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1.
This study investigates the wave deformation of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater installed on the slope. Experiments were conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. Measurements of the free surface elevations around an impermeable submerged breakwater were carried out using 19 capacitance-type wave gages. In addition, a numerical model is proposed in three-dimensional random wave field. It is shown that the numerical results reproduce the general trend of the experimental results well. Investigations are made to study the effect of the spreading parameter Smax and bottom topography (bottom slope and submerged breakwater) on the wave deformation. It is pointed out that concentration of wave energy with larger values of the spreading parameter Smax is located within narrow limits in onshore side of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the supplementary discussion is made by means of numerical results. 相似文献
2.
A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications. 相似文献
3.
The problem of wave propagation in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank is studied using desingularized boundary integral equation method coupled with mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation. The present method is employed to solve the potential flow boundary value problem at each time step. The fourth-order predictor–corrector Adams–Bashforth–Moulton scheme is used for the time-stepping integration of the free surface boundary conditions. A damping layer near the end-wall of wave tank is added to absorb the outgoing waves with as little wave reflection back into the wave tank as possible. The saw-tooth instability is overcome via a five-point Chebyshev smoothing scheme. The model is applied to several wave propagations including solitary, irregular and random incident waves. 相似文献
4.
A numerical model is presented to predict the interaction of multidirectional random surface waves with one or more rectangular submarine pits. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method involves the superposition of diffraction solutions based on linearized shallow water wave theory obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous theoretical results for regular waves. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field around multiple submarine pits and navigation channels in many practical situations. 相似文献
5.
This paper describes the calibration procedure adopted for the new 3D wave basin located in the Hydrodynamics Laboratory at Imperial College London. Unlike traditional calibrations, based on observations of regular wave trains, the method described herein uses a focused wave approach. Such waves, produced by the constructive interference of freely propagating wave components, have led to a number of recent advances in theoretical wave modelling in which it was essential to know the underlying linear components. In the context of a laboratory study, similar advantages can be realised provided the linear wave components generated by the wave paddles are well defined. This, in turn, can only be achieved if the calibration is sufficiently accurate. The current study provides a calibration based upon a realistic JONSWAP spectrum, describes the details of the methodology employed, and highlights how the application of focused wave techniques eliminates spurious calibration effects due to unwanted reflections from the boundaries of the basin. The final calibration is verified through the generation of test cases, involving linear and nonlinear, unidirectional and directionally spread waves. These confirm both the accuracy of the calibration and the suitability of the methods employed. 相似文献
6.
该文提供分层海洋中运动物体生成内波的理论、数值和实验研究的背景资料的综述 ,并给出理论研究的 Green函数、正交模态模式和极点回避等方法的评述。数值研究给出数值求解Wronsky行列式的源求解方法及介绍直接差分计算含源内波方程和积分方程的方法。有关源致内波的实验研究 ,作者介绍物体在分层流水槽运动时生成内波的两个典型实验及其主要实验结果。最后评述船舶在海洋表面处生成表面波的研究方法 ,以此指导水下 Rankine卵形体生成内波的实验研究。 相似文献
7.
A three-dimensional modeling of multidirectional random-wave diffraction by a group of rectangular submarine pits is presented in this paper. The fluid domain is divided into N interior regions representing the pit area and an overall exterior region separated by the imaginary pit boundaries. In the interior region, the analytical expressions of the Fourier series expansion for velocity potentials in the pit regions have been derived with the unknown coefficients determined from a series of Green's function based boundary integral equations. The boundary integral approach has also been applied to obtain the velocity potential and free-surface elevation in the exterior region. The Pierson–Moskowitz (P–M) frequency spectrum was selected for the random wave simulation using the superposition of solutions of a finite number of decomposed wave components. Numerical results for the cases of regular waves and random waves are presented to examine the influences of the pit geometry and incident wave condition on the overall wave field. The general diffraction pattern of alternate bands of increase and decrease of relative wave height in front of the pit system can be observed. It is found that, in the shadow region, the relative wave height is reduced. As the number of pit increases, the effectiveness of reducing the relative wave height behind the multiple-pit system increases. However, the relative wave height within the pit area and in front of the leading pit shows increasing trend. It is noticed that under the random-wave condition, the level of increase and decrease of the relative wave height due to the existence of submarine pits is less pronounced than that observed from results in regular-wave condition. 相似文献
8.
A semi-analytical nonlinear wavemaker model is derived to predict the generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume. The solution is very efficient and is achieved by applying eigenfunction expansions and FFT. The model is applied to study the effect of the wavemaker and its motion on the generation and propagation of nonlinear waves. The results indicate that the linear wavemaker theory may be applied to predict only the generation of waves of low steepness for which the nonlinear terms in the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition and free-surface boundary conditions are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves these nonlinear terms have substantial effects on wave profile and wave spectrum just after the wavemaker. A wave spectrum corresponding to a sinusoidally moving wavemaker possesses a multi-peak form with substantial nonlinear components, which disturbs or may even exclude physical modeling in wave flumes. The analysis shows that the widely recognized weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory may only be applied to describe the generation and propagation of waves of low steepness. This is subject to further restrictions in shallow and deep waters because the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition as well as the nonlinear interaction of wave components and the evolution of wave energy spectrum is not properly described by weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify the nonlinear wavemaker model. The comparisons show a reasonable agreement between predicted and measured free-surface elevation and the corresponding amplitudes of Fourier series. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed even for fairly steep waves. 相似文献
9.
We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary. 相似文献
10.
使用三维源汇分布法Ⅲ计算有限水深中零航速浮体所受到的波浪力，对两种不同形式的格林函数中所共同存在的奇点问题分别进行了处理。公式推导表明，使用级数形式的格林函数可以使计算更加快捷。最后，对不同尺度的圆柱体进行了验算，在对计算结果与解析解进行了比较之后，工程计算也证明选择格林函数级数计算公式是更令人满意的方案。 相似文献
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12.
A new theoretical solution is presented here for the dynamic characteristics of a buoyant jet due to opposing small amplitude waves.The conservation equations of mass,tangential momentum and vertical momentum are solved by the integral method which encompasses the Gaussian profiles of velocity and density.The action of waves is incorporated into the equations of motion as an external force and a new exact solution is obtained to predict the trajectory,velocity distribution and boundary thickness of the buoyant jet over an arbitrary lateral cross section.It is found that the velocity along the centerline is inversely proportional to the ratio of the momentum of the wave to the buoyant jet.The averaged boundary width varies with the fluctuation of the boundary width,the distance from the orifice and the velocity correction function.Owing to the motion d waves,the fluctuation of the boundary width is proportional to the wave steepness. 相似文献
13.
Existing models of the wave bottom boundary layer have focused on the vertical and temporal dynamics associated with monochromatic forcing. While these models have made significant advances, they do not address the more complicated dynamics of random wave forcing, commonly found in natural environments such as the surf zone. In the closed form solution presented here, the eddy viscosity is assumed to vary temporally with the bed shear velocity and linearly with depth, however, the solution technique is valid for any eddy viscosity which is separable in time and space. A transformation of the cross-shore velocity to a distorted spatial domain leads to time-independent boundary conditions, allowing for the derivation of an analytic expression for the temporal and vertical structure of the cross-shore velocity under an arbitrary wave field. The model is compared with two independent laboratory observations. Model calculations of the bed shear velocity are in good agreement with laboratory measurements made by Jonsson and Carlsen (1976, J. Hydraul. Res., 14, 45–60). A variety of monochromatic, skewed, and asymmetric wave forcing conditions, characteristic of those found in the surf zone, are used to evaluate the relative effects on the bed shear. Because the temporal variation of the eddy viscosity is assumed proportional to the bottom shear, a weakly nonlinear interaction is created, and a fraction of the input monochromatic wave energy is transferred to the odd harmonics. For a monochromatic input wave, the ratio of the third harmonic of velocity at the bed to the first is <10%. However, for a skewed and asymmetric input wave, this ratio can be as large as 30% and is shown to increase with increasing root-mean-square input wave acceleration. The work done by the fluid on the bed is shown to be a maximum under purely skewed waves and is directed onshore. Under purely asymmetric waves, the work done is significantly smaller and directed offshore. 相似文献
14.
The motion and the drift force of a floating OWC (oscillating water column) wave energy device in regular waves are studied taking account of the oscillating surface-pressure due to the pressure drop across the duct of the air chamber. The potential problem inside the chamber is formulated by making use of the Green integral equation associated with the Rankine-type Green function while the outer problem with the Kelvin-type Green function. The added mass, wave damping and excitation coefficients as well as the motion and drift force of the OWC device are calculated for various values of parameter related to the pressure drop. 相似文献
15.
JIA Donghua
Engineer The First Design Institute of Navigation Engineering Ministry of Communications of China Tianjin P. R. China. 《中国海洋工程》1999,(1)
—The present study investigates the interaction of steep waves with semi-circular breakwaterwith the complex plane＇s Cauchy boundary integral theorem.The boundary integral method is used totransform the calculation in fluid domain into its boundary alone.In the calculation the computation do-main is moved with the propagation of waves.A numerical solution is obtained for incident Stokes wavespassing the submerged obstacles.This method has been extended to the calculation of wave run-up on aslope for estimating wave overtopping. 相似文献
16.
This paper presents new experimental data on 2-D surf beat generation by a time-varying breakpoint induced by bichromatic wave groups. The experimental investigation covers a broad range of wave amplitudes, short wave frequencies, group frequencies and modulation rates. The data include measurements of incident and outgoing wave amplitudes, breakpoint position, shoreline run-up and the cross-shore structure of both the short and long wave motion. Surf beat generation is shown to be in good agreement with theory [Symonds, G., Huntley, D.A., Bowen, A.J., 1982. Two dimensional surf beat: long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint. J. Geophys. Res. 87, 492–498]. In particular, surf beat generation is dependent on the normalised surf zone width, which is a measure of the phase relationship between the seaward and shoreward breakpoint forced long waves, and linearly dependent on the short wave amplitude. The cross-shore structure of the long wave motion is also consistent with theory; at maximum and minimum surf beat generation, the mean breakpoint coincides with the nodal and anti-nodal points, respectively, for a free long wave standing at the shoreline. A numerical solution, using measured data as input, additionally shows that the phase relationship between the incident bound long wave and the outgoing breakpoint forced wave is consistent with the time-varying breakpoint mechanism. 相似文献
17.
An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups
In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves. 相似文献
18.
Alessandra Romolo Giovanni Malara Giuseppe Barbaro Felice Arena 《Applied Ocean Research》2009,31(1):31-36
This paper deals with the random forces produced by high ocean waves on submerged horizontal circular cylinders. Arena [Arena F, Interaction between long-crested random waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. Phys Fluids 2006;18(7):1–9 (paper 076602)] obtained the analytical solution of the random wave field for two dimensional waves by extending the classical Ogilvie solution [Ogilvie TF, First- and second-order forces on a cylinder submerged under a free surface. J Fluid Mech 1963;16:451–472; Arena F, Note on a paper by Ogilvie: The interaction between waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. J Fluid Mech 1999;394:355–356] to the case of random waves. In this paper, the wave force acting on the cylinder is investigated and the Froude Krylov force [Sarpkaya T, Isaacson M, Mechanics of wave forces on offshore structures, Van Nostrand Reinhold Co.; 1981], on the ideal water cylinder, is calculated from the random incident wave field. Both forces represent a Gaussian random process of time. The diffraction coefficient of the wave force is obtained as quotient between the standard deviations of the force on the solid cylinder and of the Froude Krylov force. It is found that the diffraction coefficient of the horizontal force Cdo is equal to the Cdv of the vertical force. Finally, it is shown that, since a very large wave force occurs on the cylinder, it may be calculated, in time domain, starting from the Froude Krylov force. It is then shown that this result is due to the fact that the frequency spectrum of the force acting on the cylinder is nearly identical to that of the Froude–Krylov force. 相似文献
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20.
H. T. Teo 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(16):2157-2166
Non-linear wave pressure induced by short-crested waves on a vertical wall is an important factor to be considered in the design of coastal structures. The existing models to estimate the wave pressure in engineering design are limited to the third-order solution ([Hsu et al., 1979]). In this paper, an analytical solution up to the fifth-order is derived through perturbation approximation. This analytical closed-form solution is used to investigate the contributions of the higher-order components in short-crested waves. It is found that fifth-order components significantly affect the change of pressure, especially in shallow water and larger waves. 相似文献