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1.
Wave-induced currents may drive nearshore mixing and transport processes, including coastal pollutant dispersion, littoral drift, and long-term morphological changes through beach erosion and accretion. In this study, a numerical model is newly developed to simulate wave climate and localized currents in complicated coastal environments. The model developed is based on a quadtree grid system. The two-dimensional hydrodynamic governing equations are solved by using an explicit Adams-Bashforth finite difference scheme. Effects of wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, turbulent mixing, bed friction, and shoreline movement are incorporated in the model. Results are presented for set-up at a beach in a flume due to normally incident waves, and longshore currents generated by oblique waves on a plane beach. 相似文献
2.
《Coastal Engineering》2007,54(6-7):493-505
This contribution evaluates the application of coastal video systems to monitoring and management of coastal stability problems on sandy coastlines. Specifically, video-derived parameters (coastal state indicators or CSIs) are developed which facilitate the measurement of the shoreline evolution (erosion/accretion) and response to storms, seasonal cycles and anthropogenic interventions like beach/shoreface nourishment and dredging. The primary variable which forms the basis for all the CSIs discussed in this contribution is the shoreline position derived from time-averaged video images. These waterlines are used to generate secondary products including shoreline contours at a constant pre-defined level, (intertidal) beach volumes, and momentary shoreline positions which reflect the sand volume in a meter wide section of the intertidal coast. Video-derived coastal state indicators were verified via comparisons with traditional topographical/bathymetric surveying techniques and a good agreement was found in all cases. CSIs were computed for three contrasting sandy coastal environments including an unprotected natural beach, a protected beach and a spit. Firstly, results are presented which demonstrate the advantages of coastal video systems over and above infrequent traditional topographic/bathymetric surveying methods. Namely, the ability of video-derived CSIs to quantify the magnitude, accurate location, precise timing and rates of change associated with individual extreme events and seasonal variability in the wave climate. Secondly, video-derived coastal state indicators were used to monitor two different types of human intervention, including beach nourishments and a dredged pit in a navigation channel. The video-derived datasets of coastal state indicators offered significant improvement to current CZM practices, facilitating better timing of management interventions as well as more effective monitoring of the spatial impact and longevity of these actions. 相似文献
3.
Change of shoreline wave climate caused by the installation of a wave farm is assessed using the SWAN wave model. The 30 MW-rated wave farm is called the ‘Wave Hub’ and will be located 20 km off the north coast of Cornwall, UK. Changes in significant wave height and mean wave period due to the presence of the Wave Hub are presented. The results suggest that the shoreline wave climate will be affected, although the magnitude of effects decreases linearly as wave energy transmitted increases. At probable wave energy transmission levels, the predicted change in shoreline wave climate is small. 相似文献
4.
ABSTRACTUnderstanding how and why the world’s coastlines are changing is a pressing international concern in a context of rising sea levels, increased climatic variability and intensifying coastal development. Medium to long-term records of coastal change are rare worldwide and often limited to individual beach compartments. This study presents a 70-year (1940–2010) aerial imagery record to compare decadal changes in shoreline position across four high-energy west coast beaches near Auckland, New Zealand/Aotearoa: Whatipu, Karekare, Piha and Te Henga (Bethells). The common exposure of these adjacent mesotidal beaches to changing wind and wave conditions might, if they present the dominant controls on shoreline position, be expected to produce synchronous change. Whatipu (935?m), Piha (32?m) and Te Henga (52?m) showed net overall progradation for the study period, while Karekare retreated slightly (?4.1?m). All except Whatipu underwent periods of beachwide erosion. Shoreline change was not coherent between beaches, despite similar exposure to variations in wind, wave and sea level. Variable sediment supply from northward littoral drift is implicated as the primary control on decadal-scale shoreline change for these beaches, highlighting the importance of local context in influencing shoreline response to changing environmental conditions. 相似文献
5.
Field measurements of beach morphology and sedimentology were made along the Monterey Peninsula and Carmel Bay, California, in the spring and summer of 1997. These data were combined with low-altitude aerial imagery, high-resolution bathymetry, and local geology to understand how coastal geomorphology, lithology, and tectonics influence the distribution and transport of littoral sediment in the nearshore and inner shelf along a rocky shoreline over the course of decades. Three primary modes of sediment distribution in the nearshore and on the inner shelf off the Monterey Peninsula and in Carmel Bay were observed. Along stretches of the study area that were exposed to the dominant wave direction, sediment has accumulated in shore-normal bathymetric lows interpreted to be paleo-stream channels. Where the coastline is oriented parallel to the dominant wave direction and streams channels trend perpendicular to the coast, sediment-filled paleo-stream channels occur in the nearshore as well, but here they are connected to one another by shore-parallel ribbons of sediment at depths between 2 and 6 m. Where the coastline is oriented parallel to the dominant wave direction and onshore stream channels are not present, only shore-parallel patches of sediment at depths greater than 15 m are present. We interpret the distribution and interaction or transport of littoral sediment between pocket beaches along this coastline to be primarily controlled by the northwest-trending structure of the region and the dominant oceanographic regime. Because of the structural barriers to littoral transport, peaks in wave energy appear to be the dominant factor controlling the timing and magnitude of sediment transport between pocket beaches, more so than along long linear coasts. Accordingly, the magnitude and timing of sediment transport is dictated by the episodic nature of storm activity. 相似文献
6.
Recent wave reanalysis databases require the application of techniques capable of managing huge amounts of information. In this paper, several clustering and selection algorithms: K-Means (KMA), self-organizing maps (SOM) and Maximum Dissimilarity (MDA) have been applied to analyze trivariate hourly time series of met-ocean parameters (significant wave height, mean period, and mean wave direction). A methodology has been developed to apply the aforementioned techniques to wave climate analysis, which implies data pre-processing and slight modifications in the algorithms. Results show that: a) the SOM classifies the wave climate in the relevant “wave types” projected in a bidimensional lattice, providing an easy visualization and probabilistic multidimensional analysis; b) the KMA technique correctly represents the average wave climate and can be used in several coastal applications such as longshore drift or harbor agitation; c) the MDA algorithm allows selecting a representative subset of the wave climate diversity quite suitable to be implemented in a nearshore propagation methodology. 相似文献
7.
The fishery harbor of Karaburun coastal village is located at the south west coast of the Black Sea. The significant waves coming from north eastern direction cause considerable rate of sediment transport along 4 km sandy beach towards the fishery harbor in the region. The resulting sediment deposition near and inside the harbor entrance prevents the boat traffic and cause a vital problem for the harbor operations. In order to determine the level and reasons of the sediment transport, the long-term observations of shoreline changes, the long-term statistical analysis of wind and wave characteristics in the region, and sediment properties have been performed. The data obtained from observations, measurements and analysis were discussed. The long-term statistics of deep water significant wave heights for each direction was discussed by comparing the results obtained from different data sources and methods. For shoreline evolution, the numerical study using one-line model was applied to describe the shoreline changes with respect to probable wave conditions. Initial shoreline was obtained from the digitized image in 1996 since there was no previous shoreline measurement of the site. The results were compared using the techniques of remote sensing obtained from sequent images using IKONOS and IRS1C/D satellites. 相似文献
8.
Amaia Ruiz de Alegría-Arzaburu Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña José M. Horrillo-Caraballo Gerhard Masselink Dominic E. Reeve 《Coastal Engineering》2010
This paper describes the application of Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA) to derive forcing–response relations between the wave climate and shoreline position on a macrotidal gravel barrier located in the southwest of the U.K., and to develop a tool to determine shoreline positions from wave records. The data sequences comprise wave climate recorded by a nearshore directional wave buoy and video-derived shorelines over a time span of one year and a half. The hydrodynamic conditions are used to determine the probability density function of wave heights and alongshore energy fluxes. These are then related to shoreline change through a CCA analysis. The CCA analysis identifies patterns of behaviour of the wave conditions and the shoreline position, and the relation between both patterns is found to provide useful information about the beach response to wave action. The analysis shows that the movement of sediment is greater at the southern end of the study area and that there is an immediate shoreline response to the wave action. In the case of coastal management it is more often the case that wave forecasts are available on a routine basis. The ability of the CCA to provide useful estimates of shorelines from wave conditions was tested by using measured waves to calculate the corresponding shoreline position from additional data at the end of the sequences. Shoreline positions determined with the CCA agreed well with the measured ones. Thus, the CCA is found to be a useful tool to determine unknown shoreline positions and support effective coastal management if good quality hydrodynamic and morphological data are available to input into the initial set-up of the technique. 相似文献
9.
Numerical models for shoreline evolution have been used for coastal management planning for several decades. The model calibration is a start point to project shoreline scenarios and in this aim the use of data acquired within the scope of monitoring programmes provides the opportunity to assess the models' capabilities under real condition. This work applies calibration data (retrieved from field surveys) to numerical models to predict medium-term shoreline evolution using, as a case study, a beach stretch named AC, about 3.5 km long and located downdrift of a groin on the northwest Portuguese coast. A smaller stretch AB (2.4 km long), included in the total one, which exhibits a pronounced erosive tendency usually better reproduced in shoreline evolution models, was also analysed. Based on topographic surveys, associated wave climate conditions registered between 2003 and 2008 and typical wave conditions registered over a longer wave climate time period, this work compares the calibration of two different shoreline evolution models, Long-term Configuration (LTC) and GENESIS for this period. Then, considering the 2003 topographic conditions for the models' calibration, the results of both models are discussed with respect to simulation scenarios after 10, 15 and 20 years of evolution. The 10-year evolution projections of the models are also compared to the results of a survey performed in February 2012. For the wave data calibration period (2003–2008), the average shoreline retreat of the analysed coastal stretch was reproduced with small differences (around 1% and 10% for LTC and 15% and 14% for GENESIS, considering stretches AB or AC, respectively), though local differences along the AB coastal stretch represent root mean square errors reaching up to 52% and 88% for GENESIS and LTC, respectively, and were above 118% for both models along the AC coastal stretch. 相似文献
10.
《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2005,62(1-2):291-300
In order to understand the subtidal marine dynamics relative to the coastal engineering works in the Bahía Blanca Estuary (Argentina), the balance of sediment transport caused by tidal currents was estimated in the Puerto Rosales area and compared with the predicted potential littoral transport. The breaking wave height used in the littoral drift calculation was estimated after applying different wave transforming procedures over the deepwater wave which was predicted by the occurrence of predominant wind, blowing long enough in an essentially constant direction over a fetch. The effect of a breakwater on currents and circulation was studied by bathymetric and side-scan sonar records, sedimentology, and tidal current measurements. Different modes of transport occur on either sides of the breakwater. On the east side, longshore transport is the principal mode, and on the west side, tidal transport is predominant. 相似文献
11.
Previous methods of determining the curved waterlines of bays which form on the coasts around the world have involved the logarithmic spiral. This has been applied to unstable bays which could erode back to a limit termed “static equilibrium” for which the constant in the spiral could be related to the obliquity of the wave crests to the control line, joining the upcoast headland to the downcoast extremity of the bay. It is shown that this applies mainly to the shadow zone behind the upcoast headland and not to the full bay periphery and does not have a fixed centre. A new method is proposed utilising arcs from the point of wave diffraction to the shoreline, whose lengths and angles to the wave crest line are related to those of the control line. Data and curves are presented for the static equilibrium shape by which the stability can be tested. They thus predict the waterline for the case of no sediment supply either from littoral drift or rivers debouching into the bay. An indentation ratio can also be derived to test stability. 相似文献
12.
《Ocean & Coastal Management》2006,49(7-8):498-510
This paper reviews the historic approach to coastal management and the reasons behind the introduction of the littoral ‘sediment cell’ concept to shoreline management planning in England and Wales. It then reviews the strengths and limitations of the approach and makes practical recommendations on how the approach can be further improved to ensure that a robust methodology exists for assessing coastal evolution; thereby providing a foundation for enabling sustainable future management decisions. Such decisions can relate to both the selection of shoreline management practices, and the identification of appropriate land use planning and development control responses. Both of these items need to take account of natural coastal processes and the interactions that occur within coastal systems at various temporal and spatial scales. 相似文献
13.
A satellite port has been proposed about 14.8 km north of Madras port on the east coast of India. As the interference of a satellite port with the existing pattern of longshore sediment transport will generate coastal imbalance in the region, a numerical model study involving sediment transport and combined wave refraction-diffraction was conducted to predict the shoreline behaviour. A realistic approach to the study was made to meet the objectives by considering wave height-wave period distributions in the region and duration and sequence of their occurrence during major monsoon seasons. This method of analysis enabled us to predict: (i) the extent of general shoreline advancement, particularly in front of a tidal inlet—a source of the cooling water requirement for an existing thermal power plant; (ii) the extent of the coastal region that will be affected owing to recession of shoreline and its impact on: (a) the fishing community living along the coastal stretch; (b) the national highway running along the coast; and (c) the changes in nearshore bathymetry. Based on the studies, management plans were drawn to safeguard the coastal region from imbalances that will arise out of construction of the satellite port. This paper highlights the effects of a satellite port on the coastal region and the need for proper management. 相似文献
14.
为准确定位风暴的强弱及灾害的大小,文中提出了泊松-二维对数正态分布,并将其用于海岸地区台风暴潮致灾强度的长期预测。选取青岛地区建国以来所出现的主要台风暴潮作为观测资料,以水位和显著波高系列组成样本,进行了台风暴潮重现期的统计推算。提出了判别台风暴潮致灾强度的新标准。实例显示,新标准概念清楚,简单易行,适用于青岛地区台风暴潮的强度确定。基于新模式的风暴潮强度随机分析方法对我国其它海岸地区的防潮减灾具有参考意义。 相似文献
15.
Beach-nearshore profiles combined with beach and surficial sediment samples were analyzed in conjunction with wave, current, littoral drift and sea-level data to determine the effect of bedrock on morphodynamic processes within the littoral zone of Alexandria on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt. This 14.5-km-long littoral cell is bounded by pronounced embayments and pocket beaches separated by headlands which prevent bypassing of beach sands, in effect making this cell a large, semi-closed basin. The compartmented nature of this cell acts together with the rough irregularity of the rocky seafloor to trap a thin veneer of sediment (<3 m thick), showing proportional mixing between two sedimentary provinces. A modern fine-grained sediment facies consisting of mixed carbonate/siliciclastic sand flanks most of the nearshore zone down to a depth of 8–10 m. Beyond this depth, considered to be the depth of closure, a relict late Pleistocene to mid-Holocene coarse-grained facies composed of biogenic carbonate sand is found. Along a short section of the coastline (km 3–6), the coarser sediment also occupies the nearshore zone. Over most of the study area the two sediment types are mixed in various proportions, largest mixing coinciding with poorest sorting. Profile analyses revealed seasonal changes in sediment volume along the coast which closely follow the cyclicity of seasonal changes in wave climate. The present shoreline orientation, headlands and rough, irregular rocky seabed are reflected in the erosion/accretion pattern, sediment characteristics, and the reversibility of longshore currents and littoral drift. Although there is a marked deficiency in the sediment balance, the sand budget for this cell, including artificial material (2.339*106 m3) has increased slightly by 0.041*106 m3 year–1
as a result of engineering works carried out to widen the coastal road (Corniche). In addition to the physical properties of the bedrock (degree of induration), the accelerating sea-level rise during the Holocene and human influences, the modern morphology of the coast, the erosional seabed features in the nearshore zone, and the texture of seabed sediments are all controlled by the original geometry of the coast which consisted of an elevated subaerial ridge. 相似文献
16.
Shoreline change analysis and prediction are important for integrated coastal zone management, and are conventionally performed by field and aerial surveys. This paper discusses an alternative cost-effective methodology involving satellite remote sensing images and statistics. Multi-date satellite images have been used to demarcate shoreline positions, from which shoreline change rates have been estimated using linear regression. Shoreline interpretation error, uncertainty in shoreline change rate, and cross-validation of the calculated past shorelines have been performed using the statistical methods, namely, Regression coefficient (R2) and Root Mean Square Error (RMSE). This study has been carried out along 113.5 km of coast adjoining Bay of Bengal in eastern India, over the time interval 1973 to 2003. The study area has been subdivided into seven littoral cells, and transects at uniform interval have been chosen within each cell. The past and future shoreline positions have been estimated over two time periods of short and long terms in three modes, viz., transect-wise, littoral cell-wise and regionally.The result shows that 39% of transects have uncertainties in shoreline change rate estimations, which are usually nearer to cell boundaries. On the other hand, 69% of transects exhibit lower RMSE values for the short-term period, indicating better agreement between the estimated and satellite based shoreline positions. It is also found that cells dominated by natural processes have lower RMSE, when considered for long term period, while cells affected by anthropogenic interventions show better agreement for the short-term period. However, on regional considerations, there is not much difference in the RMSE values for the two periods. Geomorphological evidence corroborates the results. The present study demonstrates that combined use of satellite imagery and statistical methods can be a reliable method for shoreline related studies. 相似文献
17.
《Marine Geology》2005,219(4):219-234
Using the average directions of the principal wavefronts that approach the northeastern Brazilian coast, which are coincident with the directions of the prevailing winds, a wave climate model was defined, for approximately 3000 km of coast by construction wave refraction diagrams. A resulting sediment transport model that was obtained by numerical modeling starting with refraction diagrams, taking into account the wave approach angles and their heights permitted the reproduction, on a regional scale, of the sediment dispersion pattern. Several drift cells were identified, the limits of which were based on alterations in the direction or intensity of potential net longshore drift. Although also dependent on other factors such as the supply of fluvial sediments to the coastal zone and to wind activity, the coastal sections that present progradation, erosion or non-deposition, can be reasonably explained, in a first order approximation, by these variations. As a generalization, geomorphic drift indicator match patterns of regional scale sediment dispersal. 相似文献
18.
The paper presents investigations of wave climate, tidal inlet hydraulics, and sand sediment bypassing at the entrance to Westport Harbour, South Island, New Zealand. The results complement and extend those of studies of bar morphologies and sediment characteristics already published. Longshore transport of about 1 × 106 m3/year is directed in a net eastward fashion across the inlet because of an in‐built misalignment of the harbour training walls. Approximately 90% of the drift is bypassed, and has been since 1921, by deflection and splitting of the main sediment streams through the inner and outer bars and a transverse channel aoross the entrance. The outer bar appears to be the submarine, downdrift extension of Carters Breach and river load appears to contribute an order of magnitude less sediment to the complex than annual littoral drift. River sediments and littoral drift are mixed off the harbour and a declining proportion over time is recirculated to cause progradation of North Beach. The tidal compartment contributes little to scour of the entrance because of the predominance of bar bypassing. Contrary to the recommendations of several past studies, it is argued that improvements in navigation depths at West‐port are more likely to be obtained through modification of the littoral drift system than they are from tidal compartment enlargement. 相似文献
19.
A video-based technique for mapping intertidal beach bathymetry 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Stefan G. J. Aarninkhof Ian L. Turner Thomas D. T. Dronkers Mark Caljouw Leann Nipius 《Coastal Engineering》2003,49(4):275
Measuring the location of the shoreline and monitoring foreshore changes through time are core tasks carried out by coastal engineers for a wide range of research, monitoring and design applications. With the advent of digital imaging technology, shore-based video systems provide continuous and automated data collection, encompassing a much greater range of time and spatial scales than were previously possible using field survey methods.A new video-based technique is presented that utilises full-colour image information, which overcomes problems associated with previous grey-scale methods, which work well at steep (reflective) sites, but are less successful at flatter (dissipative) sites. Identification of the shoreline feature is achieved by the automated clustering of sub-aqueous and sub-aerial pixels in ‘Hue–Saturation–Value’ (HSV) colour space, and applying an objective discriminator function to define their boundary (i.e., ‘shoreline’) within a time-series of consecutive geo-referenced images. The elevation corresponding to the detected shoreline features is calculated on the basis of concurrent tide and wave information, which is incorporated in a model that combines the effects of wave set-up and swash, at both incident and infragravity frequencies.Validation of the technique is achieved by comparison with DGPS survey results, to assess the accuracy of the detection and elevation methods both separately and together. The uncertainties associated with the two sub-components of the model tend to compensate for each other. The mean difference between image-based and surveyed shoreline elevations was less than 15 cm along 85% of the 2-km study region, which corresponded to an horizontal offset of 6 m. The application of the intertidal bathymetry mapping technique in support of CZM objectives is briefly illustrated at two sites in The Netherlands and Australia. 相似文献
20.
The shoreline trajectory of Damietta city, locates at the Northern coast of Egypt, is dramatically subjected to kinematic changes. These variations mainly occur based on the incessant duel hydrodynamic impacts of both wave action and coastal currents. Several types of coastal measures have been applied substantially along the coastal stretch of Damietta to protect shoreline such as detached breakwaters, Jetties, groins, and seawalls. This study is essentially focused on the assessment of shoreline kinematics response due to the existence of these structures during the period from 1990 to 2015. In addition, the future changes of the shoreline at 2020, 2025 and 2035 are predicted using satellite images, Geo-spatial tools and Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) by the meaning of End Point Rate (EPR) and Linear Regression Rate (LRR) methods. Four Landsat images at different periods; TM1990, TM 1999, ETM 2003 and ETM 2015 are used to detect shoreline changes. Three semi-automatic extraction techniques are initially tempted for Landsat ETM 2003 imagery namely; Iso cluster technique, threshold method, and onscreen digitizing method to select the optimal one. Iso cluster technique is used as the optimal technique which achieves the least errors with the corresponding field data in 2003 by value of 0.34. Furthermore, the extraction shoreline change for Damietta coast is extensively measured for three zones: zone (1) the western sector encompassing Damietta port with two jetties; zone (2) the central sector including detached breakwaters; zone (3) the eastern portion of Damietta estuary passing through a seawall. Verification analysis shows that the EPR is the optimum method for shoreline detection with a value of RMSE by 0.27. The results show that, for zone (1), the western shoreline of Damietta port is progressed by a rate of +10.0 m/year. On the other hand, the shoreline on the down drift side at zone (2) has retreated by a rate of -5.0 m/year. While the shoreline behind the detached breakwaters in the central sector has advanced by +12.0 m/year from 1999 to 2003, then decreased gradually until become stable in 2015. For zone (3), alongshore currents have derived the disassembled sandy soil from west to east leaving a highly eroded area by average rate of -78m/year. The results of this study give indication to shoreline trend of near future which should be under consideration in planning of Damietta coastal zone. 相似文献