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1.
准确预测波浪作用下沿岸输沙率是沙质海岸研究领域的重要科学问题。根据数十年来国内外沿岸输沙率公式的研究进展，按研究方法对各项成果进行分类，并兼顾时间逻辑，回顾了各研究方法的发展历程及其代表性成果。对各项成果的理论基础、考虑因素、资料来源等方面进行了探讨，并采用现场原型沙、室内原型沙和室内轻质沙等实测资料，对国内外常用公式的预测准确性进行了检验。结果表明，孙林云公式与各项实测资料的吻合程度最高，在众多沿岸输沙率公式中具有明显的先进性。在此基础上，对未来可进一步深化研究的方向作出了展望。 相似文献
2.
海岸性质的界定,是港口航道减淤措施合理布置的关键。通过地形资料和现场测量资料对京唐港区的水下地形地貌特征、泥沙特性以及沿岸输沙特点等进行了分析研究。研究结果表明,京唐港区泥沙中值粒径大于0.06 mm、沉积物中黏土含量小于15%、岸滩坡度通常大于1/1 000;泥沙运动具有沿岸泥沙运动特征,但与沙质海岸又有所不同,存在复合沿岸输沙,尤其在风暴潮期间,大浪产生的破波沿岸流与风暴潮潮流叠加,产生更为强烈的沿岸输沙能力。在粉沙质海岸定义基础上,将京唐港区海岸界定为细沙粉沙质海岸。在京唐港区航道防波挡沙堤布置上考虑复合沿岸输沙,取得良好效果。 相似文献
3.
沙质海岸沿岸输沙率的数值模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
为了较为准确地计算沙质海岸沿岸输沙率,基于网格模型建立沙质海岸波浪的传播变化模型,根据求得的波高和波向分布特征,并考虑辐射应力等,计算波生流的分布.并在此基础上通过波浪最大底部轨道速度和沿岸流的分布特点,建立估算破波带内各网格单元上沿岸输沙率的分布模型. 相似文献
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鉴于影响沙质海岸沿岸输沙量的水文气象因素具有明显的年际变化,因此,沿岸输沙量也可视为具有年际变化的随机变量。本文应用极值分布理论,研究了多年输沙总量(海岸工程建筑物在不同的使用期内可能拦沙总量)的计算方法问题,提出了推算建筑物使用年限内不同危险率的拦沙总量计算公式,以及最不利的拦沙总量计算公式,并以毛里塔尼亚的努瓦克肖特海岸的资料进行了实例计算。 相似文献
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在沙质海岸中,沿岸输沙率的正确估算,对于港口和海岸工程的建设,都有着重要的意义。自丹麦学者彼得逊(Munch Petersen 1933)提出第一个沿岸输沙率计算公式以来,已近半个世纪,但因为沿岸输沙牵涉到海洋动力要素与海岸沉积物(泥沙)的相互作用问题,是较为复杂的海-岩相关现象,现场同步观测又较为困难,尽管各国学者从不同角度己提出了几十个不同的计算公式,有的且已列入手册、规范,但都有一定的限制,至今还没有公认的“公”式。美国海岸研究中心的经验表明,在缺乏现场实测资料的情况下,应用波浪能流法推算沿岸输沙率是较为切实可行的。 相似文献
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任意水深变化水域非线性波数值模拟 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
为了较为准确地计算沙质海岸沿岸输沙率,基于网格模型建立沙质海岸波浪的传播变化模型,根据求得的波高和波向分布特征,并考虑辐射应力等,计算波生流的分布。并在此基础上通过波浪最大底部轨道速度和沿岸流的分布特点,建立估算破波带内各网格单元上沿岸输沙率的分布模型。 相似文献
8.
毛里塔尼亚友谊港处于典型的强沿岸输沙型沙质海岸,年平均沿岸输沙量为90×10~4~100×10~4m~3。由于防波堤工程对上游沿岸输沙的拦截,港区岸线冲淤变化强烈。根据实测资料分析,采用基于"一线理论"的岸线演变数学模型,对友谊港上下游岸线变化作了整体验证,统筹分析了港口工程对上游淤积和下游冲刷的影响。在此基础上,进一步预测了友谊港未来20年的岸线变化情况。结果表明,在港区现有建筑物布置情况下,下游岸线的大幅冲刷将危及陆域土堤的安全,是友谊港未来防护的重点之一。若考虑每隔一定年限在下游增建丁坝工程,形成丁坝群护岸工程,可延长下游岸线的冲刷防护范围,减小对陆域建筑物的威胁。 相似文献
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沙质海岸在斜向波浪作用下将产生沿岸水流及沿岸输沙。因此,若在沿海岸修筑沿岸建筑物必然会破坏该地区的输沙动态平衡,发生明显的局部岸滩变形。本文应用Pelnard-Considere单线理论模式,通过物理模型试验等方法确定了有关计算参数,对毛里塔尼亚的努瓦克肖特港突堤上游的淤积岸线及淤积年限进行了计算,其结果可供港口建设等部门参考。 相似文献
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本文设计彩沙示踪法于厦大滨海沙滩东段进行试验 ,取得了沙粒运动方向、最大运移速度、扩散范围、沿岸输沙率及粒度分异运移状态等定量数据 ,弥补了以往示踪法难以定量分析的缺陷。结果表明 :调查期间 ,厦大滨海沙滩东段沙粒运动是构成厦门岛南岸岸滩在偏东向波浪作用下形成的西南向沿岸漂沙之一个环节 :沙粒大体平行岸线向北运动 ;沙粒沿岸最大运移速度为 2 0 0m/d ;经一个潮周期 ,沙粒向两侧的最大横向扩散距离为 2 0m ,最大垂直扩散深度达 7cm ;岸滩横断面沿岸输沙率为 42 5t/d ;在该岸段沿岸漂沙中 ,粗粒沙偏向低潮带一侧 ,而细粒沙偏向高潮带。 相似文献
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A field experiment was carried out on a mesotidal reflective beach to relate longshore sand transport rates to wave measurements
in medium-energy conditions (H
rms
=0.6 m; T
m
=6.5 sec; α=20°). Dispersion of fluorescent sand tracers was analyzed using the spatial integration method (SIM). The measured
sand transport rate was three times larger than the prediction computed using the longshore wave power approach, while the
K factor was determined empirically as 2.32. The study concluded that there is a need to calibrate bulk longshore transport
predictors before applying them to steep gradient slopes under plunging waves.
Received: 16 May 1997 / Revision received: 20 November 1997 相似文献
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A mathematical model of spit growth and barrier elongation adjacent to an inlet (of arbitrary width), supplied by sediment coming from longshore sediment transport, was developed based on the spit growth model proposed by Kraus (1999). The fundamental governing equation is the conservation equation for sand, where the width of the spit is assumed constant during growth. The portion of the longshore sediment transport feeding the spit has been estimated based on the ratio between the depth of the inlet channel and the depth of active longshore transport. Sediment transport from the channel due to the inlet flow, as well as other sinks of sand (e.g., dredging), are taken into account. Measured data on spit elongation at Fire Island Inlet, United States, and at Badreveln Spit, Sweden, were used to validate the model. The simulated results agree well with the measured data at both study sites, where spit growth at Fire Island was restricted by the inlet flow and the growth at Badreveln Spit was unrestricted. The model calculation for Fire Island Inlet indicates that the dredging to maintain channel navigation is the major reason for the stable period observed from 1954 to 1994 at the Fire Island barrier. The average annual net longshore transport rate at the eastern side of the Fire Island inlet obtained in this study was about 220,000 m3/yr, of which approximately 165,000 m3/yr (75% of the net longshore transport) is deposited in the inlet feeding the spit growth, whereas the remaining portion (25%) is bypassed downdrift through the ebb shoal complex. 相似文献
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J. Hardisty 《Geo-Marine Letters》1988,8(1):35-39
Formulae which predict the longshore transport of sand under the action of oblique waves are shown to be very sensitive to the angle of incidence of the waves. A simple, computerized wave recorder and pattern-matching technique is described which measures the angle of incidence by determining the phase difference between signals from a pair of closely spaced sensors. Data from field trials suggest that a resolution of better than 4° is possible with this system, but problems of mixed frequency waves remain in both the longshore transport functions and the field equipment. 相似文献
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The south-western shoreline along the entrance channel inside the Port of Richards Bay has experienced continued erosion. Four groynes were constructed to stabilise the shoreline. Monitoring of shoreline evolution provided valuable data on the accretion adjacent to two of the groynes and on the sediment transport rates at these groynes. Tides, beach slopes, winds, wave climate, current regime, and sand grain sizes were documented. The one site is “moderately protected” from wave action while the other is “protected” according to the Wiegel [Wiegel, R. L. (1964). Oceanographical engineering. Prentice Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ.] classification. The shoreline accreted progressively at the two groynes at 0.065 m/day and 0.021 m/day respectively. The shorelines accreted right up to the most seaward extremity of the groynes. Equilibrium shorelines were reached within about 3.5 years to 4 years, which compare well with other sites around the world. The mean wave incidence angle is large and was found to be about 22°. The median sand grain sizes were 0.33 mm and 0.37 mm. The groynes acted as total traps, the beach surveys were extended to an adequate depth, and cross-shore sediment transport did not cause appreciable net sand losses into the entrance channel. The net longshore transport rate along the study area, which is north-westbound, is only slightly lower than the gross longshore transport. The actual net longshore transport rates are 18 000 m3/year and 4 600 m3/year respectively at the two groynes. A rocky area limits the availability of sand at one groyne. There is fair agreement between the predicted and measured longshore transport rates at the other groyne. 相似文献
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The continental margin of northern Sinai and Israel, up to Haifa Bay, is the northeastern limb of the submarine Nile Delta Cone. It is made up predominantly of clastics from the Nile and its predecessors. The continental shelf and coastal plain of Israel are built of a series of shore-parallel ridges composed of carbonate-cemented quartz sandstone (locally named kurkar), a lithification product of windblown sands that were piled up into dunes during the Pleistocene. The drop in global sea level and regression during the last glacial period exposed the continental shelf to subaerial erosion and created a widespread regional erosional unconformity which is expressed as a prominent seismic reflector at the top of the kurkar layers. The subsequent Holocene transgression abraded much of the westernmost kurkar ridges, drowned their cores, and covered the previous lowstand deposits with marine sands, which were in turn covered by a sequence of sub-Recent clayey silts. The Mediterranean coasts of Sinai and Israel are part of the Nile littoral cell. Since the building of the Aswan dams the sand supplied to Israel's coastal system is derived mainly from erosion of the Nile Delta and from sands offshore Egypt that are stirred up by storm waves. The sands are transported by longshore and offshore currents along the coasts of northern Sinai and Israel. Their volume gradually declines northward with distance from their Nile source. The longshore transport terminates in Haifa Bay where some sand is trapped, and the test escapes to deeper water by bottom currents and through submarine canyons, thus denying Nile-derived sand supply to the 40-km-long 'Akko-Rosh Haniqra shelf. The sand balance along Israel's coastal zone is a product of natural processes and human intervention. Losses due to the outgoing longshore transport, seaward escape, and landward wind transport exceed the natural gains from the incoming longshore transport and the abrasion of the coastal cliffs. The deficit is aggravated by the construction of (1) seaward-projecting structures that trap sands on the upstream side and (2) offshore detached breakwaters that trap sands between themselves and the coast. The negative sand balance is manifested by the removal of sand from the seabed and the consequent exposure of archaeological remains that were hitherto protected by it. The sediments that escape seaward from the longshore transport system form a 2.5- to 4-km-wide sandy apron adjacent to the shore that extends to where the water is 30 - 40 m deep. The apron's slope (0.5 - 0.8) is steeper than the theoretical equilibrium slope for the median grain-size diameter in this zone (0.1 - 0.3 mm). The beach sands and the apron's surficial sands are well sorted. Their grain size decreases with distance from shore, from 0.2 - 0.3 mm nearshore to 0.11 - 0.16 mm by the drowned ridge. The coarse-grained fraction consists of skeletal debris (commonly 5 - 12% carbonate matter) and wave-milled kurkar grains (locally named zifzif). In deeper water, the basal sands underlying the fine-grained sediment cover consist of 1- to 30-cm layers whose composition ranges from silty sands to various types of sands (fine, medium, coarse, and gravelly) to zifzif. For the most part, they contain large amounts of skeletal debris (20 - 60%) and small fragments of kurkar. Two types of kurkar rock were encountered offshore: a well-sorted, fine- to medium-grained (0.074 - 0.300 mm) lithified dune sand with variable amounts of carbonate cement, ranging from hard rock of low permeability to loose sand; and a porous sandstone made up predominantly of algal grains and skeletal debris (calcarenite). 相似文献
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Mobile sand deposits and shoreface sediment dynamics in the inner German Bight (North Sea) 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper presents a conceptual model for the net bedload transport regime on the shoreface of the German Bight. The model is based on the spatial distribution of the surficial sediment cover (North Sea sands) which is identical to the uppermost layer in the seismic recordings. Sediment thickness was measured using very high resolution seismic profiling (chirp sonar) and vibrocoring. The three-dimensional sediment distribution was estimated using geostatistical methods (cokriging). The results demonstrate a longshore sand distribution with three distinct zones. In Zone 1 (0–10 m water depth) the sediments attain their maximum thickness of 10±2.5 m. Between 10 and 15 m water depth a relatively thin sand layer of 0.4–1.5 m is observed within Zone 2. The seaward adjacent Zone 3 (15–20 m water depth) is characterized by an averaged sand thickness of 2–3 m with local maxima of 5–6 m. Further offshore, the sand layer decreases to about 1–2 m thickness. The net bedload transport directions inferred from this sediment zonation comprise a longshore sediment bypassing in Zone 1 which results in a substantial sediment supply to the innermost part of the German Bight due to bedload convergence. Shore-normal bedload transport shifts sand to and fro across the coastal profile although the net directional transport is seawards. This results in sediment depletion between the 10 and 15 m-isobaths (Zone 2) and an adjacent sediment accumulation in deeper waters (Zone 3). 相似文献
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《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(11-12):1351-1375
Sorting of sediment on a beach under wave action takes several forms. Stratified layers of finer and coarser sediment, which depend on wave climate, grain size and beach slope are formed. This complex problem can be simplified by defining the cross-shore and longshore sorting according to the angle between the breaking wave and the coast. In the present study, longshore distribution of sediment as well as corresponding beach profiles was measured in a wave basin. Three-dimensional hydraulic model experiments were performed with regular waves. Eighteen sets of experiments performed in longshore sorting mechanism using two different sand beds. The sorting of the bed material and the formation of armour coats along the beach were defined by grain size distributions and dimensionless parameters for sandy beaches.The rate of sediment transport with grain size sorting was measured in a wave basin. A method introduced sorting process was presented in this study. The sediment rate based on sorting mechanism was also discussed with known methods. It has been found that the non-uniformity of the grain size and hence sorting of the beaches play a very important role in the sand transport due to wave motion in a similar way to the case of steady flow in alluvial channels. 相似文献