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1.
Based on the Stokes wave theory, the capillary-gravity wave and the interfacial internal wave in two-layer constant depth''s fluid system are investigated. The fluids are assumed to be incompressible, inviscid and irrotational. The third-order Stokes wave solutions are given by using a perturbation method. The results indicate that the third-order solutions depend on the surface tension, the density and the depth of each layer. As expected, the first-order solutions are the linear theoretical results (the small amplitude wave theoretical results). The second-order and the third-order solutions describe the nonlinear modification and the nonlinear interactions. The nonlinear impact appears not only in the n (n≥2) times'' high frequency components, but also in the low frequency components. It is also noted that the wave velocity depends on the wave number, depth, wave amplitude and surface tension. 相似文献
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Soft computing tools in the form of combination of multiple nonlinear regression and M5'' model tree were used for estimation of overtopping rate at the vertical coastal structures. For reliable and precise estimation of overtopping rate, the experimental data available in the database CLASH were used. The dimensionless overtopping rate was estimated in terms of conventional dimensionless parameters including the relative crest freeboard Rc/Hs, seabed slope tanθ, deep water wave steepness Som, surf similarity ξom and local relative water depth ht/Hs. The accuracy of the new model was compared with other existing models and also evaluated with some field measurements. The results indicated that the model presented in this paper is more accurate than other existing models. With statistical parameters, it is shown that the accuracy of predictions in the new model is better than that of other models. 相似文献
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Moussa S. ELBISY 《海洋工程》2017,31(3):341-349
This study examines wave interactions with multiple semi-immersed Jarlan-type perforated breakwaters. A numerical model based on linear wave theory and an eigenfunction expansion method has been developed to study the hydrodynamic characteristics of breakwaters. The numerical results show a good agreement with previous analytical results and experimental data for limiting cases of double partially immersed impermeable walls and double and triple Jarlan-type breakwaters. The wave transmission coefficient CT; reflection coefficient CR, and energy dissipation coefficient CE coefficients and the horizontal wave force exerted on the front and rear walls are examined. The results show that CR reaches the maximum value when B/L = 0.46n while it is smallest when B/L=0.46n+0.24 (n=0, 1, 2,...). An economical triple semi-immersed Jarlan-type perforated breakwater can be designed with B/L = 0.25 and CR and CT ranging from 0.25 to 0.32 by choosing a relative draft d/h of 0.35 and a permeability parameter of the perforated front walls being 0.5 for an incident wave number kh nearly equal to 2.0. The triple semi-immersed Jarlan-type perforated breakwaters with significantly reduced CR, will enhance the structure’s wave absorption ability, and lead to smaller wave forces compared with the double one. The proposed model may be used to predict the response of a structure in the preliminary design stage for practical engineering. 相似文献
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WANG Deng-ting JU Lie-hong ZHU Jia-ling WANG Zhen SUN Tian-ting CHEN Wei-qiu 《海洋工程》2017,31(3):350-356
In this paper, domestic and abroad research progresses and related calculation formulae of the mean overtopping discharge are summarized. Through integral physical model experiments, the relation between the wave direction and the overtopping discharge on the top of the sloping dike is focused on and put into analysis and discussion; and a modified formula for mean overtopping discharges under oblique irregular waves is proposed. The study shows that the mean overtopping discharge generally goes down as the relative wave obliquity β increases for a fixed measurement point and the mean overtopping discharge generally increases as the wave steepness H/L decreases (the cycle increases) for a fixed relative wave obliquity. 相似文献
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Asymptotic Calculation of the Wave Trough Exceedance Probabilities in A Nonlinear Sea 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
WANG Ying-guang 《海洋工程》2018,32(2):189-195
This paper concerns the calculation of the wave trough exceedance probabilities in a nonlinear sea. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic method. This is a new approach for the calculation of the wave trough exceedance probabilities, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The proposed asymptotic method has been applied to calculate the wave trough depth exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the coast of Yura in the Japan Sea. It is demonstrated that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than the theoretical Rayleigh wave trough depth distribution model. The calculated results by using the proposed new method have been further compared with those obtained by using the Arhan and Plaisted nonlinear distribution model and the Toffoli et al.’s wave trough depth distribution model, and its accuracy has been once again substantiated. The research findings obtained from this study demonstrate that the proposed asymptotic method can be readily utilized in the process of designing various kinds of ocean engineering structures. 相似文献
6.
A maximum-entropy compound distribution model for extreme wave heights of typhoon-affected sea areas
A new compound distribution model for extreme wave heights of typhoon-affected sea areas is proposed on the basis of the maximum-entropy principle.The new model is formed by nesting a discrete distribution in a continuous one,having eight parameters which can be determined in terms of observed data of typhoon occurrence-frequency and extreme wave heights by numerically solving two sets of equations derived in this paper.The model is examined by using it to predict the N-year return-period wave height at two hydrology stations in the Yellow Sea,and the predicted results are compared with those predicted by use of some other compound distribution models.Examinations and comparisons show that the model has some advantages for predicting the N-year return-period wave height in typhoon-affected sea areas. 相似文献
7.
measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likelihood method The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al.(1963, Ocean Wave Spectra, 111-136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole resalts. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al.(1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750-760) and Hasselmann et al.(1980, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 10, 1264-1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters sm, fo, b1 and b2, determining the directional width, and ū10 (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al.(1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509-562) when applied to field waves. 相似文献
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Based mainly on TOGA COARE data, that is, the CI''D data from R/V Xiangyanghong No.5 (Pu et al.,1993),the temperature and current data from the Woods Hole mooring and other deep current data, the layered numerical profiles of buoyancy frequency and mean current components are figured out.A numerical method calculating internal wave dispersion relation without background shear current, used by Fliegel and Hunkins (1975),is improved to be fit for the internal wave equation with mean currents and their second derivatives.The dispersion relations and wave functions of the long crested internal wave progressing in any direction can be calculated inveniently by using the improved method.A comparison between the calculated dispersion relation in the paper and the dispersion relation in GM spectral model of ocean internal waves (Garret and Munk, 1972) is performed.It shows that the mean currents are important to the dispersion relation of internal waves in the western equatorial Pacific Ocean and that the currents make the wave progressing co-directional with (against) the currents stretched (shrink).The influence of the mean currents on dispersion relation is much stronger than that of their second derivatives, but that on wave function is less than that of their second derivatives.The influences on wave functions result in the change of vertical wavenumber, that is, making the wave function stretch or shrink.There exists obvious turning depth but no significant critical layer absorption is found. 相似文献
9.
Choi Young-Kwang Seo Seung-Nam Choi Jin-Yong Shi Fengyan Park Kwang-Soon 《海洋学报(英文版)》2019,38(7):36-47
A wave forecasting system using FUNWAVE-TVD which is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations by Chen(2006) was developed to provide an accurate wave prediction in the Port of Busan, South Korea. This system is linked to the Korea Operational Oceanographic System(KOOS) developed by Park et al.(2015). The computational domain covers a region of 9.6 km×7.0 km with a grid size of 2 m in both directions, which is sufficient to resolve short waves and dominant sea states. The total number of grid points exceeds 16 millions,making the model computational expensive. To provide real-time forecasting, an interpolation method, which is based on pre-calculated results of FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN forecasting results at the FUNWAVE-TVD offshore boundary, was used. A total of 45 cases were pre-calculated, which took 71 days on 924 computational cores of a Linux cluster system. Wind wave generation and propagation from the deep water were computed using the SWAN in KOOS. SWAN results provided a boundary condition for the FUNWAVE-TVD forecasting system. To verify the model, wave observations were conducted at three locations inside the port in a time period of more than 7 months. A model/model comparison between FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN was also carried out. It is found that, FUNWAVE-TVD improves the forecasting results significantly compared to SWAN which underestimates wave heights in sheltered areas due to incorrect physical mechanism of wave diffraction, as well as large wave heights caused by wave reflections inside the port. 相似文献
10.
基于多星融合高度计数据的中国海波浪能资源评估 总被引：4，自引：2，他引：2
Wave energy resources are abundant in both offshore and nearshore areas of the China's seas. A reliable assessment of the wave energy resources must be performed before they can be exploited. First, for a water depth in offshore waters of China, a parameterized wave power density model that considers the effects of the water depth is introduced to improve the calculating accuracy of the wave power density. Second, wave heights and wind speeds on the surface of the China's seas are retrieved from an AVISO multi-satellite altimeter data set for the period from 2009 to 2013. Three mean wave period inversion models are developed and used to calculate the wave energy period. Third, a practical application value for developing the wave energy is analyzed based on buoy data. Finally, the wave power density is then calculated using the wave field data. Using the distribution of wave power density, the energy level frequency, the time variability indexes, the total wave energy and the distribution of total wave energy density according to a wave state, the offshore wave energy in the China's seas is assessed. The results show that the areas of abundant and stable wave energy are primarily located in the north-central part of the South China Sea, the Luzon Strait, southeast of Taiwan in the China's seas; the wave power density values in these areas are approximately 14.0–18.5 k W/m. The wave energy in the China's seas presents obvious seasonal variations and optimal seasons for a wave energy utilization are in winter and autumn. Except for very coastal waters, in other sea areas in the China's seas, the energy is primarily from the wave state with 0.5 m≤H s≤4 m, 4 s≤T e≤10 s where H s is a significant wave height and T e is an energy period; within this wave state, the wave energy accounts for 80% above of the total wave energy. This characteristic is advantageous to designing wave energy convertors(WECs). The practical application value of the wave energy is higher which can be as an effective supplement for an energy consumption in some areas. The above results are consistent with the wave model which indicates fully that this new microwave remote sensing method altimeter is effective and feasible for the wave energy assessment. 相似文献
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Resonance Induced by Edge Waves in Hua-Lien Harbor 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This article first reviews previous numerical studies on the resonance problem of Hua-Lien Harbor. All the research leads to the conclusion that resonance can be stimulated by 2-D infragravity waves. However, a literature survey suggests that outside the harbor these plane infragravity waves are too small to excite violent water-body movement inside. On the other hand, 3-D infragravity waves trapped along the coastline, also known as edge waves, are more likely to exist outside the harbor and their effect needs to be thoroughly discussed. Based on previous measurements, the response of Hua-Lien Harbor is best simulated using edge waves of 160 and 140 second periods and their resonance mechanisms are analyzed. The former case has a longitudinal resonant mode and hence the amplitude in the inner harbor is large. The latter case has a transverse mode in the outer basin and hence only berths in the outer basin are influenced. These features are both consistent with field measurement. Therefore, it is very likely that edge waves are responsible for the resonance of Hua-Lien Harbor. Finally, based on observation after the construction of the present offshore breakwaters, a theory is proposed to explain the trapping of incident edge waves, and a measure to further reduce the resonance is discussed. 相似文献
13.
波浪方向对两矩形驳船间窄缝内流体共振影响的数值研究 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
应用二阶非线性三维势流时域模型模拟两个并靠矩形驳船间的窄缝内流体共振现象。模型中，速度势分解为入射势和未知的散射势，其中散射势通过求解边界积分方程计算得到。采用四阶预报校正的方法对自由水面边界条件在时间上进行数值积分。本文研究了波浪方向对窄缝内一阶、二阶波高的影响。计算结果表明，入射波浪的角度不会影响窄缝内流体的共振频率，同时窄缝内流体发生共振时，最大的共振波高总是发生在窄缝中点处。然而，共振时对应的最大波高随着入射角度的变化而变化。同时，入射波浪的频率与窄缝内流体共振频率的相对大小导致窄缝内最大波高位置向上游或者下游移动。 相似文献
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Wave energy has drawn much attention as an achievable way to exploit the renewable energy. At present, in order to enhance the wave energy extraction, most efforts have been concentrated on optimizing the wave energy convertor and the power take-off system mechanically and electrically. However, focusing the wave power in specific wave field could also be an alternative to improve the wave energy extraction. In this experimental study, the Bragg resonance effect is applied to focus the wave energy. Because the Bragg resonance effect of the rippled bottom largely amplifies the wave reflection, leading to a significant increase of wave focusing. Achieved with an energy conversion system consisting of a point absorber and a permanent magnet single phase linear motor, the wave energy extracted in the wave flume with and without Bragg resonance effect was measured and compared quantitatively in experiment. It shows that energy extraction by a point absorber from a standing wave field resulted from Bragg resonance effect can be remarkably increased compared with that from a propagating wave field (without Bragg resonance effect). 相似文献
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New version of SWAN model includes the wave diffraction effect which is the main improvement compared with the previous versions.Experimental data collected in the wave basin of the University of Delaware were used to test its performance.Wave heights were compared in the four cases(with different wave energies and directional spreading spectra).The results agreed well with the measurements,especially for the broad directional spectra cases.The effect of wave diffraction was analyzed by switching on/off the corresponding term.By introducing the diffraction term,the distributions of wave height and wave direction were smoothed,especially obvious for the narrow spectrum cases.Compared with the calculations without diffraction,the model with diffraction effect gave better results. 相似文献
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由运动方程和涡度方程所导得的两个首次积分估计给出了海波破碎的发生条件和破碎波的波面限制。由这两个条件所构造的新的破碎波统计模式，可导出海波的破碎面积率、破碎体积率和破碎能量损耗率的解析表达式，加之一个简单的白冠物理模型又导出了一个新的白冠覆盖率的解析表达式。 相似文献
20.
海岸湿地是近海地区重要的生态系统,由于潮流、波浪尤其是非连续水流与植被的相互作用,导致该海域的水动力环境复杂多变。本文发展了一个深度平均二维波流耦合数学模型,模拟湿地海域波浪和波生沿岸流的运动特性。水动力模型中植物拖曳力作为源项放入动量方程中,在波浪作用量平衡方程增加波能耗散项用于解释水生植物对波浪产生的阻力作用。在动态耦合模型中,波浪模型为潮流模型提供波浪辐射应力、波高、波浪周期等数据信息,潮流模型为波浪模型提供计算的水位和流速,可以达到双向动态耦合。本文发展的波流耦合模型通过三个实验室试验数据加以验证,计算结果和实验数据吻合较好,在波浪、波生流和植物迭加条件下,所建模型能够有效地模拟波浪、沿岸流等不同现象。 相似文献