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1.
通过物理模型实验研究了海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的形成和演化过程,给出了稳定的沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的几何特征。实验中考虑了两种初始坡度(1∶20和1∶10)和不同波高的规则波和不规则波,讨论了不同初始坡度海岸上破碎波空间分布特征。结果表明,沙坝产生后存在向岸和离岸两种运动形态,但最终将停留在稳定位置。稳定的沙坝剖面对应不同初始坡度和波浪存在不同的大沙坝和小沙坝分布。沙坝剖面由长时间小波高波浪序列作用后可转化为稳定滩肩剖面,该剖面不依赖于波浪和初始坡度。实验也给出了平衡剖面与理论曲线的对比以及剖面上泥沙粒径的分布。 相似文献
2.
通过波浪水槽实验,对海平面变化造成的波浪动力因素改变引起的沙质岸滩形态响应开展机理性研究。实验采用1∶10单一沙质斜坡概化岸滩,利用3种不同实验水深模拟海平面变化,考虑椭圆余弦波、非规则波、规则波和孤立波4种类型波浪作用。实验对波浪在斜坡上的传播变形、破碎、上爬和回落过程的波高及波浪作用后的岸滩地形进行了测量。实验结果表明,椭圆余弦波、规则波和非规则波作用下,平衡岸滩呈现出滩肩形态,孤立波作用下则呈沙坝形态。海平面上升造成波浪动力增强,沙质岸滩平衡剖面形状基本保持不变向岸平移,槽谷、滩肩、沙坝位置以及岸线蚀退距离,均呈现出良好规律性。 相似文献
3.
通过波浪水槽实验,开展不同类型波浪作用下的沙质岸滩演化规律研究工作。本次实验研究不考虑比尺,采用1:10与1:20组成的复合沙质斜坡对岸滩进行概化,选取规则波和椭圆余弦波两种典型波浪作用,对波浪的传播、变形和破碎、上爬、回落过程以及波浪作用前后沙质岸滩床面地形进行了观测,探讨波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面演化规律。本文实验工况中,规则波作用下,岸滩剖面呈现出沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面,椭圆余弦波作用下的岸滩剖面均呈滩肩形态,发现岸滩剖面形态不仅与波浪作用类型、强度、周期等因素相关,还与波浪破碎的强度等因素有关。通过对实验过程中现象的进行观察和分析,引入了卷破波水舌冲击角的概念。对波浪卷破破碎后形成的水流挟沙运动与岸滩剖面形态的关系进行定性分析,对水舌冲击角与Irribarren参数之间的关系进行定量分析,基于Irribarren参数与岸滩剖面形态的关系初步建立了波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面形态判别关系式。通过本文实验结果和前人实验结果对趋势线进行拟合,求得其判别系数,判别式能够较好地划分淤积型岸滩、侵蚀型岸滩及过渡型岸滩三种岸滩形态。 相似文献
4.
基于人工沙坝影响波浪破碎的理论分析,采用极端高水位、设计高水位和0.00m水位下的极限波高作为入射波,对近岸人工沙坝进行了模拟试验,研究波浪动力对人工沙坝剖面的变形及其对岸滩养护的影响。结果表明:坝顶水深和沙坝高度之比h/d决定沙坝的稳定性,h/d较小时,沙坝能接近稳定;沙坝的变形与坝前波浪破碎有关,可用坝顶水深和临界水深之比h/hb判定波浪在沙坝上的破碎;近岸人工沙坝使波浪提前破碎,滩肩拓宽,使泥沙向岸输移大于向海输移,减小岸滩侵蚀区域,增大淤积范围。 相似文献
5.
《热带海洋学报》2017,(1)
红树林广泛分布于我国南方沿海地区,可有效减小波浪对岸滩的破坏,研究其在规则波作用下对岸滩变化的影响具有重要意义。基于波浪水槽实验,采用PVC圆管模拟红树林,选取无黏性沙堆砌而成的1/10~1/20组合坡概化岸滩。实验结果表明,在规则波作用下,红树林的存在对岸滩剖面变化产生了较大影响;并分析了规则波波陡、植物分布密度和排列方式对岸滩剖面变化的影响。基于实验数据,建立了在实验条件下的岸滩冲刷坑尺度、淤积沙坝尺度、最大冲刷深度、最大淤积高度与规则波波陡、红树林的分布密度和排列方式之间的关系式,结果呈幂指数函数关系。揭示了岸滩剖面变化与规则波水动力特性、红树林、泥沙颗粒和岸滩坡度之间的联系。引入植物综合系数,预测给定规则波波陡和波长情况下的岸滩冲淤演变特征值,为海岸生物防护工程的建设提供科学依据。 相似文献
6.
以北戴河海滩横断面地形为例,采用平面二维水动力学、波浪、泥沙输运模型的数值计算方法,对不同沙坝位置进行了3种水位的极限波高入射数值试验,获取了坝内外波浪透射系数及稳定后的断面地形,并对波浪的消减及岸滩防护效果进行了分析与对比。结果表明:人工沙坝具有较好的消波效能,并能对岸滩起到较好的养护效果,将为类似侵蚀性海滩的生态修复提供科学依据。 相似文献
7.
砂质海滩剖面形态受到泥沙粒径、海洋动力的影响。自然或人工海滩一般由粒径不同的级配泥沙组成,其海滩剖面形态应与海滩砂的级配有关。本文用不同粒径和级配的砂铺设海滩,进行了不同波浪动力作用下滩形形成的水槽试验,探究海滩剖面与波浪动力、泥沙粒径以及级配之间的关系。结果表明:波高越大越容易形成沙坝型剖面,波高越小越容易形成滩肩型剖面,沙床粒径越细,泥沙横向输移量越大,沙坝宽度越大,沙坝位置更为向海,滩肩更为向岸;波周期越大,滩肩位置越容易淤积;级配沙床中,对沙坝形态起主要影响作用的为粗颗粒泥沙。试验得到的水下沙坝形态参数奎利根比并非已有研究给出的定值,与泥沙组成和波参数有关。 相似文献
8.
9.
全球海岸生态系统正遭受气候变化及人类活动带来的威胁, 本文基于沙坝-潟湖系统海岸典型剖面形态, 通过设计实施动床波浪水槽试验, 定量研究了侵蚀浪条件下沉水植被对该系统海岸冲淤的影响。结果表明: 沉水植被明显削弱了沙坝前坡波浪破碎区前缘的波高增大幅度, 并使坝后波高衰减; 植被作用使波浪反射和透射系数减小、耗散系数增大; 侵蚀浪作用下, 沙坝坝顶冲刷较明显, 潟湖内呈淤积趋势, 海岸前丘受波浪冲刷呈陡坎形态。植被影响下沙坝和前丘区域最大侵蚀厚度均减小; 植被可减少沙坝净侵蚀量、潟湖内淤积量及离岸输沙量, 对海岸前丘有较好的保护作用。 相似文献
10.
本文通过物理模型试验,研究了砾石堤坝、多孔方型鱼礁、堤坝+鱼礁等不同防护措施对岸滩的保护作用。通过测量不同防护措施的波浪透射系数、输沙率、水下坡度角及床面地形变化,并与无防护措施的工况进行对比,结果发现：不同试验条件下堤坝+鱼礁工况的透射系数仅为0.21～0.36,对波浪具有显著的消减作用;同一水位不同防护措施下的输沙率由大变小依次为：堤坝、堤坝+鱼礁、无工程、鱼礁;堤坝迎浪面的水下坡度角随极限波高呈现先增大、后减小的趋势,堤坝工况的水下坡度角约是堤坝+鱼礁工况的2～4倍;对于近岸的地形恢复,堤坝+鱼礁工况的效果比较明显,且对岸滩附近的侵蚀较少。堤坝+鱼礁的防护措施可明显减小波浪的透射系数,增加向岸输沙率,对恢复近岸地形、保护岸滩有显著作用。 相似文献
11.
Coastal inundation associated with extreme sea levels is the main factor which leads to the loss of life and property whenever a severe tropical cyclonic storm hits the Indian coasts. The Andhra and Orissa coasts are most vulnerable for coastal inundation due to extreme rise in sea levels associated with tropical cyclones. Loss of life may be minimized if extreme sea levels and associated coastal flooding is predicted well in advance. Keeping this in view, location specific coastal inundation models are developed and applied for the Andhra and Orissa coasts of India. Several numerical experiments are carried out using the data of past severe cyclones that struck these regions. The simulated inland inundation distances are found to be in general agreement with the reported flooding. 相似文献
12.
Hoi-Soo Jung Kap-Sik Jeong Yong-Shik Chu Sung-Hyun Park Ki-Hyune Kim 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2001,19(3):181-195
Grain size and water content in box-core sediments from the Clarion-Clipperton fracture zone (C-C zone) in the northeast equatorial Pacific were analyzed in detail to understand the downcore variations across a hiatus between Quaternary and Tertiary layers. Grain-size distributions in the topmost core sediments show two modes: a coarse mode (peaked at 50 μm) and a fine mode (at 2-25 μm). The coarse mode disappears gradually with depth accompanied by the dissolution of siliceous fossil tests, whereas the fine mode coarsens due to the formation of authigenic minerals. Water content increases abruptly across a color boundary between an upper pale brown layer and a lower dark brown layer that is the hiatus between Quaternary and Tertiary layers. Abundant smectites and microvoid molds, which are created by the prolonged fossil dissolution in the underlying sediment, are attributed for the abrupt downcore variation of water content. Overall variations in grain size and water content in the topmost core sediments in the western C-C zone are possibly constrained by the dissolution of biogenic siliceous fossils. Variations in geotechnical properties related to these changes must be considered in the design of nodule collectors. 相似文献
13.
Shigehisa Nakamura 《Marine Geodesy》2001,24(1):27-33
This article concerns an interrelation between the sea levels and the western boundary flow near a tectonic boundary in a local zone in the Northwestern Pacific. In this zone, sea level variations at stations located on the coast facing the Pacific are studied to find the interrelation between variations of the Kurosio flow as an index of the distance of the flow axis off a specific coast. The result is discussed after data processing of the monthly means of the sea levels, and a notice is taken of variations caused by active crustal upheavals during a seismic event, a local earthquake. 相似文献
14.
This study tests the hypothesis that the in situ void ratio of surficial marine sediments may be predicted from shear wave velocity-depth data with a reliability equal to that of other methods currently available. Shear wave velocity is fundamentally controlled by the number of grain-to-grain contacts per unit volume of material and by the effective stress across those contacts. In this study, three previously established empirical formulae are used to predict void ratio from velocity-depth data. Field data were acquired along a transect off the northern Californian coast across which water depth increased from 35 to 70 m and seafloor sediment type varied from sand to silty-sand, respectively. A towed seafloor sled device was used to collect shear wave refraction data, and a marked, systematic decrease in velocity was observed along the line, ranging from 35-70 m/s for the coarse, near-shore material to 25-40 m/s for the finer, offshore deposits. Void ratios predicted from these velocities were compared with data measured directly from box-core samples. Of the formulae used for prediction, two agree remarkably well with the control data. Both predicted and control values increase from 0.6-0.8 for the sandy material to 1.1-1.5 for the silty-sand. Thus, this study does not disprove the hypothesis set and demonstrates the potential of field shear wave velocity-depth data as a means of delineating spatial variation in void ratio for surficial marine sediments in a remote, nondestructive manner. 相似文献
15.
Particulate samples were collected from the Changjiang river system during a flood period, in May 1997, and POC, stable isotope and lipids associated with particles were examined. Results showed the decrease (0.84% ～ 1.88%) of organic carbon content from the upper reaches to the estuary.δ13C values of particulate organic carbon was in the range of -24.9×10-3 to -26.6×10-3, which were close to the isotopic signature of continental C3 vegetation. Total particulate n-alkanes concentrations varied from 1.4 to 10.1μg/dm3,or from 23.7 to 107μg/g of total suspended matter. Fatty acids were present in all the samples, from 1.4 to 5.4μg/dm3, with saturated and unsaturated straight-chain and branched compounds in the carbon number range from C12 to C30. Both δ13C and the ratio of carbon content to nitrogen content indicate the predominance of terrestrial inputs (soil organic matter) among the particles. The biomarker approach has been used to identify the relative portion of terrigenous and autochthonous fraction in the particulate samples. The distribution of fatty acids suggests a striking phytoplanktonic and microbial signal in most particle samples. The terrestrial alkanes are used to estimate the contribution of terrestrial inputs along the mainstream. 相似文献
16.
Andrzej Chybicki 《Marine Geodesy》2018,41(1):1-23
Current trends of development of satellite derived bathymetry (SDB) models rely on applying calibration techniques including analytical approaches, neuro-fuzzy systems, regression optimization and others. In most of the cases, the SDB models are calibrated and verified for test sites, that provide favorable conditions for the remote derivation of bathymetry such as high water clarity, homogenous bottom type, low amount of sediment in the water and other factors. In this paper, a novel 3-dimensional geographical weighted regression (3GWR) SDB technique is presented, it binds together methods already presented in other studies, the geographically weighted local regression (GWR) model, with depth dependent inverse optimization. The proposed SDB model was calibrated and verified on a relatively difficult test site of the South Baltic near-shore areas with the use of multispectral observations acquired by a recently launched Sentinel-2 satellite observation system. By conducted experiments, it was shown that the proposed SDB model is capable of obtaining satisfactory results of RMSE ranging from 0.88 to 1.23[m] depending on the observation and can derive bathymetry for depths up to 12m. It was also shown, that the proposed approach may be used operationally, for instance, in the continuous assessment of temporal bathymetry changes, for areas important in the context of ensuring local maritime safety. 相似文献
17.
N. H. Khadge 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2000,18(3):251-258
As a part of the environmental impact assessment studies, geotechnical properties of sediments were determined in the Central Indian Basin. The undrained shear strength and index properties of the siliceous sediments were determined on 20 box cores of uniform dimension collected from various locations in five preselected sites. The maximum core length encountered was 41 cm and most of the sediments were siliceous oozes consisting of radiolarian or diatomaceous tests. The shear strength measurements revealed that surface sediments deposited in recent times (0-10 cm) have a shear strength of 0-1 kPa; this value increases with depth, reaching 10 kPa at 40 cm deep. Older sediments have greater strength because of compaction. Water content varies in the wide range of 312-577% and decreases with depth. The clay minerals such as smectite and illite are dominant and show some control over water content. Wet density, specific gravity, and porosity do not indicate any notable variation with depth, thereby indicating a uniform, slow rate of sedimentation. The average porosity of sediments is 90.2%, specific gravity 2.18, and wet bulk density 1.12 g/cm 3 . Sediments exhibit medium to high plasticity characteristics, with the average plasticity index varying between 105% and 136%. Preliminary studies on postdisturbance samples showed an increase in natural water content and a decrease in undrained shear strength of sediments in the top 10- to 15-cm layer. 相似文献
18.
Extreme sea levels associated with severe cyclonic storms are common occurrences along the east coast of India. The coastal districts of Orissa have experienced major surges in the past. The recent Paradip super cyclone is one of the most severe cyclones, causing extensive damage to property and loss of lives. Extreme sea levels are major causes for coastal flooding in this region. Damages can be minimized if the extreme sea levels are forecast well in advance. In the present study, we develop a location specific, fine resolution model for the Orissa coast on the lines similar to that of IIT-D storm surge model (Dube et al. 1994). The model runs on a personal computer. The bathymetry for the model is extracted from very fine resolution naval hydrographic charts for the region extending from the south of Orissa to south of West Bengal. A simple drying scheme has also been included in the model in order to avoid the exposure of land near the coast due to strong negative sea surface elevations. An attempt was made in this study to simulate extreme sea levels along the Orissa coast using the data of past severe cyclones. The model results reported in the present study are in good agreement with available observations or estimates. 相似文献
19.
An Improved Calibration of Satellite Altimetric Heights Using Tide Gauge Sea Levels with Adjustment for Land Motion 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Gary T. Mitchum 《Marine Geodesy》2000,23(3):145-166
Several major improvements to an existing method for calibrating satellite altimeters using tide gauge data are described. The calibration is in the sense of monitoring and correcting temporal drift in the altimetric time series, which is essential in efforts to use the altimetric data for especially demanding applications. Examples include the determination of the rate of change of global mean sea level and the study of the relatively subtle, but climatically important, decadal variations in basin scale sea levels. The improvements are to the method described by Mitchum (1998a), and the modifications are of two basic types. First, since the method depends on the cancellation of true ocean signals by differencing the altimetric data from the tide gauge sea level time series, improvements are made that produce a more complete removal of the ocean signals that comprise the noise for the altimetric drift estimation problem. Second, a major error source in the tide gauge data, namely land motion, is explicitly addressed and corrections are developed that incorporate space-based geodetic data (continuous GPS and DORIS measurements). The long-term solution, having such geodetic measurements available at all the tide gauges, is not yet a reality, so an interim solution is developed. The improved method is applied to the TOPEX altimetric data. The Side A data (August 1992?February 1999) are found to have a linear drift component of 0.55 + / 0.39 mm/yr, but there is also a significant quadratic component to the drift that is presently unexplained. The TOPEX Side B altimeter is estimated to be biased by 7.0 + / 0.7 mm relative to the Side A altimeter based on an analysis of the first 350 days of Side B data. 相似文献
20.
J. N. Pattan Ch. M. Rao A. A. Migdisov S. Colley N. C. Higgs L. Demidenko 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2001,19(3):155-165
The rare earth element (REE) distribution in nine deep-sea ferromanganese nodules and their associated siliceous sediments from the Central Indian Ocean Basin (CIOB) have been studied to elucidate the REE relationship among them. Total REE concentration varies from 398-928 ppm in the nodules and 137-235 ppm in the associated sediments, suggesting two- to four-fold enrichment in the nodules compared to associated sediments. REE of nodules and their associated sediments show a positive correlation, suggesting REE are supplied from a common source such as seawater. The positive correlation between REE of nodules and sediments from the CIOB is contrary to the competitive scavenging of REE between nodules and sediment in the equatorial Pacific Ocean. REEs in the nodules are carried by Fe, P, and Ti, whereas in the sediment they are carried by P and Mn phases. A similar REE fractionation pattern with middle REE enrichment over heavy and light REE in both the nodules and their associated sediment suggest fractionation is independent of REE abundance and their carrier phases. 相似文献