波波高累积概率分布。  相似文献   

6.
海浪的群性及其主要特征参数   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
本文综述了目前研究波群的三类主要方法——包线理论、连的统计理论和波能过程线法及其描述群性的主要参数,结合实测资料,从波群的高度和长度两个方面对它们进行了分析比较,建议了能较好描述波浪群性的方法和参数。给出了三个测站处海浪的群性参数。探讨了群性对波高分布和组成波相位分布的影响以及波浪记录长度对计算群性参数的影响。  相似文献   

7.
波浪反射系数谱的特征分析   总被引:2,自引:1,他引:2  
应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.  相似文献   

8.
在实验室风浪槽中观测风浪,发现波群连长是影响波群中波高分布的重要因素,随着波群连长增大,波群中波高分布信息熵增大。当以平均波高无因次化,连长较大时波群中波高累积概率明显大于连长较小时情形。波群中波高分布受谱宽度影响。当谱宽度增大,波群中波高累积概率降低。谱宽度和波群连长对波群中波高累积概率的影响相当。引进体现波群特性的1个无因次化波高参量研究波群中波高累积概率。  相似文献   

9.
文章基于长乐海滩前滨剖面的实测波浪数据, 通过统计分析以及谱分析的方法, 探讨了潮汐过程中长乐海滩波浪参数及耗能过程的变化规律。结果表明, 观测期间内波浪以混合浪为主, 各测点谱型较宽, 存在多峰振荡现象。向岸传播过程中, 波能耗散的形式为窄频域向宽频域转变, 能量分布趋于分散, 高频波能减小, 低频波能反而有所上升, 波浪破碎后生成长重力波。破波带内的能量衰减与波浪传播距离具有良好的相关性, 破碎波能在破波带内大约衰减了98.3%。潮汐水位对波浪具有明显的调制作用。入射波能随潮汐水位的增加而有所增加, 且水位越高, 入射波能分布越分散。破波带内的有效波高和潮汐水位具有显著的正相关关系。潮汐过程中固定测点的波谱变化与波浪沿剖面的波谱变化具有明显的相似性。  相似文献   

10.
波能装置-浮式防波堤是将浮式防波堤与波能转换装置集成,兼具防波消浪和捕获波浪能的集成装置,能够有效降低单一功能波能转换装置的成本。研究者们提出了许多波能装置-浮式防波堤的结构型式,其中非对称式浮体结构相比于对称式浮体结构,在单向入射波的水动力性能方面拥有一定的优势。本文针对导桩锚泊的非对称式方箱-三角形挡浪板和方箱-垂直挡浪板两种浮体结构型式,通过数值模拟的方式,对比分析其水动力特性和波能俘获特性。数值模型基于黏性流体理论,以Navier-Stokes方程为控制方程,并采用VOF方法和浸没边界法求解自由面边界和流固耦合作用,探究不同入射波周期、水深和浮体排水条件下集成装置水动力性能(消波特性、能量耗散特性和波能俘获特性)变化趋势。结果表明,在近岸波浪条件下(5~8 s),垂直挡板型式集成装置适用于较小周期波浪(5~6 s),而三角挡板型式集成装置适用于较大周期波浪(6~7.5 s)。随着水深增大,波能俘获比总体上呈现缓慢增长的趋势。在主浮体吃水相同的情况下(排水量不同),两种结构的透射系数基本一致;而在排水量相同(主浮体吃水不同)的情况下,垂直挡板结构型式的防波效果更好,三角挡板结构型...  相似文献   

11.
The analysis of the structure of the cryolithozone, facies, and thicknesses of the Quaternary sediments and the results of the physicochemical mathematical modeling of the modern shelf of the western part of the Laptev Sea support the influence of the Late Pleistocene glaciations on the heat conditions and the distribution of the permafrost in the area. A ~200-m thick glacier formed under aerial conditions from atmospheric precipitation represented the metamorphosed snow cover. According to the modeling, the long-living (from 60?50 to 10?4 ky) glacier reduced the thickness of the permafrost rocks in the reviewed shelf area for 280–360 m. The Holocene marine transgression additionally decreased the thickness from 50–140 m on the inner shelf to 220–350 m on the outer shelf. The modern submarine cryolithozone 450-0 m thick is wide-spread in the studied region from the coast to the shelf boundary (isobaths of 130–140 m), where it pinches out at a distance of ~380 km from the coast at a depth of ~250 m above the sea level.  相似文献   

12.
We analyze the components of the carbon system of the Sevastopol bay waters and the balance of main sediment-forming substances using the data of field investigations in 1998–2008. The interannual variations of total inorganic carbon and the equilibrium partial pressure of carbon dioxide in the bay water are noted. An increase in the flux of carbon dioxide into the bay and in the content of organic carbon in bottom sediments is revealed, and an explanation of this phenomenon is given. The priority accumulation of organic carbon in the sediments of the bay is established. We assess the interannual variation in the relative abundances of organic and inorganic carbon as an index of the carbon cycle stability.  相似文献   

13.
We generalize and analyze the state of investigations of the influence of river waters on the hydrologic structure of the Black Sea. Specific features of the water, regime and hydrography of rivers flowing into the sea, data on the discharge of rivers, and intrayear and interyear variability of the discharge are presented. We discuss and analyze works studying the transformation of river waters, routes of desalinized sea waters, and their influence on the thermohaline structure and dynamic regime of the sea. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev  相似文献   

14.
We analyze the results of numerical calculations performed according to the three-dimensional interdisciplinary model of an ecological system of the Black-Sea shelf zone near the estuary of the Danube. The complete system of equations of hydrothermodynamics is solved together with transport equations of the advection-diffusion-reaction type used to describe the transformation of a substance (nitrogen) between the components of the characteristic vectors of the ecosystem: plankton, detritus, and biogenic elements (nitrates). We describe the distinctive features of the circumcontinental distribution of components obtained as a result of numerical experiments and present arguments for the conclusion that the ecosystem of the Danube estuary water area plays the role of a buffer zone between the press of the Danubian biogenic pollutions and the neighbouring areas of the shelf zone and open sea. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev  相似文献   

15.
Ten years of semistationary studies of the interaction of the ice cover and the coastal relief of the Kandalakhsa Gulf in the White Sea allowed us to reveal the peculiarities of these processes in the warm and cold years and the mechanisms of the origination of ice forms, including ice tents, which govern the character of the tidal flats. Three dynamic fast ice zones are distinguished by their geomorphological location, morphology, and ice dynamics. The dependence of the mechanisms and volumes of the enrichment of the fast ice in the sediments on the coastal zone??s relief was established. At the coast of the Kindo Peninsula (Velikaya Salma Strait), the ice mostly contains fine-sandy sediments. Coarser sediments, including boulders, are occasional and frozen into the ice at the contact of the fast ice and the bottom. At the expense of the ice??s spreading by 4?C6 times in the warm years and 2?C4 times in the cold years, several thousand tons of sediments mostly from the tidal flat??s surface (100?C700 m3 from 1 km of coast in the wide tidal flats and <50 m3 on the steep coasts) are delivered to the water area.  相似文献   

16.
A relationship between paths of the Kuroshio and Kuroshio Extension (KE) is investigated, using the satellite-derived altimetry dataset of 1993–2008. When the Kuroshio takes the nearshore nonlarge meander path or typical large meander path and resultantly goes through the deeper channel (about 2500 m) of the Izu-Ogasawara Ridge, the KE path adopts a relatively stable state with the two quasi-stationary meanders. On the other hand, when the Kuroshio takes the offshore nonlarge meander path and then passes over the shallower part of the Ridge (about 1000 m), the KE path tends to be convoluted, i.e., an unstable state.  相似文献   

17.
We use many-year archival observations of hydrologic and hydrobiologic state of the Sea of Azov for the identification of the structure of a model of its ecosystem. The ecosystem model, supplemented with expert estimates of bioresource consumption (fish reserve), contamination level, and possible ecologic fines for violation of the sea natural state, is formalized by the method of system dynamics. Hereat, the major part of influence functions is found in terms of observational data with application of self-organization algorithms. We also present the results of simulated experiments with the model of the ecosystem, which enable us to analyse scenarios of its behaviour under the influence of various external factors (wind, river discharge, water exchange with the Black Sea, etc.). Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev  相似文献   

18.
Three mathematical models are considered: a two-dimensional model for calculating the concentration fields of the ecosystem components on the shelf of the Republic of Guinea, a pointwise model for the annual variation of the components, and a two predators-prey model. These models are used to study the effect of hydrodynamic conditions on the state of the shelf ecosystem and for research into the causes which distort the balance between marketable and unmarketable fish.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.  相似文献   

19.
The first data on the temporal evolution of the slope of the buried depression of the Black Sea are obtained. The sharp change in the rate of the decrease in the slope steepness that occurred in the Late Miocene-Pliocene time reflects a reorientation of the vector of mutual movement and a related intensification of the collision between the Arabian and Eurasian lithospheric plates.  相似文献   

20.
The stages of the development of the basin of the Bransfield Strait   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The study of the sedimentary body of the Bransfield Strait has made it possible to identify several sedimentary complexes, to construct the first electronic charts for the acoustic basement, and to establish four stages of the evolution of its floor, which updates the previous knowledge about the formation of the strait. At the first stage, there was an increase in tension stresses that were accompanied by the local splits of the continental crust at the periphery of the Antarctic Peninsula. At the second stage, a graben-like structure filled with the Lower stratigraphic complex was formed northward of the Antarctic Peninsula. At the third stage, the continuing processes of extension led to intensive explosive activity of the growing volcanic structures and filling of the graben with sediments of the Middle seismostratigraphic complex. The fourth stage, which has continued until recently, is characterized by quasi-linear localization of the major centers of volcanic activity in the band closer to the South-Shetland Islands and the formation of the Upper seismostratigraphic sedimentary complex. The evolution of the floor of the Bransfield Strait reflects the process of penetration of the American-Antarctic ridge to the continental lithosphere of the Antarctic Peninsula for the last million years.  相似文献   

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