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1.
李松喆 《海洋工程》2021,39(4):144-153
基于历史海图、历史时期卫星遥感影像、2019年实测水下地形和潮流、波浪数值模拟成果,研究该海域岸滩的发育演变背景、海床和岸线自然冲淤动态、动力泥沙环境及岸滩冲淤动力机制。采用LITLINE岸线演变数学模型,模拟计算了不同离岸距离和不同平面形态人工岛布置型式对近岸岸线变形的影响,岸滩泥沙动力机制和岸滩演变趋势表明,人工岛实施后近岸最大潮流流速小于近岸泥沙起动流速,不具备起动近岸岸滩泥沙的基本条件; SSE向波浪作用时,人工岛西北侧波高明显减弱,波向西偏; S向波浪作用时,人工岛北侧波高明显减弱; SSW向波浪作用时,人工岛东北侧波高明显减弱,波浪传播方向东偏;波浪场改变后人工岛掩护区东西两侧岸滩附近泥沙分别具有向东和向西运移至人工岛掩护区的趋势,形成掩护区的淤积和东西两侧岸线冲刷。  相似文献   

2.
近年来随着河流入海泥沙减少等原因,我国海岸遭侵蚀的现象愈趋突出.研究岸滩演变规律、建立合理可行的预测方法有着重要而迫切的现实意义.运用宇多的等深线变化模型的原理,建立适用于潮汐海岸岸滩演变的预测模型.合理解决沿岸泥沙量沿水深分布的计算问题是建立模型的一个关键,为此引入潮间带破波历时分布的概念,提出了半潮时内的潮间带波浪输沙量及其沿岸滩断面的分布.运用该模型对鲁南侵蚀岸段进行了验证和预测计算,结果表明,计算结果合理,基本反映了该岸段的演变特征.  相似文献   

3.
波浪掀沙、潮流输沙的数值模拟   总被引:39,自引:7,他引:39       下载免费PDF全文
曹祖德  王桂芬 《海洋学报》1993,15(1):107-118
在淤泥质海岸上,促使岸滩演变的基本动力过程是波浪掀沙、潮流输沙.它与岸滩演变、港口回淤、航道淤积、闸下淤积等许多问题有关.本文重点介绍波浪掀沙、潮流输沙及海底演变过程,论述其数值模拟的数学理论即各种动力因素的控制方程及地形演变方程,论述波浪掀沙、潮流输沙的物理过程.通过理论分析与实践验证,并确定模拟演变过程的几个重要参数,如潮流底部剪切应力、波浪潮流共同作用下的底部剪切应力、风对水面的剪切应力以及波浪剩余动量流等,为正确的模拟提供了可靠的依据.文章通过应用实例说明此模拟是正确的,可应用于该领域内的各种复杂问题.  相似文献   

4.
二维沙质海滩的类型和冲淤判数   总被引:3,自引:1,他引:3  
向岸-离岸泥沙运动是岸滩演变过程中一个重要部分。笔者在波浪水槽中进行了二维冲滩实验,在此在基础上研究了岸滩各种类型及它们的输沙特点;依据近岸波浪动力结构特点,讨论了近岸泥沙运动规律及影响岸滩冲淤变化的主要参变数,最后运用拜格诺(Bagnold)能量模式导得岸滩冲淤类型的判别式。  相似文献   

5.
琼州海峡南岸海岸动力地貌研究   总被引:6,自引:0,他引:6  
陈沈良 《热带海洋》1998,17(3):34-42
岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南  相似文献   

6.
连云港新建吹泥站工程为淤泥质海滩演变提供了研究实例。观测表明,波浪是造成淤泥质岸滩冲刷的主要动力,而潮流的扩散是泥沙运移的主要动力。海滩演变主要发生在经常性破波作用范围(-3m等深线)以内。淤泥质岸滩剖面的变化与近岸泥沙供应及横向水动力强度分布有关,后者用波浪和潮流底切力表达。本文对此作了定性分析并对海滩冲淤进行了计算,结果与吹泥条件下海滩演变的观测一致。  相似文献   

7.
岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。  相似文献   

8.
南渡江三角洲海岸泥沙纵向运移与岸滩演变的响应   总被引:7,自引:0,他引:7  
南渡三角洲沿岸在盛行NNE向波浪等动力条件的作用下,泥沙产生纵向运移,岸滩遭受侵蚀或堆积,岸滩演变剧烈。本文利用基于网格的波注折射绕射模型,分析南渡江三角洲海岸波浪动力过程、破波带波能与辐射应力分布及其引起的沿岸泥沙纵向运称。浴海岸动力学地貌的角度,通过三角洲沿岸波浪动力特征、泥沙运动的分析,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变。  相似文献   

9.
人工沙滩与潜堤结合是沙质岸滩软硬防护相结合的防护技术。本文在利用实验室物模试验结果对XBeach水沙运动数值模型进行了有效性检验的基础上,应用该模型对月亮湾沙滩修复工程人工沙滩与潜堤相结合的岸滩防护技术,进行岸滩剖面演变数值分析。通过对风暴海况波浪作用下,该工程有、无潜堤以及潜堤不同位置和不同高度的5个工况数值计算结果分析,得出潜堤的设置,可以使沙滩侵蚀有不同程度的减轻或范围缩小,对人工沙滩防护具有良好的效果;潜堤的位置和高度影响其对沙质岸滩防护效果,潜堤的位置后移和高度升高都会使波浪的冲泄区下移,从而减少对上部沙滩的侵蚀,对人工沙滩的防护效果更好。  相似文献   

10.
通过波浪水槽实验,开展不同类型波浪作用下的沙质岸滩演化规律研究工作。本次实验研究不考虑比尺,采用1:10与1:20组成的复合沙质斜坡对岸滩进行概化,选取规则波和椭圆余弦波两种典型波浪作用,对波浪的传播、变形和破碎、上爬、回落过程以及波浪作用前后沙质岸滩床面地形进行了观测,探讨波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面演化规律。本文实验工况中,规则波作用下,岸滩剖面呈现出沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面,椭圆余弦波作用下的岸滩剖面均呈滩肩形态,发现岸滩剖面形态不仅与波浪作用类型、强度、周期等因素相关,还与波浪破碎的强度等因素有关。通过对实验过程中现象的进行观察和分析,引入了卷破波水舌冲击角的概念。对波浪卷破破碎后形成的水流挟沙运动与岸滩剖面形态的关系进行定性分析,对水舌冲击角与Irribarren参数之间的关系进行定量分析,基于Irribarren参数与岸滩剖面形态的关系初步建立了波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面形态判别关系式。通过本文实验结果和前人实验结果对趋势线进行拟合,求得其判别系数,判别式能够较好地划分淤积型岸滩、侵蚀型岸滩及过渡型岸滩三种岸滩形态。  相似文献   

11.
A reformed numerical model based on the “one-line theory” for beach deformation is presented. In this model, the change of beach slope during coastline procession is considered.A wave numerical model combined with wave refraction, diffraction and reflection is used to simulate wave climate to increase numerical accuracy.The results show that the numerical model has a good precision based on the adequate field data. The results can be applied to practical engineering.  相似文献   

12.
A process-based 3D numerical model for surfzone hydrodynamics and beach evolution was established. Comparisons between the experimental data and model results proved that the model could effectively describe the hydrodynamics, sediment transport feature and sandbar migration process in the surfzone with satisfactory precision. A series of numerical simulations on the wave breaking and shoaling up to a barred beach were carried out based on the model system. Analyzed from the model results, the wave-induced current system in the surfzone consists of two major processes, which are the phase-averaged undertow caused by wave breaking and the net drift caused by both of the nonlinear wave motion and surface roller effect. When storm waves come to the barred beach, the strong offshore undertow along the beach suppresses the onshore net drift, making the initial sandbar migrate to the seaside. Under the condition of calm wave environment, both the undertow and net drift flow to the shoreline at the offshore side of the sandbar, and then push the initial sandbar to the shoreline. The consideration of surface roller has significant impact on the modeling results of the sandbar migration. As the roller transfer rate increases, the sandbar moves onshore especially under the storm wave condition.  相似文献   

13.
1.Introduction Long shorecurrenthasbecomethesubjectofextensiveworldwideresearchformanyyears.The purposeofthestudyistounderstandandpredicttheprocessesofsedimenttransport,shorelineevolu tionandpollutanttransportinthenear shorezoneundertheactionofwaves.Goda(2001)regarded thesuspendedsedimentastheprincipalloadinsedimenttransportandtheeffectoflong shorecurrents wasemphasized.Theeffectofwavesonpollutanttransportwasstudiedbynumericalmodelandfield experiment(TaoandHan,2002;Rodriguezetal.,1995),andth…  相似文献   

14.
By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field.  相似文献   

15.
This work aims to demonstrate an advancement towards the integrated modelling of surf zone hydrodynamics by means of a VOF-type numerical model (COBRAS-UC) based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes equations. In this paper, the numerical model is adapted and validated for the study of nearshore processes on a mildly-sloping beach. The model prediction of wave energy transformation and higher order statistics (skewness and asymmetry) are in good agreement with detailed laboratory observations from a barred beach [Boers, M. (1996). “Simulation of a surf zone with a barred beach; Report 1: Wave heights and wave breaking”. Tech. Rep.96-5, Comm. on Hydrol. and Geol. Eng., Dept. of Civil Engineering, Delft University of Technology]. Moreover, the numerical model allows us to study the low-frequency motions inside the surf zone. It is found that in order to achieve a satisfactory simulation of both short- and long-wave transformation, the numerical model must achieve: (i) the simultaneous second-order wave generation and absorption, (ii) the energy transfer between triad of components, (iii) the short- and long-wave energy dissipation inside the surf zone, and (iv) the wave reflection at the shoreline. Comparisons between numerical and experimental results demonstrate the model capability to satisfactorily simulate all the aforementioned processes.  相似文献   

16.
The paper focuses on the numerical simulation of erosion of plane sloping beaches by irregular wave attack in three wave flumes of different scales. One of the prime objectives of the tests was to provide a consistent data set for the improvement of numerical beach profile models. A practical application of this research with wave attack on plane sloping beaches is the erosion of the plane beaches after nourishment. Three models (CROSMOR, UNIBEST-TC and DELFT3D) have been used to simulate the flume experimental results focusing on the wave height distribution and the morphological development (erosion and deposition) along the beach profiles. Overall, the model predictions for wave heights show consistent results. Generally, the computed wave heights (Hrms and H1/3) are within 10% to 15% of the measured values for all tests (under-prediction of the largest wave heights close to the shore). The three models can simulate the beach erosion of the wave flume tests (erosive tests) reasonably well using default values of the sand transport parameters. The model performance for the accretive tests is less good than that for the erosive tests. A practical field application of this research is the erosion of nourished beaches, as these beaches generally have rather plane beach slopes immediately after nourishment. Various graphs are given to estimate the beach erosion of nourished beaches.  相似文献   

17.
A numerical model is developed to compute the shoreline planform in a crenulate bay beach. The new model combines polar and Cartesian coordinates and can be used effectively to compute a hooked zone shoreline in the lee of upcoast headland. The model is calibrated using laboratory data with an incident wave angle ranging from 25° to 60°. The results of calibration and verification suggest that the ratio of the sediment transport parameters by wave and longshore current in this model is close to unity, and the computed shoreline planforms for the hooked and unhooked zones are in good agreement with the ones measured, especially when a bay is close to static equilibrium. In addition, the bay shape calculated by the present model is similar to that given by the well-known empirical parabolic equation for a bay in static equilibrium. The process of bay shape development from a straight beach to a static equilibrium bay is studied using laboratory experiments and the present numerical model. The temporal variations in the computed longshore sediment transport at different locations within a bay beach are analyzed. From this the decrease in the sediment transport becomes apparent while a bay beach changes its shape from straight toward a state of equilibrium. Based on this experience, it may be concluded that the present numerical model can produce a temporal change in the shoreline planform of a crenulate bay beach from a transition state to static equilibrium subject to seasonal wave action.  相似文献   

18.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(1):87-101
Water wave refraction–diffraction within a porous medium on an undulating seabed is considered based on linear wave theory. Using the model of wave-induced flow within a porous medium and Galerkin eigenfunction expansions, refraction–diffraction equations for surface waves are derived. With these equations, the wave reflection from a porous structure on a sloping beach is investigated and numerical results of reflection coefficients are obtained. A comparison between the present results with those in the literature is made for a special case and the agreement is satisfactory. This structure can be viewed as an idealized model of rubble-mound seawalls along coastlines.  相似文献   

19.
For the study of the cross-shore wave-induced hydrodynamics in the swash zone, a numerical model is developed based on the one-dimensional non-linear shallow water (NSW) equations for prediction of hydrodynamic parameters in the swash zone. In order to evaluate the accuracy of the outputs of the numerical model, the model's predictions in terms of water surface elevations and cross-shore velocities, are compared to field data from full-scale experiments conducted on three sites with different beach slope; mild and steep, several bed particle sizes and under various incident wave conditions. The quantitative and qualitative comparison of the results of the numerical model and the full-scale data reveals that the model can generally predict many aspects of the flow in the surf and swash zone on both types of beach. The accuracy is adequate for application in a sediment transport study. Considering the time-history and probability distribution of water surface elevation, the model is generally more accurate on steep beaches than on the mild beach. The model can adequately simulate the dominant frequency across the beach and saturation of higher frequencies on both mild and steep beaches for various incident wave energy characteristics. With regard to the horizontal (cross-shore) velocity, the sawtooth shape of time-history and negative acceleration of water are well predicted by the model for both mild and steep beaches. Due to the uncertainties in maximum and minimum values of velocity data, clear judgement about the accuracy of the numerical model in this matter was not possible. However, the comparison of the minimum velocities (offshore direction) revealed that the application of friction factors below the range which is suggested by literature best match the data.  相似文献   

20.
A numerical model, coupling an analysis of beach groundwater flow with an analysis of swash wave motion over a uniform slope, is presented. Model calculations are performed to investigate the variations of swash-induced filtration flows across the beach face for different input parameters. Swash zone sediment transport under the influence of such filtration flow across the beach face is investigated through modification of effective weight of sediment particle and modification of swash boundary layer thickness. These effects are quantified based on a bed load transport model with a modified Shields parameter.  相似文献   

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