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1.
李庆昕  宁德志  滕斌 《海洋学报》2017,39(1):96-103
基于势流理论采用时域高阶边界元方法建立了模拟非线性波浪与淹没水平双、三圆柱作用的数值水槽模型,其中采用混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法更新自由水面,四阶Runga-Kutta方法进行时间步进。利用两点法分离得到潜体下游高阶自由波,进而研究潜体间距、布置形式等对高倍频自由波的影响。同时在物理水槽内开展多潜体高阶谐波物理模型试验,并将试验结果与数值结果进行对比,吻合较好。研究发现:淹没双圆柱下游高阶谐波幅值随潜体间距呈现周期性振荡变化,其振荡的重现距离约为波长一半。而淹没三圆柱下游的高阶谐波随第一个间距呈周期性振荡变化,随第二个间距的增大而减小。  相似文献   

2.
The decomposition of a monochromatic wave over a submerged plate is investigated experimentally in a wave flume. Bound and free higher harmonic modes propagating upstream and downstream the structure are discriminated by means of moving resistive probes. The first-order analysis shows a resonant behaviour linked to the ratio of the plate's width and the fundamental mode wavelength over the plate. The second-order analysis shows an energy transfer from the fundamental mode towards free harmonics propagating downstream the structure. This transfer is linked to the ratio of the width of the plate and the bound harmonic wavelength over the plate. We also performed experiments with a submerged step to compare the efficiency of both structures. The submerged plate is shown to be a more efficient breakwater than the step, at the first as well as the second-order.  相似文献   

3.
潜堤后高阶自由谐波的研究   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0  
基于高阶边界元方法的完全非线性数值水槽模型模拟潜堤地形上波浪的传播变形,通过与实验值进行比较,考察数学模型的正确性.采用两点法分离得到堤后高倍频自由波来研究入射波参数、水深对堤后高倍频自由波的影响.研究发现:基频波、二阶和三阶自由波幅值分别与入射波波幅成线性、二次和三次函数关系,基频波幅值基本不随波浪周期变化,而二阶和...  相似文献   

4.
The applicability of three different wave-propagation models in nonlinear dispersive wave fields has been investigated. The numerical models tested here are based on three different wave theories: a fully nonlinear potential theory, a Stokes second-order theory, and a Boussinesq-type theory with an improved dispersion relation. Physical experiments and computations were conducted for wave evolutions during passage over a submerged shelf under various wave conditions. As expected, the fully nonlinear solutions agree better with the measurements than do the other solutions. Although the second-order solution has sufficient accuracy for smaller-amplitude wave cases, the truncation after the third harmonics causes significant discrepancies in wave form for larger waves. In addition, the second-order model markedly overestimates the first- and second-harmonic amplitudes in transmitted waves. The Boussinesq model provides excellent predictions of wave profile over the shelf even in larger wave cases. However, this model also overestimates the magnitudes of several higher harmonics in transmitted waves. These facts may indicate that energy transfer from bound components into free waves in these higher harmonics cannot be accurately evaluated by the Boussinesq-type equations.  相似文献   

5.
Harmonic generation by waves propagating over a submerged step   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Harmonic generation by waves propagating over a two-dimensional submerged step is investigated. A nonlinear theory correct to second order is presented for steps of infinite and finite lengths subjected to single harmonic waves.The boundary value problem for the second-order scattered velocity potential is linearly decomposed into two separate boundary value problems, each having only one inhomogeneous boundary condition.Theoretical results indicate that the higher harmonics are generated in the shallow-water region over a step and then are transmitted to the deeper water as free waves.Numerical calculations compare favourably with existing experimental data.  相似文献   

6.
Linearized water wave theory is used to show that a submerged long circular cylinder suitably constrained by springs and dampers to make small harmonic oscillations, can be extremely efficient in absorbing the energy in an incident regular wave whose crests are parallel to the axis of the cylinder. Experimental results are described which confirm the theory for small amplitude waves and which suggest that the device can still be fairly efficient in waves of moderate amplitude.  相似文献   

7.
The mechanism of the resonance (Bragg) scattering of microwaves by gravity-capillary waves (GCWs) is checked experimentally. Resonant regularities of backscattered signal intensity are obtained as functions of frequency and GCW propagation direction. It is shown that the width of the resonance curves is determined by the width of the directivity pattern of the scatterometer’s antenna. The excitation of the GCW second harmonic and the spatial structure of the wave field at the GCW doubled frequency are investigated. The ratio of the amplitudes of the free wave and forced harmonic that originated during excitation of the primary wave is determined. The resonance curve is obtained for the second-order scattering of radio waves (on forced harmonics and free GCWs). The correction to the backscattering cross section is investigated in the second order of smallness relative to the Bragg term.  相似文献   

8.
珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。  相似文献   

9.
Wave-induced loads on a submerged plate, representative of submerged breakwater, coastal-bridge deck and a certain type of wave energy converter, in a uniform current are investigated in this study using fully nonlinear numerical wave tanks (NWTs) based on potential flow theory. The coupling effect of wave and current is explored, and the underlying interaction mechanisms of the hydrodynamic forces are described. The presence of a background current modifies the frequency dispersion. It produces changes of the water-surface elevation, and also has an effect on wave-induced loads. Depending on the nonlinearity, higher harmonic wave components are generated above the submerged plate. These contribute to the wave forces. It is found that the horizontal and the vertical force, hence the moment, are affected in the opposite way by the currents. The Doppler shifted effect dominates the vertical force and the moment on the plate. Whereas, the Doppler shifted effect and the generation of higher wave harmonics play opposite roles on the horizontal forces. The contribution of 2nd order harmonics is found to be up to 30% of the linear component. The current-induced drag force, represented by the advection term ρU∂φ/∂x in the pressure equation, is found to lead to a decrease in the moment for the most range of wavelengths considered, and an increase in the moment for a small range of longer waves.  相似文献   

10.
The sea surface displacements measured by a wave staff, fixed in horizontal position, and a wave rider buoy, which moves with the water particles, are compared. Second-order theory shows that, to this approximation, the second harmonic in the surface displacement is not measured by the wave rider. Here a simple approximation to maximum amplitude gravity waves is considered; then a freely floating wave rider gives an approximately sinusoidal record at a lower frequency than the wave, while a tethered wave rider gives results depending on the mooring system. The horizontal motion of a tethered buoy still affects the measurements, particularly of the second and higher harmonics.  相似文献   

11.
Measurements are presented of the water particle kinematics of focused wave groups generated in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility. Single and repeated wave groups are considered at normal and 20° incidence to a 1:20 plane beach. The single focused wave groups model extreme transient events without the complication of reflections during the data acquisition process. A symmetry-based separation of harmonics method is used to interpret the water particle kinematics at the point of focus. Although the largest component is linear, there are also considerable second order kinematics terms (both low frequency and high frequency). Away from the free surface, the 2nd order difference contribution to the kinematics is a return current opposed to the direction of wave advance. For repeated wave groups, the measured kinematics confirms the presence of a low frequency free wave, followed by higher frequency waves of the main group and trailing higher order harmonic waves. In the breaker and surf zones, there is also evidence of the saw-tooth behaviour of broken waves, followed by scatter due to breaker-induced turbulence. Pulsatile wave breaking of repeated wave groups at oblique incidence is found to drive a longshore current.  相似文献   

12.
Experiments in a wave flume have been performed to analyse the nonlinear interaction between regular gravity waves and a submerged horizontal plate used as breakwater. A new method, based on the Doppler shift generated by a moving probes, has been used to discriminate the incident fundamental mode and the reflected fundamental mode. The relationships of the reflection and transmission coefficients to the wave number at different submergence depth ratios are presented. The accurate discrimination, by this method, of the phase-locked and free modes allows the quantification of the higher harmonics generated by the breakwater and the analysis of the nonlinear interaction between the waves and the submerged plate. The transfer of energy from the fundamental mode to higher harmonics is very large in the cases of small submergence depth ratios. The vortices produced at the edges take part in the production of higher harmonics by interaction with the free surface but involve, at the same time, a dissipation process that increases the efficiency of the breakwater.  相似文献   

13.
This paper deals with the random forces produced by high ocean waves on submerged horizontal circular cylinders. Arena [Arena F, Interaction between long-crested random waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. Phys Fluids 2006;18(7):1–9 (paper 076602)] obtained the analytical solution of the random wave field for two dimensional waves by extending the classical Ogilvie solution [Ogilvie TF, First- and second-order forces on a cylinder submerged under a free surface. J Fluid Mech 1963;16:451–472; Arena F, Note on a paper by Ogilvie: The interaction between waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. J Fluid Mech 1999;394:355–356] to the case of random waves. In this paper, the wave force acting on the cylinder is investigated and the Froude Krylov force [Sarpkaya T, Isaacson M, Mechanics of wave forces on offshore structures, Van Nostrand Reinhold Co.; 1981], on the ideal water cylinder, is calculated from the random incident wave field. Both forces represent a Gaussian random process of time. The diffraction coefficient of the wave force is obtained as quotient between the standard deviations of the force on the solid cylinder and of the Froude Krylov force. It is found that the diffraction coefficient of the horizontal force Cdo is equal to the Cdv of the vertical force. Finally, it is shown that, since a very large wave force occurs on the cylinder, it may be calculated, in time domain, starting from the Froude Krylov force. It is then shown that this result is due to the fact that the frequency spectrum of the force acting on the cylinder is nearly identical to that of the Froude–Krylov force.  相似文献   

14.
This paper provides an experimental validation of the second-order coupling theory outlined by Yang et al. (Z. Yang, S. Liu, H.B. Bingham and J. Li., 2013. Second-order coupling of numerical and physical wave tanks for 2D irregular waves. Part I: Formulation, implementation and numerical properties, submitted for publication) using 2D irregular waves. This work provides a second-order dispersive correction for the physical wavemaker signal which improves the nonlinear transfer of information between the numerical and physical models compared to the first-order method of Zhang et al. (2007). The important nonlinear parameters and numerical performance were theoretically investigated in Part I. In the present Part II, careful experimental validation is carried out using a sequence of progressively more complex analytical and numerical target waves. The results demonstrate clearly that improved performance is achieved by using the second-order correction. When controlling with a second-order coupling signal, two key points are notable: (i) The higher harmonics underlying the numerical waves are accurately captured and transferred into the physical model. (ii) The second-order behavior leads to an unwanted spurious freely propagating second harmonic that is substantially reduced when compared to an identical wave paddle operating with a first-order coupling signal. Using nonlinear regular (monochromatic), bi-chromatic and irregular wave cases as well as varying coupled wave tank bathymetries, both these aspects are verified over a broad range of wave frequencies and shown to be extensively applicable to physical wave tanks.  相似文献   

15.
This paper considers higher-harmonic forces due to wave focusing on a vertical circular cylinder. A series of experiments has been conducted in a wave flume. The first six-harmonic components of the measured wave forces are analyzed using the scale-averaged wavelet spectrum. It is noted that due to the transient nature of focused (freak) waves, Fourier analysis would not provide equivalent information to that gleaned from the analyses used herein. The results for the experiments with very steep wave crests show significant amplitudes at the fourth and fifth harmonics. These harmonics exhibit amplitudes that are the same order as the second harmonic, but much larger than those of the third harmonic. The wavelet-based bicoherence is used to detect the quadratic nonlinearity of the measured forces. And the bicoherence spectra reveal the primary mathematical reason for the existence of the striking amplitudes of the fourth and fifth harmonics: the interaction between the lower-harmonic components couple more strongly with the fourth and fifth harmonics, thus the fourth and fifth harmonics glean more energy than those of the third-harmonic components. However, the physical explanation for this remains elusive.  相似文献   

16.
A long submerged horizontal circular cylinder of .90 m diameter was assembled off the beach at Reggio Calabria where the wind waves typically have significant height ranging within 0.20 and 0.40 m and dominant period within 1.8 and 2.6 s. Three ultrasonic probes recorded the waves, and two sets of pressure transducers, the first one at the cylinder and the second one in the undisturbed wave field, enabled to compare the force amplitude on the cylinder to the force amplitude on an equivalent mass of water in the undisturbed wave field (Froude-Krylov F-K force). After ten days of measurements, the experiment was repeated with a cylinder of .45 m diameter. The Keulegan-Carpenter number was within 2.5, and the wave forces proved to be inertial. The following general features emerged: (i) the force spectrum is usually very narrow even if the wave spectrum is broad; (ii) the vertical diffraction coefficient is somewhat smaller than the horizontal diffraction coefficient; (iii) the positive extremes of Fz (vertical force referred to the buoyancy force) markedly exceed the negative extremes; (iv) the pressure fluctuations induced by the highest waves at the cylinder are very similar to the measured pressure-surface displacement covariances. In each of the 580 records obtained in the course of the experiment it was found that the propagation speed reduces to about a half at the cylinder, and the amplitude of the pressure fluctuations increases of 10–15% at the upper half of the cylinder and decreases of about the same percentage at the lower half. These phenomena fully explain why the force amplitude on the cylinder is larger than the F-K force amplitude.  相似文献   

17.
Experiments were conducted in a wave flume to study the differences between harmonic evolution of monochromatic waves as they propagate over a submerged impermeable or porous step under non-breaking conditions. Results are used as a preliminary analysis to establish some engineering design criteria on harmonic generation on submerged porous structures. The root-mean-squared wave height evolution is also studied and compared to linear models as a first approximation. It is shown that porous structure increases the effective relative depth and decreases the relative wave height, resulting in a lower Ursell number and a lower chance to generate harmonics. The effective water depth over a step as defined in the paper, provides information to evaluate the potential harmonic generation.  相似文献   

18.
Using data from laboratory, field, and numerical experiments, we investigated regularities in changes in the relative limit height of breaking waves (the breaking index) from peculiarities of nonlinear wave transformations and type of wave breaking. It is shown that the value of the breaking index depends on the relative part of the wave energy in the frequency range of the second nonlinear harmonic. If this part is more than 35%, then the breaking index can be taken as a constant equal to 0.6. These waves are spilling breaking waves, asymmetric on the horizontal axis, and are almost symmetric on the vertical axis. If this part of the energy is less than 35%, then the breaking index increases with increasing energy in the frequency range of the second harmonic. These waves are plunging breaking waves, asymmetric on the vertical axis, and are almost symmetric on the horizontal axis. It is revealed that the breaking index depends on the asymmetry of waves on the vertical axis, determined by the phase shift between the first and second nonlinear harmonic (biphase). It is shown that the relation between the amplitudes of the second and first nonlinear harmonics for an Ursell number less than 1 corresponds to Stokes’ second-order wave theory. The empirical dependences of the breaking index on the parameters of nonlinear transformation of waves are proposed.  相似文献   

19.
A Navier-Stokes solver in OpenFOAM® is combined with the Volume of Fluid (VOF) surface capturing method to investigate the wave interaction with depth-varying currents in intermediate and shallow waters. A special attention is paid to the separate effect of vertical current shear on near resonant triad wave interactions. It was found that in the presence of following vertical current shear, the wave exhibits a sharper crest and flatter trough, and the opposite is true in the presence of opposing vertical current shear. Our model results indicate that the wave steepness at which the current shear starts to affect the crest elevation is greater in deeper water than in shallower water. We found that adding vertical current shear to the uniform current further enhances the relative harmonic wave energy and the extent of triad interaction in the following current while weakens them in the opposing current. As a result, following and opposing current shear may cause wave to break at a lower and higher sea state respectively. Due to the increased wave nonlinearity in the presence of a following current shear, a linear superposition of the individual wave and current velocities is no longer adequate to represent the total horizontal velocity close to the free surface.  相似文献   

20.
I~IOXdifferent tabes of submerged structures restricting wave development are extensively appliedin coastal and barber engineering. Generally speaking, the submerged structures are classified intothree types (see Fig. 1 ): a submerged horizontal plate (fixed submerged structure), a submergedbreakwater (rectangular or trapezoidal) and a step-take structure (toPOgraphy). In order to get aclear understanding of the characteristics of wave motion around submemed structures, manyFig. 1. Fol'InS…  相似文献   

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