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多方向不规则波传播变形数值模拟 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1
在推广的缓坡方程数学模型基础上建立了多方向不规则波数学模型，综合考虑了波浪折射、绕射、反射、底摩擦和风能输入等因素。基于线性波浪理论，将波浪方向谱在频率和方向上按等能量分割法离散后，分别计算各组成波的传播变形，再计算合成波要素。缓坡方程数学模型采用改进的ADI法求解，计算效率高，稳定性好。采用椭圆形浅滩不规则波模型试验结果和单突堤不规则波绕射理论解对数学模型进行了验证，数值模拟结果和试验值及理论解符合良好。利用该模型进行了某港港内波浪折射、绕射和反射的联合数值模拟，给出了合理的港内波高分布。 相似文献
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风浪方向分布模式的比较 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
本文对目前常用的几种风浪方向分布模式进行了分析对比，进而根据由浪高仪阵列和ＥＮＤＥＣＯ９５６测波浮标在我国各海区测得的风浪方向谱，从波能方向分布、方向累积分布、方向分布的峰值和标准差四个方面，与光易恒、Ｈａｓｓｅｌｍａｎｎ和Ｄｏｎｅｌａｎ等分别由观测得到的经验方向分布以及文圣常等由解析方法得到的风浪方向谱进行了比较，结果表明：Ｄｏｎｅｌａｎ分布与实测结果比较一致，文圣常谱也较接近。此外，笔者在渤海由仪器阵列实测方向谱拟合得到的方向分布（改进的光易模式）与各地实测资料也比较符合。 相似文献
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方向分布对波浪谱在地形水流影响下折射的影响 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
本文计算分析了 Pierson-Moskowitz 谱、JONSWAP 谱与 Bretschnei—der-光易谱在不同地形、水流与主波方向影响下的折射在是否计及波谱能量的方向分布的影响,计算表明波能的方向分布对于谱特征波高值及波能传播的平均方向都有不可忽视的影响。 相似文献
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本文根据二波向线间波浪作用通量守恒的原则,提出了在斜向流作用下,波浪频谱折射的分析方法和其计算程序WCINDS1,计算表明,谱分析法得出的结果较规则波分析法更为合理,在斜向流作用下频率各异的组成波,折射后的方向是不同的,此时可以谱峰频的方向角作为整个谱平均方向角的代表值. 相似文献
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非线性效应对浅水水波变形的影响 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
本文采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程建立了一个考虑非线性作用的浅水水波变形数值模型，模型中采用Ｂａｔｔｊｅｓ关系与波数矢量无旋，波能守恒方程一起来求解波浪在浅水中变形的波浪要素，在波能守恒方程中考虑了底摩擦的影响。利用本文提出的数值模型对一个斜坡浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象进行了验证，验证计算中用一个非线性经验弥散关系近似浅水水波变形的非线性效应并与用线性弥散关系的计算结果进行了比较，结果说明使用非线性 相似文献
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Coastal inundation associated with extreme sea levels is the main factor which leads to the loss of life and property whenever a severe tropical cyclonic storm hits the Indian coasts. The Andhra and Orissa coasts are most vulnerable for coastal inundation due to extreme rise in sea levels associated with tropical cyclones. Loss of life may be minimized if extreme sea levels and associated coastal flooding is predicted well in advance. Keeping this in view, location specific coastal inundation models are developed and applied for the Andhra and Orissa coasts of India. Several numerical experiments are carried out using the data of past severe cyclones that struck these regions. The simulated inland inundation distances are found to be in general agreement with the reported flooding. 相似文献
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Hoi-Soo Jung Kap-Sik Jeong Yong-Shik Chu Sung-Hyun Park Ki-Hyune Kim 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2001,19(3):181-195
Grain size and water content in box-core sediments from the Clarion-Clipperton fracture zone (C-C zone) in the northeast equatorial Pacific were analyzed in detail to understand the downcore variations across a hiatus between Quaternary and Tertiary layers. Grain-size distributions in the topmost core sediments show two modes: a coarse mode (peaked at 50 μm) and a fine mode (at 2-25 μm). The coarse mode disappears gradually with depth accompanied by the dissolution of siliceous fossil tests, whereas the fine mode coarsens due to the formation of authigenic minerals. Water content increases abruptly across a color boundary between an upper pale brown layer and a lower dark brown layer that is the hiatus between Quaternary and Tertiary layers. Abundant smectites and microvoid molds, which are created by the prolonged fossil dissolution in the underlying sediment, are attributed for the abrupt downcore variation of water content. Overall variations in grain size and water content in the topmost core sediments in the western C-C zone are possibly constrained by the dissolution of biogenic siliceous fossils. Variations in geotechnical properties related to these changes must be considered in the design of nodule collectors. 相似文献
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Shigehisa Nakamura 《Marine Geodesy》2001,24(1):27-33
This article concerns an interrelation between the sea levels and the western boundary flow near a tectonic boundary in a local zone in the Northwestern Pacific. In this zone, sea level variations at stations located on the coast facing the Pacific are studied to find the interrelation between variations of the Kurosio flow as an index of the distance of the flow axis off a specific coast. The result is discussed after data processing of the monthly means of the sea levels, and a notice is taken of variations caused by active crustal upheavals during a seismic event, a local earthquake. 相似文献
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This study tests the hypothesis that the in situ void ratio of surficial marine sediments may be predicted from shear wave velocity-depth data with a reliability equal to that of other methods currently available. Shear wave velocity is fundamentally controlled by the number of grain-to-grain contacts per unit volume of material and by the effective stress across those contacts. In this study, three previously established empirical formulae are used to predict void ratio from velocity-depth data. Field data were acquired along a transect off the northern Californian coast across which water depth increased from 35 to 70 m and seafloor sediment type varied from sand to silty-sand, respectively. A towed seafloor sled device was used to collect shear wave refraction data, and a marked, systematic decrease in velocity was observed along the line, ranging from 35-70 m/s for the coarse, near-shore material to 25-40 m/s for the finer, offshore deposits. Void ratios predicted from these velocities were compared with data measured directly from box-core samples. Of the formulae used for prediction, two agree remarkably well with the control data. Both predicted and control values increase from 0.6-0.8 for the sandy material to 1.1-1.5 for the silty-sand. Thus, this study does not disprove the hypothesis set and demonstrates the potential of field shear wave velocity-depth data as a means of delineating spatial variation in void ratio for surficial marine sediments in a remote, nondestructive manner. 相似文献
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Particulate samples were collected from the Changjiang river system during a flood period, in May 1997, and POC, stable isotope and lipids associated with particles were examined. Results showed the decrease (0.84% ～ 1.88%) of organic carbon content from the upper reaches to the estuary.δ13C values of particulate organic carbon was in the range of -24.9×10-3 to -26.6×10-3, which were close to the isotopic signature of continental C3 vegetation. Total particulate n-alkanes concentrations varied from 1.4 to 10.1μg/dm3,or from 23.7 to 107μg/g of total suspended matter. Fatty acids were present in all the samples, from 1.4 to 5.4μg/dm3, with saturated and unsaturated straight-chain and branched compounds in the carbon number range from C12 to C30. Both δ13C and the ratio of carbon content to nitrogen content indicate the predominance of terrestrial inputs (soil organic matter) among the particles. The biomarker approach has been used to identify the relative portion of terrigenous and autochthonous fraction in the particulate samples. The distribution of fatty acids suggests a striking phytoplanktonic and microbial signal in most particle samples. The terrestrial alkanes are used to estimate the contribution of terrestrial inputs along the mainstream. 相似文献
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Andrzej Chybicki 《Marine Geodesy》2018,41(1):1-23
Current trends of development of satellite derived bathymetry (SDB) models rely on applying calibration techniques including analytical approaches, neuro-fuzzy systems, regression optimization and others. In most of the cases, the SDB models are calibrated and verified for test sites, that provide favorable conditions for the remote derivation of bathymetry such as high water clarity, homogenous bottom type, low amount of sediment in the water and other factors. In this paper, a novel 3-dimensional geographical weighted regression (3GWR) SDB technique is presented, it binds together methods already presented in other studies, the geographically weighted local regression (GWR) model, with depth dependent inverse optimization. The proposed SDB model was calibrated and verified on a relatively difficult test site of the South Baltic near-shore areas with the use of multispectral observations acquired by a recently launched Sentinel-2 satellite observation system. By conducted experiments, it was shown that the proposed SDB model is capable of obtaining satisfactory results of RMSE ranging from 0.88 to 1.23[m] depending on the observation and can derive bathymetry for depths up to 12m. It was also shown, that the proposed approach may be used operationally, for instance, in the continuous assessment of temporal bathymetry changes, for areas important in the context of ensuring local maritime safety. 相似文献
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N. H. Khadge 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2000,18(3):251-258
As a part of the environmental impact assessment studies, geotechnical properties of sediments were determined in the Central Indian Basin. The undrained shear strength and index properties of the siliceous sediments were determined on 20 box cores of uniform dimension collected from various locations in five preselected sites. The maximum core length encountered was 41 cm and most of the sediments were siliceous oozes consisting of radiolarian or diatomaceous tests. The shear strength measurements revealed that surface sediments deposited in recent times (0-10 cm) have a shear strength of 0-1 kPa; this value increases with depth, reaching 10 kPa at 40 cm deep. Older sediments have greater strength because of compaction. Water content varies in the wide range of 312-577% and decreases with depth. The clay minerals such as smectite and illite are dominant and show some control over water content. Wet density, specific gravity, and porosity do not indicate any notable variation with depth, thereby indicating a uniform, slow rate of sedimentation. The average porosity of sediments is 90.2%, specific gravity 2.18, and wet bulk density 1.12 g/cm 3 . Sediments exhibit medium to high plasticity characteristics, with the average plasticity index varying between 105% and 136%. Preliminary studies on postdisturbance samples showed an increase in natural water content and a decrease in undrained shear strength of sediments in the top 10- to 15-cm layer. 相似文献
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Extreme sea levels associated with severe cyclonic storms are common occurrences along the east coast of India. The coastal districts of Orissa have experienced major surges in the past. The recent Paradip super cyclone is one of the most severe cyclones, causing extensive damage to property and loss of lives. Extreme sea levels are major causes for coastal flooding in this region. Damages can be minimized if the extreme sea levels are forecast well in advance. In the present study, we develop a location specific, fine resolution model for the Orissa coast on the lines similar to that of IIT-D storm surge model (Dube et al. 1994). The model runs on a personal computer. The bathymetry for the model is extracted from very fine resolution naval hydrographic charts for the region extending from the south of Orissa to south of West Bengal. A simple drying scheme has also been included in the model in order to avoid the exposure of land near the coast due to strong negative sea surface elevations. An attempt was made in this study to simulate extreme sea levels along the Orissa coast using the data of past severe cyclones. The model results reported in the present study are in good agreement with available observations or estimates. 相似文献
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An Improved Calibration of Satellite Altimetric Heights Using Tide Gauge Sea Levels with Adjustment for Land Motion 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Gary T. Mitchum 《Marine Geodesy》2000,23(3):145-166
Several major improvements to an existing method for calibrating satellite altimeters using tide gauge data are described. The calibration is in the sense of monitoring and correcting temporal drift in the altimetric time series, which is essential in efforts to use the altimetric data for especially demanding applications. Examples include the determination of the rate of change of global mean sea level and the study of the relatively subtle, but climatically important, decadal variations in basin scale sea levels. The improvements are to the method described by Mitchum (1998a), and the modifications are of two basic types. First, since the method depends on the cancellation of true ocean signals by differencing the altimetric data from the tide gauge sea level time series, improvements are made that produce a more complete removal of the ocean signals that comprise the noise for the altimetric drift estimation problem. Second, a major error source in the tide gauge data, namely land motion, is explicitly addressed and corrections are developed that incorporate space-based geodetic data (continuous GPS and DORIS measurements). The long-term solution, having such geodetic measurements available at all the tide gauges, is not yet a reality, so an interim solution is developed. The improved method is applied to the TOPEX altimetric data. The Side A data (August 1992?February 1999) are found to have a linear drift component of 0.55 + / 0.39 mm/yr, but there is also a significant quadratic component to the drift that is presently unexplained. The TOPEX Side B altimeter is estimated to be biased by 7.0 + / 0.7 mm relative to the Side A altimeter based on an analysis of the first 350 days of Side B data. 相似文献
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J. N. Pattan Ch. M. Rao A. A. Migdisov S. Colley N. C. Higgs L. Demidenko 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2001,19(3):155-165
The rare earth element (REE) distribution in nine deep-sea ferromanganese nodules and their associated siliceous sediments from the Central Indian Ocean Basin (CIOB) have been studied to elucidate the REE relationship among them. Total REE concentration varies from 398-928 ppm in the nodules and 137-235 ppm in the associated sediments, suggesting two- to four-fold enrichment in the nodules compared to associated sediments. REE of nodules and their associated sediments show a positive correlation, suggesting REE are supplied from a common source such as seawater. The positive correlation between REE of nodules and sediments from the CIOB is contrary to the competitive scavenging of REE between nodules and sediment in the equatorial Pacific Ocean. REEs in the nodules are carried by Fe, P, and Ti, whereas in the sediment they are carried by P and Mn phases. A similar REE fractionation pattern with middle REE enrichment over heavy and light REE in both the nodules and their associated sediment suggest fractionation is independent of REE abundance and their carrier phases. 相似文献