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1.
非线性海浪波面与波高的统计分布   总被引:10,自引:0,他引:10  
侯一筠 《海洋与湖沼》1990,21(5):425-432
采用风浪谱参量化的方法将随机波面无因次化,把波面与波高概率分布的各阶矩展开为谱宽度根方的幂级数,并由此导出波面与波高的统计分布。结果表明,在准确至零阶和一阶时,风浪分别退化为静止海面和单色波;在准确至二阶时,波面为线性模型,即波面服从正态分布;而在准确至三阶以上时,波面分布与Longuet-Higgins导出的非线性海浪模型的Gram-Charlier形分布具有同效益;并在准确至三阶时,导出一种新的波高分布,此分布函数以Longuet-Higgins等给出的Rayleigh分布作为二阶近似的特例。  相似文献   

2.
基于非线性Beta波面分布,采用变换ξ=lnH/γ,导出了一种仅用随机波面偏度λ3和尖度λ4两个参数表示的非线性有效波高概率分布——对数-Beta分布,发展了线性海浪有效波高的双参数对数-正态分布。对比结果表明,对数-Beta分布理论曲线与其对应的实测资料符合良好。推导出的对数-Beta分布的优点是,基本参数较少且便于确定,并可由随机波面高度资料直接推导出对应的有效波高概率密度函数。  相似文献   

3.
海浪波面包线的计算及其分布函数的再推导   总被引:2,自引:2,他引:2  
徐德伦  赵锰  楼顺里 《海洋学报》1989,11(4):411-416
本文借助Hilbert变换技巧给出一种由波面记录计算波面包线的准确且简便的方法,并在线性海浪理论范围内和不受窄谱限制的条件下严格地再导波面包线的分布函数,最后,还用导出的波面包线分布函数讨论了海浪的波高分布问题.  相似文献   

4.
偏态海浪过程的数值模拟   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
刘新安  黄培基 《海洋学报》1991,13(4):445-457
本文对Polge等人提出的“相关传递法”作了进一步数学分析,论证了其成立条件和适用范围.考虑波面偏度对谱形的影响,将模拟的靶谱加以改造,建立了“准相关传递法”.在同时考虑波剖面高度分布和谱两个条件下,对偏态海浪过程进行数值模拟.就模拟结果,分析了以Weibull分布拟合波高分布时,其波面偏度对波高分布中两参数的影响. 文中选用1980-1981年在胶州湾观测的波浪资料对“准相关传递法”加以检验和比较.结果表明:就波高分布、波面极大(小)值分布而言,准相关传递法明显优于传统的线性叠加法,比线性叠加法模拟的结果更接近于实测资料.  相似文献   

5.
许富祥 《海洋预报》2001,18(2):78-82
第二讲海浪要素及其特征 1 海浪要素不管海浪是风浪、涌浪、近岸浪或者是混合浪,它们在海上出现时,波高总是有高有低,波长和周期有长有短,因而在实际分析海浪状况时,主要由海浪要素描述.图1表示在一固定点利用海浪自记仪记录到的波面.横轴代表时间,纵轴代表波面相对静止水面的铅直位移.  相似文献   

6.
管长龙 《海洋与湖沼》1997,28(5):503-508
基于Longuet-Higgins提出的非线性随机海浪模型,在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩,导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布,该分布为非正态,其形式为截断的级数,而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响,波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。  相似文献   

7.
管长龙 《海洋与湖沼》1997,28(5):503-508
基于Longuet-Higgins提出的非线性随机海浪模型,在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩,导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布。该分布为非正态,其形式为截断的级数,而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响,波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。  相似文献   

8.
海浪波面的信息熵与海浪的谱宽度参量   总被引:6,自引:0,他引:6  
吴克俭  孙孚 《海洋与湖沼》1996,27(3):251-257
将信息熵(InformationEntropy)引入到浪波面的研究,通过谱的参量化,建立了谱宽度参量P,R,ε^2,v^2与它们对应的信息熵之间的关系,这些谱宽度参量,皆可引人到波面与波高的分布函数之中,并指出谱宽度参量具有熵的含义,给出了海浪波面熵的一种合理表示。  相似文献   

9.
变浅作用下浅水海浪谱的计算   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
深水海浪向近岸传播过程中,由于变浅作用,其波面高度分布,波谱都发生了变化。本文基于非线性系统的输出和输入间亦存在转换关系,通过波面高度分布函数建立了深水正态海浪过程作为输入和浅水偏态海浪过程作为输出之间的非线性转换关系,导出了深、浅水谱间的理论关系。在假定能通量不变的条件下,提出了一种由已知深水谱和波面偏度计算二维海浪变浅作用下的浅水谱的方法,并对其进行了讨论和检验。  相似文献   

10.
由模拟波面分析双峰谱型海浪的统计特征   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0       下载免费PDF全文
采用目前国际上最新的随机波分析方法,由协方差矩阵的循环嵌套技术,对美国国家浮标44008站2002年6月一典型的双峰海浪谱资料进行谱分析.以实测平均谱为靶谱,对随机波面进行模拟.得到模拟波面估计谱与实测谱极为相近,谱峰及谱峰频率都基本一致.说明利用模拟波面研究海浪具有代表性,它可以反映实测海浪的特征.利用实测海浪谱密度,统计波特征量的周期概率分布,得到理论周期概率密度与估计周期概率密度分布相符较好,且与模拟波面的波周期分布也较好的一致.利用Longuet-Higgins(1983)模型计算了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.得到变换高斯过程计算的波高与周期联合分布与实测情况基本相同,更好地描述了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.  相似文献   

11.
D.-S. Hur  K.-H. Lee  G.-S. Yeom   《Ocean Engineering》2008,35(17-18):1826-1841
In designing the coastal structures, the accurate estimation of the wave forces on them is of great importance. In this paper, the influences of the phase difference on wave pressure acting on a composite breakwater installed in the three-dimensional (3-D) wave field are studied numerically. We extend the earlier model [Hur, D.S., Mizutani, N., 2003. Coastal Engineering 47, 329–345] to simulate 3-D wave fields by introducing 3-D Navier–Stokes solver with the Smagorinsky's sub-grid scale (SGS) model. For the validation of the model, the wave field around a 3-D asymmetrical structure installed on a submerged breakwater, in which the complex wave deformations generate, is simulated, and the numerical solutions are compared to the experimental data reported by Hur, Mizutani, Kim [2004. Coastal Engineering (51, 407–420)]. The model is then adopted to investigate 3-D characteristics of wave pressure and force on a caisson of composite breakwater, and the numerical solutions were discussed with respect to the phase difference between harbor and seaward sides induced by the transmitted wave through the rubble mound or the diffraction. The numerical results reveal that wave forces acting on the composite breakwater are significantly different at each cross-section under influence of wave diffraction that is important parameter on 3-D wave interaction with coastal structures.  相似文献   

12.
利用特征函数展开法对台阶式变深水槽中推板式造波机造波问题进行了研究,建立了相应速度势和波面的解析表达式。与高阶边界元方法(HOBEM)数值结果进行了对比,验证了本解析解的正确性。通过数值试验,研究了台阶对入射波的影响,同时分析了造波板所在位置(上部台阶)水深、水槽工作区(下部台阶)水深、造波板运动周期和造波板水平位置等因素对生成波浪高度的影响。由此选择合适的造波板所在位置及水深来得到所需要的波浪高度,进而根据需要生成波浪的周期和波幅来反演造波板的运动。  相似文献   

13.
《Applied Ocean Research》2004,26(3-4):114-136
Two successive wave heights are modeled by a Gaussian copula, which is referred to as the Nataf model. Results with two initial distributions for the transformation are presented, the Næss model [Næss A. On the distribution of crest to trough wave heights. Ocean Engineering (1985);12(3):221–34] and a two-parameter Weibull distribution, where the latter is in best agreement with data. The results are compared with existing models. The Nataf model has also been used for modeling three successive wave heights.Results show that the Nataf transformation of three successive wave heights can be approximated by a first order autoregressive model. This means that the distribution of the wave height given the previous wave height is independent of the wave heights prior to the previous wave height. Thus, the joint distribution of three successive wave heights can be obtained by combining conditional bivariate distributions. The simulation of successive wave heights can be done directly without simulating the time series of the complete surface elevation.Successive wave periods with corresponding wave heights exceeding a certain threshold have also been studied. Results show that the distribution for successive wave periods when the corresponding wave heights exceed the root-mean-square value of the wave heights, can be approximated by a multivariate Gaussian distribution.The theoretical distributions are compared with observed wave data obtained from field measurements in the central North Sea and in the Japan Sea, with laboratory data and numerical simulations.  相似文献   

14.
We study the interactions between a non-breaking solitary wave and a submerged permeable breakwater experimentally and numerically. The particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique is employed to measure instantaneous free surface displacements and velocity fields in the vicinity of a porous dike. The porous medium, consisting of uniform glass spheres, is mounted on the seafloor. Due to the limited size of each field of view (FOV) for high spatial resolution purposes, four FOVs are set in order to form a continuous flow field around the structure. Quantitative mean properties are obtained by ensemble averaging 30 repeated instantaneous measurements. The Reynolds decomposition method is then adopted to separate the velocity fluctuations for each trial to estimate the turbulent kinetic energy. In addition, a highly accurate two-dimensional model with the volume of fluid interface tracking technique is used to simulate an idealized volume-averaged porous medium. The model is based on the Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations coupled with the non-linear kε turbulence closure solver. Comparisons are performed between measurements and numerical results for the time histories of the free surface elevation recorded by wave gauges and the spatial distributions of free surface displacement with the corresponding velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around the permeable object imaged by the PIV system. Fairly good agreements are obtained. It is found that the measured and modeled turbulent intensities on the weather side are much larger than those on the lee side of the object, and that the magnitude of the turbulent intensity increases with increasing wave height of a solitary wave at a constant water depth. The verified numerical model is then used to estimate the energy reflection, transmission and dissipation using the energy integral method by varying the aspect ratio and the grain size of the permeable obstacle.  相似文献   

15.
This paper considers the evolution of a spatially-localized divergent Rossby wave field near the depth jump. If the jump magnitude is comparable to the depth, Rossby waves are fully reflected and a double Kelvin wave is then generated. The Rossby waves and the double Kelvin wave are described by the first- and zero-approximation fields of the asymptotic expansion, respectively. Over the characteristic Rossby wave period, the level elevation produced by the double Kelvin wave spreads over an extensive area, theraby making up for the change in the total fluid mass of the Rossby waves.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.  相似文献   

16.
Second-Order Wave Diffraction Around 3-D Bodies by A Time-Domain Method   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:1  
BAI  Wei 《中国海洋工程》2001,(1):73-84
A time-domain method is applied to simulate nonlinear wave diffraction around a surface piercing 3-D arbitrary body. The method involves the application of Taylor series expansions and the use of perturbation procedure to establish the corresponding boundary value problems with respect to a time-independent fluid domain. A boundary element method based on B-spline expansion is used to calculate the wave field at each time step, and the free surface boundary condition is satisfied to the second order of wave steepness by a numerical integration in time. An artificial damping layer is adopted on the free surface for the removal of wave reflection from the outer boundary. As an illustration, the method is used to compute the second-order wave forces and run-up on a surface-piercing circular cylinder. The present method is found to be accurate, computationally efficient, and numerically stable.  相似文献   

17.
Numerical Wave Channel with Absorbing Wave-Maker   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
The numerical wave channel has been developed based on the volume of fluid method (VOF) in conjunction with the Navier-Stokes equations. The absorbing wave-maker boundary on the left side of the channel is presented by prescribing velocity reference to linear wave-maker theory. The principle of which is that the numerical wave-maker is designed to move in a way that generates the required incident wave and cancels out any reflected wave that reach it at the same time. On the right side of the channel, the open boundary is set to permit incident waves to be transmitted freely. The parametric studies have been carried out at a range of ratios of water depth to wave length d/ L from 0.124 to 0.219, with wave height in the front of paddle/water depth ratio (H0 / d) from 0.1 to 0.3. Wave height, wave pressure distribution along the channel and velocity field are obtained for both open boundary condition and reflective boundary condition at the other end of the channel. For a reflective case, it is shown that  相似文献   

18.
The statistical distribution of wave crest characteristics such as crest length, crest height, joint crest height and length are analyzed based on numerical simulation of 3-D random waves. The effects of directional functions and wave crest defining methods on crest characteristics are also studied.The results show that wave crests are no longer uniform and continuous in directional wave field; the distribution of crest length is obviously influenced by the directional function; the statistics of crest characteristics obtained by the two different methods are almost the same.  相似文献   

19.
本文基于FVCOM-SWAVE耦合模型,以双台风"苏拉"和"达维"的台风过程为例,研究了台风过程中海浪和海温的变化,通过与高度计和Argo资料的对比,发现耦合模型能较准确的模拟出有效波高和海表面温度。由于双台风风场相互作用,风场结构和最大风速位置发生改变,影响着有效波高的分布,台风"苏拉"产生的最大有效波高位于台风后侧。海表面温度的降低与风场、浪场分布密切相关,强风强浪处的降温现象更明显,"苏拉"产生的降温区域位于路径附近,"达维"产生的降温区域位于路径右侧。台风对海表面温度的降低与初始的混合层厚度、温跃层强度存在相关性,具体表现为初始的混合层越薄、温跃层强度越大,降温越明显。  相似文献   

20.
The interaction between structure and wave is a typical phenomenon in naval architecture and ocean engineering. In this paper, numerical simulation is carried out to study the interaction between a two-dimensional submerged, fixed,horizontal rigid plate and solitary wave with our in-house meshless particle CFD solver MLParticle-SJTU. First, the in-house CFD solver is verified by experimental results conducted at the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology. During the verification, the plate is submerged under water and the solitary wave with a given amplitude is generated by a piston-type wave maker. Free surface elevation of the wave and the pressure impacting on the plate is recorded and compared with experimental data respectively. The predicted pressure and surface elevation agree well with the experimental results. Then in order to further investigate factors affecting wave-structure interaction, wave height, submerged depth and plate length are analyzed.  相似文献   

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