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1.
A probability density function of surface elevation is obtained through improvement of the method introduced by Cieslikiewicz who employed the maximum entropy principle to investigate the surface elevation distribution. The density function can be easily extended to higher order according to demand and is non-negative everywhere, satisfying the basic behavior of the probability. Moreover because the distribution is derived without any assumption about sea waves, it is found from comparison with several accepted distributions that the new form of distribution can be applied in a wider range of wave conditions. In addition, the density function can be used to fit some observed distributions of surface vertical acceleration although something remains unsolved.  相似文献   

2.
Based on the maximum entropy principle, a probability density function (PDF) is derived for the distribution of wave heights in a random wave field, without any more hypothesis. The present PDF, being a non-Rayleigh fonu, involves two parameters: the average wave height H^- and the state parameter γ. The role of γ in the distribution of wave heights is examined. It is found that γ may be a certain measure of sea state. A least square method for determining γ from measured data is proposed. In virtue of the method, the values of γ are determined for three sea states from the data measured in the East China Sea. The present PDF is compared with the well known Rayleigh PDF of wave height and it is shown that it much better fits the data than the Rayleigh PDF. It is expected that the present PDF would fit some other wave variables, since its derivation is not restricted only to the wave height.  相似文献   

3.
The new distributions of the statistics of wave groups based on the maximum entropy principle are presented.The maximum entropy distributions appear to be superior to conventional distributions when applied to a limited amount of information.Its applications to the wave group properties show the effectiveness of the maximum entropy distribution.FFT filtering method is employed to obtain the wave envelope fast and efficiently.Comparisons of both the maximum entropy distribution and the distribution of Longuet-Higgins(1984) with the laboratory wind-wave data show that the former gives a better fit  相似文献   

4.
The role of surface waves in the ocean mixed layer   总被引:7,自引:6,他引:1  
Previously, most ocean circulation models have overlooked the role of the surface waves. As a result, these models have produced insufficient vertical mixing, with an under - prediction of the ,nixing layer (ML) depth and an over - prediction of the sea surface temperature (SST), particularly during the summer season. As the ocean surface layer determines the lower boundary conditions of the atmosphere, this deficiency has severely limited the performance of the coupled ocean - atmospheric models and hence the climate studies. To overcome this shortcoming, a new parameterization for the wave effects in the ML model that will correct this systematic error of insufficient mixing. The new scheme has enabled the mixing layer to deepen, the surface excessive heating to be corrected, and an excellent agreement with observed global climatologic data. The study indicates that the surface waves are essential for ML formation, and that they are the primer drivers of the upper ocean dynamics; therefore, they are critical for climate studies.  相似文献   

5.
Beta Distribution of Surface Elevation of Random Waves   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
A probability density function (PDF) is derived of beta distribution with both λ3 (skewness) and λ4 (kurtosis) as parameters for weakly nonlinear wave surface elevation by use of a method recently proposed by Srokosz. This PDF not only has a simpler form than the well-known Gram-Charlier Series PDF derived by Longuet-Higgins. but also overcomes an obvious shortcoming of the latter that when the series is unsuitably truncated, the resulting PDF is locally negative. To test the derived beta PDF, laboratorial experiments of wind waves are conducted. The experimental data indicate that the theoretical requirements of the parameters in the beta PDF are fulfilled. The experimental results show that the present PDF is in better agreement with the measured data than the beta PDF only including parameter λ3, and also than the Gram-Charlier Series PDF truncated up to the term of H6.  相似文献   

6.
Owing to the Benjamin-Feir instability,the Stokes wave train experiences a modulation-demodulation process,and presents a recurrence characteristics.Stiassnie and Shemer researched the unstable evolution process and provided a theoretical formulation for the recurrence period in 1985 on the basis of the nonlinear cubic Schr dinger equation(NLS).However,NLS has limitations on the narrow band and the weak nonlinearity.The recurrence period is re-investigated in this paper by using a highly efficient High Order Spectral(HOS) method,which can be applied for the direct phaseresolved simulation of the nonlinear wave train evolution.It is found that the Stiassnie and Shemer’s formula should be modified in the cases with most unstable initial conditions,which is important for such topics as the generation mechanisms of freak waves.A new recurrence period formula is presented and some new evolution characteristics of the Stokes wave train are also discussed in details.  相似文献   

7.
This paper concerns the calculation of the wave trough exceedance probabilities in a nonlinear sea. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic method. This is a new approach for the calculation of the wave trough exceedance probabilities, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The proposed asymptotic method has been applied to calculate the wave trough depth exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the coast of Yura in the Japan Sea. It is demonstrated that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than the theoretical Rayleigh wave trough depth distribution model. The calculated results by using the proposed new method have been further compared with those obtained by using the Arhan and Plaisted nonlinear distribution model and the Toffoli et al.’s wave trough depth distribution model, and its accuracy has been once again substantiated. The research findings obtained from this study demonstrate that the proposed asymptotic method can be readily utilized in the process of designing various kinds of ocean engineering structures.  相似文献   

8.
Dependence of sea surface drag coefficient on wind-wave parameters   总被引:3,自引:2,他引:1  
The relationships between sea surface roughness z 0 and wind-wave parameters are analyzed,and spurious self-correlations are found in all of the parameterization schemes.Sea surface drag coefficient C D is fitted by four wind-wave parameters that are wave age,wave steepness,windsea Reynolds number R B and R H ,and the analyzed data are divided into laboratory,field and combined data sets respectively.Comparison and analysis of dependence of C D on wind-wave parameters show that R B can fit the C D most appropriately.Wave age and wave steepness are not suitable to fit C D with a narrow range data set.When the value of wave age has a board range,R H is not suitable to fit C D either.Three relationships between C D and R B are integrated into the bulk algorithm COARE to calculate the observational friction velocity,and the results show that the relationship between C D and R B which is fitted with field data set can describe the momentum transfer in the open ocean,under low-moderate wind speed condition,most appropriately.  相似文献   

9.
Based on the theoretical high-order model with a dissipative term for non-linear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth, a 3-D mathematical model of non-linear wave propagation is presented. The model, which can be used to calculate the wave particle velocity and wave pressure, is suitable to the complicated topography whose relative depth ratio of the characteristic water depth to the characteristic wavelength in deep-water) is equal to or smaller than one. The governing equations are discretized with the improved 2-D Crank-Nicolson method in which the first-order derivatives are corrected by Taylor series expansion, .and the general boundary conditions with an arbitrary reflection coefficient and phase shift are adopted in the model. The surface elevation, horizontal and vertical velocity components and wave pressure of standing waves are numerically calculated. The results show that the numerical model can effectively simulate the complicated standing waves, and the general boundary conditions  相似文献   

10.
An efficient focusing model for generation of freak waves   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0  
Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves.  相似文献   

11.
一种新的非线性波浪周期概率分布   总被引:2,自引:1,他引:1  
张军  宋文鹏  葛勇 《海洋学报》2011,33(1):12-16
在最大熵原则的基础上,通过解一条件变分问题,导出一种新的适用于描述非线性波浪周期T统计分布的概率密度函数.这种概率分布有如下的优越性:(1)该分布的参数是由无因次周期的m(m为正数)阶分布矩得出,从而周期的信息熵达到最大,故适用于描述波浪周期的非线性;(2)该分布有4个参数,从而更能符合最大熵原则;(3)该分布形式简单...  相似文献   

12.
In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution. The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition. Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured. Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible.  相似文献   

13.
Nobuhito Mori   《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(2):165-175
The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory.  相似文献   

14.
为研究变浅作用下的非线性海浪,本文利用并矢相关谱估计方法,设计并进行了多种强度下,由深水传入近岸浪变浅作用下,列率谱和频率谱随水深和坡度变化的实验比较研究。  相似文献   

15.
在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加.  相似文献   

16.
利用实测和实验室数据分析了未破碎变浅海浪波面高度分布三阶矩(或波面偏度)相对于Hs/d的空间演化,利用本文的经验关系,在二阶近似下,给出了以Hs/d为参量的非线性波面表示模式,并推导了功率谱、二阶谱以及波面高度分布函数等特征量.文中还讨论了波面偏度和峰度的相关关系.  相似文献   

17.
风作用于水面产生风浪, 其中由于波流紊动产生的动量和能量的交换机制是一个很复杂的过程。风应力一般用来描述这种能量交换, 可以分为3个部分: 水面的剪切力、波生应力以及紊动应力。采用一种有效的非线性波流分离方法——NSFM(Nonlinear Stream Function Method)对波流运动的动量和能量输移进行定性描述。构造能够有效表达非线性波浪的解析流函数, 摄动求解使其满足拉普拉斯方程、动力边界条件和运动边界条件, 结合实验室风浪数据, 分离出波生速度场。通过交叉谱分析, 得到波生雷诺应力在不同风速下对风应力的贡献。结果表明: NSFM对不同工况条件下的风浪的处理具有较高的精度, 模型适应性良好; 且风速越大, 波生应力沿着水深衰减得越快, 且自由面波生应力在动量输移中的比重会逐渐减弱。  相似文献   

18.
孙孚,男,出生于1941年7月21日,山东青岛人,汉族。1961年于山东师范大学物理系毕业,1985年于山东海洋学院物理海洋专业获我国授予的第一个海洋学理学博士学位。此后曾以高级学者身份赴加拿大英属哥伦比亚大学访问。现任青岛海洋大学海洋环境学院院长兼国家教委物理海洋部门开放研究实验室主任,教授,博士生导师,山东省专业技术拔尖人才,国家有突出贡献的中、青年专家,享受国务院颁发的政府特殊津贴。主要从事海浪理论与应用的教学和研究工作,近10余年在《中国科学人《科学通报人《海洋与湖沼人《海洋学报人忡国海洋湖沼学报》(英…  相似文献   

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