共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
1.
Atsushi Kubokawa 《Journal of Oceanography》1986,42(5):373-380
Stability of a one-layer density-driven coastal current with a surface front whose potential vorticity is uniformly zero is examined, and it is shown that such a current can be unstable if the stability condition derived by Paldor (1983) is not satisfied,i.e., the current width,L, is larger than 2/3U/f, wheref is the Coriolis parameter andU is the current velocity at the front. This instability is caused by the coalescence of a frontal trapped and coastal trapped waves. The energetics of this instability and the effect of potential vorticity gradient are also discussed. 相似文献
2.
山东半岛一次强冷流降雪过程的中尺度特征分析 总被引：15，自引：2，他引：15
利用高空和地面的常规观测和天气加密观测资料,以及MM5V3.6中尺度数值模式系统的模拟结果,对2003年1月3~5日山东半岛北部地区发生的暴雪过程进行了中尺度特征研究。实况资料表明:在高空有利的大尺度环流形势控制下,不断入侵的冷空气作用下,受渤海暖海面的热力作用和山东半岛地形作用,产生了中尺度的海岸锋。在强冷平流、海岸锋锋生及半岛地形的摩擦抬升共同作用下,产生了这次强冷流降雪。海岸锋环流形成的对流云能引起降水量的局部增强。数值模拟结果表明:海岸锋生过程及其产生的沿岸辐合带是形成山东半岛冷流暴雪的主要原因,同时海岸锋同低层大气重力波耦合形成了海岸锋陷波。本文给出了山东半岛北岸海岸锋的概念模型。 相似文献
3.
Ping Chang 《Journal of Oceanography》1993,49(5):477-489
The effects of short waves on the propagration of velocity discontinuity along the interface of two uniform potential vorticity, zones on anf-plane is examined. It is shown, using a multiple scale analysis, that the dispersion introduced by the short waves can balance the nonlinear steepening effects predicted by the semigeostrophic theory. The time evolution of a shear disturbance along the front is governed by a Korteweg-de Vries equation. Numerical solutions of the solitary waves along the front are presented. 相似文献
4.
Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper concerns the hydrodynamics induced by random waves incident on a steep beach. New experimental results are presented on surface elevation and kinematic probability density functions, cross-shore variation in wave heights, the fraction of broken waves and velocity moments. The surf zone is found to be unsaturated at incident wave frequencies, with a significant proportion of the incident wave energy remaining at the shoreline in the form of bores. Wave heights in both the outer and inner surf zones are best described by a full Rayleigh distribution [Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. J. Geophys. Res. 88, 5925–5938], rather than a truncated Rayleigh distribution as used by Battjes and Janssen (1978) [Battjes, J.A, Janssen, J.P., 1978. Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. ASCE, New York, pp. 569–588]. A new parametric wave transformation model is outlined which provides explicit expressions for the fraction of broken waves and the energy dissipation rate within the surf zone. On steep beaches, the model appears to offer improved predictive capabilities over the original Battjes and Janssen model. Cross-shore variations in the velocity variance and velocity moments are best described using Linear Gaussian wave theory, with less than 20% of the velocity variance in the inner surf zone due to low frequency energy. 相似文献
5.
We consider a plane problem of generation of surface and internal waves in a bounded rotating basin of variable depth by a
front of atmospheric pressure moving over the basin. The fluid is assumed to be two-layer. The system of nonlinear long-wave
equations is solved numerically by the method of finite differences for the distribution of depths corresponding to a zonal
section of the Black-Sea basin. It is shown that the baric front moving over the basin generates barotropic and baroclinic
oscillations of the fluid. The intensity of disturbances depends on the velocity of motion and the width of the front. There
exists a velocity of motion of the front for which internal waves are generated especially efficiently. When the front leaves
the basin, we observe the formation of a packet of internal waves propagating from one lateral boundary of the basin to the
other boundary with reflections from the boundaries. 相似文献
6.
为进一步探究海洋内孤立波诱导流场对海洋工程结构物以及潜航器的影响,本文采用重力塌陷方法和粒子图像测速(Particle Image velocimetry,PIV)技术在大型分层流水槽中进行内孤立波造波以及内部流速场测量,定量分析了下凹型内孤立波诱导流场结构及其影响因素。研究表明:在密度分层流体中,PIV技术可实现对大幅面内孤立波诱导流场的精细测量以及波动结构特征的准确描述;水平流速在上下层方向相反且在跃层处最小,其剪切作用在波谷附近最强;垂向流动在波前和波后分别为上升和下沉流,两者流速值在距离波谷1/4~1/2波长位置达到最大;在相同内孤立波振幅条件下,上下层流体密度差越大、厚度比越小,则波致流场越强;随着振幅增大,流场结构与Kd V、e Kd V和MCC理论模型对应波幅适用范围的描述相吻合。 相似文献
7.
波浪破碎是海洋中最常见的现象之一,其能够对海洋中的结构物产生巨大的波浪力作用。本文在大比尺波浪水槽通过聚焦波的方法生成了极端波浪和不同破碎阶段的破碎波浪,并对其冲击桩柱过程中的点压力进行了测量,进而采用连续小波变换的方法,对桩柱上点压力的分布及大小进行了细致分析。结果表明,多次重复试验下,相比非破碎极端波浪,破碎极端波浪产生的点压力离散性更强;波浪破碎程度越大,测点位置越靠近波峰,则点压力离散程度越大;破碎波的最大点压力出现在1.2倍的最大波面附近,且其大小可达3倍的最大静水压力;基于点压力小波谱,不同破碎阶段破碎波产生冲击作用不同,对于波浪作用桩柱前波浪已经发生破碎的情况,其冲击区域更大,点压力分布更复杂;而对于桩面破碎的情况,其造成的波浪总力更大。 相似文献
8.
山东半岛沿岸海域悬浮体时空分布及形成机制分析 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
依据2015年GOCI(geostationary ocean color imager)卫星影像反演的悬浮体浓度数据,分析了山东半岛沿岸海域表层悬浮体质量浓度和锋面月变化特征,揭示该海域悬浮体的分布特征和扩散格局,并结合风速、波高以及海表温度数据,对其控制因素进行初步探讨。结果显示:研究区内悬浮体质量浓度整体表现为冬季最高,春秋次之,夏季最低的分布特征;悬浮体扩散过程可以划分为4个阶段,冬季稳定外输,春季向岸退缩,夏季近岸贮存,秋季向外扩散。此外,山东半岛近岸存在一条悬浮体质量浓度高于10 mg/L的浑浊带,该浑浊带同样表现出季节变化,它在秋季开始形成,其悬浮体含量、幅宽及延伸范围在冬季达到最大,春季减弱,夏季消失。研究认为山东半岛沿岸海域的表层悬浮体来源主要是海底沉积物的再悬浮。风场、海浪以及沿岸流的强弱变化对悬浮体分布和输运的季节变化有重要的控制作用:风场和海浪影响海水混合搅拌强度,改变海底沉积物再悬浮作用的临界深度,进而影响表层海水悬浮体浓度,致使悬浮体浓度与风浪的月际变化趋势基本一致;沿岸流携带高浓度悬浮体沿山东半岛输运形成沿岸浑浊带,沿岸流的强度变化直接控制浑浊带的季节变化。 相似文献
9.
东海温度锋的分布特征及其季节变异 总被引：8，自引：4，他引：8
根据１９３４－１９８８年东海水文观测资料，重点分析东海温度锋的分布特征及其季节变异，并结合近期中日黑潮合作调查研究成果，初步探讨温度锋季节变异和水团演变的关系，所得主要结论是：（１）东海不仅常年存在浙闽沿岸锋，东海北部陆架锋和黑潮锋，而且、春、夏两季，在东海南部还出现一条东海中部出架锋。（２）江海温度锋季节变化的特点是：冬季，锋的宽度和强度皆是表层最强，夏季，表层温度锋仅出现在浙江近岸小范围海域。 相似文献
10.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,44(2):117-139
In this paper, laboratory data for free surface displacements and velocity fields in front of a caisson breakwater covered with wave-dissipating blocks, together with wave pressures acting on the caisson, are presented and discussed. The core of the breakwater is made of a concrete caisson with a vertical front wall. The caisson is protected by a thick layer of tetrapods and is supported by a rubble mound. The breakwater is placed on the 1/25 impermeable slope. Two types of incident waves are used in the experiments: nonbreaking waves and spilling-type breaking waves. In the breaking wave case, the incident wave breaks offshore before it reaches the breakwater. The velocity data are obtained by using both the Laser Doppler Velocimeter (LDV) and the Electromagnetic Current Meter (EMCM). The raw data are analyzed using a numerical-filtering scheme so that turbulent fluctuations are separated from the phase-dependent wave motions. The vertical profiles of the time-averaged (over a wave period) turbulent velocity components at several vertical cross-sections in front of the breakwater are then analyzed. The spatial variations of the time-averaged turbulence velocity suggest that turbulence is generated inside the protective armor layer and transported into the flow region in front of the breakwater. The wave pressures on the vertical face and on the bottom of the caisson are also reported. 相似文献
11.
A model for the downward transfer of wind momentum is derived for growing waves. It is shown that waves, which grow due to an uneven pressure distribution on the water surface or a wave-coherent surface shear stress have horizontal velocities out of phase with the surface elevation. Further, if the waves grow in the x-direction, while the motion is perhaps time-periodic at any fixed point, the Reynolds stresses associated with the organized motion are positive. This is in agreement with several field and laboratory measurements which were previously unexplained, and the new theory successfully links measured wave growth rates and measured sub-surface Reynolds stresses. Wave coherent air pressure (and/or surface shear stress) is shown to change the speed of wave propagation as well as inducing growth or decay. From air pressure variations that are in phase with the surface elevation, the influence on the waves is simply a phase speed increase. For pressure variations out of phase with surface elevation, both growth (or decay) and phase speed changes occur. The theory is initially developed for long waves, after which the velocity potential and dispersion relation for linear waves in arbitrary depth are given. The model enables a sounder model for the transfer to storm surges or currents of momentum from breaking waves in that it does not rely entirely on ad-hoc turbulent diffusion. Future models of atmosphere-ocean exchanges should also acknowledge that momentum is transferred partly by the organized wave motion, while other species, like heat and gasses, may rely totally on turbulent diffusion. The fact that growing wind waves do in fact not generally obey the dispersion relation for free waves may need to be considered in future wind wave development models. 相似文献
12.
It is well known that wave induced bottom oscillations become more and more negligible when the water depth exceeds half the wavelength of the surface gravity wave. However, it was experimentally demonstrated for regular waves that the bottom pressure oscillations at both first and second wave harmonic frequencies could be significant even for incoming waves propagating in deep water condition in the presence of a submerged plate [16]. For a water depth h of about the wavelength of the wave, measurements under the plate (depth immersion of top of plate h/6, length h/2) have shown bottom pressure variations at the wave frequency, up to thirty times larger than the pressure expected in the absence of the plate. In this paper, not only regular but also irregular wave are studied together with wave following current conditions. This behavior is numerically verified by use of a classical linear theory of waves. The wave bottom effect is explained through the role of evanescent modes and horizontally oscillating water column under the plate which still exist whatever the water depth. Such a model, which allows the calculation of the velocity fields, has shown that not only the bottom pressure but also the near bed fluid velocity are enhanced. Two maxima are observed on both sides of the location of the plate, at a distance of the plate increasing with the water depth. The possible impact of such near bed dynamics is then discussed for field conditions thanks to a scaling based on a Froude similarity. It is demonstrated that these structures may have a significant impact at the sea bed even in very deep water conditions, possibly enhanced in the presence of current. 相似文献
13.
The results of qualitative laboratory and numerical experiments on two-dimensional non-linear model are described, aiming
at an investigation of the structure of the front of bottom gravity current. Non-coincidence of frontal interfaces in density
and velocity fields within the bottom gravity current leading (frontal) part is stated on the base of comparative analysis
of numerical and laboratory experiments. This fact is experimentally confirmed by field example of marine water inflow into
a brackish lagoon. The density gradient along the stream line is shown to be an additional effective criterion for the localization
of the frontal zone. 相似文献
14.
B.R. Sutherland M.R. Flynn K. Dohan 《Deep Sea Research Part II: Topical Studies in Oceanography》2004,51(25-26):2889
The collapse of a uniform density fluid (a “mixed region”) into a surrounding ambient fluid with complex stratification is examined by way of laboratory experiments and fully nonlinear numerical simulations. The analysis focuses upon the consequent generation of internal gravity waves and their influence upon the evolution of the collapsing mixed region. In experiments and simulations for which the ambient fluid has uniform density over the vertical extent of the mixed region and is stratified below, we find the mixed region collapses to form an intrusive gravity current and internal waves are excited in the underlying stratified fluid. The amplitude of the waves is weak in the sense that the intrusion is not significantly affected by the waves. However, scaling the results to the surface mixed layer of the ocean we find that the momentum flux associated with the waves can be as large as 1 N/m2. In simulations for which the ambient fluid is stratified everywhere, including over the vertical extent of the mixed region, we find that internal waves are excited with such large amplitude that the collapsing mixed region is distorted through strong interactions with the waves. 相似文献
15.
本文利用近十年来获得的ＮＯＡＡ卫星红外影像，较为系统地分析了东海海洋锋（黑潮锋、对马暖流锋和浙江沿岸锋）的波动谱特征以及形态的演变。同时还利用浮标测流结果分析了锋面波动中的流态。分析结果表明：东海黑潮锋通常存在４～５个折叠波形，其波长平均约２００ｋｍ，波动随黑潮流向东北方向传播，速度约１６ｃｍ／ｓ。浙江沿岸锋的波动多呈锯齿形，其波长较短，波数多。在浙江沿岸锋波动发展过程中，其波长从开始的２０～４０ｋｍ发展成３０～６０ｋｍ，它们约以１８ｃｍ／ｓ的速度向东北方向传播。东海海洋锋波动演变形态复杂，其中黑潮锋的波动可能演变成锋面涡旋、暖丝和暖环。 相似文献
16.
Stokes' expansion is applied to the internal waves of finite amplitude, which propagate on the interface between two layers of infinite thickness. Stream function, wave profile, phase velocity and mass transport velocity are given in the fifth order approximation. It is shown that (a) phase velocity increases with increase of wave steepness, (b) mass transport appears in the direction of the wave propagation in both layers as in the case of the surface waves, and (c) when the density difference is very small, the wave profile is flattened not only at the troughs but also at the crests. 相似文献
17.
18.
长江冲淡水输运和扩散途径的分析 总被引：12，自引：0，他引：12
本文在总结前人成果的基础上，进一步分析了长江冲淡水输运和扩散的途径。文章指出，长江冲淡水输运和扩散的途径有两种：顺岸南下型在冬、夏季都存在，它主要以杭州湾的次级锋面流和沿岸锋密度流为代表；转向型从５～６月开始，台湾暖流低密水和东海高密水之间的密度锋是长江冲淡水向外海扩散的通道 相似文献
19.
《Oceanologica Acta》2002,25(2):87-99
During previous field experiments in the North Sea it was often assumed that the water column in such shallow coastal tidal waters is vertically well mixed and stratification was neglected when discussing the Normalized Radar Cross Section modulation caused by the sea floor. In this paper the influence of quasi resonant internal waves with the sea bed on the radar imaging mechanism of submarine sand waves itself is investigated. In situ data of the tidal current velocity and several water quality parameters such as sea surface temperature, fluorescence, and beam transmittance were measured in the Southern Bight of the North Sea in April 1991. Simulations of the total NRCS modulation caused by sand waves and internal waves as a function of the current gradient or strain rate induced by the internal wave current field at the sea surface have been carried out using the quasi-steady approximation and linear internal wave theory. As a first approximation the strain rate depending on stratification was calculated using the two-layer model. These simulations demonstrate that at least a density difference between the two layers of the order of Δρ ≈ 1 kg m–3 is necessary for a sinusoidal thermocline to effect the total NRCS modulation considerably. The NRCS modulation as a function of wind friction velocity has been calculated independently and is discussed with regard to the strain rate of the surface current field caused by the superimposed imaging mechanisms of sand waves and internal waves. It turned out that the existence of a surface roughness-wind stress feedback mechanism cannot be excluded. 相似文献
20.
Wave loading on a coastal bridge deck due to nonlinear waves during a storm, where air may be fully or partially trapped between the girders, is studied through an extensive set of laboratory experiments. Wave cases tested cover a range of shallow-water to intermediate-water depth waves. A range of model elevations is tested to include conditions where the bridge may be partially inundated, to where the model is fully elevated above the still-water level (SWL). The model is constructed to include different percentages of air-relief openings, to capture a range of cases where no air can escape between the girders, to where all the air can escape and the wave can freely interact with the bottom of the bridge deck. Effects of the compressibility of entrapped air as well as the effects of the model scale are investigated through numerical calculations solving the compressible and incompressible Euler's equations, at both the model and prototype scales, by use of the open source CFD software, OpenFOAM. Along with coastal bridges, this research is applicable to other coastal and offshore structures, such as piers, submerged breakwaters and offshore platforms, in which wave loading or entrapped air is of concern. 相似文献