共查询到19条相似文献，搜索用时 125 毫秒
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波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。 相似文献
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波浪破碎的模拟对于波浪模拟的准确性十分重要。为了解波浪破碎模型的问题,本文对抛物型缓坡方程和Boussinesq方程这2种波浪模型所采用的破碎方法进行比较和分析。运用基于Boussinesq方程的Funwave模型和基于抛物型缓坡方程的REF/DIF模型,分别对特拉华大学的未破碎圆形浅滩试验和作者于实验水槽进行的Undertow试验这2个物理模型进行波高模拟、比较与分析。模拟结果表明:Funwave和REF/DIF这2种波浪模型都能准确的模拟出波高随水深的变化情况,但对于波浪破碎后的情况,REF/DIF模型模拟的更为精确一些。 相似文献
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采用能量聚焦的方式产生深水破碎波,并通过增加输入波陡使发生不同强度的波浪破碎现象。实验中,沿水槽中心位置布置22个浪高仪,分析波浪传播过程中的波面演化特征。对水槽不同位置处波面数据进行波能谱与小波能谱分析,发现在聚焦波传播过程中,低频能量部分保持相对稳定,而一次谐波高频部分先逐渐拓宽,经过破碎区域后又逐渐恢复。能量在高频部分有所损失,这种现象在破碎时更加明显,且破碎强度越大,越显著。波浪未破碎时,由于波浪传播过程中高频部分拓宽,导致聚焦前后特征频率略有增加,特征群速和特征周期略有减小;当波浪破碎时,由于破碎导致的能量损失比较明显,且卷破时更加明显,导致破碎后特征频率减小,特征群速和特征周期增大。 相似文献
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结合椭圆型缓坡方程模拟近岸波流场 总被引：6，自引：3，他引：6
波浪向近岸传播的过程中,由波浪破碎效应所产生的近岸波流场是近岸海域关键的水动力学因素之一.结合近岸波浪场的椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波浪场及由斜向入射波浪破碎后所形成的近岸波流场进行了数值模拟.计算中考虑到波浪向近岸传播中由于波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应使局部复杂区域波向不易确定,采用结合椭圆型缓坡方程所给出的波浪辐射应力公式来计算波浪产生的辐射应力,在此基础上耦合椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波流场进行数值模拟,从而使模型综合考虑了波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应且避免了对波向角的直接求解,可以应用于相对较复杂区域的近岸波流场模拟. 相似文献
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在时域缓坡方程中,引入非线性修正项、高阶地形影响项以及能量耗散项,推导得出扩展型双曲缓坡方程。基于该方程,利用ADI格式建立波浪传播数学模型,并应用于椭圆形浅滩、Bragg反射正弦沙涟地形以及斜坡地形的波浪传播计算,计算结果与试验数据均吻合良好,表明该模型能够对近岸波浪的折射、绕射、反射、浅水变形、弱非线性、陡变地形影响以及破碎进行较好地模拟。 相似文献
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珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究 总被引：4，自引：1，他引：3
通过波浪水槽实验对珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演变规律开展研究,实验采用了概化的岸礁模型,测试了4种礁坪水深、4种礁前斜坡坡度和一系列入射波高的组合工况。对破碎带宽度和破碎带附近波浪的入射、反射、透射以及能量耗散进行了测量分析,透射波的计算考虑了礁坪上高次谐波的影响。结果表明:礁坪水深和入射深水波高的比值(即礁坪相对水深)是影响岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化的关键参数,而礁前斜坡坡度的影响在本文测量的范围内可以忽略不计。破碎带宽度与礁坪上浅水波波长为同一数量级,并与礁坪相对水深成反比;透射系数随礁坪相对水深的增大呈线性增长,而反射系数的变化却无类似规律;岸礁能够削弱超过50%入射波能,礁坪相对水深越小,波浪破碎造成的能量耗散越大。 相似文献
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A nearshore wave breaking model 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
ＡｎｅａｒｓｈｏｒｅｗａｖｅｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｍｏｄｅｌＬｉＳｈａｏｗｕ，ＷａｎｇＳｈａｎｇｙｉ，ＴｏｍｏｙａＳｈｉｂａｙａｍａ（ＲｅｃｅｉｕｅｄＯｃｔｏｂｅｒ８，１９９６；ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＦｅｂｒｕａｒｙ２６，１９９７）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ－Ａｗａｖｅｂ... 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(1):53-80
In this paper, a two-dimensional multi-scale turbulence model is proposed to study breaking waves. The purpose of developing this model is to produce a relatively accurate model with moderate computer requirements. The free surface is tracked by the VOF technique, the log-law profile for the mean velocity is applied at the bottom. Comparing with the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes models (RANS), the present model shows improving agreement with experimental measurements in terms of surface elevations, particle velocities, wave height distributions and undertow profiles. The subgrid scale (SGS) turbulent transport mechanism is also discussed in the paper. It is found that turbulent production and dissipation are of the same order, but turbulent production is primarily located at the wavefront and above the wave trough, whereas turbulent dissipation is primarily located at the back face of a wave, indicating that in these regions, the assumption of equilibrium is not correct. Below the trough level, the local equilibrium assumption is reasonable. Turbulent convection and diffusion are of the same order at the trough level. Above the trough level, turbulent convection dominates. Under the spilling breaking wave, turbulent kinetic energy is continue to dissipate in the bore region, whereas under the plunging breaking wave, the turbulent kinetic energy is dissipated very rapidly within one wave period. 相似文献
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海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍能量收支的影响 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
海浪破碎产生一向下输入的湍动能通量,在近海表处形成一湍流生成明显增加的次层,加强了海洋上混合层中的湍流垂向混合。为了研究海浪破碎对混合层中湍能量收支的影响,文中分析了海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍流生成的影响机制,采用垂向一维湍封闭混合模式,通过改变湍动能方程的上边界条件,引入了海浪破碎产生的湍动能通量,并分别对不同风速下海浪破碎的影响进行了数值研究,分析了混合层中湍能量收支的变化。当考虑海浪破碎影响时,近海表次层中的垂直扩散项和耗散项都有显著的增加,该次层中被耗散的湍动能占整个混合层中耗散的总的湍能量的92.0%,比无海浪破碎影响的结果增加了近1倍;由于平均流场切变减小,混合层中的湍流剪切生成减小了3.5%,形成一种存在于湍动能的耗散和垂直扩散之间的局部平衡关系。在该次层以下,局部平衡关系与壁层定律的结论一致,即湍动能的剪切生成与耗散相平衡。研究结果表明,海浪破碎在海表产生的湍动能通量影响了海洋上混合层中的各项湍能量收支间的局部平衡关系。 相似文献
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继第部分之后研究了惯性内波和近惯性内波由f～的作用所致的剪切不稳定引起的破碎机制。物理上,该机制很象存在由风应力所致薄表面涡旋漂流层时表面波的破碎与饱和过程。惯性内波和近惯性内波的破碎产物与小尺度湍流一起形成了混合块,它与Gregg等人(1986)的持久混合观测结果一致。依据Thorpe(1973)实验的结果作者提出了一个估计湍流动能耗散率和消衰时间的方法。结果表明,在剪切不稳定中近惯性内波在湍动耗散中起了关键作用,而惯性内波引起非常弱的湍动耗散。使用内波能量谱的标准总能量密度估计出的近惯性内波的耗散率和消衰时间与PATCHEX测量结果非常一致。文中还讨论了几个与此破碎机制有关的问题。 相似文献
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通过大尺度水槽波浪引起泥沙悬移的动床模型实验,研究了沙坝海岸破波带内水底悬沙浓度形成机理,通过比较时间平均水底悬沙浓度与时间平均水底波浪水质点动能或时间平均水底湍动能之间的相关性,论证了利用时间平均湍动能比利用时间平均波浪水质点动能计算时间平均水底悬沙浓度更为适用,并提出了以上时间平均水底悬沙浓度与水底湍动能之间的关系也可以用来近似表达时间变化的水底悬沙浓度与时间变化的水底湍动能之间的关系。研究针对规则波、波群和不规则波3种波浪形态进行,并分别对破波带内的爬坡区、内破波区和沙坝区3个区域实验结果进行讨论。 相似文献
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A laboratory study on the turbulence and wave energy dissipations of spilling breakers in a surf zone is presented. Instantaneous velocity fields of propagating breaking waves on a 1/20 slope were measured using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV). Due to the large region of the evolving wave breaking generated turbulent flow, seven PIV fields of view (FOVs) were mosaicked to form a continuous flow field in the surf zone. Mean and turbulence quantities were extracted by ensemble averaging 25 repeated instantaneous measurements at each FOV. New results for distribution and evolution of turbulent kinetic energy, mean flow energy, and total energy across the surf zone were obtained from analyzing the data. The turbulence dissipation rate was estimated based on several different approaches. It was found that the vertical distribution of the turbulence dissipation rate decays exponentially from the crest level to the bottom. The resulting energy budget and energy flux were also calculated. The calculated total energy dissipation rate was compared to that based on a bore approximation. It was found that the ratio of turbulence dissipation rate to total energy dissipation rate was about 0.01 in the outer surf zone and increased to about 0.1 after the breaking waves transformed into developed turbulent bores in the inner surf zone. 相似文献
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Numerical study on the characteristics of flow field and wave propagation near submerged breakwater on slope 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
In this study,characteristics of flow field and wave propagation near submerged breakwater on a sloping bed are investigated with numerical model. The governing equations of the vertical twodimensional model are Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes equations. The Reynolds stress terms are closed by a nonlinear k ε turbulence transportation model. The free surface is traced through the PILC-VOF method. The proposed numerical model is verified with experimental results. The numerical result shows that the wave profile may become more asymmetrical when wave propa-gates over breakwater. When wave crest propagates over breakwater,the anticlockwise vortex may generate. On the contrary,when wave hollow propagates over breakwater,the clockwise vortex may generate. Meanwhile,the influenced zone of vortex created by wave crest is larger than that created by wave hollow. All the maximum values of the turbulent kinetic energy,turbulent dissi-pation and eddy viscosity occur on the top of breakwater. Both the turbulent dissipation and eddy viscosity increase as the turbulent kinetic energy increases. Wave energy may rapidly decrease near the breakwater because turbulent dissipation increases and energy in lower harmonics is transferred into higher harmonics. 相似文献
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Energy dissipation in waves breaking on gentle slopes 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
M.J.F. Stive 《Coastal Engineering》1984,8(2):99-127
The flow field of waves breaking on a gently sloping beach is shown to closely resemble that of hydraulic jumps. This supports the use of the hydraulic jump formulation for the breaking wave energy dissipation. A correction to this formulation, which takes into account the effects of turbulent flow, is found to explain the observed discrepancies between the classical theoretical result and the experiments satisfactorily. These findings are used to propose a simple, semi-empirical model for the wave height decay which includes the set-up. The model is generalized to a wider range of wave conditions by analyzing published data. 相似文献
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波浪破碎过程产生的湍流动量和能量垂向输运对于加快海洋上混合层中垂向混合具有显著效果。采用二维实验室水槽中对波浪破碎过程进行模拟。对采集的波浪振幅时间序列采用希尔伯特变换定位破碎波位置,波浪的破碎率随有效波高的增加而增大,波浪谱分析得到的波浪基本周期与有效周期结果相似。实验中采用粒子图像测速技术(particle image velocimetry, PIV)计算波浪破碎过程中湍动能耗散率的空间分布。湍流强度与波浪的相位密切相关,波峰位置处湍流活动最为剧烈,而且波峰位置处湍流混合区内湍动能耗散率量值的垂向分布基本保持不变,即出现"湍流饱和"现象,湍流影响深度可以达到波高的70%—90%。计算湍流扩散系数的垂向分布发现,湍流扩散在混合区上部随深度的增大以指数函数的形式增加,在混合区下部趋于稳定。作为对比,在相同位置处对声学多普勒流速测量仪(acoustic Doppler velocimeter, ADV)测量的单点流速做频谱分析,发现与该位置处PIV湍动能耗散率结果量级处于同一水平,进一步验证了实验结果的准确性。 相似文献