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Equilibrium erosion of soft rock shores with a shallow or absent beach under increased sea level rise 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A process-based numerical model was used to explore the response of soft rock shores with low volume beaches to variable rates of sea level rise. Equilibrium recession rates were simulated for ranges of wave height and period, tidal amplitude, rock strength, beach volume and rate of sea level rise. Equilibrium shore profiles were found to be steeper with higher rates of sea level rise. Beaches were represented as protective surfaces yet were found to cause no significant reduction in equilibrium recession rate when their volumes were below a critical threshold. Reduced equilibrium recession rates were found with beaches that extended sufficiently far below low tide level. The model results imply that, given several constraints, a very simple relationship exists between increased rates of sea level rise and the response of eroding composite soft rock/low volume beach shores. 相似文献
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对粤西水东弧形海岸长时段重复测量海滩剖面的因子分析说明了各特征岸段剖面的主要地貌状态。频域分析反映了各岸段海滩体积的月周振动峰值和对波能的响应特征。实测海滩剖面波动过程的计算则指示了当前各剖面的蚀积状态。 相似文献
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Anton McLachlan 《Marine environmental research》1982,6(1):37-47
Exposed sandy beaches filter huge volumes of sea water daily as a result of wave and tide action. A regression model is developed which predicts the volume of water filtered daily by a beach as a function of tide range, beach slope and sand particle size. From these parameters estimates are also made of intertidal distance, the degree of expansion of the intertidal above the still water tide range by wave action and the average path length through the sand interstices percolated by filtered sea water. An equation is derived relating the degree of mineralisation of organic matter in the filtered sea water to the distance filtered through the sand and the sand particle size. Employing all this information, a simple model is used to estimate the volumes of sea water filtered and the amounts of inorganic nitrogen regenerated by intertidal sandy beaches over a range of physical conditions. The implications of this nutrient generation for the inshore zone are discussed. 相似文献
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极端高能事件影响下的海滩动力地貌过程直接关乎岸滩稳定及海堤安全。本文基于2020年16号台风“浪卡”前后北海银滩顺直岸段的剖面高程及表层沉积物等资料, 探究了中等潮差的顺直响应台风作用的地貌变化机制。结果表明: 1) 台风后海滩地貌表现为冲流带的大型沙坝消失, 后滨沙丘-滩槽体系被削平, 滩面坡度趋于平缓。2) 银滩沉积物均以中砂、细砂和极细砂为主, 三者占比超过95%; 台风后, 高潮位带沉积物变细, 低潮位带沉积物变粗, 沙坝附近则出现粗细交错式变化; 银滩中高潮位带滩面响应台风过程的特征与强潮型海滩相似, 呈现消散型海滩的特征, 而低潮位带滩面则因大型沙坝的作用而呈现弱潮型海滩特征。3) 台风期间波浪是影响海滩的主要动力因素, 海滩地形影响了近岸水动力的表现形式, 从而改变了沉积物的粒径分布。 相似文献
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随着全球海平面的上升及极端气象的频发,全球海滩总体呈现出一定的退化现象,海滩保护成为海岸带生态修复的焦点问题之一。我国华南地区岬湾型海滩分布广泛,以深圳市大鹏湾官湖海滩为代表,基于2020—2021年实测海滩剖面高程数据,分析岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征。研究表明,官湖海滩剖面坡度夏秋缓冬春陡,夏秋侵蚀冬春淤积;海滩沉积物粒径季节性变化不明显。海滩剖面形态受风浪、平均潮位的季节性变化控制,以夏秋季为例,平均潮位逐渐升高,南向波浪强度较大,在二者的共同作用下,海滩后滨侵蚀明显,泥沙离岸输运,并在前滨淤积。补沙方案宜在夏秋季进行,且重点区域为官湖海滩东侧与观海湾海滩,防御方案应主要削弱南向波浪。 相似文献
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水动力时空变化对近岸风浪演化的影响——以渤海湾西南岸为例 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
采用SWAN模型和ADCIRC模型建立了风浪、潮汐和水流联合作用的耦合数值模式,并通过渤海湾西南岸实测资料对该模式进行了验证。利用该模式分析了近岸区水位和流场时空变化对风浪模拟结果的影响,计算结果表明水位变化对近岸区风浪模拟结果有显著影响,特别是中等大风过程高潮位时波高受水位影响的变化幅值可达0.5m以上,且水深越浅影响越大。但在岸滩平缓的近岸海域由于流速、流向的时空变化不太剧烈,流场作用和波浪辐射应力作用对波浪场的影响都基本可以忽略。在模拟近岸风浪过程时,应选用耦合模式。 相似文献
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海滩的演变特征是海岸地形动力学研究的一个重要内容。基于在海口湾假日海滩连续33d的地形剖面观测数据和台风前后表层沉积物粒度参数数据, 分析了海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面及沉积物变化特征。利用经验正交函数分析, 得出观测期间海口湾海滩有4个主要模态, 分别对应于涌浪对海滩的建设过程、当地风浪对海滩的侵蚀过程、台风对海滩的侵蚀过程和海滩特征地形的调整过程。研究结果表明: 涌浪和风浪对海滩剖面的作用受到了潮位调制的影响; 海口湾海滩显示出遮蔽型海滩变化特征; 沉积物粒度参数对海滩变化反应敏感, 可以提供丰富的海滩演变信息。 相似文献
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波浪和潮汐作用下的海滩剖面动态变化过程是海岸演变及沿海防护工程设计与旅游资源规划的核心内容。本文以广西钦州湾沙井半岛人工海滩为研究区, 基于GPS-RTK采集的2018年1月—2019年12月的逐月剖面高程实测数据, 通过分析剖面冲淤和单宽体积变化, 利用EOF(Empirical Orthogonal Function)函数揭示剖面的高程变化模式, 进而探讨海滩剖面的动态演变过程。研究的主要结果表明: 1) 在观测期间, 人工海滩剖面的冲淤情况整体展现出冬春季淤积、夏秋季侵蚀的变化特征; 2) 人工海滩剖面因泥沙横向输移而导致不同横向分带的单宽体积变化趋势呈差异性, 不同横向分带具有侵蚀与淤积交替出现的情况; 3) 人工海滩剖面的变化模式可划分为由强降雨及台风导致剖面高程明显降低的主要模式、波潮影响下的剖面高程经历强降雨及台风后逐渐淤积和恢复的次要模式、波浪破碎形成卷流引起滩面冲淤变化的其他模式。 相似文献
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粤东后江湾涨落潮下的碎波带波能与滩面地形时空变化分析 总被引：5，自引：1，他引：5
利用涌浪和处于陡滩面、滩面下陡坎和深槽海滩地形条件下的海滩碎波带压力波和滩面地形资料，对碎波带中的入射总波能、长重力波能及两者比值随潮位涨落的变化关系，碎波带动力因子与滩面地形之间的作用关系及典型相关和多维偏交叉谱关系等作了初步分析。结果表明，碎波带中的入射总波能与潮位涨落呈现出一致的变化规律；而碎波带中的长重力波能变化与潮位涨落变化趋势相反；碎波带各动力因子、滩面潜水位和碎波带波浪、潮位及滩面地形引起的滩面陡坎处破波点位置变动等因素的耦合作用，对滩面向海发育和滩面地形变化有重要影响。 相似文献
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Open coast storm surge water levels consist of a wind shear forcing component generally referred to as wind setup; a wave setup component caused by wind-induced waves transferring momentum to the water column; an atmospheric pressure head component due to the atmospheric pressure deficit over the spatial extent of the storm system; a Coriolis-forced component due to effects of the rotation of the earth acting on the wind-driven alongshore current at the coast; and, if astronomical tides are present, an astronomical tide component. Astronomical tide is considered to be predictable and, therefore, not a meteorological driven component of storm surge although there may be interaction between the tide and meteorological driven water levels. Typically the most important component of storm surge on the US East Coast and Gulf of Mexico shorelines is the wind setup component. The importance of inland flooding due to the wind setup component of storm surge is considered herein with special reference to the effect of subaerial slope on inland flooding where three different linear slopes are considered and storm surge is calculated for the region above still water level, using an analytic solution. The present study findings show that the inland storm surge from the wind setup component can be of considerable importance and lead to significantly higher storm surges than found for storm surge at the still water level intersection of the beach/land. It is shown that mild slopes can lead to very high water levels at the land–water interface (i.e. above the still water level intersection of the beach). 相似文献
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The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves. 相似文献
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渤海海峡断面温度结构及流量的季节变化 总被引：3，自引：2，他引：3
作者采用 POM模式 ,利用从卫星遥感资料反演的风和海表温度 (SST)数据并考虑 M2分潮作用 ,对渤海海域的温度、流场的三维结构进行数值计算。根据数值模式的计算结果 ,重点分析渤海海峡温度结构和水交换的季节变化特征。结果表明风应力和 SST的季节性变化导致渤海海峡的水交换流型、温度结构和流量有明显的季节性变化。 相似文献
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通过无人机和滩面高程监测等技术手段，获取了1909号台风“利奇马”过境山东省海阳市前后的海滩监测数据，分析海滩在台风前后的整体形态和剖面冲淤变化，探讨了海滩演化对台风的响应规律。结果表明，台风过境后海滩整体形态以风成沙丘面积略有扩大、高?中潮带滩面发生下蚀和微地貌消失等现象为主。台风对海滩的影响以侵蚀为主，造成了约2.43×104 m3的侵蚀量，且主要发生在高潮带滩面；风成沙丘以弱淤积为主，但部分岸段发生严重冲蚀；后滨则受大风和冲越流携沙堆积后以弱淤积为主；中低潮带冲淤主要受其滩面坡度控制，表现为高坡度滩面冲蚀，低坡度滩面弱淤积，且台风过后形成多个小型水下沙坝。整体而言，台风“利奇马”对山东海阳海滩演化造成一定的影响，沉积物收支愈发亏损，进一步加重了海阳海滩的侵蚀程度。 相似文献
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Subinertial and seasonal variations in the Soya Warm Current revealed by HF ocean radars,coastal tide gauges,and bottom-mounted ADCP 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
Naoto Ebuchi Yasushi Fukamachi Kay I. Ohshima Masaaki Wakatsuchi 《Journal of Oceanography》2009,65(1):31-43
Subinertial and seasonal variations in the Soya Warm Current (SWC) are investigated using data obtained by high frequency
(HF) ocean radars, coastal tide gauges, and a bottom-mounted acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP). The HF radars clearly
captured the seasonal variations in the surface current fields of the SWC. Almost the same seasonal cycle was repeated in
the period from August 2003 to March 2007, although interannual variations were also discernible. In addition to the annual
and interannual variations, the SWC exhibited subinertial variations with a period of 5–20 days. The surface transport by
the SWC was significantly correlated with the sea level difference between the Sea of Japan and Sea of Okhotsk for both the
seasonal and subinertial variations, indicating that the SWC is driven by the sea level difference between the two seas. The
generation mechanism of the subinertial variation is discussed using wind data from the European Centre for Medium-range Weather
Forecasts (ECMWF) analyses. The subinertial variations in the SWC were significantly correlated with the meridional wind stress
component over the region. The subinertial variations in the sea level difference and surface current delay from the meridional
wind stress variations by one or two days. Sea level difference through the strait caused by wind-generated coastally trapped
waves (CTWs) along the east coast of Sakhalin and west coast of Hokkaido is considered to be a possible mechanism causing
the subinertial variations in the SWC. 相似文献
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华南水东湾波控、中等潮差岬湾海滩地形动力分类 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海滩地形动力分类在国外的海岸地貌研究中已经被广泛接受。本文使用了华南粤西水东湾切线带、过渡带和遮蔽带海滩连续16个月32次大潮期间同步获取的波浪、潮汐、泥沙和海滩地形数据,分别按照无量纲沉降参数、相对潮差参数和无量纲海湾尺度参数对这一岬湾海滩不同岸段的海滩类型进行了研究,研究发现：（1）水东湾切线带海滩的主要状态为有裂流的低潮台地状态和沙坝型海滩状态,过渡带海滩主要状态是低潮沙坝/裂流海滩和沙坝消散型状态,遮蔽带海滩主要状态是有或无沙坝的消散型状态;（2）海湾不同岸段海滩状态的顺序变化与差异体现了岬湾海滩状态的时空变化性,与现场观测的海滩地形的变化基本一致,说明了对波控中到强潮海滩进行研究时,需要考虑潮汐的影响。同时,本文主要给出了海滩状态研究的一个框架体系,由于海滩不同的状态伴随不同的侵蚀模式,要求我国今后需加强在这一方面研究,以进一步丰富我国海滩地形演变、海滩地形动力过程和海滩防侵蚀的理论基础。 相似文献
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利用复经验正交函数(CEOF)分析方法对湛江南三岛2009年2月22日至2010年4月21日期间的实测海滩剖面数据进行了分析。结果表明该海滩的季节变化有3个主要模态:第1模态是海滩风暴剖面和涌浪剖面之间的相互转换,其贡献占总方差的71.18%。其原因是海区侵蚀性风暴大浪和建设性涌浪的交替变化。第2模态是平均高、低潮线之间的地形变化,其原因是由于潮汐变化导致入射波浪冲流活动范围变化,占总方差的14.28%。第3模态是侵蚀大浪过后的水下沙坝向岸迁移,并受潮汐影响在滩面上摆动,占总方差的6.80%。最后指出必须重视风暴对华南海滩演变季节性过程的影响。 相似文献
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根据2011年在海阳万米海滩岸段与威海国际海水浴场岸段调查获得的夏、冬两季海岸实测地形剖面与沉积物粒度数据,并收集相关水文资料,对南北两海岸地貌与沉积差异性进行分析,探讨了半岛东部南北岸典型砂质海岸动力环境的差异。研究结果表明,南部海岸宽广平缓,发育滩脊、滩肩、沙波纹等地貌,沉积物在水下岸坡上段以中粗砂、中细砂为主,水下岸坡以下段以粉砂、黏土质粉砂为主;北部海岸地形陡,发育滩肩陡坎、水下沙坝等地貌,沉积物以砾质砂为主。导致这些差异的动力为风、波浪、潮汐及沿岸流堆积。 相似文献