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1.
基于1959、1979、2010、2013年4个年份的水深资料,采用地理信息技术,研究了1959—2013年间宁波镇海沿岸海域的岸线变化、特征等深线分布变化及剖面变化,并定量计算了水下岸坡的冲淤变化.结果表明,在这54 a间,岸线持续向海推进约3～5 km,0、3、5 m等深线总体上也向海推进,幅度约330～5 600 m;但由于0 m等深线的推进速率小于岸线,因此干出滩面积锐减.相应的,不同时段水下岸坡的淤积速率分别为0. 46、2. 82、14. 14 cm/a,说明该水下岸坡经历了冲淤基本平衡—轻微淤积—较快淤积的调整过程.结合实测水文泥沙资料,探讨了水下岸坡的冲淤原因和动态趋势,得到了杭州湾南岸大规模围垦工程会维持并加快水下岸坡淤积的结论. 相似文献
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波浪在珊瑚礁地形上破碎特性试验研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
对波浪在珊瑚礁地形上的传播特性进行了物理试验研究,将珊瑚礁地形简化为坡度为1∶5的陡坡(向海坡)加较长水平礁坪段的地形,对规则波和不规则波在该地形条件下的波浪破碎及波高沿程衰减进行了研究。结果表明,波高较小时,波浪破碎发生在礁坪上,但随着入射波高的增大,破碎位置逐渐向来浪方向移动,直至在向海坡段破碎。对于在礁坪上破碎的波浪,相对水深db/L0一定的条件下,破碎波高与入射波陡H0/L0相关,且变化趋势受相对水深db/L0的影响。同时给出了该地形条件下波浪破碎指标以及礁坪段破碎后沿程波高的计算公式。 相似文献
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利用旁扫声呐、浅地层剖面、测深以及钻探等资料分析了海南岛乐东陆架区海底沙波的形态特征、底质及地层结构;分常态和台风作用两种环境条件。计算了沙波的移动速率.并与海南岛东方陆架区沙波特征进行了对比分析.研究表明:乐东陆架沙波以大型沙丘和小型沙波为主。其剖面都极不对称.沙丘多为新月形,波长多为50～100m,波高多为1～3m,对称系数在6～12之间;小型沙歧脊残多置直线型,波高多在0.1～0.5m之间.研究区沙波活动性较强,常态下迁移速率与东方沙波区西区相同,每年0.06～2m;在台风影响下,沙丘表面活动砂层的移动性增强,在活动砂体迁移的部位则可能出现冲蚀凹坑或沟槽;中小型沙波移动速率骤增,最大可达7～11m/h。 相似文献
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利用不同年份的水深地形资料进行冲淤计算,结合实测水文泥沙、现场岸滩沉积地貌观察、新老海堤分布位置及以往浅地层探测和考古等资料综合分析发现,岸滩地貌形态从大约距今7 000 a前的一个古基岩港湾经受细颗粒泥沙长期不断地充填、淤积转化为近乎平直的岸段.在自然和人类活动的共同作用下,近370 a来海岸线以5.3 m/a的速度向海推移,潮滩以0.25 cm/a的速率沉积.近40余年来水下岸坡平均冲淤速率为-3.8~2.4 cm/a,横向冲淤调整有类似砂质海岸剖面塑造的特性,泥沙经受了在横向剖面"上部微淤、下部微冲"和纵向总体"东侧微冲、中西部微淤"的交替重复调整过程,目前朝着"上部微淤、下部微冲"的均衡剖面调整方向发展. 相似文献
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南沙群岛珊瑚岛礁众多,大多数岛礁具有向海坡陡峭、外礁坪比较平缓的特征。将南沙群岛岛礁的迎浪向地形概化为陡坡和缓坡组成的双斜坡,采用FUNWAVE-TVD模式数值模拟概化地形上的波浪,根据模拟的破碎波高分析其拍岸浪特征。对拍岸浪数值模拟结果进行比较分析,向海坡的坡度对拍岸浪影响不大,外礁坪上拍岸浪高随地形坡度增大而略有增大;向海坡和外礁坪交界位置(即坡折点)水深对拍岸浪有比较明显的影响,拍岸浪高随坡折点水深增大而减小;拍岸浪高随入射波高和波周期增大而增大。利用大量的拍岸浪数值模拟数据对国内外5种统计模型进行检验,并且基于拍岸浪数值模拟数据建立了3种南沙群岛岛礁拍岸浪统计模型,计算结果显示这些模型适用性较好。 相似文献
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人类活动对河口环境影响巨大,揭示在强人类活动驱动下河口径潮动力非线性相互作用的异变特征,有利于了解人类活动影响河口动力地貌的机制,对河口区水利工程建设及环境保护等具有重要指导意义。基于1960—2016年珠江磨刀门河口沿程潮位站(甘竹、竹银、灯笼山、三灶)的逐月高、低潮位数据及马口水文站的月均流量数据,统计分析了磨刀门河口在强人类活动驱动下月均水位、潮波振幅及其空间梯度(即月均水位坡度和潮波振幅衰减率)的季节性异变特征。结果表明,1990年和2000年为磨刀门河口径潮动力的异变年份, 1990年前为自然演变阶段, 2000年后为恢复调整阶段,1990—2000年为过渡阶段;高强度采砂导致的河床下切使磨刀门河口月均水位及月均水位坡度显著减小,夏季减小幅度最为明显,沿程平均分别减小0.53m和8.93×10~(-6);月均水位坡度减小导致潮波衰减效应减弱,进而使沿程潮波振幅增大,多年平均增大0.071m;磨刀门河口径潮动力相互作用具有明显的季节性差异,夏季月均水位坡度随流量增大在上游抬升明显,冬季月均水位坡度在上游显著减小,但在下游略有抬升;随着流量的增大潮波振幅的衰减作用增强,但当流量超过阈值20000m~3/s时,月均水位坡度引起的底床摩擦增大效应不足以抵消横截面积辐散效应,潮波衰减效应略有减弱。 相似文献
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渤海湾西南岸粉砂淤泥质海岸处于岸滩蚀退状态,利用ECOMSED数值模拟方法,分析了港口工程建设对水动力和海底蚀淤的影响。研究结果表明,近岸海域-2 m等深线以内以侵蚀为主,侵蚀速率一般小于10 cm/a;-2~-6 m等深线以淤积为主,淤积速率一般在10 cm/a以下,局部大于20 cm/a,-6 m等深线侵蚀速率小于10 cm/a。黄骅港导沙堤建设后淤积区整体向海扩展,延伸至约-8 m等深线,面积增加约5.4%;航道最大淤积速率由61.9 cm/a减小为46.8 cm/a;导沙堤堤头受挑流作用冲刷速率达到29.7~30.2 cm/a。 相似文献
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海工建筑对周边岸滩演变分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
以多期地形图、海图,多时相航空影像图、卫星遥感影像,多年实测数据为主要数据源,运用“3 S”（ GIS、RS、GPS ）技术,系统分析了河北省秦皇岛市五十年来（1956年~2006年）海岸演变过程、动因及规律,探讨了海岸演变预测及对周边岸滩的影响和环境效应。结果表明,人工干预下岸滩演变对周边海滩产生较大影响,表现为改变局部流场,促进周边岸滩的发育,形成秦皇岛地区自然岸线整体侵蚀背景下的局部淤积现象,其演化特征为：海滩渐宽,年淤积量0.14 m~2.71 m。淤积速度减慢,0.04 m/a~0.7 m/a不等。坡度变缓,仅秦皇岛煤一期突码头至人工填筑地海滩坡度即降低3.8°（ 1985 年~2006 年）;岸线弧度减小,年均变化 0.083°~0.415°,湾顶位置逐年W、WWS向移动;海滩组成物细化,海滩砂中值粒径年均变化0.016 mm~0.035 mm。 相似文献
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采用探地雷达探测了昌黎海岸沙丘区典型横向沙脊和新月形沙丘的沉积构造,据此初步揭示了研究区海岸沙丘的沉积序列特征和发育过程。结果表明,昌黎海岸带在2 000 a BP波浪作用下发育滨岸沙坝,沙坝主要以向海向陆缓倾斜的沉积构造为主,现今的风成沉积发育于滨海相沙坝之上。海岸带向海一侧经历了潮上带前丘到横向沙脊的过程,横向沙脊在东北风的作用下主要发育向陆倾斜的高角度交错层理,同时由于向岸合成风力的阶段性变化,这些层理的倾角略有差异,记录了海岸带风沙活动的周期性变化;内侧新月形沙丘由4组倾角不同的层理组成,被较大规模的二级界面分隔,复合新月形沙丘(链)经历了由盾状沙堆到典型新月形沙丘的加积发育并遭受风蚀的过程。 相似文献
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2000年夏季南极普里兹湾及邻近海域浮游植物研究 总被引：3，自引：2，他引：3
报道了2000年夏季(1月)在62°~69°S,70°30'~75°30'E的南极普里兹湾邻近海域浮游植物种类组成、丰度分布、叶绿素a浓度及其环境调控.结果表明,调查海区共有浮游植物4门33属65种、变种和变型.浮游植物平均细胞丰度为32.67×103个/dm3.浮游植物细胞丰度和叶绿素a浓度高值均出现在水体较稳定的近岸海湾和冰间湖及毗邻陆架,在大陆坡和深海区它们的值明显减小.浮游植物细胞丰度和叶绿素a浓度在0~50m水层最大,100m以下水层随深度的增加而减小.浮游植物丰度呈昼夜变化,在13:00丰度最高.浮游植物优势种为短菱形藻(Nitzschiacurta),占总丰度的24.8%.浮游植物种类组成和细胞丰度与浮冰和水团稳定性有关.经回归分析,浮游植物细胞丰度与水温、溶解氧成显著正相关,与无机磷(PO43--P)和无机氮(NO3--N)成显著负相关. 相似文献
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水下沙丘形态演化的数值模拟实验 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
水下沙丘在海洋、湖泊、河流等浅水砂质沉积区广泛分布。基于过程的数值实验方法探讨了沙丘形态演化问题,试图解释在沙丘形成过程中各因素的作用及它们之间的关系。模拟中考虑了以下的变量:水深、沉积物粒度、沉积层厚度以及台风作用。模拟结果显示,沙丘的空间分布控制了空间流场的参数k2,沙丘波高受水深、沉积物粒度以及沉积层厚度等因素的影响,沉积层厚度决定了沙丘的形态是否饱满。在台风作用中,沙丘波峰的沉积物被侵蚀,高程降低,波高渐小;台风作用后,沉积物被重新输运至波峰,沙丘高度逐渐恢复。因此,沙丘的高度取决于台风作用的时间以及2次台风作用之间的间隔。沙丘形态和尺度在台风作用前后变化较小,但沙丘演化的速度却有所提高。根据台湾浅滩和北海南部地貌系统数据的验证,模拟具有较好的效果。 相似文献
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水下沙丘形态演化的数值模拟实验 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
水下沙丘在海洋、湖泊、河流等浅水砂质沉积区广泛分布。基于过程的数值实验方法探讨了沙丘形态演化问题,试图解释在沙丘形成过程中各因素的作用及它们之间的关系。模拟中考虑了以下的变量:水深、沉积物粒度、沉积层厚度以及台风作用。模拟结果显示,沙丘的空间分布控制了空间流场的参数k2,沙丘波高受水深、沉积物粒度以及沉积层厚度等因素的影响,沉积层厚度决定了沙丘的形态是否饱满。在台风作用中,沙丘波峰的沉积物被侵蚀,高程降低,波高渐小;台风作用后,沉积物被重新输运至波峰,沙丘高度逐渐恢复。因此,沙丘的高度取决于台风作用的时间以及2次台风作用之间的间隔。沙丘形态和尺度在台风作用前后变化较小,但沙丘演化的速度却有所提高。根据台湾浅滩和北海南部地貌系统数据的验证,模拟具有较好的效果。 相似文献
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Altogether three coastal dune fields, one located north and two south of the city of Essaouira, Atlantic Morocco, have been investigated to establish the distribution and overall sand volumes of various dune types. The purpose of the study was to characterize and classify the aeolian landforms of the coastal dune belt, to estimate their sand volumes and to assess the effectiveness of coastal dune stabilization measures. The northern dune field is 9 km long and lined by a wide artificial foredune complex fixed by vegetation, fences and branches forming a rectangular grid. Active and ephemeral aklé dunes border the inner backshore, while some intrusive dunes have crossed the foredune belt and are migrating farther inland. The total sand volume of the northern dune belt amounts 13,910,255 m3. The central coastal sector comprises a much smaller dune field located just south of the city. It is only 1.2 km long and, with the exception of intrusive dunes, shows all other dune types. The overall sand volume of the central dune field amounts to about 172,463 m3. The southern dune field is characterized by a narrower foredune belt and overall lower dunes that, in addition, become progressively smaller towards the south. In this sector, embryonic dunes (coppice, shadow dunes), tongue-like and tabular dunes, and sand sheets intrude from the beach, the profile of which has a stepped appearance controlled by irregular outcrops of old aeolianite and beach rock. The total volume of the southern dune field amounts 1,446,389 m3. For the whole study area, i.e. for all three dune fields combined, a sand volume of about 15,529,389 m3 has been estimated. The sand of the dune fields is derived from coastal erosion and especially the Tensift River, which enters the sea at Souira Qedima some 70 km north of Essaouira. After entering the sea, the sand is transported southwards by littoral drift driven by the mainly north-westerly swell climate and the Trade Winds blowing from the NNE. This sand feeds the beaches along the coast, from where it is blown obliquely onshore to generate the dune fields. The maximum sand input occurs in the north, from where it gradually decreases southwards, this being also reflected in the grain size and dune typologies. The study shows that dune stabilization measures have been reasonably effective along most of the coast, with the exception of a large area immediately north of Essaouira where the almost complete destruction of the plant cover has reactivated sand mobility—this may in the future threaten the city. 相似文献
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James R. Garrison Jr. Alberto M. Mestas-Nu?ez Joshua R. Williams Luz M. Lumb 《Geo-Marine Letters》2012,32(3):241-250
A study of the evolution of North Padre Island (southern Texas Gulf Coast) dunes was carried out using LIDAR topographic data, dune vibracores through the center of the dunes, and grab samples of shoreface sand at four locations along a cross-shore profile. Grain-size analyses of the vibracores show vertical variations in shoreface sand deposition over decimeter depth intervals. A dune ridge growth model is introduced that describes the dune vertical accretion rate as a function of island progradation and freshwater lens expansion. This model allows indirect dating of the dune core samples based on a known island progradation rate (1?m/year), and height and spacing of the dunes calculated from the topographic data. A sand provenance model is also proposed that links the sand deposition in the dunes with sand sourced from various depths along the shoreface profile, depending on storm activity. We present evidence linking the changes in storm-sand deposition in the dune cores with yearly climatic fluctuations in the Gulf of Mexico associated with landfalling tropical storm activity in the period from 1942?C1965. This record of storm-induced sand variability is negatively correlated with El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation (Pacific) sea surface temperature variability, and positively correlated with North Atlantic decadal sea surface temperature variability. 相似文献
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美国东岸,自纽约长岛经马里兰、新泽西直至弗罗里达基本属于沙坝渴湖岸,岸外的内、外陆架上分布一系列水下沙脊及脊间沙带、沙丘和沙波等次一级底形。按新泽西岸外20-80m水深处35个沙脊的统计,脊长约2～11km,宽约1～4km,长宽比界于2：1～3：1之间,与世界典型沙脊长宽比40：1比较,本区沙脊属于短轴浪控型,脊高约1～3m,或者更高。向NE10°～30°伸展,两坡不对称,上游坡平缓,下游坡较陡,约2．5°～7．0°。按34-48m水深处的“黄金沙脊”上的20余钻孔岩心分析和HC年龄测试,划分沙脊自下而上3层地层：9～11kaBP以前的平原陆相层;9—5kaBP的下部沙脊沙层;5kaBP以来的上部沙脊沙层。上部沙脊层不断向下游SE侧超越迁移,局部定位观测的沙脊迁移率为1～2m／a。 相似文献
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Current-generated bedforms were found on sandy seafloor at water depths of 200–400 m on the northern Izu Ridge, where the Kuroshio Current encounters and passes over the ridge. The observed bedforms include large dunes and sand ribbons and are interpreted to be products of present-day oceanographic conditions and to indicate intensive flow activity controlled by local topography. A comparison between the surface flow velocity estimated from empirical relationships for dune formation and the observed flow velocity suggests that the dunes are generated when the main axis of the meandering Kuroshio Current passes through this area, and that subsequent current velocities are sufficiently high to maintain the dunes up to the next event. 相似文献
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Very large subaqueous sand dunes were discovered on the upper continental slope of the northern South China Sea. The dunes were observed along a single 40 km long transect southeast of 21.93°N, 117.53°E on the upper continental slope in water depths of 160 m to 600 m. The sand dunes are composed of fine to medium sand, with amplitudes exceeding 16 m and crest-to-crest wavelengths exceeding 350 m. The dunes' apparent formation mechanism is the world's largest observed internal solitary waves which generate from tidal forcing on the Luzon Ridge on the east side of the South China Sea, propagate west across the deep basin with amplitudes regularly exceeding 100 m, and dissipate extremely large amounts of energy via turbulent interaction with the continental slope, suspending and redistributing the bottom sediment. While subaqueous dunes are found in many locations throughout the world's oceans and coastal zones, these particular dunes appear to be unique for two principal reasons: their location on the upper continental slope (away from the influence of shallow-water tidal forcing, deep basin bottom currents and topographically-amplified canyon flows), and their distinctive formation mechanism (approximately 60 episodic, extremely energetic, large amplitude events each lunar cycle). 相似文献