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LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式是一种第三代海浪数值模式，通过求解波数谱平衡方程，并考虑风输入、波浪破碎耗散、底摩擦耗散、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用等源函数，模拟波数空间下的海浪方向谱，并依此获得海浪的波高、周期和平均波向。该模式的一个显著特点是采用特征线嵌入格式求解海浪的传播。在进行浅水区域的海浪模拟时，特征线嵌入格式的数值计算方案是否合理对海浪数值模拟结果产生直接的影响。为此LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式提出了一种新的特征线混合数值计算格式，并应用于浅水海浪数值模拟。结果表明，采用该计算方法，能够使数值模拟结果与实测结果很好符合。 相似文献
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将共轭变分同化方法应用于LAGFD－WAM海浪数值模式，导出了海浪谱能量平衡方程的共轭方程以及风输入、破碎、底摩擦、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用的相庆共轭源函数，建立了海浪同化模型，数值计算仍采用特征线嵌入计算格式，为合成孔径雷达波谱反演资料和卫星高度计有效波高资料同化奠定理论基础。 相似文献
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受全球气候变化的影响,极区海浪尤其是北极海浪在过去几十年发生了显著的变化,使得海冰边缘区海冰与海浪的相互作用愈发显著。本文从物理海洋学的角度出发,较系统地总结了海冰对海浪作用研究的国内外现状,从理论和实测的角度分别探讨了海冰对海浪能量的耗散及其引起的波动频散关系的变化,同时分析了当前海冰覆盖海域海浪的数值模拟与现场观测研究,指出了未来开展有冰海域海浪数值模拟与预报所面临的主要问题,并对该方向今后的研究做出展望。总体来看,尽管海冰对海浪作用的机理复杂且与海冰类型高度相关,但是海冰对海浪能量的衰减与传播距离基本呈指数关系,并且海冰会一定程度上影响海浪的传播速度。未来依然需要更多不同海冰类型下海浪的观测数据以开展进一步的机理分析、模型检验和参数校准,进而实现高精度的业务化预报。 相似文献
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应用内外解匹配的方法和驻相法推导了柱坐标系下地震引起的水面波动方程的解,即推导了地震海啸波生成与传播的理论方程,并对越洋地震海啸理论方程进行了求解。基于Boussinesq方程出发,建立了二维越洋海啸波传播数学模型,并对越洋海啸进行了数值计算,计算方法采用有限差分方法,差分格式采用交替方向隐格式(Alternating Direction Implicit即ADI方法)。利用越洋海啸计算模式对发生在大洋中的地震海啸进行了模拟,将数值模拟结果与地震海啸波理论方程的计算结果进行了比较,两种计算结果吻合较好。 相似文献
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南海潜在海啸灾害的模拟 总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7
结合南海海域的地形条件、地质构造、地震学特征以及历史地震记录，在回顾总结国内外学者研究的基础上，分析了南海可能引发地震海啸的震源区域，并讨论了在我国南海沿岸发生海啸灾害的潜在可能性。采用目前在国际上广泛使用的COMCOT海啸模式，对马尼拉海沟的潜在地震引发的海啸进行了数值模拟计算，计算中包含了由地震参数到海面初始变形的转换、海啸的深水传播过程以及海啸的浅水传播过程。采用三重嵌套网格，外层网格对应于大范围的深水区域，使用球坐标系下的线性控制方程；第二层网格对应中等范围的较浅水区域，使用球坐标系下的非线性控制方程；第三层网格对应小范围的浅水区域，使用直角坐标系下的非线性控制方程。由模拟计算得到的海啸传时分布、近岸海面升降强度、四个特定点上海面高度随时间变化等的结果表明,我国南海沿岸遭受海啸袭击的可能性是存在的，应进一步对南海海啸进行监测、预警和研究。COMCOT模式性能良好，可用于对南海潜在地震海啸的进一步模拟研究。 相似文献
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在曲线坐标系下,建立了缓变水深水域波浪传播的数值模拟模型.模型适宜于复杂变化的边界形状,克服了各种代数坐标变换的局限性.在建立模型时,将原始的椭圆型缓坡方程的近似型式——依赖时间变化的抛物型方程,作为控制方程,既克服了一般抛物近似方法的缺点,又便利了方程的求解;从开边界条件、不同反射特性的固壁边界条件相统一的表达式出发,对边界条件进行处理;用ADI法数值求解控制方程.对模型的验证表明,数值解与物模实验值吻合良好,模型对于具有复杂边界的工程实际有较强的适应性. 相似文献
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岛屿岛礁海域海浪能谱模型研究进展 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
波浪能谱模型在岛屿岛礁海域的波浪预报研究和海洋工程中应用广泛,但存在模式计算格点无法充分体现岛屿岛礁的复杂地形特征和很难刻画波浪受到岛屿岛礁影响发生变形物理过程等两个关键问题。多重网格嵌套方案、岛屿次网格地形效应计算方案以及非结构网格、无网格、动态自适应四叉树网格等技术在体现岛屿岛礁复杂地形方面取得了较好的效果;将相位解析模型与波浪能谱模型优势互补是提高能谱模型对岛屿近岸波浪变形物理过程计算能力的一个有效方法。开展球坐标系下波作用密度谱方程的自适应四叉树网格求解方法研究,借鉴相位解析模型最新成果完善能谱模式的绕射、反射、底摩擦等物理过程,是提高岛屿岛礁海域海浪精细预报技术水平的前沿性、探索性研究方向。 相似文献
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特征线计算格式下共轭方程两种导出途径的比较 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
共轭方程的导出是建立资料同化模型的关键，其导出方式有两种途径：AFD形式与FDA形式。在特征线计算格式基础上针对一类较广泛海洋动力控制方程分析了其两种共轭方程（AFD形式与FDA形式）之间的关系，并将理论结果应用于波谱共轭方程的讨论。 相似文献
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Yoshiaki Toba 《Journal of Oceanography》1972,28(3):109-120
A new growth equation for wind waves of simple spectrum is presented upon three basic concepts. The period and the wave height of significant waves in dimensionless forms, which are considered to correspond to the peak frequency and the energy level, respectively, are used as representative quantities of wind waves. One of the three basic concepts is the concept of local balance, and the other two concern the acquisition of wave energy and the dissipation of wave energy, respectively. It is shown from some actual data that the equation, together with two universal constants concerning the acquisition and the dissipation of wave energy (B=6.2×10?2 andK=2.16×10?5, respectively), is applied universally to wide ranges of wind waves from those in a wind-wave tunnel to fully developed sea in the open ocean. “The three-second power law for wind waves of simple spectrum”, and a few relations as the lemmas, are derived, such that the mean surface transport due to the orbital motion of wind waves is always proportional to the friction velocity in wind, and that the steepness is inversely proportional to the root of the wave age. It is also derived that the portion of wind stress which directly enters the wind waves decreases exponentially with increasing wave age and is 7.5 % of the total wind stress for very young waves. Also, equations are presented as to the increase of momentum of drift current, and as to the supply of turbulent energy by wind waves into the upper ocean. 相似文献
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Hisashi Mitsuyasu 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(1):109-120
The modern study of ocean surface waves started with a pioneer study by Sverdrup and Munk (1947). More than half a century
has passed since then and the study of ocean surface waves has greatly advanced. The current numerical wave models, supported
by many fundamental studies, enable us to compute ocean surface waves on a global scale with sufficient accuracy for practical
purposes. However, physical process controlling the energy balance of ocean surface waves is still not completely understood.
The present note is a rough sketch of the historical development of the study of ocean surface waves in the latter half of
the twentieth century when the Oceanographic Society of Japan was founded and grew.
This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
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海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍能量收支的影响 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
海浪破碎产生一向下输入的湍动能通量,在近海表处形成一湍流生成明显增加的次层,加强了海洋上混合层中的湍流垂向混合。为了研究海浪破碎对混合层中湍能量收支的影响,文中分析了海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍流生成的影响机制,采用垂向一维湍封闭混合模式,通过改变湍动能方程的上边界条件,引入了海浪破碎产生的湍动能通量,并分别对不同风速下海浪破碎的影响进行了数值研究,分析了混合层中湍能量收支的变化。当考虑海浪破碎影响时,近海表次层中的垂直扩散项和耗散项都有显著的增加,该次层中被耗散的湍动能占整个混合层中耗散的总的湍能量的92.0%,比无海浪破碎影响的结果增加了近1倍;由于平均流场切变减小,混合层中的湍流剪切生成减小了3.5%,形成一种存在于湍动能的耗散和垂直扩散之间的局部平衡关系。在该次层以下,局部平衡关系与壁层定律的结论一致,即湍动能的剪切生成与耗散相平衡。研究结果表明,海浪破碎在海表产生的湍动能通量影响了海洋上混合层中的各项湍能量收支间的局部平衡关系。 相似文献
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A new three-dimensional numerical model is derived through a wave average on the primitive N-S equations, in which both the＂Coriolis-Stokes forcing＂ and the＂Stokes-Vortex force＂ are considered. Three ideal experiments are run using the new model applied to the Princeton ocean model （POM）. Numerical results show that surface waves play an important role on the mixing of the upper ocean. The mixed layer is enhanced when wave effect is considered in conjunction with small Langmuir numbers. Both surface wave breaking and Stokes production can strengthen the turbulent mixing near the surface. However, the influence of wave breaking is limited to a thin layer, but Stokes drift can affect the whole mixed layer. Furthermore, the vertical mixing coefficients clearly rise in the mixed layer, and the upper ocean mixed layer is deepened especially in the Antarctic Circumpolar Current when the model is applied to global simulations. It indicates that the surface gravity waves are indispensable in enhancing the mixing in the upper ocean, and should be accounted for in ocean general circulation models. 相似文献
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V. N. Kudryavtsev 《Physical Oceanography》1997,8(2):69-80
A model for the spectrum of capillary waves has been constructed. These waves are generated at the crests of short gravity
waves and decay due to viscosity. Capillary wave generation leads to short gravity wave dissipation. Using empirical data
on the short gravity wave dissipation spectrum, a relation for the capillary wave spectrum is derived from the equation of
energy balance of capillary waves. The capillary wave spectrum is matched with the known Donelan-Pierson spectrum for short
gravity waves. The obtained relation for the spectrum of wind-generated ripple is compared with the data of laboratory experiments.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
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浅海水下地形的SAR遥感仿真研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
结合连续性方程和布拉格后向散射模型,在准一维简化浅海水下地形情况下,建立了浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度仿真模型,将浅海水下地形区域的SAR海面后向散射强度的相对变化与大尺度背景流场、海面风场和雷达系统参数等联系起来.海上实验和研究结果表明,浅海水下地形的SAR成像主要由通过受水下地形影响的海表层流场对海表面风引起的微尺度波的水动力调制而获取浅海水下地形信息,其中潮流与水下地形的相互作用过程改变海表层流场,变化的海表层流与海表面微尺度波之间的相互作用改变海表面波的空间分布,雷达波与海表面波之间的相互作用决定雷达海面后向散射强度.因此SAR图像中浅海水下地形或水深信息量的多少不仅与海表层流场和海面风速有关,而且与雷达工作波段、雷达波束入射角和极化方式也密切相关.认为由水下地形变化引起的缓慢变化的表层流场中海表面定常微尺度波谱能量密度的变化满足波作用量谱平衡方程;而在波数空间中,海表面微尺度波谱的成长过程也可以用波数谱平衡方程描述,在此基础上,得出了海表面波高频谱(毛细-重力波)形式的解析表达式.众所周知,浅海水下地形信息是由于水下地形影响下SAR海面后向散射强度与背景海面后向散射强度的相对差异而在SAR图像上的呈现,从而在建立浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度仿真模型的基础上,仿真计算了浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度相对于海表层流场、海面风场等海况参数和SAR工作波段、SAR波束入射角、极化方式等雷达系统参数的数值仿真结果,分析得到了有关浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度的特征和SAR浅海水下地形遥感的最佳海况参数与最佳雷达系统参数,为研究和开展SAR浅海水下地形遥感研究提供了有价值的参考. 相似文献
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The nonlinear interactions of waves with a double-peaked power spectrum have been studied in shallow water.The starting point is the prototypical equation for nonlinear unidirectional waves in shallow water,i.e.the Korteweg de Vries equation.By means of a multiple-scale technique two defocusing coupled Nonlinear Schrdinger equations are derived.It is found analytically that plane wave solutions of such a system are unstable for small perturbations,showing that the existence of a new energy exchange mechanism which can influence the behavior of ocean waves in shallow water. 相似文献
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Numerical Simulation of Spatial Lag Between Wave Breaking Point and Location of Maximum Wave-Induced Current 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point.The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction.The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress.An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy.The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation.Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance.The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward. 相似文献