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1.
用计算方法得到浅海波浪谱,对于浅水海域上建筑物的设计计算及动力分析都具有极其重要的意义。当波浪传播时,由于水深变浅、海底摩擦及反射、内部紊动摩擦、折射与海底渗透等因素的影响,波浪能量要有所变化。但此过程极其复杂。国内外学者对此作了大量研究工作,尚未得到一个较为统一的计算方法。本文将从波能流守恒这一基本原理出发,首先通过计算得到各组成波的浅水变形,然后再利用波浪叠加法得到波浪的浅水谱。文中还对能量损失项的计算采用了几种不同的算法,并把各计算值与试验结果进行了比较分析,提出了一些初步看法与结论,可供计算时参考应用。 相似文献
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基于二阶斯托克斯波理论推导了辐射应力的垂向分布表达式,通过算例讨论了辐射应力在深水和有限水深条件下的垂向分布规律,并与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力进行了比较.结果表明,在波浪非线性不强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力表达式计算结果接近;而当水深较浅波浪非线性较强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力在近表面处明显大于基于微幅波理论的辐射应力.采用二阶斯托克斯波理论推导的波浪辐射应力更为合理地反映了波浪非线性效应. 相似文献
3.
波浪谱分析是研究随机波浪、构建波浪模型、计算海浪要素的主要方法,也是海洋工程设计、波浪能应用研究等的重要依据。目前对于现场波浪数据的获取仅局限于波浪特征参数和部分频段数据,为了获取准确有效的波浪谱信息,提出微机电系统(Micro-Electro-Mechanical System,MEMS)和全球定位系统(Global Positioning System,GPS)测波传感器相结合的波浪谱数据获取方法以及利用北斗短报文数据传输的通信方式。综合考虑波浪谱数据特点和北斗短报文通信能力,波浪谱数据选用半精度数据类型编码并设计了相应的数据传输格式。现场海试结果表明该方法对于全波谱数据计算和传输较为准确,有效波高、峰值周期、平均波向和方向扩展的准确率相比于单独GPS传感器计算结果分别提升了12.5%(0.1m)、5%(0.2s)、8%(13°)和13%(8°),为海浪观测资料获取提供了新方法和新思路,可以进一步满足海洋多要素研究和对完整频谱分析的实际应用需求。 相似文献
4.
粤东后江湾近岸长重力波特征分析 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用粤东后江湾近岸有限水深(包括碎波带)4个测点的压力波数据,依据波谱分析方法对4个测点的入射波有效波高、长重力有效波高、有效波陡、波面谱、谱宽度和谱尖度参量进行了统计和对比分析.分析认为,在近岸有限水深条件下,波浪由近岸(相对水深0.201)到破、碎波带运动过程中,(1)长重力波有效波高呈增大趋势,至破、碎波带位置增幅最为明显;(2)入射波有效波高至破、碎波带区域达到最大,在破波带外有限水深区域呈现先增大后减小的变化趋势;(3)有效波陡、谱宽度参数呈增大趋势;(4)波浪内部能量向高、低频段发生转移,至破、碎波带区域转移程度最为明显,在峰值频率的高、低频段形成谱峰;长重力波谱强度在破、碎波带区域明显高于对应有限水深测点. 相似文献
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6.
潜堤对波浪传播变形的物理模型试验研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
以不可渗透光滑潜堤为研究对象,基于波浪水槽试验,分析了规则波和不规则波通过淹没梯形潜堤时的波浪外部形态变化以及内部能量变化规律。探讨了不同波浪要素(周期、波高、淹没水深)对潜堤附近波高影响的变化规律。同时,探究了潜堤斜坡坡度、堤顶淹没水深对波浪频谱在频域分布的影响。研究结果表明:当波浪通过潜堤时,波浪主频能量衰减,波浪能量由低频向高频移动;潜堤斜坡坡度越大、堤顶水深越小,波浪主频能量衰减越剧烈;波浪通过潜堤后高频波能量占潜堤次生波能量的1%~30%。 相似文献
7.
本文基于海浪波折射现象和浅水波理论,提出了一种基于单景高分辨率光学遥感影像的浅海地形提取方法。首先,基于浅水波理论推导出适用于浅海区域的水深与海浪波长、频率的定量关系,针对近岸光学遥感图像复杂的海浪特征,讨论了两种海浪波长提取方法,即FFT方法和剖面线法。然后提出了基于长距离波长波动分析的海浪频率计算方法,解决了单景遥感影像的波浪频率计算难题。最后,利用单景QuickBird高分辨率光学遥感影像,以海南岛三亚湾为研究区域进行了应用实验,结果表明,对12m以浅的浅海区域,在不需要任何辅助参数的情况下,反演获得了浅海地形(DEM),经与1:25000比例尺海图的水深对比验证,地形趋势吻合良好,反演水深的均方根误差为1.07m,相对水深误差为16.2%,表明该方法适合于浅海水下地形的提取,且具有无需实测水深数据和环境参数的支持的优点。 相似文献
8.
中国大陆沿岸波浪能分布初步研究 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
波浪能作为可持续利用的清洁能源,日益被人们所关注,本文基于WAVEWATCHⅢ全球波浪模式,建立了较高精度的中国沿岸海域波浪数学模型,重点对中国大陆沿岸-30m等深线上的波浪能分布进行了研究,在已有研究成果的基础上进一步细化了中国沿岸海域波浪能的时空分布规律,为合理开发、利用波浪能提供了一定的数据支持。研究认为,中国沿岸波浪能储量相对较小,南北分布以长江口为界,以南海域波能整体较大,波能季节性差异明显,在开发利用时,需要对工程区域的波浪能特征充分论证,科学合理地选用波浪能转化设备,防止造成巨大经济损失。 相似文献
9.
通过选取两个典型海外工程项目案例,分别采用波浪特征参数法和波浪谱法对工程海域波浪条件进行分析,并比较这两种方法在作业波浪条件、波浪特征认知程度上的差异,以及对海港水域平面布置产生的影响。对于波浪能量在频域及方向上存在多峰谱情况的海域,基于全谱的波浪特征参数系列数据有可能出现以下两种情况:1)主峰波向掩盖次峰波向;2)主峰波向错配次峰周期。对于上述两种情况,若仅采用波浪特征参数法对工程海域作业波浪条件进行分析,并指导海港水域平面布置,则极可能忽略或误判个别敏感波向、关键频域段的部分波浪能量,从而误导设计,为后续项目运营埋下隐患。对于以上情形,宜采用波浪谱法深入分析工程海域波浪能量在整个频域及各个方向上的详细分布及构成,并对关键波向、关键频域段的波浪能量进行量化,评估其对海港水域平面布置的影响,从而最大程度地避免由于波浪输入条件误判带来的风险。 相似文献
10.
本文利用我国海洋站的波浪资料分析了我国沿岸波浪能资源的分布和变化特征。指出我国沿岸波能理论总功率约为0.7亿千瓦。波能资源的地理分布总趋势,东中国海沿岸北部小南部大,南海大陆沿岸西部小东部大。沿岸波能功率具有明显的季节变化,秋冬季大,春夏季小。最后,提出了我国波浪能开发利用选点的建议。 相似文献
11.
A. K. Laing 《新西兰海洋与淡水研究杂志》2013,47(4):541-553
A model is described for hindcasting or forecasting waves in finite‐depth waters. The model is particularly applicable to coastal sites where the water is depth‐limited. The wave energy density spectrum is modelled in the frequency‐directional domain. For each spectral component a ray is defined along which wave energy propagates to reach the site. For sites exposed to the open ocean a background spectral wave model is required to provide input to the ray endpoints. Further growth and dissipation is then effected along the rays according to the local wind and water depth. The model was used to hindcast wave spectra over a period of 9 months for a site in the Canterbury Bight, New Zealand. The results were compared with measurements from a Waveridcr buoy at the site. The model succeeds in explaining about 40% of the variance in measured significant wave heights. However, the present application is handicapped by errors inherent in the background spectral model and in specifying the local wind. 相似文献
12.
在理论分析的基础上利用根、茎、叶均可量化的植物模型,开展波浪水槽实验。通过改变实验水深、入射波高、植物分布密度等因素,研究不规则波在植物群传播时沿程波高衰减特性,利用快速傅里叶变换对不规则波频谱变化情况进行分析。结果表明,各植物模型消波效果较好,但很少出现植物消波的边界效应,不规则波沿植物群的波高变化情况多数时与Mendez理论曲线不一致,植物群各部分的波能衰减情况并无固定的变化规律。此外,波能衰减集中在谱峰频率处,且入射波高越大,透射波与入射波之间的谱峰值差值越大,但透射波的频谱宽度与入射波相比无明显变化。本研究可为采用近岸植物消波护岸提供一定的理论依据。 相似文献
13.
Wave radiation stress is the main driving force of wave-induced near-shore currents. It is directly related to the hydrodynamic characteristics of near-shore current whether the calculation of wave radiation stress is accurate or not. Irregular waves are more capable of reacting wave motion in the ocean compared to regular waves.Therefore, the calculation of the radiation stress under irregular waves will be more able to reflect the wave driving force in the actual near-shore current. Exact solution and approximate solution of the irregular wave radiation stress are derived in this paper and the two kinds of calculation methods are compared. On the basis of this, the experimental results are used to further verify the calculation of wave energy in the approximate calculation method. The results show that the approximate calculation method of irregular wave radiation stress has a good accuracy under the condition of narrow-band spectrum, which can save a lot of computing time, and thus improve the efficiency of calculation. However, the exact calculation method can more accurately reflect the fluctuation of radiation stress at each moment and each location. 相似文献
14.
This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1?40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth. 相似文献
15.
Laboratory study of the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a mild slope 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth. 相似文献
16.
应用基于势流理论的时域高阶边界元方法,建立一个完全非线性的三维数值波浪水槽,通过实时模拟推板造波运动的方式产生波浪。通过混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新自由水面和造波板的瞬时位置。利用所建模型分别模拟了有限水深波和浅水波,与试验结果、相关文献结果和浅水理论结果吻合较好,且波浪能够稳定传播。系统地讨论造波板的运动圆频率、振幅和水深等对波浪传播和波浪特性的影响,并对波浪的非线性特性进行分析,研究发现造波板运动频率、运动振幅以及水深均将对波浪形态和波浪非线性产生显著影响。结果为真实水槽造波机的运动控制以及波浪生成试验提供了依据,便于实验室设置更合理的参数来准确模拟不同条件下的波浪。 相似文献
17.
Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》2004,60(6):1045-1052
Freely propagating surface gravity waves are observed to slow down and to stop at a beach when the bottom has a relatively gentle upward slope toward the shore and the frequency range of the waves covers the most energetic wind waves (sea and swell). Essentially no wave reflection can be seen and the measured reflected energy is very small compared to that transmitted shoreward. One consequence of this is that the flux of the wave’s linear momentum decreases in the direction of wave propagation, which is equivalent to a time rate of change of the momentum. It takes a force to cause the time rate of change of the momentum. Therefore, the bottom exerts a force on the waves in order to decrease the momentum flux. By Newton’s third law (action equals reaction) the waves then impart an equal but opposite force to the bottom. In shallow (but finite) water depths the wave force per unit bottom area is calculated, for normal angle of incidence to the beach, to be directly proportional to the square of the wave amplitude and to the bottom slope and inversely proportional to the mean depth; it is independent of the wave frequency. Constants of proportionality are: 1/4, the fluid density and the acceleration of gravity. Swell attenuation near coasts and some characteristics of sand movement in the near-shore region are not inconsistent with the algebraic structure of the wave force formula. Since the force has a depth variation which is significantly faster than that of the dimensions of the particle orbits in the vertical direction, the bottom induces a torque on the fluid particles that decreases the angular momentum flux of the waves. By an extension of Newton’s third law, the waves also exert an equal but opposite torque on the bottom. And because the bottom force on the waves exists over a horizontal distance, it does work on the waves and decreases their energy flux. Thus, theoretically, the fluxes of energy, angular and linear momentum are not conserved for shoaling surface gravity waves. Mass flux, associated with the Stokes drift, is assumed to be conserved, and the wave frequency is constant for a steady medium. 相似文献
18.
V. A. Kalmykov 《Physical Oceanography》1998,9(2):121-127
Dispersion relations and phase velocities of surface gravity waves, with their non-linearity being considered, have been derived
numerically from an equation for a nonvortical incompressible fluid of finite depth. For all the depths being considered,
the dispersion relations are readily realized for the wavenumbers smaller than the wavenumber of the basic harmonic. Then
the acquired relations tend to increasingly deviate from the linear dispersion relations. This is the case for all the depths
and wave steepnesses under discussion. When the depth of the sea diminishes, the deviations dramatically increase in both
cases, when waves grow steeper and when the form of the wave spectrum changes from wide to narrow. This also holds for the
phase velocity of waves.
Numerical results are matched up with the experimentally derived data. For calculations, JONSWAP spectra of various width
have been used.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
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LI Yucheng 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(1):59-67
—An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentleslope of 1:200.In the experiment,asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wavebreaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regu-lar waves on very mild slopes.The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influ-ence of bottom slope i,relative water depth d/L_0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regularwaves.The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, whilethe coefficient A should be 0.15.The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wavetheory is 0.74.Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after break-ing and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves. 相似文献