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1.
Relationship between the non-dimensional roughness length and inverse of wave age has been discussed without consideration of wave directions, though wind wave field consists of various directional component waves. In this study we observe wave heights by an array of four wave gauges at the Hiratsuka Tower of (Independent Administrative Institution) National Research Institute for Earth Science and Disaster Prevention (NIED), Japan, and discuss the effect of wave directionality. As a result, the data sets were classified into two different groups according to the directional wave spectrum distribution. In case 1 only swell and wind waves exist and in case 2 there exist wave components from several directions. It is shown that the case of multiple-directional component waves (case 2) may affect the non-dimensional roughness length and friction velocity.  相似文献   

2.
The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves were studied at two locations along the eastern Arabian Sea during 2011. Wave spectra were single-peaked from June to October and predominantly double-peaked during the rest of the year. Even though both locations were subjected to open sea conditions, the percentage of single-peaked spectra was large (63 %) in the southern location compared to a location 350 km north (46 %), because of variation in local winds. Throughout the year, the double-peaked spectra were mostly swell dominated in the southern location. In the northern location, the double-peaked spectra during January to May and December were sea dominated due to the strong local winds blowing from north-west. For the double-peaked wave spectra, the average difference between the spectral peaks was 0.11 Hz, and the average ratio of the spectral energy density at the two peaks was 0.5. Significant wave heights up to 4.2 m and a maximum wave height of 7 m were observed during the south-west monsoon period. Fifty per cent of the waves recorded had spectral peak wave periods between 6 and 12 s. The narrowest directional spectra were found for waves with 10–12-s peak wave periods. Inverse wave age values were biased towards lower values with peaks in the range of 0.2–0.6, indicating a swell-driven wave regime along the eastern Arabian Sea.  相似文献   

3.
A bottom-mounted Recording Doppler Current Profiler was placed at an offshore location (depth of 34 m) in the southeast Chukchi Sea, Alaska, from July through December 2007 (UTC) with the objective of linking observed wave activity—wind-sea and swells—to their synoptic drivers. A total of 47 intervals of elevated wave state were recorded: 29 exceeding 1 m significant wave height (SWH), 16 exceeding 2 m SWH, and 3 m exceeded on two occasions; during one of those, a SWH of 4 m was observed. Detailed analysis of the two large events, including comparison with high-resolution reanalysis wind data (North America Regional Reanalysis), showed wave direction from the east, varied about 15° to the north (counterclockwise) from the wind direction, and current flow in the opposite direction (from the west). This is thought to be the influence of a strong “wind-sea” presence. Regarding classic wave limitations, although the SE Chukchi Sea is a large embayment bordered by land to the east, fetch limitations from the northeast and southeast did not appear to be a constraint for the wind speeds indicated by reanalysis. These two events appeared to be driven by winds associated with cyclonic systems that moved into the eastern Bering Sea and stalled. Examination of smaller waves associated with these events suggested that waves of 1.5 m SWH or less are likely part of another regime and can either be swell or wind-sea, moving in from the open Chukchi Sea to the northwest or through the Bering Strait to the south.  相似文献   

4.
The Jeddah coast lies in the central eastern Red Sea, which is characterized by the predominant northwest winds and the associated wind waves throughout the year. A detailed investigation on the spectral wave characteristics in the nearshore regions of the Jeddah coast has not been carried out yet, primarily due to the lack of data. In the present study, we have analyzed the available wave spectra measured at two nearshore locations along the Jeddah coast using wave gauges. The wave spectra were separated into wind sea and swell components using a frequency-based algorithm, and the integral wave parameters corresponding to each component were derived. Although the measurements were limited to the summer season, notable features such as the diurnal variability and the superimposition of wind seas and swells have been identified from the spectra. The superimposition is mainly due to the interaction of the young swells propagated from the northern Red Sea and the local breezes prevailing along the coast at certain periods in a diurnal cycle. Based on the wave speed calculations and the estimated time shifts between the wind and waves, the potential swell regions have been backtracked.  相似文献   

5.
《Sedimentology》2018,65(2):461-491
Gravelly beach ridges, which are formed solely by swash processes, may accurately reflect past wave conditions. The thickness (or height) of a gravelly beach ridge approximately equals the height of wave inundation, which is the sum of the surge and wave run‐up. Their ancient counterparts, if well‐preserved and identified, can be used to estimate palaeowave conditions, which can later be converted to palaeowind intensities based on wind–wave relationships. A technique is described for estimating the palaeowind speed in this paper, which is referred to as the gravelly beach‐ridge thickness technique. By comparing these estimates with instrumental wind records obtained at a modern lake, Qinghai Lake in north‐western China, the beach‐ridge thickness technique is shown to be useful for estimating the average wind speed (V avg). When applying this method to ancient fetch‐limited basins, five parameters are necessary: (i) the thickness of the isolated gravelly beach ridge; (ii) the average depth of the water body; (iii) the palaeofetch; (iv) the angle between the palaeowind direction and the normal to the shoreline; and (v) the particle size. This technique was applied to an ancient example in the Eocene Dongying Depression, located in eastern China. The results indicate that the average wind speed of the northern wind ranged between 2·27 m sec−1 and 8·36 m sec−1 from 45·0 Ma to 42·0 Ma, and displayed a generally decreasing trend that included early strengthening followed by weakening and later strengthening during this period. The beach‐ridge thickness technique provides a new perspective on delineating palaeowind conditions and can be applied to ancient fetch‐limited basins with gravelly beach ridges worldwide. Generally, if a water body is sufficiently large (fetch exceeding 40 km), deep (average depth exceeding 10 m) and waves (or winds) are determined to approach the shoreline with high angles (angle of incidence <35°), then the calculation errors will be small to negligible.  相似文献   

6.
Measurements of sand transport by wind on a natural beach   总被引：6，自引：0，他引：6  
Bagnold's (1954) and Kawamura's (1951) formulae may be used for the calculation of the sand movement on a natural beach, provided the shear stress velocity U* > 0·D4 m/s. Great discrepancies have been found between calculated and measured sand transport rates for U* < 0·D4 m/s, mainly because of the capillary forces acting on a wet beach. The measured critical shear velocity U*c at the beginning of sand movement on a clean dry beach agrees very well with that predicted by Bagnold's formula. On a dry beach where the sand grains are stuck together, U*c was found to be about 10% higher. On a wet beach U*c appeared to depend on the moisture content of the surface layer. Grain size is a determining parameter in the U*c-moisture content relation. When the angle a between the wind direction at sea and the dune face is between 15° and 85° the streamlines of the wind will bend in the vicinity of the dune face. In consequence this may influence the direction of sediment movement.  相似文献   

7.
A 4·7 km2 field of sediment waves occurs in front of the Slims River delta in Kluane Lake, the largest lake in the Yukon Territory. Slims River heads in the Kaskawulsh Glacier, part of the St Elias Ice Field and discharges up to 400 m3 s?1 of water with suspended sediment concentrations of up to 7 g l?1. The 19 km long sandur of Slims River was created in the past 400 years since Kaskawulsh Glacier advanced and dammed the lake and the sandur has advanced into Kluane Lake at an average rate of 48 m a?1. However, this rate is decreasing as flow is diverted from Slims River because of the retreat of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. The sandur and a road constructed on the delta remove coarse‐grained sediment, so the river delivers dominantly mud to the lake. Inflow during summer generates quasi‐continuous turbidity currents with velocities up to 0·6 m s?1. The front of the delta consists of a plane surface sloping lakeward at 0·0188 (1·08°). A field of sediment waves averaging 130 m in length and 2·3 m in amplitude has developed on this surface. Slopes on the waves vary from ?0·067 (?3·83°, i.e. sloping in the opposite direction to the regional slope) to 0·135 (7·69°). The internal structure of the sediment waves, as documented by seismic profiling, shows that sedimentation on the stoss portion of the wave averages 2·7 times that on the lee portion. Rates of sediment accumulation in the wave field are about 0·3 m a?1, so these lacustrine waves have formed in a much shorter period of time (less than 200 years) and are advancing upslope towards the delta much more quickly (1 to 2 m a?1) than typical marine sediment waves. These waves formed on the flat surface of the lake floor, apparently in the absence of pre‐existing forms, and they are altered and destroyed as the wave field advances and the characteristics of the turbidity currents change.  相似文献   

8.
Two bottom-mounted recording Doppler current profilers (RDCP) were deployed at nearshore locations (approximately 3 and 8 km offshore, in about 18 m water depth) in the southeast Chukchi Sea, Alaska, from October 2009 to September 2010 (UTC) with the goal of linking observed wave activity—wind-sea and swells—to their synoptic drivers. The northerly RDCP recorded a total of 16 events of elevated wave states: 15 exceeding 1 m significant wave height (SWH), and 1 exceeding 2 m SWH. The southerly RDCP recorded a total of 25 events of elevated wave states: 23 exceeding 1 m SWH, 2 m exceeded on two occasions and a SWH of 3 m was observed. Detailed analysis of the three large events (i.e., SWH events ≥2 m), including comparison with high-resolution reanalysis wind data (North America regional reanalysis), strongly suggested the wave energy evolved from a distant storm and would be defined as swell. Due to the close proximity of the shoreline to the east of the instruments, wind speeds based on reanalysis were constrained so fetch was westerly. Wave direction was also westerly, varying about 25° to the north (clockwise) or the south (counterclockwise) from the wind direction which is believed to be influenced by fetch and the strong current flow located where the nearshore RDCPs were deployed. Shore-fast sea ice is also believed to play a role but shown to only dampen wave activity for 3 months (January–April 2010), thus implying early ice breakup in this nearshore region. Two events appeared to be driven by southwesterly winds associated with cyclonic systems that moved into the eastern Chukchi Sea and then stalled. However, the second storm event appeared to be driven by northwesterly winds associated with a cyclonic system over the Brooks Range, a less common occurrence. Given that the typical storm activity in the region occurs as storms move into the Bering Sea in fall, this represents another potential source for wave conditions posing danger to people on the water or to coastal infrastructure.  相似文献   

9.
Impact of sea breeze on wind-seas off Goa, west coast of India   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
After withdrawal of the Indian Summer Monsoon and until onset of the next monsoon, i.e., roughly during November–May, winds in the coastal regions of India are dominated by sea breeze. It has an impact on the daily cycle of the sea state near the coast. The impact is quite significant when large scale winds are weak. During one such event, 1–15 April 1997, a Datawell directional waverider buoy was deployed in 23 m water depth off Goa, west coast of India. Twenty-minute averaged spectra, collected once every three hours, show that the spectrum of sea-breeze-related ‘wind-seas’ peaked at 0.23 ±0.05 Hz. These wind-seas were well separated from swells of frequencies less than 0.15 Hz. The TMA spectrum (Bouwset al 1985) matched the observed seas spectra very well when the sea-breeze was active and the fetch corresponding to equilibrium spectrum was found to be 77±43 km during such occasions. We emphasize on the diurnal cycle of sea-breeze-related sea off the coast of Goa and write an equation for the energy of the seas as a function of the local wind  相似文献   

10.
Information on reflected surface gravity waves from the shoreline is required for understanding the coastal hydrodynamics. We have quantified the reflected swells (frequency band 0.045–0.12 Hz) from the west and east coast of India based on the spectral wave data derived from the directional waverider buoys. Reflection coefficient, ratio of the reflected and incident spectral energy, was used to quantify the reflected waves. Influence of the seasons, cyclone, relative depth, land/sea breeze, tides and tidal current on the reflected waves were examined. For the locations off the west coast of India, seasons have large impact on the reflection coefficient and were relatively less during the monsoon season due to the increase in incident wave energy. Locations off the east coast of India show almost the same reflection coefficient throughout the year and have no significant seasonal variations. The reflection coefficient off Puducherry was higher than that for other locations due to the low incident wave energy. The reflection coefficient was low during the cyclone period, but the reflected energy during cyclone was higher than that during the normal condition due to the high incident wave energy. High-energy reflected waves show large variation with tide due to the trapping and dissipation of reflected wave by bottom friction and this effect cause low reflection in deep water location than shallow water location. The reflection coefficient decreases with increase in relative depth off west coast of India.  相似文献   

11.
The threshold of motion of non-fragmented mollusc shells was studied for the first time under oscillatory flow. In this regard, flume experiments were used to investigate the threshold of motion of three bivalve and three gastropod species, two typical mollusc classes of coastal coquina deposits. The sieve diameters ranged from 2·0 to 15·9 mm. These experiments were performed on a flat-bottom setup under regular non-breaking waves (swell) produced by a flap-type wave generator. The critical Shields values for each species of mollusc were plotted against the sieve and nominal diameter. Moreover, the dimensionless Corey shape factor of the shells was evaluated in order to investigate the effect of mollusc shell shapes on the threshold of motion. According to their critical Shields parameter, the mollusc threshold data under oscillatory flow present smaller values than the siliciclastic sediments when considering their sieve diameter. In addition, the mollusc datasets are below the empirical curves built from siliciclastic grain data under current and waves. When considering the nominal diameter, the critical Shields parameter increases and the mollusc data are closer to siliciclastic sediments. Bivalves, which have a flat-concave shape (form factor: 0·27 to 0·37), have a higher critical Shields parameter for smaller particles and more uniform datasets than the gastropod scattered data, which have a rounded shape (form factor: 0·58 to 0·62) and have varied morphologies (ellipsoidal, conical and cubic). The comparison between previous current-driven threshold data of bioclastic sediment motion and the data of mollusc whole shells under oscillatory flow shows a fair correlation on the Shields diagram, in which all datasets are below the mean empirical curves for siliciclastic sediments. These findings indicate that the shape effect on the transport initiation is predominant for smaller shells. The use of the nominal diameter is satisfactory to improve the bioclastic and siliciclastic data correlation.  相似文献   

12.
Coastal boulder deposits and chevrons are two features whose origin have triggered controversial discussions. Boulders are often used as indicators of past tsunamis and storms, with the former interpretation in many cases preferred due to the clast size. Chevrons, defined as large parabolic sand bodies, were previously attributed to (mega-)tsunami, potentially caused by oceanic impacts, because of their dimensions, height above sea level and alignment of the central axis. This study documents that chevrons along the Quobba coast in Western Australia are parabolic dunes and not related to tsunami inundation; their age is consistent with an arid period at about 3·9 to 2·3 ka when the sea level was 1 to 2 m higher than today. The internal age distribution proves an inland migration. Weakly developed soil horizons represent phases of intermittent dune stabilization and later reactivation. The calculated velocities required for wind transport and the prevailing wind directions are consistent with on-site meteorological parameters. The boulders at Quobba are most likely to be remnants of in situ platform denudation that produces shell hash, coral clasts and boulders. An unknown portion of the boulders was certainly moved by tropical cyclones. A previously proposed tsunami origin is unsustainable because the observed features can be explained by processes other than tsunamis. Boulders were tilted during gravitative platform collapse, standing water caused dissolution of the boulder bottoms, creating ‘pseudo-rockpools’, consequently not applicable as upside-down criteria, and ages of attached encrusting organisms document their colonization at higher sea level and (sub)recent frequent inundation by wave splash during rough seas.  相似文献   

13.
Creep and saltation are the primary modes of surface transport involved in the fluid‐like movement of aeolian sands. Although numerous studies have focused on saltation, few studies have focused on creep, primarily because of the experimental difficulty and the limited amount of theoretical information available on this process. Grain size and its distribution characteristics are key controls on the modes of sand movement and their transport masses. Based on a series of wind tunnel experiments, this paper presents new data regarding the saltation flux, obtained using a flat sampler, and on the creeping mass, obtained using a specifically designed bed trap, associated with four friction velocities (0·41, 0·47, 0·55 and 0·61 m sec?1). These data yielded information regarding creeping and saltating sand grains and their particle size characteristics at various heights, which led to the following conclusions: (i) the creeping masses increased as a power function (q = ?1·02 + 14·19u*3) of friction wind velocities, with a correlation (R2) of 0·95; (ii) the flux of aeolian sand flow decreases exponentially with increasing height (q = a exp(–z/b)) and increases as a power function (q = ?26·30 + 428·40 u*3) of the friction wind velocity; (iii) the particle size of creeping sand grains is ca 1·15 times of the mean diameter of salting sand grains at a height of 0 to 2 cm, which is 1·14 times of the mean diameter of sand grains in a bed; and (iv) the mean diameter of saltating sand grains decreases rapidly with increasing height whereas, while at a given height, the mean diameter of saltating sand grains is positively correlated with the friction wind velocity. Although these results require additional experimental validation, they provide new information for modelling of aeolian sand transport processes.  相似文献   

14.
In the early stages of wave growth it is seen that wave heights are underestimated by presently available models especially in a low wind regime. Parametric wind-sea relationships of significant wave height (H2) and zero-crossing period (T 2) for slight to moderate sea-states were proposed earlier on an analysis of wind and wave data. This model is based on the concept of time delay between the wind speed (U) and wave evolution process. It is simple and requires less computational effort compared to the spectral method. The present paper attempts to test and evaluate the performance of the proposed model with additional field data of wind and waves measured off the Indian coast. MeasuredU,H 2, andT 2 ranged between 1 and 15 m/s, 0·5 and 2·7 m and 4 and 10 s respectively. By and large, the comparison between model output and field observations are encouraging. A hindcast study was carried out earlier using a spectral wave prediction model (TOHOKU) for Indian Seas using field measurements which include the data sets utilized in this study. Comparison between these two models reveals a good agreement.  相似文献   

15.
This study analyses the three‐dimensional geometry of sedimentary features recorded on the modern sea floor and in the shallow subsurface of a shelf to upper slope region offshore Australia that is characterized by a pronounced internal wave regime. The data interpreted comprise an extensive, >12 500 km2 industrial three‐dimensional seismic‐reflection survey that images the northern part of the Browse Basin, Australian North West Shelf. The most prominent seismic–morphological features on the modern sea floor are submarine terrace escarpments, fault‐scarps and incised channels, as well as restricted areas of seismic distortion interpreted as mass wasting deposits. Besides these kilometre‐scale sea floor irregularities, smaller bedforms were discovered also, including a multitude of sediment waves with a lateral extent of several kilometres and heights up to 10 m. These sedimentological features generally occur in extensive fields in water depths below 250 m mostly at the foot of submerged terraces, along the scarps of modern faults and along the shelf break between the outer shelf and the upper continental rise. Additional bedforms that characterize the more planar regions of the outer shelf are elongate, north‐west/south‐east oriented furrows and ridges. The formation of both sediment waves and furrow‐ridge systems requires flow velocities between 0·3 m sec?1 and 1·5 m sec?1, which could be generated by oceanic currents, gravity currents or internal waves. In the studied setting, these velocities can be best explained as being generated by bottom currents induced by internal waves, an interpretation that is discussed against oceanographic background data and modelling results. In addition to the documentation of three‐dimensional seismic–geomorphological features of the modern sea floor, it was also possible to map kilometre‐scale buried sediment wave fields in the seismic volume down to ca 500 ms two‐way‐time below the present sea floor, indicating the general potential for the preservation of such bedforms in the sedimentary record.  相似文献   

16.
Kinetic energy exchange equations (Saltzman 1957) in wave number domain are partitioned into standing, transient and standing-transient components following Murakami (1978, 1981). These components are computed for the 1991 summer monsoon using dailyu andv grid point data at 2.5° latitude-longitude interval between the equator and 40°N at 200 hPa and 850 hPa levels for the period June through August. The data are obtained from NCMRWF, New Delhi. The study shows that at 200 hPa wave number 1 over Region 3 (30°N to 40°N), wave number 2 over Region 2 (15°N to 30°N) and wave number 3 over Region 1 (equator to 15°N) dominate the spectrum of transport of momentum and wave to zonal mean flow interaction. Wave number 1 over Region 1 and Region 3 and wave number 2 over Region 2 are the major sources of kinetic energy to other waves via wave-to-wave interaction. At 850 hPa wave number 1 over Region 3 has maximum contribution in the spectrum of transport of momentum and kinetic energy and more than 90% of its contribution is from the standing component. This indicates that standing wave number 1 over Region 3 plays a very important role in the dynamics of monsoon circulation of the lower troposphere. The study further shows that although the circulation patterns at 200 hPa and 850 hPa levels are opposite in character, a number of energy processes exhibit a similar character at these levels. For example, (i) transport of momentum by most of the waves is northward, (ii) small scale eddies intensify northward, (iii) eddies are sources of kinetic energy to zonal mean flow over Region 1 and (iv) standing eddies are sources of kinetic energy to transient eddies. Besides the above similarities some contrasting energy processes are also observed. Over Region 2 and Region 3 standing and transient eddies are sources of kinetic energy to zonal mean flow at 200 hPa, while at 850 hPa the direction of exchange of kinetic energy is opposite i.e. zonal mean flow is a source of kinetic energy to standing as well as transient eddies. L(n) interaction indicates that at 200 hPa waves over R2 maintain waves over R1, while at 850 hPa waves over R1 maintain waves over R2. It has been found that the north-south gradient of zonal mean of zonal wind is the deciding factor of wave to zonal mean flow interaction.  相似文献   

17.
Boundary Bay tidal flats on the inactive southern flank of the Fraser Delta have surface sediments consisting almost entirely of very fine to fine, well to very well sorted sands which show a gradual fining-shorewards trend. Five floral/sedimentological zones form distinct biofacies. These are, from the shoreline seaward, the saltmarsh, algal mat, upper sand wave, eelgrass and lower sand wave zones. The lower limit of the saltmarsh lies at a constant level above which the maximum duration of continuous exposure rises abruptly from ～ 12 to 40 days. Similarly, at the lower limit of the algal mat zone the maximum duration of continuous exposure jumps from 1 to ～ 2 days, and at the upper limit of the eelgrass zone from ～ 0·5 to ～ 0·8 days. These correlations between exposure and zonation are suggested to be causal. In the algal mat and eelgrass zones microtopography of biogenic origin, only a few centimetres high, creates lateral heterogeneity within the zonal biofacies. In the upper sand wave zone, very low amplitude (a～ 0·1 m) symmetrical sand waves (λ～ 30 m) of probable storm-wave origin have a similar effect. In the lower sand wave zone, sand waves (a～ 0·5 m, λ～ 60 m) are formed by tidal currents or wave action and physical sedimentary structures dominate over biogenic ones. The densities of the following macrofaunal organisms which produce distinctive biogenic sedimentary structures were determined on two surveyed transects: Callianassa californiensis and Upogebia pugettensis, both thalassinidean shrimps; three polychaete worms, Abarenicola sp., Spio sp. and Clymenella sp.; the bivalve Mya arenaria and the gastropods Batillaria attramentaria and Nassarius mendicus. Callianassa excavate unlined temporary feeding burrows, whereas Upogebia build mud-lined permanent dwelling burrows. Upogebia are restricted to below mean sea-level where continuous exposure is < 0·5 days, whereas Callianassa extend up to a level, just below mean higher high water, where maximum continuous exposure rises abruptly from 4 to 9 days. This difference in range is probably due to the latter's greater anoxia tolerance—a necessary adaptation for life in an unlined feeding burrow.  相似文献   

18.
《Sedimentology》2018,65(6):1859-1874
Ripples are prevalent in aeolian landscapes. Many researchers have focused on the shape and formation of sand ripples, but few have studied the differences in the particle size of sand on crests and in troughs along bed, especially the variations caused by changes in friction velocity and the wind‐blowing duration. A particle size of 158 μm (d ) was used to create aeolian ripples in a wind tunnel under four friction velocities (u *) with different wind duration times (t ). Samples were collected from the surfaces of ripple crests and troughs, respectively, at seven sites, and particle sizes were measured using a Malvern Mastersizer 2000. The main results were: (i) The particle size distributions of sand in troughs are unimodal with slight variations of particle size parameters, including mean particle size, standard deviation, skewness and kurtosis, etc., under different conditions, while these particle size parameters of sand on crests change with friction velocity and deflation time. Moreover, some of the particle distribution curves for the sand on crests do not follow typical unimodal curves. (ii) With increasing friction velocity or deflation duration, the sand on the crests shows a coarsening process relative to those on the bed surface. The particle size of sand on crests at a 1 m bed increases linearly with friction velocity (d  =  344·27 + 34·54 u *) at a given wind‐blowing duration. The particle sizes of sand on crests at 1 m, 2 m and 4 m beds increase with a power‐law relationship (d  = a + t b, where a and b are fitting parameters) with deflation time at a given friction velocity. (iii) The probability cumulative curves of sand showed a three‐section pattern in troughs and on most of the crests but a four‐section pattern at crest locations due to increased influence by friction velocity and deflation time. The proportions of the sediment moved by suspension, saltation and creep in the three‐section pattern were within the ranges of 0·2% to 2·0%, 97·0% to 98·9%, and 0·8% to 3·0%, respectively. For the four‐section pattern, suspension accounted for 0·3% and 3·0%, and the proportion of creep increased with friction velocity and deflation time, while saltation decreased accordingly. Although these results require additional validation, they help to advance current understanding of the grain‐size characteristics of aeolian ripples.  相似文献   

19.
通过在九寨沟县聚宝山不同位置处布设微震监测仪器,采集到了九寨沟MS7.0级地震后几次典型的余震监测数据。对地震动监测剖面上1#（1414 m）和2#（1551 m）监测点的余震加速度响应数据进行系统的研究,表明:（1）孤立突出山体的地形放大效应显著,各监测点的水平向加速度幅值一般要大于竖直向;（2）在地震过程中,聚宝山近SN走向的山脊沿水平东西方向震动更为猛烈,即沿东西两侧发生猛烈"甩动",形成沿山脊走向发育的地震裂缝。对余震监测数据的研究证实了斜坡地震动方向效应的存在,聚宝山山顶处的2#监测点水平东西向峰值加速度放大效应明显强于其他方向,地震波能量在水平东西向上得到显著放大,因而坡顶处建筑物也更容易沿该方向发生破坏,证明了局部地形对斜坡地震动力响应具有控制效应;（3）2#监测点竖直向主频值主要为6~12 Hz,水平东西向主频值主要为5~8 Hz,水平南北向主频值主要为5~10 Hz,其水平东西向主频率值主要为低频成分;相较于1#监测点,2#监测点各向的主频值发生明显衰减,即随着高程的增加,地震动主频值呈现出减小趋势,在斜坡上部地震波以中低频为主。通过进一步地计算分析得出,九寨沟地震诱发单薄山脊、条形山体、多面临空山体等地形放大效应与地震波半波长密切相关,斜坡在局部地形尺寸与地震波丰富的波长成分的耦合作用下,地形放大效应显著,山体震害发育。  相似文献   

20.
The present study aims to improve current understanding of the sedimentation of subtidal point bars, analyzing interaction between tidal currents and waves in shaping a submerged meander bend of the microtidal Venice Lagoon (Italy), and it is based on coupling of sedimentological studies, geophysical analyses and numerical modelling. The Venice Lagoon is characterized by an average depth of about 1·5 m over subtidal platforms and a mean tidal range of about 1·0 m. The morphodynamic evolution of the lagoon is strongly affected by intense seasonal windstorms, which promote the formation of wind waves triggering sediment resuspension and bottom erosion. The study channel is 70 to 100 m wide, it has a radius of curvature of about 260 m and cuts through a permanently submerged subtidal platform. Water depth ranges from 1·0 to 5·0 m below mean sea level on the subtidal platform and channel thalweg, respectively. Different from classical architectural models, the study point‐bar beds do not show sigmoidal geometries, but consist of horizontally‐bedded deposits abruptly overlying clinostratified beds. Sedimentation in the study bar is hypothesized to stem from the interaction between the in‐channel secondary helical flow, as for most meander bends, and wave winnowing of the subaqueous overbank areas. Laterally accreting point‐bar deposits point out that the curvature‐induced helical flow redistributed sediment from the channel thalweg to the bar top and contributed to the development of the ‘classical’ fining‐upward grain size trend. The marked truncation surface, separating clinostratified bar deposits from overlying horizontally‐bedded platform sediments is interpreted here as due to bar top wave‐winnowing, which also possibly promoted bank collapses. In the proposed model, sediments remobilized from bar top and subaqueous overbank areas were transported into the channel, forming peculiar ‘apron‐like’ accumulations, where sand accumulated through avalanching processes and mud settled down from suspension.  相似文献   

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