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1.
The foreshore of Pendine Sands forms the seaward part of an extensive, sandy coastal barrier in a shallow Carmarthen Bay, SW Wales. The sedimentological features of the macrotidal foreshore reflect a tide-induced modification of nearshore wave characteristics. As the tide ebbs, the breaker height may decrease, the surf zone widens and becomes increasingly dissipative, and swash/backwash velocities diminish. A concomitant change from plunging to spilling breakers and increasingly symmetrical swash zone flows are associated with a decreasing beach gradient. A zero net transport model demonstrates that the beach profile is self-stabilising in the short-term, and periodic levelling has shown that the beach is in long-term equilibrium with prevailing conditions, though this does not preclude a significant dynamic response to changing tides and waves. The flow regimes of wave-generated currents decline as the tide ebbs, and normal beach processes do not usually affect the lower foreshore. Accordingly, there is an overall seaward-fining of the primary framework component of the sands. In more detail, this framework component displays a slight seaward-coarsening across an upper foreshore dominated by high water swash and surf; a rapid seaward-fining across the mid-foreshore in response to the ebb-attenuating swash zone flow velocities; and a slight seaward-fining across the lower foreshore under the action of nearshore shoaling waves. Bedforms vary from a swash/backwash emplaced flat bed across the upper foreshore to the small ripples of nearshore asymmetric oscillatory flows across the lower foreshore. The surface sediment veneer is not representative of the subsurface sediments which form in response partly to fairweather conditions, partly to storms. The upper foreshore is characterised by swash/backwash emplaced plane bedding in fine sands frequently disrupted by bubble cavities. The mid-foreshore is composed of coarser-grained shelly traction clogs arranged as landward- and seaward-dipping large-scale cross bedding and/or plane bedding; these are probably storm breaker/surf deposits. The lower foreshore, though partially and sometimes totally bioturbated, shows landward-dipping small-scale cross bedding in very fine sands sorted by nearshore shoaling waves. Tide- and storm-induced modification of the nearshore flow regimes therefore produces a distinctive shore-normal array of sedimentary facies. Each facies is characterised by diagnostic textural and structural signatures. A prograding sequence of such macrotidal deposits would be similar to, but more extensive than, a comparable microtidal sequence. 相似文献
2.
This paper builds on the work of Masselink [Masselink, G., 1993. Simulating the effects of tides on beach morphodynamics. J. Coast. Res. SI 15, 180–197.] on the use of the residence times of shoaling waves, breaking waves and swash/backwash motions across a cross-shore profile to qualitatively understand temporal beach behaviour. We use a data set of in-situ measurements of wave parameters (height and period) and water depth, and time-exposure video images overlooking our single-barred intertidal measurement array at Egmond aan Zee (Netherlands) to derive boundaries between the shoaling zone, the surf zone and the swash zone. We find that the boundaries are functional dependencies of the local relative wave height on the local wave steepness. This contrasts with the use of constant relative wave heights or water levels in earlier work. We use the obtained boundaries and a standard cross-shore wave transformation model coupled to an inner surf zone bore model to show that large (> 5) relative tide ranges ( RTR, defined as the ratio tide range–wave height) indicate shoaling wave processes across almost the entire intertidal profile, with surf processes dominating on the beach face. When the RTR is between 2 and 5, surf processes dominate over the intertidal bar and the lower part of the beach face, while swash has the largest residence times on the upper beach face. Such conditions, associated with surf zone bores propagating across the bar around low tide, were observed to cause the intertidal bar to migrate onshore slowly and the upper beach face to steepen. For RTR values less than about 2, surf zone processes dominate across the intertidal bar, while the dominance of swash processes now extends across most of the beach face. The surf zone processes were now observed to lead to offshore bar migration, while the swash eroded the upper beach face. 相似文献
3.
A four-year investigation of surf zone sedimentation at Presque Isle, Pennsylvania, was undertaken in preparation for the design of a segmented breakwater system. Sediment transport calculations were based on hind-cast annual wave power statistics and “calibrated” by known accretion rates at the downdrift spit terminus. 30,000 m 3 of sediment reaches the peninsula annually from updrift beaches. The transport volume increases downdrift due to shoreface erosion and retreat of the peninsular neck. At the most exposed point on Presque Isle (the lighthouse) the annual transport is 209,000 m 3. East of the lighthouse is a zone of net shoreface accretion as the longshore transport rate progressively decreases. The downdrift variation in sediment supply, combined with increasing refraction and attenuation of the dominant westerly storm waves produce a systematic change in prevailing surf zone morphology. Storms produce a major longshore bar and trough along the exposed peninsular neck. The wave energy during non-storm periods is too low to significantly alter the bar which consequently becomes a permanent feature. The broad shoreface and reduced wave energy level east of the lighthouse produce a morphology characterized by large crescentic outer bars, transverse bars, and megacusps along the beach. At the sheltered and rapidly prograding eastern spit terminus the prevalent beach morphology is that of a ridge and runnel system in front of a megacuspate shore. The morphodynamic surf zone model developed for oceanic beaches in Australia is used as a basis for interpretation of shoreface morphologic variability at Presque Isle. In spite of interference by major shoreline stabilization structures, and differences between oceanic and lake wave spectra, the nearshore bar field at Presque Isle does closely correspond to the Australian model. 相似文献
5.
An open ocean shoreface typical of long, wave-dominated sandy coasts has been examined through a combination of extensive field measurements of wave and current patterns with computations of marine bedload transport and sedimentation. Sand transport on the upper shoreface is dominantly controlled by waves with only secondary transport by currents. Sand on the middle and lower shoreface, as well as the inner continental shelf is entrained by storm waves and transported by a complex pattern of bottom boundary layer currents. Storm events have been studied and modeled for the shoreface off Tiana Beach, Long Island. The dominant effect of coastal frontal storms is to cause significant shore-parallel bedload transport with important shore-normal secondary components. These storms tend to result in net offshore transport of sand removed from the beach and surf zone systems. The bedload transport during a storm is convergent on the shoreface leading to accretion. Most accretion occurs on the upper shoreface with lesser deposits covering the middle and lower shoreface as well as the inner continental shelf. Longer-term equilibrium can be maintained by slow return of sand up the shoreface during non-storm conditions. Annual and geologic time-scale budgets of shoreface sand transport and sedimentation yield equilibrium, net accretion or net deposition. The annual balance results from an integration of the event-scale bedload transport patterns and morphologic responses. These processes and responses have feedback mechanisms which stabilize the system over longer, but not geologic, time scales. Geologic time scale balances are controlled by relative sea level changes and relative availability of sediment supply with the event-scale shoreface and transporting processes providing the mechanism to produce the changes in long-term morphology and sedimentation patterns. In the area of study, the long-term pattern is one of net shoreface erosion, and the permanent loss of sand to the shelf floor. 相似文献
6.
This paper describes the results of investigations of the consequences of the storms on the Pacific coast of Shikotan Island
that occurred on October 7–10, 2006 and January 6–8, 2007. These storms and their impact on the coastal zone can be considered
as extreme events for the last 40–50 years. The heights and flooding area of the storm surges within bay coasts of different
types were measured. The coastal relief’s changes are described. During the storms, a cover of deposits was formed having
a size of up to 30 m outside the beach zone and up to 52 m in the near-mouth zones. The grain-size composition of the storm
deposits is analyzed and their difference from other coastal facies, including tsunami sands, are established. 相似文献
7.
Storms are one of the most important controls on the cycle of erosion and accretion on beaches. Current meters placed in shoreface locations of Saco Bay and Wells Embayment, ME, recorded bottom currents during the winter months of 2000 and 2001, while teams of volunteers profiled the topography of nearby beaches. Coupling offshore meteorological and beach profile data made it possible to determine the response of nine beaches in southern Maine to various oceanographic and meteorological conditions. The beaches selected for profiling ranged from pristine to completely developed and permitted further examination of the role of seawalls on the response of beaches to storms. Current meters documented three unique types of storms: frontal passages, southwest storms, and northeast storms. In general, the current meter results indicate that frontal passages and southwest storms were responsible for bringing sediment towards the shore, while northeast storms resulted in a net movement of sediment away from the beach. During the 1999–2000 winter, there were a greater percentage of frontal passages and southwest storms, while during the 2000–2001 winter, there were more northeast storms. The sediment that was transported landward during the 1999–2000 winter was reworked into the berm along moderately and highly developed beaches during the next summer. A northeast storm on March 5–6, 2001, resulted in currents in excess of 1 m s−1 and wave heights that reached six meters. The storm persisted over 10 high tides and caused coastal flooding and property damage. Topographic profiles made before and after the storm demonstrate that developed beaches experienced a loss of sediment volume during the storm, while sediment was redistributed along the profile on moderately developed and undeveloped beaches. Two months after the storm, the profiles along the developed beaches had not reached their pre-storm elevation. In comparison, the moderately developed and undeveloped beaches reached and exceeded their pre-storm elevation and began to show berm buildup characteristic of the summer months. 相似文献
8.
A weakly non-linear Boussinesq model with a slot-type shoreline boundary is used to simulate swash oscillations on beaches. Numerical simulations of swash were compared with laboratory measurements and in general good agreement found (less than 15% root-mean-square error of surface elevation except in regular waves). A series of numerical experiments on shoreline movement were then performed for a range of beach slopes and incident wave conditions. The resulting swash characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and spectral properties. On steep slopes, both individual bores and infragravity waves are equally significant in driving the swash while infragravity waves alone drive them on mild slopes. Swash excursions on any given slope are found to be highest when individual bores from a partially saturated surf zone ride on top of low-frequency waves. This is confirmed by the relationship found between swash excursion and wave groupiness in the surf zone. Swash excursions increase with increasing incident wave energy, even in fully saturated surf zones. However, a poor correlation is found between swash excursion and the surf similarity parameter due to the involvement of infragravity wave energy in the swash. 相似文献
9.
Spatial variations in sediment load in the swash uprush and textural properties of sediment in transport were evaluated to investigate the mechanisms responsible for sediment transport during wave uprush. Four streamer traps were deployed at 2.0-m intervals across the swash zone of a sheltered, microtidal sandy beach at Port Beach, Western Australia, over a 4-day period. During these trapping experiments, offshore significant wave heights were 0.3–0.5 m and wave periods were about 10 s. The average width of the uprush zone was 6.9 m and the average uprush duration was 5.9 s. Cross-shore distributions of sediment load for 70 uprush events reveal a maximum in sediment load landward of the base of the swash (at about 20% of swash width) during single events and a maximum closer to mid-swash (at about 40% of swash width) during multiple events characterized by swash interactions. Settling velocity distributions of trap samples during individual uprush events are similar to distributions found on the beach surface, with the lowest settling velocities (finest sediments) near the base of the swash zone and maximum settling velocities (coarsest sediments) around the mid-swash position. It was found that sediment transport during wave uprush occurs through two distinct mechanisms: (1) sediment entrainment during bore collapse seaward of the base of the swash zone and subsequent advection of this bore-entrained sediment up the beach by wave uprush; and (2) in situ sediment entrainment and transport induced by local shear stresses during wave uprush. Both mechanisms are considered important, but the first mechanism is considered most significant during the early stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly in suspension, while the second mechanism is likely to dominate the mid- to later stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly by sheet flow. The relative importance of the two mechanisms will vary between different beaches with the morphodynamic state of the beach (reflective versus dissipative) expected to play a major role. 相似文献
10.
This is the second of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In the first paper the general model was described and it was applied to study cross-shore motion of regular waves in the surf zone. In this paper, part II, we consider the cross-shore motion of wave groups and irregular waves with emphasis on shoaling, breaking and runup as well as the generation of surf beats. These phenomena are investigated numerically by using a time-domain Boussinesq type model, which resolves the primary wave motion as well as the long waves. As compared with the classical Boussinesq equations, the equations adopted here allow for improved linear dispersion characteristics and wave breaking is modelled by using a roller concept for spilling breakers. The swash zone is included by incorporating a moving shoreline boundary condition and radiation of short and long period waves from the offshore boundary is allowed by the use of absorbing sponge layers. Mutual interaction between short waves and long waves is inherent in the model. This allows, for example, for a general exchange of energy between triads rather than a simple one-way forcing of bound waves and for a substantial modification of bore celerities in the swash zone due to the presence of long waves. The model study is based mainly on incident bichromatic wave groups considering a range of mean frequencies, group frequencies, modulation rates, sea bed slopes and surf similarity parameters. Additionally, two cases of incident irregular waves are studied. The model results presented include transformation of surface elevations during shoaling, breaking and runup and the resulting shoreline oscillations. The low frequency motion induced by the primary-wave groups is determined at the shoreline and outside the surf zone by low-pass filtering and subsequent division into incident bound and free components and reflected free components. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature and the agreement is generally found to be very good. Finally the paper includes special details from the breaker model: time and space trajectories of surface rollers revealing the breakpoint oscillation and the speed of bores; envelopes of low-pass filtered radiation stress and surface elevation; sensitivity of surf beat to group frequency, modulation rate and bottom slope is investigated. Part III of this work (Sørensen et al., 1998) presents nearshore circulations induced by the breaking of unidirectional and multi-directional waves. 相似文献
11.
New laboratory and field data are presented on fluid advection into the swash zone. The data illustrate the region of the inner surf zone from which sediment can be directly advected into the swash zone during a single uprush, which is termed the advection length. Experiments were conducted by particle tracking in a Lagrangian reference frame, and were performed for monochromatic breaking waves, solitary bores, non-breaking solitary waves and field conditions. The advection length is normalised by the run-up length to give an advection ratio, A, and different advection ratios are identified on the basis of the experimental data. The data show that fluid enters the swash zone from a region of the inner surf zone that can extend a distance seaward of the bore collapse location that is approximately equal to half of the run-up length. This region is about eight times wider than the region predicted by the classical swash solution of Shen and Meyer [Shen, M.C., Meyer, R.E., 1963. Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Runup. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 16, 113–125], as illustrated by Pritchard and Hogg [Pritchard, D., Hogg, A.J., 2005. On the transport of suspended sediment by a swash event on a plane beach. Coastal Engineering 52, 1–23]. Measured advection ratios for periodic waves show no significant trend with Iribarren number, consistent with self-similarity in typical swash flows. The data are compared to recent characteristic solutions of the non-linear shallow water wave (NLSW) equations and both finite difference and finite volume solutions of the NLSW equations. 相似文献
12.
The Galicia-Minho Shelf features two large mud patches, the Douro and the Galicia Mud patches. These are recent sediment bodies that have accumulated under a combination of conditions including: (1) abundant supplies of sediment; (2) morphological barriers that act as sediment traps; and (3) hydrographic conditions that favour the accumulation of fine sediment in these sinks. This paper describes the mechanisms controlling the deposition of the fine-grained sediment depositions and the processes that result in resuspension processes on the Galicia-Minho Shelf.Fine-grained sediments are provided from discharges from the river basins on the southern sector of the shelf, mainly the Douro and Minho rivers. Sediments are exported from river estuaries onto the shelf during episodic flood events. In contrast, most of the sediments originating from the Galician hinterland fail to contribute significantly to sedimentation on the shelf, because they are retained in the Galician Rías, which function as sediment traps.Sediments deposited on the shelf are frequently remobilized, particularly during southwesterly storms that coincide with downwelling conditions. Once in suspension the fine-grained sediments are transported northwards by the poleward flowing bottom currents and are eventually deposited on the Douro and Galicia Mud patches after a series of resuspension events. The locations of the two mud patches are strongly influenced by the shelf morphology.Fines already deposited on the mud patches are occasionally reintroduced into the system by large storm events. Some material from the Douro Mud patch and adjacent areas is re-deposited in the Galicia Mud patch. It is probable that sediments re-suspended from the Galicia Mud patch are carried off the shelf when storm events coincide with downwelling conditions. 相似文献
13.
Coast-hugging surface flood plumes occur on the inner shelf of northern California during the winter season, generating dense, near-bottom suspensions which may attain fluid mud concentrations as particles settle. The period of storm-heightened waves may continue into the flood period, leading to gravity-driven seaward displacement of the bottom suspension; or the wave regime may ameliorate, leaving the suspension to consolidate as a short-lived, inner-shelf flood bed. Such beds tend to be resuspended within days or weeks by subsequent storm events that may recreate the original high concentrations. The sediment is thus dispersed seaward by gravity flows, to be deposited as a muddy flood bed on the central shelf. The locus of deposition of these “high-concentration regimes” is a function of the relative intensities of river discharge and storm wave height. Greater discharge piles thicker storm beds nearer shore, while intense wave regimes allow deposition of the fluid mud further seaward. During events with high values of both parameters, large amount of fluid mud may bypass over the shelf edge. In contrast, “low-concentration regimes” occur during storm periods when there has been no recent flood deposition on the inner shelf. The shelf floor is better consolidated than in the previous case, and the resulting suspended sediment concentrations are lower. As a consequence, low-concentration regimes are winnowing and bypassing regimes, and the beds deposited are thinner and sandier. Algorithms describing deposition by high and low-concentration regimes have been embedded in a probabilistic model. A simulation of a 400-year sequence of beds deposited by winter storms and floods suggests that on the Eel shelf, the Holocene transgressive systems tract consists of back-stepping, seaward-fining event beds, whose timelines (bedding planes) dip more gently than do their gradational facies boundaries. At these longer time scales, flood beds dominate over storm beds. 相似文献
14.
A new nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and breaching, is validated with a series of analytical, laboratory and field test cases. Innovations include a non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading to account for wave-group generated surf and swash motions and an avalanching mechanism providing a smooth and robust solution for slumping of sand during dune erosion. The model performs well in different situations including dune erosion, overwash and breaching with specific emphasis on swash dynamics, avalanching and 2DH effects; these situations are all modelled using a standard set of parameter settings. The results show the importance of infragravity waves in extending the reach of the resolved processes to the dune front. The simple approach to account for slumping of the dune face by avalanching makes the model easily applicable in two dimensions and applying the same settings good results are obtained both for dune erosion and breaching. 相似文献
15.
The sedimentary record of 130 km of microtidal (0.9 m tidal range) high wave energy (1.5 m average wave height) barrier island shoreline of the Cape Lookout cuspate foreland has been evaluated through examination of 3136 m of subsurface samples from closely spaced drill holes. Holocene sedimentation and coastal evolution has been a function of five major depositional processes: (1) eustatic sea-level rise and barrier-shoreline transgression; (2) lateral tidal inlet migration and reworking of barrier island deposits; (3) shoreface sedimentation and local barrier progradation; (4) storm washover deposition with infilling of shallow lagoons; and (5) flood-tidal delta sedimentation in back-barrier environments. Twenty-five radiocarbon dates of subsurface peat and shell material from the Cape Lookout area are the basis for a late Holocene sea-level curve. From 9000 to 4000 B.P. eustatic sea level rose rapidly, resulting in landward migration of both barrier limbs of the cuspate foreland. A decline in the rate of sea-level rise since 4000 B.P. resulted in relative shoreline stabilization and deposition of contrasting coastal sedimentary sequences. The higher energy, storm-dominated northeast barrier limb (Core and Portsmouth Banks) has migrated landward producing a transgressive sequence of coarse-grained, horizontally bedded washover sands overlying burrowed to laminated back-barrier and lagoonal silty sands. Locally, ephemeral tidal inlets have reworked the transgressive barrier sequence depositing fining-upward spit platform and channel-fill sequences of cross-bedded, pebble gravel to fine sand and shell. Shoreface sedimentation along a portion of the lower energy, northwest barrier limb (Bogue Banks) has resulted in shoreline progradation and deposition of a coarsening-up sequence of burrowed to cross-bedded and laminated, fine-grained shoreface and foreshore sands. In contrast, the adjacent barrier island (Shackleford Banks) consists almost totally of inlet-fill sediments deposited by lateral tidal inlet migration. Holocene sediments in the shallow lagoons behind the barriers are 5–8 m thick fining-up sequences of interbedded burrowed, rooted and laminated flood-tidal delta, salt marsh, and washover sands, silts and clays. While barrier island sequences are generally 10 m in thickness, inlet-fill sequences may be as much as 25 m thick and comprise an average of 35% of the Holocene sedimentary deposits. Tidal inlet-fill, back-barrier (including flood-tidal delta) and shoreface deposits are the most highly preservable facies in the wave-dominated barrier-shoreline setting. In the Cape Lookout cuspate foreland, these three facies account for over 80% of the sedimentary deposits preserved beneath the barriers. Foreshore, spit platform and overwash facies account for the remaining 20%. 相似文献
16.
Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash zones on various beach slopes are discussed using numerical simulations. Simulated surface elevations of both primary waves and low-frequency waves across the surf zone were first compared with experimental data and good agreement found. Low-frequency wave characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and their relationship to the primary wave field on a series of sea bottom slopes. Unlike primary waves, low-frequency wave energy increases towards the shoreline. Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash are a function of incident waves and the sea bottom slope and hence the saturation level of the surf zone. Wave energy on a gently sloping beach is dominated by low-frequency waves while primary waves play a significant role on a steep beach. Low-frequency wave radiation from the surf zone on a given beach depends on primary wave frequency and beach slope. However, a very poor correlation was found between surf similarity parameter and low-frequency wave radiation. 相似文献
17.
On average, five to six storms occur in the Qiongzhou Strait every year, causing significant damage to coastal geomorphology and several property losses. Tropical Storm Bebinca is the most unusual and complex storm event that has occurred in this region over the last 10 years. To detect the high-frequency beachface responses to the storm, a pressure sensor was deployed in the surf zone to record the free sea surface height, and the heights of grid pile points on the beachface were measured manua... 相似文献
18.
The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves. 相似文献
19.
The main purpose of the study is an analysis of the wave climate of Novorossiysk Bay (Black Sea) for 1979–2019. The analysis is based on mathematical modeling results obtained with the modern DHI MIKE 21 SW spectral wave model. The wave model was verified using numerous instrumental data of the wind-wave parameters in the Black Sea and Sea of Azov. As follows from the research, the average power of storm waves in Novorossiysk Bay area is about 8 kW/m. The maximum power ranges from 50 to 100 kW/m but can reach 200 kW/m or more. The total duration of storm waves for one year is 40–60 days. The maximum duration of one storm can be up to three days but does not exceed two days on average. The mean storm duration is usually 10–11 h. The largest number of storms (above 130) was recorded in 2004; on average, there are about 100 storms annually. In recent decades, in the area of Novorossiysk Bay, the maximum wind-wave heights and the total number of storms has increased with statistical control. It is also highly probable that the average annual power of combined waves and maximum storm duration have increased; i.e., the time of continuous wave impact has increased. 相似文献
20.
The accuracy of nearshore infragravity wave height model predictions has been investigated using a combination of the spectral short wave evolution model SWAN and a linear 1D SurfBeat model (IDSB). Data recorded by a wave rider located approximately 3.5 km from the coast at 18 m water depth have been used to construct the short wave frequency-directional spectra that are subsequently translated to approximately 8 m water depth with the third generation short wave model SWAN. Next the SWAN-computed frequency-directional spectra are used as input for IDSB to compute the infragravity response in the 0.01 Hz–0.05 Hz frequency range, generated by the transformation of the grouped short waves through the surf zone including bound long waves, leaky waves and edge waves at this depth. Comparison of the computed and measured infragravity waves in 8 m water depth shows an average skill of approximately 80%. Using data from a directional buoy located approximately 70 km offshore as input for the SWAN model results in an average infragravity prediction skill of 47%. This difference in skill is in a large part related to the under prediction of the short wave directional spreading by SWAN. Accounting for the spreading mismatch increases the skill to 70%. Directional analyses of the infragravity waves shows that outgoing infragravity wave heights at 8 m depth are generally over predicted during storm conditions suggesting that dissipation mechanisms in addition to bottom friction such as non-linear energy transfer and long wave breaking may be important. Provided that the infragravity wave reflection at the beach is close to unity and tidal water level modulations are modest, a relatively small computational effort allows for the generation of long-term infragravity data sets at intermediate water depths. These data can subsequently be analyzed to establish infragravity wave height design criteria for engineering facilities exposed to the open ocean, such as nearshore tanker offloading terminals at coastal locations. 相似文献
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