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1.
Based on the theoretical high-order model with a dissipative term for non-linear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth, a 3-D mathematical model of non-linear wave propagation is presented. The model, which can be used to calculate the wave particle velocity and wave pressure, is suitable to the complicated topography whose relative depth ratio of the characteristic water depth to the characteristic wavelength in deep-water) is equal to or smaller than one. The governing equations are discretized with the improved 2-D Crank-Nicolson method in which the first-order derivatives are corrected by Taylor series expansion, .and the general boundary conditions with an arbitrary reflection coefficient and phase shift are adopted in the model. The surface elevation, horizontal and vertical velocity components and wave pressure of standing waves are numerically calculated. The results show that the numerical model can effectively simulate the complicated standing waves, and the general boundary conditions  相似文献   

2.
A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents.  相似文献   

3.
4.
Wave absorbing structures have been widely applied in many countries. In the present paper, the wave heights in front of a vertical wave absorbing structure with rubble foundation as well as in the wave chamber of the structure are analysed using an approximative calculation method, and the dissipating effect of the structure is verified. On the basis of the results of regular waves, the relative wave heights of irregular waves in front of the wave absorbing structure as well as in the chamber have also been analysed.  相似文献   

5.
A numerical model is developed that can predict the interaction of regular waves normally incident upon a curtainwall-pile breakwater; the upper part of which is a vertical wall and the lower part consists of an array of vertical piles. The numerical model is based on an eigenfunction expansion method, and utilizes a boundary condition nearby the vertical piles that accounts for wave energy dissipation. Numerical solution comprises a finite number of terms, which is a superposition of propagating waves and a series of evanescent waves. The modeling is validated by comparison with previous experimental studies and overall agreement between measurement and calculation is fairly good. The numerical results are related to reflection, transmission, and dissipation coefficient; wave run-up, wave force, and wave overturning moment are also presented. Effect of porosity, relative draft, and relative water depth are discussed; the choice of suitable range of them is described. The relative draft is more effective for shallow water waves. Model shows decrease in relative draft and leads to reduction of relative wave force, overturning moment, and runup. It is shown that curtainwall-pile breakwaters can operate both effectively and efficiently in the range of relative draft between 0.15 and 0.75. The range 0.5 to 0.2 is also recommended for porosity.  相似文献   

6.
Numerical Wave Channel with Absorbing Wave-Maker   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
The numerical wave channel has been developed based on the volume of fluid method (VOF) in conjunction with the Navier-Stokes equations. The absorbing wave-maker boundary on the left side of the channel is presented by prescribing velocity reference to linear wave-maker theory. The principle of which is that the numerical wave-maker is designed to move in a way that generates the required incident wave and cancels out any reflected wave that reach it at the same time. On the right side of the channel, the open boundary is set to permit incident waves to be transmitted freely. The parametric studies have been carried out at a range of ratios of water depth to wave length d/ L from 0.124 to 0.219, with wave height in the front of paddle/water depth ratio (H0 / d) from 0.1 to 0.3. Wave height, wave pressure distribution along the channel and velocity field are obtained for both open boundary condition and reflective boundary condition at the other end of the channel. For a reflective case, it is shown that  相似文献   

7.
The reflection coefficient and the total horizontal forces of regular waves acting on theperforated caisson are experimentally investigated. The empirical relationship between reflection coefficient and the ratio of the total horizontal forces acting on the perforated caisson to those on solid vertical walls with the relative chamber width, relative water depth and porosity of perforated wall, etc. are given. Moreover, the results of the ratio of the total horizontal forces are also compared with formulas given by Chinese Harbour Design Criteria and Takahashi, which may be useful for the practical engineering application.  相似文献   

8.
Studies of the breaking criteria for solitary waves on a slope are presented in this paper. The boundary element method is used to model the processes of shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on various slopes. Empirical formulae that can be used to characterize the breaking of solitary waves are presented. These include the breaking index, the wave height, the water depth, and the maximum particle velocity at the point of breaking. Comparisons with the results of other researches are given.  相似文献   

9.
An analytical method is developed for the study of the wave defending effects of the V-type bottom-mounted breakwater. The breakwater is assumed to be rigid, thin, impermeable and vertically located in water of constant depth. The fluid domain is divided into three sub-regions by an imaginary interface. The velocity potential in each region is expanded by eigenfunctions. By satisfying the corresponding boundary conditions and matching conditions in and between sub-regions, a set of hnear algebraic equations can be obtained to determine the unknown coetfficients for the eigenfunction expansions for each sub-region. The accuracy of the present model is verified by a comparison with existing results for the case of an isolated breakwater. Numerical results, in the form of contour maps of the relative wave amplitude around the breakwater, are presented for a range of wave and breakwater parameters. The results show that the V-type bottommounted breakwater is generally effective in defending against waves. In general, the wave height in the protected area is about 20-50 percent of the incident wave height.  相似文献   

10.
High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of va-rying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article.First,the formal derivations toany high order of μ(=h/λ,depth to deep-water wave length ratio)and ε(=α/h,wave amplitude todepth ratio)for velocity potential,particle velocity vector,pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations forsurface elevation η and horizontal velocity vector U at any given level in water are given.Then,the exactexplicit expressions to the fourth order of μ are derived.Finally,the linear solutions of η,U,C(phase ce-lerity)and C_g(group velocity)for a constant water depth are obtained.Compared with the Airy theory,excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth.The present high-ordermodels are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth(from shal-low to deep)and bottom slope(from mild to steep).  相似文献   

11.
Yong Liu  Yu-cheng Li  Bin Teng 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(17-18):2364-2373
This study examines the hydrodynamic performance of a new perforated-wall breakwater. The breakwater consists of a perforated front wall, a solid back wall and a submerged horizontal porous plate installed between them. The horizontal porous plate enhances the stability and wave-absorbing capacity of the structure. An analytical solution based on linear potential theory is developed for the interaction of water waves with the new proposed breakwater. According to the division of the structure, the whole fluid domain is divided into three sub-domains, and the velocity potential in each domain is obtained using the matched eigenfunction method. Then the reflection coefficient and the wave forces and moments on the perforated front wall and the submerged horizontal porous plate are calculated. The numerical results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as previous predictions for a perforated-wall breakwater with a submerged horizontal solid plate [Yip, T.L., Chwang, A.T., 2000. Perforated wall breakwater with internal horiontal plate. Journal of Engineering Mechanics ASCE 126 (5), 533–538] and a vertical wall with a submerged horizontal porous plate [Wu, J.H., Wan, Z.P., Fang, Y., 1998. Wave reflection by a vertical wall with a horizontal submerged porous plate. Ocean Engineering 25 (9), 767–779]. Numerical results show that with suitable geometric porosity of the front wall and horizontal plate, the reflection coefficient will be always rather small if the relative wave absorbing chamber width (distance between the front and back walls versus incident wavelength) exceeds a certain small value. In addition, the wave force and moment on the horizontal plate decrease significantly with the increase of the plate porosity.  相似文献   

12.
Interaction of oblique waves with infinite number of perforated caissons   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
An analytic solution based on the division of the fluid domain is developed for the interaction of obliquely incident waves with infinite number of perforated caissons. The whole fluid domain is firstly divided into infinite sub-domains according to the division of structures, and subsequently eigenfunction expansion is employed to represent the velocity potential in each domain. A phase relation is utilized for the analysis of wave oscillation in each caisson, and the character of structure geometry is considered in setting up the mathematical model of reflection waves. The reflection waves from the present analysis include many propagation waves traveling in different directions when the incident wave frequency is high. Benchmark examinations show that the continuous condition of water particle velocity is satisfied at the front walls of caissons, and the reflection coefficients keep agreement with the energy conservation relation very well when porous effect parameter is infinite. Numerical results show that the reflection coefficients of obliquely incident waves are smaller when the length of caissons is shorter at low frequency. The wave reflection coefficients and the wave forces normal to caissons decrease and the wave forces along caissons increase with the increase of the wave incident angle.  相似文献   

13.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(4):331-351
The development of an analytic model (Axisymmetric 3-D Step Model) for the propagation of linear water waves over an axisymmetric bathymetric anomaly in arbitrary water depth is presented. The Axisymmetric 3-D Step Model is valid in a region of uniform depth containing an axisymmetric bathymetric anomaly with gradual transitions in depth allowed as a series of steps approximating arbitrary slopes. The velocity potential is calculated by applying matching conditions at the interface between regions of constant depth. The velocity potential obtained determines the wave field in the domain for monochromatic incident waves of linear form. A second analytic model (3-D Shallow Water Exact Model) is developed for comparison within the shallow water limit.The Axisymmetric 3-D Step Model determines the wave transformation caused by the processes of wave refraction, diffraction and reflection. Wave transformation is demonstrated in plots of the relative amplitude for bathymetric anomalies in the form of pit or a shoal, highlighting areas of wave sheltering and wave focusing. Anomalies of constant volume, but variable cross-section are employed to isolate the effect of the transition slope on the wave transformation.Comparisons to a shallow water model, numerical models, and experimental data verify the results of the Axisymmetric 3-D Step Model for several bathymetries including both pits and shoals. Also included are estimates of the energy reflection induced by an axisymmetric depth anomaly. The 3-D Axisymmetric Step Model has been applied previously to account for nearshore transformation (sloping bathymetry) and associated shoreline changes [C.J. Bender, R.G. Dean, Coastal Engineering 51 (2004) 1143].  相似文献   

14.
A method for filtering inertia-gravity waves from elevation and depth-averaged velocity is described. This filtering scheme is derived from the linear shallow water equations for constant depth and constant Coriolis frequency. The filtered solution is obtained by retaining only the eigenvectors corresponding to the geostrophic equilibrium and by discarding explicitly the eigenvectors corresponding to the fast moving inertia-gravity waves. An alternative formulation is derived using a variational approach. Both filtering methods are tested numerically for a periodic domain with constant depth and the variational approach is implemented for a closed domain with large topographic variations. The filtering methods significantly reduce the amplitudes of the inertia-gravity waves while preserving the mean flow. The variational method is compared to the Incremental Analysis Update technique and the benefits of the variational filter are presented.  相似文献   

15.
We consider a plane problem of generation of surface and internal waves in a bounded rotating basin of variable depth by a front of atmospheric pressure moving over the basin. The fluid is assumed to be two-layer. The system of nonlinear long-wave equations is solved numerically by the method of finite differences for the distribution of depths corresponding to a zonal section of the Black-Sea basin. It is shown that the baric front moving over the basin generates barotropic and baroclinic oscillations of the fluid. The intensity of disturbances depends on the velocity of motion and the width of the front. There exists a velocity of motion of the front for which internal waves are generated especially efficiently. When the front leaves the basin, we observe the formation of a packet of internal waves propagating from one lateral boundary of the basin to the other boundary with reflections from the boundaries.  相似文献   

16.
Quadrant front face pile supported breakwater is a combination of semicircular and closely spaced pile breakwaters which couples the advantages of these two types. This type of structure consists of two parts. The bottom portion consists of closely spaced piles and the top portion consists of a quadrant solid front face on the seaside. The leeward side of the top portion with a vertical face would facilitate the berthing of vessels. An experimental investigation on this breakwater model in a wave flume is carried out for three water depths. For each water depth, three different spacings between the piles were adopted for the investigation. The dynamic pressures exerted along the quadrant front face due to regular waves were measured. The variation of dimensionless pressures with respect to scattering parameter for different gap ratio (spacing between the piles/diameter of pile) and for relative pile depth (water depth/pile height) are presented and discussed. In addition, the dimensionless total forces exerted on the breakwater model as well as its reflection characteristics as a function of scattering parameter are reported.  相似文献   

17.
基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE建立了高精度二维数值波浪水槽,采用日本2011年实测真实海啸波型系统研究了海啸波在岛礁上传播变形的规律,并且分析了波高、礁坪淹没水深和礁前斜坡坡度等因素对孤立波和真实海啸传播变形的影响。结果表明,相比孤立波,类海啸波的波长明显大于孤立波波长,在测点处引起的水面变化持续时间更长,同等波高情况下真实海啸波型比孤立波能够携带更多的能量,与岛礁的相互作用也更为复杂,在礁坪上形成的淹没水深约为孤立波的两倍。礁前斜坡坡度和礁坪淹没水深均对类海啸波的反射和透射系数有显著影响。随着礁前斜坡坡度的增加,反射系数和透射系数均逐渐增加。随着礁坪淹没水深的增加,反射系数逐渐减小,而透射系数逐渐增大。但是,反射系数和透射系数均随着入射波高的增加而逐渐减小。  相似文献   

18.
Semigeostrophic gravity waves associated with a coastal boundary current, which has finite and uniform potential vorticity and is bounded away from the coastline by a density front on the ocean surface, are investigated. It is shown that the semigeostrophic coastal current has two waves which are named here the Semigeostrophic Coastal Wave (SCW) and the Semigeostrophic Frontal Wave (SFW). The SCW becomes an elementary Kelvin wave at some limit while the SFW is caused by the existence of the surface density front. The SCW appears mainly as variations in the upper layer depth at the coast and as alongshore velocity at the density front. On the other hand, the SFW appears mainly as variations in the width of the current. When the weak nonlinearity and ageostrophic effect are included, these semigeostrophic gravity waves satisfy the Kortweg- de Vries equation, which suggests that the local changes in the width and/or velocity of the semigeostrophic coastal current propagate as wave-like disturbances.  相似文献   

19.
Efficient computation method for two-dimensional nonlinear waves   总被引:2,自引:2,他引:0  
I~IOWNUmerics wave tank is a ~ tOOl by which variouS nonlinear wave - ac interactionpwhleln can be treated in time domain. As the face stage, we f~ our efforts on the devious of an effita saution tee~ of fully nofor waves. aam numtried of water - wavesconnected PwhlemS, es~ in a wave tank, is alwayS comas Of PartS: wave generation, P~ and a~. The effi~ Of a nUm~ wave tankdepends not Only on the qwhty Of the wave abotion tecboaue, which allowS the lOng times~ and keePS finite tank leng…  相似文献   

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