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从海岸演变、沉积过程、动力条件、泥沙运移等多角度阐述了北戴河海滩养护区域自然环境条件.北戴河海岸属于岬湾沙质海岸,具备岬湾养滩的天然条件,发育多条断续分布的水下沙坝,原滩剖面为侵蚀性剖面;西海滩蚀退速率＞2 m/a,属于严重侵蚀岸段;波浪的强浪向NNE和ENE,常浪向S,潮流为NE —SW向的往复流,沿岸泥沙净输沙方向为NE— SW向.洋河浅海泥沙中值粒径为0.31～0.58 mm,物化性质均符合养滩需求,为理想沙源.通过构建合适的人工岬头和离岸潜堤配合人工养滩可以恢复受蚀的海滩. 相似文献
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《应用海洋学学报》2015,(1)
通过对厦门香山-长尾礁养护后海滩的地形地貌和沉积物的变化进行研究,分析了养护后海滩的演变特征,发现该海滩养护后第一年内海滩平面和剖面变化最剧烈,滩肩外缘线和0 m线蚀退量最大,滩肩外缘线平均蚀退20.0 m,最大蚀退量达30.0 m,0 m线平均蚀退8.0 m,最大蚀退量达12.8 m,海滩滩面变陡,坡度从初始的3.5°变成了6.4°,滩面沉积物从0.30~0.66 mm变粗到1.46mm,之后趋于一个相对稳定的态势.应用经验正交函数(EOF)提取香山-长尾礁海滩自2009年4月至2014年3月竣工后60个月内15次的剖面监测数据中的主要空间模态和时间模态信息来分析海滩剖面的时空变化特征,结果表明该海滩有两个主要模态,第一模态是滩肩剖面和沙坝剖面的转换,其贡献率为77.72%,第二模态表现为大潮高潮位的侵蚀性滩角,该模态贡献率为13.53%.采用GSTA模型进行泥沙净运移趋势分析,结果显示该海滩泥沙总体上呈向岸运移的趋势,说明近年来养护后的海滩基本处于稳定状态.海滩养护5a后,后滨填沙保存88%,养护后的海滩形态与预期的形态相近,养滩效果良好. 相似文献
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以北戴河海滩横断面地形为例,采用平面二维水动力学、波浪、泥沙输运模型的数值计算方法,对不同沙坝位置进行了3种水位的极限波高入射数值试验,获取了坝内外波浪透射系数及稳定后的断面地形,并对波浪的消减及岸滩防护效果进行了分析与对比。结果表明:人工沙坝具有较好的消波效能,并能对岸滩起到较好的养护效果,将为类似侵蚀性海滩的生态修复提供科学依据。 相似文献
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大量工程实践表明,海滩养护是当前抵御海岸侵蚀的常见措施。通过人为地向海滩补充沙源,以达到海岸防护、修复沙滩等目的。本文建立了XBeach一维海滩剖面演变数值模型,并与物理模型试验结果进行对比验证;计算常浪条件下不同方案补沙后海滩剖面达到平衡状态的速率;通过对比补沙工况与未补沙工况的风暴后剖面,分析风暴作用下的防护效果。结果发现,补沙量较大时,沙坝向海侧位置补沙在常浪条件下补沙效率高于滩肩补沙,在风暴条件下防护效果优于滩肩补沙。此次研究对于在实际海滩养护过程中节约施工成本、提高施工效率有着重要意义,同时对于评估沙滩养护工程效果有一定的参考价值。 相似文献
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海平面变化及其海岸响应 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
第四纪气温的大幅度冷暖变化，导致全球海平面的变化，引起陆架海侵扣海退。海岸上的各种地貌如海滩、沙坝、三角洲扣陆架沙脊等响应海平面升降而发生新的演化扣变异。东海陆架古岸线、围绕古岸线发育的陆架沙脊、陆架深切河谷扣河谷充填沉积以及冰后期海进型扣海退型沙坝的形成乖演化等沉积事件都是响应海平面升降的结果。近百年来特别是近30年全球海平面普遍上升，引起风暴潮的频度扣幅度的增大。近岸波能增强，越滩浪增多，导致海滩侵蚀，岸线后退。Bruun法则扣其他一些模型能够说明海滩随海平面上升而蚀退的规律，但在预测速率时仍存在很多问题。使用时应注意海平面变化的区域性、海滩发育的滞后性和海滩蚀退因素间的权重关系。 相似文献
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基于人工沙坝影响波浪破碎的理论分析,采用极端高水位、设计高水位和0.00m水位下的极限波高作为入射波,对近岸人工沙坝进行了模拟试验,研究波浪动力对人工沙坝剖面的变形及其对岸滩养护的影响。结果表明:坝顶水深和沙坝高度之比h/d决定沙坝的稳定性,h/d较小时,沙坝能接近稳定;沙坝的变形与坝前波浪破碎有关,可用坝顶水深和临界水深之比h/hb判定波浪在沙坝上的破碎;近岸人工沙坝使波浪提前破碎,滩肩拓宽,使泥沙向岸输移大于向海输移,减小岸滩侵蚀区域,增大淤积范围。 相似文献
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近岸人工沙坝保滩促淤的试验研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
借助正态波浪模型,对北戴河海滩某横断面有、无沙坝布置进行了3种水位的极限波高入射试验,测取了坝内外波高过程线及稳定后的断面地形。试验资料及理论分析显示:有无沙坝时沿岸流及波浪的挟沙能力之比与水下沙坝的波浪透射系数的平方成正比,按试验最大透射系数计算的挟沙能力亦可降50%左右,且有沙坝上涌带破波回流对岸滩的冲刷水深可以维持在平均海平面以下1 m内,说明人工沙坝的填筑很大程度促使水体挟带泥沙于掩护区域落淤有效的阻止了泥沙的离岸亏损。试验将为保滩促淤工程设计与实施提供科学依据。 相似文献
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风暴是造成海滩剧烈变化的重要因子。由于观测环境的恶劣，目前极少有风暴过程中海滩响应的现场高频观测工作。本研究在2018年台风“贝碧嘉”期间对徐闻青安湾海滩开展了历时6天半的高频观测，获得了全时水动力要素和164组逐时海滩滩面高程变化数据。通过分析表明:(1)青安湾海域风暴增水及波浪受控于海南岛?雷州半岛特有的地形地貌和台风“贝碧嘉”的多变路径，增水稳定在0.38～0.5 m之间，而波高先由0.78 m衰减至0.43 m，再增加至0.56 m；(2)海滩剖面地形变化总体表现为滩肩侵蚀，形成水下沙坝，滩肩响应过程分为快速向下侵蚀、缓慢侵蚀至最大值、振荡回淤恢复3个阶段，台风期间滩肩振荡恢复幅度可达最大侵蚀深度的1/4；(3)海滩的风暴响应过程主要由4个模态耦合而成:第一模态体现大潮滩肩侵蚀生成水下沙坝过程；第二模态体现风暴滩肩侵蚀，补偿大潮滩肩侵蚀位置和进一步促进沙坝形成过程；第三模态揭示了波浪二次破碎位置的上冲流和离岸底流使泥沙发生双向输移过程；第四模态表明台风大浪使得碎波带内泥沙大量悬浮，在沿岸流和离岸流作用下部分悬沙进入深水区，可能造成海滩泥沙的永久亏损。 相似文献
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海滩侵蚀已经成为全球性的大问题,不仅引起了学术界广泛关注,也引起了民众的普遍关心。当前防护海滩侵蚀最有效的措施为海滩喂养,即人工补沙。本文采用极端高水位、设计高水位和0.00m水位,进行近岸人工沙坝二维断面试验,研究不同水位下人工沙坝以及岸滩的变化,探究不同水位对人工补沙养滩防护效果的影响。试验结果表明:不同水位条件下,水位低时,人工沙坝顶部在形成的沙槽,随着水位升高,沙槽消失;岸滩受到波浪侵蚀区域向岸移动,侵蚀区域面积在扩大,岸滩的淤积区域也向岸移动。本文对所研究内容利用Flow-3D进行了数值模拟研究,其结果与物理试验吻合,可为近海补沙养滩工程提供理论依据。 相似文献
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XIE Ming-xiao ZHANG Chi YANG Zhi-wen LI Shan LI Xin GUO Wei-jun ZUO Shu-hua 《海洋工程》2017,31(5):549-558
A process-based 3D numerical model for surfzone hydrodynamics and beach evolution was established. Comparisons between the experimental data and model results proved that the model could effectively describe the hydrodynamics, sediment transport feature and sandbar migration process in the surfzone with satisfactory precision. A series of numerical simulations on the wave breaking and shoaling up to a barred beach were carried out based on the model system. Analyzed from the model results, the wave-induced current system in the surfzone consists of two major processes, which are the phase-averaged undertow caused by wave breaking and the net drift caused by both of the nonlinear wave motion and surface roller effect. When storm waves come to the barred beach, the strong offshore undertow along the beach suppresses the onshore net drift, making the initial sandbar migrate to the seaside. Under the condition of calm wave environment, both the undertow and net drift flow to the shoreline at the offshore side of the sandbar, and then push the initial sandbar to the shoreline. The consideration of surface roller has significant impact on the modeling results of the sandbar migration. As the roller transfer rate increases, the sandbar moves onshore especially under the storm wave condition. 相似文献
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The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach. 相似文献
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Torrey Pines State Beach, a site with large seasonal fluctuations in sand level, received a small shoreface beach fill (about 160,000 m3) in April 2001. The 600 m-long, flat-topped nourishment pad extended from a highway riprap revetment seaward about 60 m, terminating in a 2 m-tall vertical scarp. A 2.7 km alongshore span, centered on the nourishment region, was monitored prior to the nourishment and biweekly to monthly for the following 2 years. For the first 7 months after the nourishment, through fall 2001, significant wave heights were small, and the elevated beach fill remained in place, with little change near and above Mean Sea Level (MSL). In contrast, the shoreline accreted on nearby control beaches following a seasonal pattern common in southern California, reducing the elevation difference between the nourished and adjacent beaches. During the first winter storm (3 m significant wave height), the shoreline retreated rapidly over the entire 2.7 km survey reach, forming an alongshore-oriented sandbar in 3 to 4 m water depth [Seymour, R.J., Guza, R.T., O'Reilly, W., Elgar, S., 2004. Rapid erosion of a Southern California beach fill. Coastal Engineering 52 (2), 151–158.]. We show that the winter sandbar, most pronounced offshore of the nourishment, moved back onto the beach face during summer 2002 (following the usual seasonal pattern) and formed a wider beach above MSL at the site of the original nourishment than on the control beaches. Thus, the April 2001 shoreline nourishment was detectable until late fall 2002, persisting locally over a full seasonal cycle. In an extended 7-year time series, total sand volumes (summed between the back beach and 8 m water depth, over the entire 2.7 km reach) exhibit multi-year fluctuations of unknown origin that are twice as large as the nourishment volume. 相似文献
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厦门岛海滩剖面对9914号台风大浪波动力的快速响应 总被引：17，自引：1，他引：17
根据 9914号台风发生前后对厦门岛滨岸海滩剖面地形的重复测量结果及有关台风要素和潮位的实测资料 ,探讨了台风袭击厦门岛期间海滩的变形特征和侵蚀状态。分析得出 ,海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击普遍发生急剧变化。横向冲淤变形以东岸海滩为最剧烈 :滩肩蚀退可达 2 5m ;滩面呈上冲下淤 ,上段和滩肩的单宽冲蚀量达 30m3 /m ;下段单宽淤积量达 17m3 /m ;剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变。这种变形特点是在台风大浪波动力和潮位暴涨的双重作用下造成的。台风期间 ,沿岸输沙能力以北岸最高 ,南岸次之 ,东岸较低 ;且自南岸到东岸 ,随着沿岸输沙量减少 ,横向变形相应有增大的趋势。这是9914号台风以偏东方向袭击厦门的结果。表明不同方向海岸岸滩地形对同一台风大浪波动力作用具有不同响应特征。 相似文献
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Several levels of increasing complexity of transferring wave information from offshore to nearshore have been studied to quantify their influence on extreme beach erosion estimates. Beach profiles which have been monitored since 1976 were used to estimate extreme beach erosion and compared to predictions. Examination of the wave propagation assumptions revolves around two types of offshore to nearshore transfer: excluding or including wave breaking and bottom friction. A second complication is whether still water level variations (ocean tide plus storm surge) are included.The inclusion of various combinations of wave propagation processes other than shoaling and refraction in the wave transfer function changes on the extreme erosion distribution tail through lowering estimates above one year return period. This brings the predicted tails closer to the observations, but does not capture the upper limit of storm demand implied by the extensive beach profile data set. Including wave breaking has a marked effect on probabilistic estimates of beach erosion. The inclusion of bottom friction is less significant. The inclusion of still water level variability in the wave transfer calculation had minimal impact on results for the case study site, where waves were transferred from offshore to water at 20 m depth. These changes were put into perspective by comparing them to changes resulting from limiting beach erosion by adjusting the statistical distributions of peak wave height and storm duration to have maximum limits. We conclude that the proposed improvements on wave transformation methods are as significant as limiting wave erosion potential and worth including. 相似文献
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实施人工岬角和海滩养护的软硬措施相结合的方法是探索解决海滩侵蚀问题的新举措之一。基于验证良好的水动力模型建立了泥沙输运和海床演变模型,对秦皇岛市新开河口至南山岸线海滩经整治修复工程实施后的泥沙输运和海床演变规律进行模拟分析。结果表明:大潮与常浪耦合作用下,研究区域周围海域流速整体上落急时刻大于涨急时刻,沙坝掩护水域的流速较弱,波浪在沙坝处增强并在沙坝后破碎并减弱;在沙坝处出现高悬沙浓度区域,悬沙浓度分布主要由底床切应力控制,部分受水动力影响。大潮与强浪耦合作用下,在沙坝处出现远大于常浪时的增强水流(波生流),方向与强浪向一致,波浪在沙坝处已破碎且沙坝对强浪的削减效率大于常浪;与常浪作用下不同,悬沙浓度场在强浪作用下沙坝处没有出现明显的高浓度区域。波流耦合作用下,人工岬角单独存在时护岸效果有限,工程实施后在人工岬角和人工沙坝的配合下,沙坝处侵蚀而沙坝后侧掩护区域淤积,沙坝起到了有效养护海滩的作用。 相似文献
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浙江朱家尖岛东沙海滩对热带风暴“娜基莉”的响应及风暴后的恢复 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
海滩对风暴的响应及风暴后海滩的恢复过程一直以来都是国内外海滩研究的热点。本文通过对浙江舟山市朱家尖岛东沙海滩地形地貌的现场调查，对比分析了热带风暴"娜基莉"影响下东沙海滩剖面的蚀积变化，探讨了海滩在热带风暴发生后的恢复情况。结果表明，在"娜基莉"影响期间，因风暴浪为向岸浪，东沙海滩几乎遭受全线侵蚀，12个剖面单宽侵蚀总量为73.46 m3/m，其中海滩直线段较两个遮蔽段侵蚀显著。由于海滩在风暴前进方向的左侧，且"娜基莉"距东沙较远，使得东沙海滩普遍侵蚀但强度较小。东沙海滩在热带风暴后的恢复过程中，不同部位的地貌调整和冲淤变化不同，下岬角遮蔽段基本趋于稳定，直线段和上岬角遮蔽段在恢复过程中因受海滩季节性调整的影响呈现持续侵蚀。 相似文献
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The possibility of using wave farms for coastal defence warrants investigation because wave energy is poised to become a major renewable in many countries over the next decades. The fundamental question in this regard is whether a wave farm can be used to reduce beach erosion under storm conditions. If the answer to this question is positive, then a wave farm can have coastal defence as a subsidiary function, in addition to its primary role of producing carbon-free energy. The objective of this work is to address this question by comparing the response of a beach in the face of a storm in two scenarios: with and without the wave farm. For this comparison a set of ad hoc impact indicators is developed: the bed level impact (BLI), beach face eroded area (FEA), non-dimensional erosion reduction (NER), and mean cumulative eroded area (CEA); and their values are determined by means of two coupled models: a high-resolution wave propagation model (SWAN) and a coastal processes model (XBeach). The study is conducted through a case study: Perranporth Beach (UK). Backed by a well-developed dune system, Perranporth has a bar between − 5 m and − 10 m. The results show that the wave farm reduces the eroded volume by as much as 50% and thus contributes effectively to coastal protection. This synergy between marine renewable energy and coastal defence may well contribute to improving the viability of wave farms through savings in conventional coastal protection. 相似文献